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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

I've got an intermittent problem with a Honeywell V4043 motorised
valve. The grey wire into the unit is always live but the orange wire
never gets live when the timer unit switches on. Net result is that
the heating zone doesn't work unless on manual.

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.

Does anybody know whether replacement switches can be sourced?

Or is my diagnosis potentially wrong?
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 5 Oct,
Dicko1 wrote:

I've got an intermittent problem with a Honeywell V4043 motorised
valve. The grey wire into the unit is always live but the orange wire
never gets live when the timer unit switches on. Net result is that
the heating zone doesn't work unless on manual.

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.

Does anybody know whether replacement switches can be sourced?


I often use Maplin, not the cheapest but handy for distress purchase.
Otherwise Ebay.


Or is my diagnosis potentially wrong?


I've had mucho trouble wit h 3 port valves. nearly always micro swtches.
However (touch nearest timber) 2 pot ones seem ok.

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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On Tue, 5 Oct 2010 15:13:26 -0700 (PDT), Dicko1 wrote:

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.


The microswitch is a bog standard Vsingle digit, and half decent
electronics supplier will have 'em. How ever it may not have failed.
The motor might not be opening the valve enough to operate the
switch. Take off the cover and see how far the mechanisium operates.
IIRC you can see the lever and button for the microswitch easily. It
maybe gunge in the wet side of the valve or lack of lubrication that
is presenting to much resistance for the motor. Take the motor head
off, excercise the wet side valve acutator and clean/lubricate the
mechanisium.

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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 5 Oct, 23:13, Dicko1 wrote:
I've got an intermittent problem with a Honeywell V4043 motorised
valve. The grey wire into the unit is always live but the orange wire
never gets live when the timer unit switches on. Net result is that
the heating zone doesn't work unless on manual.

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.

Does anybody know whether replacement switches can be sourced?

Or is my diagnosis potentially wrong?


Does the valve motor operate when the timer switches on? There could
be a motor failure, a thermostat failure or simply a break in the
connecting wiring somewhere along the route.
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Tue, 5 Oct 2010 15:13:26 -0700 (PDT), Dicko1 wrote:

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.


The microswitch is a bog standard Vsingle digit, and half decent
electronics supplier will have 'em. How ever it may not have failed.
The motor might not be opening the valve enough to operate the
switch. Take off the cover and see how far the mechanisium operates.
IIRC you can see the lever and button for the microswitch easily. It
maybe gunge in the wet side of the valve or lack of lubrication that
is presenting to much resistance for the motor. Take the motor head
off, excercise the wet side valve acutator and clean/lubricate the
mechanisium.

It's a button actuated V3 microswitch they use but a butchered one, you
have to shorten the terminals on the standard item and solder leads onto
the stubs. The o/p will need to be a half decent solderer with a good
iron to avoid melting the plastic body in the process (if that turns out
to be the fault).
--
fred
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

Dicko1 wrote:
I've got an intermittent problem with a Honeywell V4043 motorised
valve. The grey wire into the unit is always live but the orange wire
never gets live when the timer unit switches on. Net result is that
the heating zone doesn't work unless on manual.

On the basis of the above, I'm assuming that the internal switch has
gone rather than there being any problem with the synchro motor.

Does anybody know whether replacement switches can be sourced?

Or is my diagnosis potentially wrong?


Well, the grey wire should be permanently live and the blue wire should
be permanently neutral.

The brown wire should go live when the thermostat and the timer are
calling for heat. This causes the motor to open the valve and let water
through. When the valve is fully open, the orange wire goes live and
starts the pump and the boiler.

The system is designed this way so that the boiler and pump will *not*
run if this is the *only* zone calling for heat and there is nowhere for
the water to circulate.

So, (considered in isolation from other zones which may call for heat
and then fire up the boiler and pump), your assertion that "the heating
zone doesn't work unless on manual" doesn't quite make sense. If this
zone is calling for heat, then it will get heat, provided the orange
wire from *another* zone is live.

http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/docs/Sundia...%20Edition.pdf

So, either the motor is not operating at all (or at least not fully
operating) and therefore the microswitch is not actuated; or the
microswitch is fsked; or the wiring is fsked.

HTH
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On Wed, 6 Oct 2010 11:57:58 +0100, fred wrote:

It's a button actuated V3 microswitch they use but a butchered one, you
have to shorten the terminals on the standard item and solder leads onto
the stubs.


Soldering I remember but not shortening the terminals when I replaced
one a while back but then a chuncky pair of snips sorts that so
quickly I may have forgotten. TBH I don't think the switch had failed
either just intermittent stickiness in the mechanics which a good
clean and relubrication sorted out at a later date.

--
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Dave.



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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

In article o.uk, Dave
Liquorice writes
On Wed, 6 Oct 2010 11:57:58 +0100, fred wrote:

It's a button actuated V3 microswitch they use but a butchered one, you
have to shorten the terminals on the standard item and solder leads onto
the stubs.


Soldering I remember but not shortening the terminals when I replaced
one a while back but then a chuncky pair of snips sorts that so
quickly I may have forgotten. TBH I don't think the switch had failed
either just intermittent stickiness in the mechanics which a good
clean and relubrication sorted out at a later date.

I couldn't remember exactly myself so whipped the top off one here and
the terminals are definitely shortened, it really is a tight fit. As you
say, hopefully not necessary.
--
fred
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 07:49:01 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

The microswitch is a bog standard Vsingle digit, and half decent
electronics supplier will have 'em. How ever it may not have failed.
The motor might not be opening the valve enough to operate the
switch.


Sorry to join in so late.

I know you are all talking about a different make but when I changed
my gravity fed system to a fully pumped one, I bought Horstman 2 port
valves from a well know seller of screws and fixings. I used 2 port
valves rather than 3 port valves because the latter seemed to be
criticised here.

18 months later, I had very similar problems to the OP: the boiler and
pump were not receiving any power from the micro switch. Like the OP,
I assumed the switch was broken. I never thought of stripping it to
see (I don't know how easy the Horstman ones are to open).

Perhaps you were right, perhaps it was not the switch but the
mechanism not moving the switch far enough. I can't be sure now, but I
think the switch did actuate when the valve was set to manual
override.

I bought new valves and I think one may have failed 6 months later!

I'll see how things progress but can face draining it down to fit new
valves as I'm sure that different makes of valve are different
lengths, so no doubt it won't be as easy as removing the Horstman ones
and dropping new ones in their place.

In summary, 2 port valves can fail the same way too.
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 11/10/2010 05:07, Fred wrote:
On Wed, 06 Oct 2010 07:49:01 +0100 (BST), "Dave Liquorice"
wrote:

The microswitch is a bog standard Vsingle digit, and half decent
electronics supplier will have 'em. How ever it may not have failed.
The motor might not be opening the valve enough to operate the
switch.


Sorry to join in so late.

I know you are all talking about a different make but when I changed
my gravity fed system to a fully pumped one, I bought Horstman 2 port
valves from a well know seller of screws and fixings. I used 2 port
valves rather than 3 port valves because the latter seemed to be
criticised here.

18 months later, I had very similar problems to the OP: the boiler and
pump were not receiving any power from the micro switch. Like the OP,
I assumed the switch was broken. I never thought of stripping it to
see (I don't know how easy the Horstman ones are to open).

Perhaps you were right, perhaps it was not the switch but the
mechanism not moving the switch far enough. I can't be sure now, but I
think the switch did actuate when the valve was set to manual
override.

I bought new valves and I think one may have failed 6 months later!

I'll see how things progress but can face draining it down to fit new
valves as I'm sure that different makes of valve are different
lengths, so no doubt it won't be as easy as removing the Horstman ones
and dropping new ones in their place.

In summary, 2 port valves can fail the same way too.


It's a bit drastic, changing the whole valve, if you just have a problem
with the actuator.

The wet part usually outlives the actuator. If it's actually leaking,
you need to replace it, but if it's just gone a bit stiff, you can
usually free it up by turning the shaft back and forth a few times with
pliers.

If the actuator motor or micro-switch fails, you can just replace the
faulty component - or the whole actuator if you prefer. Neither requires
draining the system.

If you're really intent on replacing the wet bit frequently, stick a
full-bore ball valve either side of it so that you can isolate it
without draining the system!
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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 11 Oct,
Fred wrote:

I'll see how things progress but can face draining it down to fit new
valves as I'm sure that different makes of valve are different
lengths, so no doubt it won't be as easy as removing the Horstman ones
and dropping new ones in their place.


Most I've come across are the same physical size. Unfortunately the threads
on the compression fittings seem usually to be manufacturer's specials,
necessitating replacing the olives and nuts. An olive puller simplifies this
in confined spaces, else judicious use of a junior hacksaw.

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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 12:54:06 +0100, wrote:

Most I've come across are the same physical size. Unfortunately the
threads on the compression fittings seem usually to be manufacturer's
specials, necessitating replacing the olives and nuts. An olive puller
simplifies this in confined spaces, else judicious use of a junior
hacksaw.


Or one of
these:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...s/Monument+Oli
ve+Removing+Tool+22mm/d10/sd210/p93155

http://tinyurl.com/2vnu928

Mind you at £25 a pop and needing one for 15 and 22mm a junior
hacksaw has a lot going for it. Just be very careful not to knick the
pipe or getting a seal again may well be difficult. How well do
pullers work on olives when the joint has been murdered up and the
pipe distorted?

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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 11 Oct,
"Dave Liquorice" wrote:

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 12:54:06 +0100, wrote:

Most I've come across are the same physical size. Unfortunately the
threads on the compression fittings seem usually to be manufacturer's
specials, necessitating replacing the olives and nuts. An olive puller
simplifies this in confined spaces, else judicious use of a junior
hacksaw.


Or one of
these:

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand...s/Monument+Oli
ve+Removing+Tool+22mm/d10/sd210/p93155

http://tinyurl.com/2vnu928

Mind you at £25 a pop and needing one for 15 and 22mm a junior
hacksaw has a lot going for it.


Or this one which does both and is a little cheaper.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Olive+Puller/d10/sd210/p32737

Just be very careful not to knick the pipe or getting a seal again may well
be difficult. How well do pullers work on olives when the joint has been
murdered up and the pipe distorted?


Depends how nackered the pipe is. Now worth trying if the pipe won't take a
new olive without difficulty.


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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On 11 Oct,
wrote:

Or this one which does both and is a little cheaper.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Hand+Tools/Plumbers+Tools/Olive+Puller/d10/sd210/p32737


Which I've just remembered just does standard threaded fittings (unless you
can get the nut off and substitute a standard one from the other end of the
pipe.

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Default Replacement Switches for V4043 motorised valves

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 12:00:27 +0100, Roger Mills
wrote:

If the actuator motor or micro-switch fails, you can just replace the
faulty component - or the whole actuator if you prefer. Neither requires
draining the system.

If you're really intent on replacing the wet bit frequently, stick a
full-bore ball valve either side of it so that you can isolate it
without draining the system!


Sorry, I think you misunderstood. I was only planning on draining and
replacing the valves once: to change to a more reliable brand!

When the Horstmann actuators failed, I didn't realise I could get
inside them and replace the microswitches but Screwfix sent me
complete replacements anyway, so I took the actuators off the valves
they sent, and like you said, just swapped the dry halves over.
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