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Default Anyone used one of these?

http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
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Default Anyone used one of these?

The Medway Handyman wrote:

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


Hi Dave. It certainly looks simple enough to work, unlike some other
Ideal-Home-Exhibition-type "shortcut" gimmicky devices. I loved the method
of adjusting the nozzle - bend it with pliers!

Bert

PS: Haven't seen you over on the Other Place lately...


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Default Anyone used one of these?

The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


Not a new idea, there must be some experience of them?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Durgun-Pro-M.../dp/B002EWCU1E

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pro-Point-Mo.../dp/B002QIBABW

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Roughneck-32.../dp/B003CT4D22

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001DZI3WI

www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000T9UEYO


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Default Anyone used one of these?

On Jun 7, 9:26*pm, The Medway Handyman
wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


I think http://www.channel4.com/programmes/g...signs/episode-
guide/series-5/episode-22 involves use of a similar tool.

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Default Anyone used one of these?

On Tue, 7 Jun 2011 23:26:58 +0100, Robin wrote:

Without it I was bloody useless at pointing. With it I am bloody useless
at pointing but a lot faster and more confident of getting the muck
fully to the back of the joint.


Do you have brick jointer or
similar?

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...+Jointer+13mm/
d10/sd2816/p58432

Makes it far easier to get the muck right into the joint. The width
of the jointer needs to be the same, or a tad smaller, that the joint
width. I improvised with a bit of bent oval section steel strip,
approx 1/2" wide and 1/8" thick so nice an rigid. Works like a dream
compared to trying to use something that won't go into the joint.
Just put the muck on a rectangular trowel offer edge to bottom of
joint and slide muck off trowel into joint pushing it right to the
back with the jointer. Bear in mind I was also pointing rough stone
so joints varied from 1" to virtually nothing and from 1/2" to
several inches deep.

On Roger's point about the mix, in my limited (and probably useless)
experience you do need to make the muck really light and fluffy.


That's the thought that went through my mind when I saw the tool. The
mix would have to be really soft to squidge through the nozzle
without having to apply loads of effort to the plunger. So soft that
it would probably slump out of the joint. Off a trowel with jointer
you can use a nice stiff mix that stays where you put it...

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Dave.





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Default Anyone used one of these?

On Jun 7, 9:26*pm, The Medway Handyman
wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)

--
Dave - The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk


They do work very well. I've used it for pointing blockwork on an
extension, and around paving slabs. You need to use a plasticiser to
allow it to flow nicely, and spend a little bit of time getting used
to it, but once you've got the knack, it's very easy.

dan.
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Default Anyone used one of these?

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman
saying something like:

http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged
enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle
administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants.

Wtf is a putlog?
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Default Anyone used one of these?

Do you have brick jointer or
similar?

Aye - but it'd not be my tool of choice for pushing muck as it's
rounded. In any event, my learning difficulty is with making the muck
stand proud of the joint without getting muck all over the face of the
brick. So I usually end up with a brushed "flush" finish which looks
pretty poor on old bricks with meandering and chipped edges.

That's the thought that went through my mind when I saw the tool. The
mix would have to be really soft to squidge through the nozzle
without having to apply loads of effort to the plunger. So soft that
it would probably slump out of the joint. Off a trowel with jointer
you can use a nice stiff mix that stays where you put it...


I've not had that problem. Bear in mind this tool has a large nozzle -
much larger than others I have seen - so "light and fluffy" does not
mean "runny as **** water". I've not tried to measure the hardness of
the result but it resists my thumbnail so I reckon it'll see me out

--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com


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Default Anyone used one of these?

In article ,
Grimly Curmudgeon writes:
We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman
saying something like:

http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged
enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle
administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants.


No one on a building site would be caught dead with one.
If you get the opportunity, get a brickie to show you how
to do pointing. It isn't difficult, but like most of the
wet trades, being shown is worth thousands of words of
explaining.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Default Anyone used one of these?

The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


The gun (similar to a normal silicone gun) is a better applicator.

The mix needs to be light, as in more plasticiser than water, otherwise you
end up with a cartridge full of cementy water.

Oh and the last bit in each cartridge needs to be got rid of as it's usually
devoid of any moisture and won't go through the nozzle if re-applied.

Once the mortar is in the joint, it has to be left to dry out somewhat
before using any kind of smoothing tool, this can take up to 2 hours
depending on the weather.




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Default Anyone used one of these?

On Jun 8, 2:12*pm, (Andrew Gabriel) wrote:
In article ,
* * * * Grimly Curmudgeon writes:

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember The Medway Handyman
saying something like:


http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html


Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


The video is convincing enough, and I assume that it's simple and rugged
enough to withstand conditions on a building site and the gentle
administrations of thousands of brickies and their assistants.


No one on a building site would be caught dead with one.
If you get the opportunity, get a brickie to show you how
to do pointing. It isn't difficult, but like most of the
wet trades, being shown is worth thousands of words of
explaining.


A bit like the difference between those who can apply silicone around
a bath, etc., and those who have to resort to Fugenboys.

MBQ

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On 07/06/2011 21:26, The Medway Handyman wrote:
http://pointmaster.co.uk/index.html

Seems like the answer to a maidens prayer - if it works :-)


Looks like the right shape but where does the maiden put the batteries? ;-)

--
Howard Neil
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In message , Grimly
Curmudgeon writes

Wtf is a putlog?


Thank you. Saves me asking :-)
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Graeme
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Default Anyone used one of these?

On Jun 8, 1:53*pm, Owain wrote:
On Jun 8, 1:15*pm, Grimly Curmudgeon *wrote:

Wtf is a putlog?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putlog_hole


To be pedantic, that describes what a putlog *hole* is.

A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that
ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will
leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the
scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of
scaffolding.

Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job,
someone has to fill in all the putlog holes.
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Default Anyone used one of these?

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember Martin Bonner
saying something like:

A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that
ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will
leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the
scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of
scaffolding.

Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job,
someone has to fill in all the putlog holes.


Most informative. Thanks.


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Default Anyone used one of these?

In article ,
Martin Bonner writes:
On Jun 8, 1:53*pm, Owain wrote:
On Jun 8, 1:15*pm, Grimly Curmudgeon *wrote:

Wtf is a putlog?


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Putlog_hole

To be pedantic, that describes what a putlog *hole* is.
A putlog is the short piece of scaffold pipe with a flattened end that
ties the scaffolding into the newly built wall. The brickie will
leave the occasional joint unpointed as a putlog hole, and the
scaffolder can stick a putlog in it when he puts up the next lift of
scaffolding.
Obviously, when the scaffolding comes down at the end of the job,
someone has to fill in all the putlog holes.


and it's often obvious, because whilst the bulk of the pointing will
have been experly done by a brickie, the putlog holes are often filled
by jobber or scaffolder.

--
Andrew Gabriel
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