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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink

I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop. The
sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm at
between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve




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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink

Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop. The
sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm at
between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve




If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using
car body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.


Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body
filler will stop excessive flexure.
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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using car
body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body filler
will stop excessive flexure.


Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But I
don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was a
bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated from a
surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through, compared to
using silicone.

Steve



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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink

Steve wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that small
gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening the
clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra clips to
spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I contact Franke.
Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well and
truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using car
body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body filler
will stop excessive flexure.


Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But I
don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was a
bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated from a
surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through, compared to
using silicone.


You haven't seen what happens to a car repaired with body filler in a
bijou crashette, have you?

Usually tears the steel long before the filler separates..
Steve



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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink


"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a worktop.
The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps of up to 7mm
at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.

I can squeeze the gaps shut (with some force) by hand. So tightening
the clips would probably do a fair job; I might be able to get extra
clips to spread the load more evenly (there are plenty slots) if I
contact Franke. Any views on this?

I could try bending the sink into shape. But I guess this could well
and truly b****r it up. Or has anyone got any great tips on how to do
this?

Cheers

Steve


If you want a permanent job, simply weight the thing down after using
car body filler to bed it on, or if you are a wuss, silicone.

The clips will help, but you need a more even pressure, typically.

Also you my find bits of wood strategically glued on with car body
filler will stop excessive flexure.


Thanks for that. Being a bit of a wuss I'd prefer to use silicone! But
I don't see what the advantage of car body filler is anyway. Silicone's
natural elasticity would make the seal less likely to break if there was
a bit of movement. Filler is pretty rigid/brittle and if it separated
from a surface there's a much bigger chance of water getting through,
compared to using silicone.


You haven't seen what happens to a car repaired with body filler in a
bijou crashette, have you?

Usually tears the steel long before the filler separates..


Ahah. I didn't know car body filler was that strong. Will definetely
consider it.




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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink

Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a
worktop. The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps
of up to 7mm at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.


I've never seen even a cheap Wickes sink bowed by that much. Get it
replaced.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


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Default Fitting 'Distorted' Stainless Steel Sink


"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
Steve wrote:
I am trying to fit a new (Franke) stainless steel sink into a
worktop. The sink does not sit flat - it is bowed so there are gaps
of up to 7mm at between worktop and sink.

Various questions:

Is this typical or have I got a defective sink? I can imagine that
small gaps are common but mine seem excessive.


I've never seen even a cheap Wickes sink bowed by that much. Get it
replaced.

--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Thanks. I thought it was excessive.
Steve


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