[Robin]

I need to re-point some lead flashing with Lead Mate as there's movement
which has cracked the mortar. Its a wide joint (old, cheap Victorian
house) - 25mm plus. The makers recommend the depth of Lead Mate should
be only half the width. But raking out the old pointing leaves a depth
of 25mm or more. What can I pack this with to make the joint shallower
before using the Lead mate pl?

--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com

[Martin Bonner]

On Nov 10, 1:11*pm, "Robin" wrote:
I need to re-point some lead flashing with Lead Mate as there's movement
which has cracked the mortar. *Its a wide joint (old, cheap Victorian
house) - 25mm plus. The makers recommend *the depth of Lead Mate should
be only half the width. *But raking out the old pointing leaves a depth
of 25mm or more. *What can I pack this with to make the joint shallower
before using the Lead mate please?

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the Lead Mate, and just use lime
mortar for all the re-pointing. If you have some to hand, you could
use that.

How long is the flashing? I'd be a *bit* concerned about the
structural integrity of the wall with a long deep slice raked out of
it. Filling the rake with flexible sealant doesn't strike me as
providing much strength, so I would want some sort of mortar. (and I'm
a great believer in not using cement mortar on lime-mortared walls).

[Robin]

Martin Bonner wrote:
On Nov 10, 1:11 pm, "Robin" wrote:
I need to re-point some lead flashing with Lead Mate as there's
movement which has cracked the mortar. Its a wide joint (old, cheap
Victorian house) - 25mm plus. The makers recommend the depth of Lead
Mate should be only half the width. But raking out the old pointing
leaves a depth of 25mm or more. What can I pack this with to make
the joint shallower before using the Lead mate please?

Personally, I wouldn't bother with the Lead Mate, and just use lime
mortar for all the re-pointing. If you have some to hand, you could
use that.

How long is the flashing? I'd be a *bit* concerned about the
structural integrity of the wall with a long deep slice raked out of
it. Filling the rake with flexible sealant doesn't strike me as
providing much strength, so I would want some sort of mortar. (and I'm
a great believer in not using cement mortar on lime-mortared walls).

It's the parapet wall above the join between the two sides of the rear
extension: 7m long* by 3 courses plus capping stone high (except around
the chimney stack which has been reduced to 7 courses plus flaunching).

I take the point about lime mortar but I doubt that'd have enough
flexibility to cope with the seasonal movement we are getting - quite
possibly adding to the inevitable differential thermal movement.
(There's also longer term movement - ie subsidence - but that's another
and of course bigger problem.)

*not 7m of continuous lead of course: that was done in sections of less
than 1500mm
--
Robin
PM may be sent to rbw0{at}hotmail{dot}com