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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
There are various insulation "knock in" plastic fixings whereby you
knock a peg into a tube. Are they strong enough to go thro 9.5mm PB & 40mm Celotex? Obviously the PB would require a 5-6mm skim, just wondered if it would work re avoiding wood battens on solid brick walls and all the mucking about that involves. |
#2
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
On 21 Aug, 23:16, "js.b1" wrote:
There are various insulation "knock in" plastic fixings whereby you knock a peg into a tube. Are they strong enough to go thro 9.5mm PB & 40mm Celotex? Obviously the PB would require a 5-6mm skim, just wondered if it would work re avoiding wood battens on solid brick walls and all the mucking about that involves. dot and dab the PIR PBoards, add a couple of frame fixers at head height (for fire safety), skim with usual 2mm - voila! worked for me & am still here with no probs 4.5yrs later ;) Jim K |
#3
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
Seems to be a lot of hammer-in fasteners on the market.
They are attractive because of drill - insert - whack, rather than messing about with wooden battens. That said a wooden batten at the bottom seems a good idea to act as a shear-brace. Good point about fire, Rawlplug do polypropylene (Screwfix) and Fischer do nylon & metal, something metal is required for fire because if the plaster falls off PIR foam is pretty nasty. That said I find it an odd argument for domestic because you are dead if not out in a few minutes anyway, long before plastic plasterboard fixings have failed. Re dot-n-dab, was that onto the foil and onto solid wall? Interesting and quick "splodge" solution. I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should solve that icy box-room solid wall. |
#4
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
On 22 Aug, 15:09, "js.b1" wrote:
Seems to be a lot of hammer-in fasteners on the market. They are attractive because of drill - insert - whack, rather than messing about with wooden battens. That said a wooden batten at the bottom seems a good idea to act as a shear-brace. Good point about fire, Rawlplug do polypropylene (Screwfix) and Fischer do nylon & metal, something metal is required for fire because if the plaster falls off PIR foam is pretty nasty. That said I find it an odd argument for domestic because you are dead if not out in a few minutes anyway, long before plastic plasterboard fixings have failed. think the idea is that *if* the fire gets behind the pboard and into the PIR foam and so loosens the boards attachment to the wall by adhesive dabs- those fixings will hold it up that bit longer whilst you/a fireman get out /past Re dot-n-dab, was that onto the foil and onto solid wall? Interesting and quick "splodge" solution. yup straight foam (latterly paper faced xtratherm) backed insulated plasterboard onto solid walls, with frame fixers as mentioned. Quick, easyish easier with 2 ppl, also accomodated some degree of "out of vertical" /lumps and bumps with judicious use of extra pboard adhesive. I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should solve that icy box-room solid wall. I reckon very much yes.. the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need an air supply....;) Cheers Jim K |
#5
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
On Aug 22, 3:51*pm, Jim K wrote:
js.b1@ntlworld wrote: I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should solve that icy box-room solid wall. I reckon very much yes. It is 2 outside walls with a nearby T-junction which is in almost compass-perfect with the prevailing wind, so it gets a jet-blast of air... leaves... flying cats... waste paper... junk mail... postman :-) the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need an air supply....;) The good thing about internal insulation is the very fast warmup and perceived comfort. |
#6
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
On 22 Aug, 17:31, "js.b1" wrote:
On Aug 22, 3:51 pm, Jim K wrote: js.b1@ntlworld wrote: I think I will go with the hammer-in fixings, 40mm celotex should solve that icy box-room solid wall. I reckon very much yes. It is 2 outside walls with a nearby T-junction which is in almost compass-perfect with the prevailing wind, so it gets a jet-blast of air... leaves... flying cats... waste paper... junk mail... postman :-) the effect here was excellent and so as I am working my way around this ol' house I have done the same with various "newer" insualted pboards - just got to work on the draughts a bit but the stoves need an air supply....;) The good thing about internal insulation is the very fast warmup and perceived comfort. can you measure comfort any other way?? Jim K |
#7
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Insulation knock in plastic fixings (peg into tube)
On Aug 22, 8:14*pm, Jim K wrote:
can you measure comfort any other way?? Yes, lack of discomfort :-) Internal insulation means there is no delay to the room warming up; that is to say you are not having to heat the inner leaf of a cavity wall which even though it is insulated is slow to warm up from (say) a background temperature to a higher comfort temperature. So internal insulation is very useful for rooms which are only occasionally used and "on demand heated", such as utility, box-rooms, storage rooms and so on. Whereas external insulation is good for rooms continually occupied 24x7 where you want a high thermal mass to even out the daily cycle and high thermal mass to not suddenly go cold when an outside door is opened. Frankly I wish UK construction would go the way of those clay-stick- together-jumbo-blocks. Unfortunately they are actually pretty expensive, the saving is in labour which will never catch on with the UK construction industry (or politicians). |
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