[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

The roof is nearly done - i.e. at least half way through.
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...20all%20Sheds/
The roof woodwork is certainly solid - I can jump up and down on it with no
visible deflection of any of the beams.
Perhaps a little over engineered?

Now waiting for the wind to drop a little before putting up the metal
sheets - although rain is now forecast for tomorrow :-(

Cheers

Dave R

[Bob Eager]

SWMBO took one look and said: "That's not a shed - it's a bungalow!"

Very impressive...
--
Use the BIG mirror service in the UK:
http://www.mirrorservice.org

*lightning protection* - a w_tom conductor

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , David WE Roberts
writes
The roof is nearly done - i.e. at least half way through.
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ther%20of%20al
l%20Sheds/
The roof woodwork is certainly solid - I can jump up and down on it
with no visible deflection of any of the beams.
Perhaps a little over engineered?

Just a tad. The barn I am part way through cladding has 9"x3" timber
purlins spanning 15' bays at around 4' spacing. This supports 80mm
sandwich insulated steel sheet.

Now waiting for the wind to drop a little before putting up the metal
sheets - although rain is now forecast for tomorrow :-(

Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get two
goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
The roof is nearly done - i.e. at least half way through.
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...ther%20of%20al
l%20Sheds/
The roof woodwork is certainly solid - I can jump up and down on it with
no visible deflection of any of the beams.
Perhaps a little over engineered?

Just a tad. The barn I am part way through cladding has 9"x3" timber
purlins spanning 15' bays at around 4' spacing. This supports 80mm
sandwich insulated steel sheet.

Now waiting for the wind to drop a little before putting up the metal
sheets - although rain is now forecast for tomorrow :-(

Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The simplest
method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground, apply the
sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and get help to
lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get two goes so be
exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are noisy
in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic paint
before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between the metal
sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 26/05/2010 21:16, David WE Roberts wrote:
The roof is nearly done - i.e. at least half way through.
http://s817.photobucket.com/albums/z...20all%20Sheds/

Looking good!

The roof woodwork is certainly solid - I can jump up and down on it with
no visible deflection of any of the beams.
Perhaps a little over engineered?

What timber sizes did you go with in the end?

Now waiting for the wind to drop a little before putting up the metal
sheets - although rain is now forecast for tomorrow :-(

Sounds like fun! ;-)

Went with the 2" * 7" at 400mm spacing which IIRC you said was more than
adequate.
Because of the way the roof is fixed there are 2" *3" 'purlins' at right
angles to the joists and screwed to them.
The alternative was to run joists the length of the shed - about 7.6
metres - which is a long span and would require some kickass timber.
Engineering a slope would also have been more difficult.

Should I decide at a later date to re-enginer the roof I could have a
seriously big sun deck there :-)

Remebered overnight that I have to paint the wood to prevent the
preservative reacting with the roof sheeting.

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"John Rumm" wrote in message
o.uk...
On 27/05/2010 10:57, David WE Roberts wrote:

I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic
paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between
the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

Layer of gaffer tape along the top of the joists?

Too late - just finished painting it.
Looks even more like a pallet now (at least, like the old style ones which
they used to paint with black stuff to preserve them).

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get
two goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic
paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between
the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.

Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get two
goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic paint
before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between the metal
sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.

Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.

Plastisol sheets which cover 1m width with an overlap.
I got quotes from two suppliers for all the bits and neither mentioned
sealing strips along the overlap.
IIRC I did ask about the overlap and was told that it would seal.
I think I would be more worried about capilliary action than 'bounce' - but
obviously this is my first time using such a sheet.

The diagrams for the roofing profile on
http://www.slecladding.co.uk/plastisol.htm
show how the sheets overlap.

err......

just found

" ROOF PITCHES of 10 Degrees and below.

In the cases of roof pitches of 10 degrees and below. Before fixing, all
laps (both side and end) should be sealed by placing a bead of Butyl Sealant
(Like putty on a roll) between the two lapping sheets and the laps secured
with Seam Stitchers a 12 - 18" centres. (see below) This prevents wind
driven rain from being driven up the slope under the top sheet and
penetrating the building. This also applies to Corrosive Industrial
Locations and Coastal Locations where corrosive salt spray can be driven
between the sheets. In these conditions consider using a cut edge lacquer to
prevent rusting of the cut edge. This is not necessary under normal
conditions."

at the bottom of http://www.slecladding.co.uk/diyfix.htm so it does look as
if I should be using butyl sealant.
The 'seam stitchers' look like shorter versions of the fixing bolts.

Thanks Tim - just in time!

I now also have to decide if I am in a 'Coastal Location' (being in a sea
side town) and need to find some 'cut edge lacquer'.

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the
ground, apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper
protection and get help to lower the sheet vertically into
position. You don't get two goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic
paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between
the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.

Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.

Plastisol sheets which cover 1m width with an overlap.
I got quotes from two suppliers for all the bits and neither mentioned
sealing strips along the overlap.
IIRC I did ask about the overlap and was told that it would seal.
I think I would be more worried about capilliary action than 'bounce' -
but obviously this is my first time using such a sheet.

I struggled to buy butyl sealing strip locally and ordered from the
roofing supplier.

The other choice worth mentioning is *direction of lap*. I guess you
will know which is your prevailing wind. Start roofing from the
*downwind* end.

regards
--
Tim Lamb

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
. ..
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get
two goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic
paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between
the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.

Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.

Plastisol sheets which cover 1m width with an overlap.
I got quotes from two suppliers for all the bits and neither mentioned
sealing strips along the overlap.
IIRC I did ask about the overlap and was told that it would seal.
I think I would be more worried about capilliary action than 'bounce' -
but obviously this is my first time using such a sheet.

I struggled to buy butyl sealing strip locally and ordered from the
roofing supplier.

The other choice worth mentioning is *direction of lap*. I guess you will
know which is your prevailing wind. Start roofing from the *downwind* end.

Found a 3M product which seems to fit the bill.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...6EVs6E666666--

From their website I found

BDK Industrial Products
01473 659059
Levington Park
Levington, IP10 OJE
Fax: 01473 659104

Just down the road from me :-)
Assuming they sell retail - going to ring them.
Travis Perkin stock the seam stitchers.

Rain tomorrow.
Windy today and no second pair of hands.
Still, getting closer every day :-)

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
. ..
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get
two goes so be exact!

I may have mentioned before.... be aware that these roof sheets are
noisy in variable sunshine. Thumps and bangs from expansion.

No butyl sealant strips involved - just an overlap of the profile.
I have remembered that I have to paint the woodwork with bitumastic
paint before putting down the roof sheets to avoid a reaction between
the metal sheets and the chemical preservatives in the wood.

er... Remind me what roofing sheets you are using.

Rolled steel box section are not rain proof along the lap due to rain
*bounce* particularly on low pitch.

Plastisol sheets which cover 1m width with an overlap.
I got quotes from two suppliers for all the bits and neither mentioned
sealing strips along the overlap.
IIRC I did ask about the overlap and was told that it would seal.
I think I would be more worried about capilliary action than 'bounce' -
but obviously this is my first time using such a sheet.

I struggled to buy butyl sealing strip locally and ordered from the
roofing supplier.

Just talked to my local supplier and they have two variants 'on the shelf'.

12mm wide by 3mm thick
50mm (2") wide by 2mm thick

Did you use either of these sizes?
These are the ones they stock - others can be ordered 'in box quantities'
which does not sound economical.

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
. ..
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps.

Rang the roofing supplier to check what width to use and they said they
usually use something like
http://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/p...artridges.html
although they used to use an Arbo product which was like a roll of putty.

So more options but no definitive answer.
Off to measure up the profile.

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
...
In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
. ..
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the ground,
apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper protection and
get help to lower the sheet vertically into position. You don't get
two goes so be exact!
snip

Now considering the potential pitfalls of standing on the metal roof whilst
installing the sheets.
Do you use a 'crawling board' to spread the load?
The gap between purlins is about 800mm.

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , David WE Roberts
writes
I struggled to buy butyl sealing strip locally and ordered from the
roofing supplier.

The other choice worth mentioning is *direction of lap*. I guess you
will know which is your prevailing wind. Start roofing from the
*downwind* end.

Found a 3M product which seems to fit the bill.
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...jcFSLXTtoXf_l8
s6EVuQEcuZgVs6EVs6E666666--

Looks like the same stuff. I turned up a couple of roll ends... one says
HP500 and then NFRC Class A, the other... GCA . NFRC Class A. The tape
is around 6mmx4mm grey butyl rubber.

From their website I found

BDK Industrial Products
01473 659059
Levington Park
Levington, IP10 OJE
Fax: 01473 659104

Just down the road from me :-)
Assuming they sell retail - going to ring them.
Travis Perkin stock the seam stitchers.

Get the push on plastic covers those screws rust 70miles away from the
nearest sea.

Rain tomorrow.
Windy today and no second pair of hands.
Still, getting closer every day :-)

Good luck:-)


--
Tim Lamb

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .
In message , David WE Roberts
writes

"Tim Lamb" wrote in message
.. .
In message , David WE Roberts
writes
Don't forget the butyl sealant strip along the roof overlaps. The
simplest method I have found is to turn the sheet over on the
ground, apply the sealant strip to the lap, peel off the paper
protection and get help to lower the sheet vertically into
position. You don't get two goes so be exact!
snip

Now considering the potential pitfalls of standing on the metal roof
whilst installing the sheets.
Do you use a 'crawling board' to spread the load?
The gap between purlins is about 800mm.

I didn't but the composite sheets are very strong.

A pair of hands at either end should get them positioned. You can reach
across from inside to put in the fixing screws. Stitchers come
afterwards. I suppose a ladder laid along the sheets would be
reassuring.

regards

--
Tim Lamb

[Tim Lamb[_2_]]

In message , Tim Lamb
writes
Now considering the potential pitfalls of standing on the metal roof
whilst installing the sheets.
Do you use a 'crawling board' to spread the load?
The gap between purlins is about 800mm.

I didn't but the composite sheets are very strong.

A pair of hands at either end should get them positioned. You can reach
across from inside to put in the fixing screws. Stitchers come
afterwards. I suppose a ladder laid along the sheets would be reassuring.

I'm not sure if this will work but try

http://www.steadmans.co.uk/product/s...insbrochure.pd
f

regards

--
Tim Lamb