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GMM GMM is offline
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Default Replacing a ceiling

Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.

So...What's the best thing to do? Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?

Any suggestions welcome!
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Default Replacing a ceiling

GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.

So...What's the best thing to do? Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?

Any suggestions welcome!


I have no comment to make about the plasterboard, however if you have any
electric cables in the roof space then have a look at
http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...lation_Methods
to make sure the insulaton will not affect their performance.

Cheers

--
Adam


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Default Replacing a ceiling

On Jan 22, 6:37*pm, GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. *Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: *It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. *In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. *Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.

So...What's the best thing to do? *Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? *The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?

Any suggestions welcome!


The cheapest thing to use is PVA watered down if too thyick. You will
need to put your plasterboeard on a flat surface, well supported, to
let it dry out so it doesn't bend. However you could staple some thin
polythene to the cieling before putting your plasterboard up too. More
effective I would have thought.
A bit of ventilation above the insulation would be good.
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Default Replacing a ceiling

On Jan 22, 6:37*pm, GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. *Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: *It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. *In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. *Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.

So...What's the best thing to do? *Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? *The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?

Any suggestions welcome!


I think any of the above sound doable. PVA glues both ali and paper. I
have also used square edge and only filled it before, and got a
satisfactory result, the main downside is that you cant then use
reinforcing mesh tape across the gap, so cracks are more likely to
occur. Such cracks are easily fixed with a finger and a little filler.

Polythene is an inferior sub for ali foil. It doesnt last well, and
although its waterproof it isnt vapour proof, just vapour resistant to
a fair extent.

With a dead man and small 9mm boards you should have little problem.


NT
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Default Replacing a ceiling

Tabby wrote:
On Jan 22, 6:37 pm, GMM wrote:


So...What's the best thing to do? Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best
way of sticking foil to plasterboard?


With a dead man and small 9mm boards you should have little problem.


The traditional method is under some concrete in the basement.

--
Bartc




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Default Replacing a ceiling

Tabby wrote:
On Jan 22, 6:37 pm, GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.

So...What's the best thing to do? Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?

Any suggestions welcome!


I think any of the above sound doable. PVA glues both ali and paper. I
have also used square edge and only filled it before, and got a
satisfactory result, the main downside is that you cant then use
reinforcing mesh tape across the gap, so cracks are more likely to
occur. Such cracks are easily fixed with a finger and a little filler.

Polythene is an inferior sub for ali foil. It doesnt last well, and
although its waterproof it isnt vapour proof, just vapour resistant to
a fair extent.


Is that why the milk leaks out of all my polythene bottles then?



With a dead man and small 9mm boards you should have little problem.


NT

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Default Replacing a ceiling

On Jan 23, 2:13*pm, "Phil L" wrote:
GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split in
it. *Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash at the
ceiling myself: *It's only about 2 metres each way, so what could
possibly go wrong? (!)


I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. *In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. *Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.


So...What's the best thing to do? *Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? *The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best way
of sticking foil to plasterboard?


Any suggestions welcome!


My suggestion is to just use normal plasterboard and skim - you aren't going
to get it anything like good enough to just paint unless you have been
plating ceilings for years, so whatever you use will require plastering.
Failing that you can leave it looking like an absolute mess


If you can fill ok, you should be fine.
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Default Replacing a ceiling

On Jan 23, 4:44*pm, "Phil L" wrote:
Tabby wrote:
On Jan 23, 2:13 pm, "Phil L" wrote:
GMM wrote:
Following a flat roof leak, I have a soggy ceiling with a big split
in it. Now that the roof is being fixed, I'm going to have a bash
at the ceiling myself: It's only about 2 metres each way, so what
could possibly go wrong? (!)


I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.


So...What's the best thing to do? Use foil backed square edge, which
will either need skimming or a bit of luck to get a good finish, or
use tapered edge and stick some foil on the back? The latter sounds
attractive but I might be missing something - like what's the best
way of sticking foil to plasterboard?


Any suggestions welcome!


My suggestion is to just use normal plasterboard and skim - you
aren't going to get it anything like good enough to just paint
unless you have been plating ceilings for years, so whatever you use
will require plastering. Failing that you can leave it looking like
an absolute mess


If you can fill ok, you should be fine.


And also if the cieling is perfectly square.


its not hard to cut boards to fit before offering them up. Just
measure the space properly, pencil it on the board and cut with a
knife. That always needs doing.

And you can cut boards straight


eithe use a ruler, or mark the straight edge with a bit of timber &
cut freehand

and not mash any of the sides as they are
being put up.


look where youre going, dont get careless. Damage can be filled
anyway.

And you don't miss with any of the screws.


Doesnt matter, filler covers all.

Yep, should be fine ;-p


its not hard.


NT
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Default Replacing a ceiling

"GMM" wrote in message
...

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.


why use foil to 'control' (condense?) vapour?

kitchens are all about ventilation

surely you'll be creating a damp problem

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/


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Default Replacing a ceiling

On 24 Jan, 19:48, "Gill Smith" wrote:
"GMM" wrote in message

...

I'm going to tear it down tomorrow and leave it for a week for
everything to dry properly. *In replacing, I want to take the
opportunity to put some insulation in there. *Now, I understand that
it's best to use foil-backed plasterboard to control vapour but I
can't find plasterboard with both a foil back and a tapered edge.


why use foil to 'control' (condense?) vapour?

kitchens are all about ventilation

surely you'll be creating a damp problem

--http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/


You're not condensing the vapour. You're preventing it penetrating
into a colder space, and condensing there. Ventilation from the
kitchen should be to the outside, by means of windows or an extractor,
not into a cold roof space, where it will promote rot.

That's why ;-)

Cheers
Richard


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Default Replacing a ceiling

On Jan 25, 12:04 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:

You're not condensing the vapour. You're preventing it penetrating
into a colder space, and condensing there. Ventilation from the
kitchen should be to the outside, by means of windows or an extractor,
not into a cold roof space, where it will promote rot.

That's why ;-)


thanks for the info

I too have a kitchen ceiling to repair

--
http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/


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Default Replacing a ceiling

On 25 Jan, 19:43, "Gill Smith" wrote:
On Jan 25, 12:04 pm, geraldthehamster wrote:

You're not condensing the vapour. You're preventing it penetrating
into a colder space, and condensing there. Ventilation from the
kitchen should be to the outside, by means of windows or an extractor,
not into a cold roof space, where it will promote rot.


That's why ;-)


thanks for the info

I too have a kitchen ceiling to repair

--http://www.gillsmith999.plus.com/


Don't worry about a vapour barrier unless you have a cold roof space
above it (as opposed to another floor of your house).

Cheers
Richard
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