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| UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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My wife's Mazda MX5 hard top had the door seals replaced a year ago.
They are meant to grip onto a steel rib. They didn't fit all that well when I did the job and now they are tending to drop off fairly frequently. Do I use ordinary silicone to glue them on or is there some specific silicone glue? Thanks Rob |
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#2
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robgraham wrote:
My wife's Mazda MX5 hard top had the door seals replaced a year ago. They are meant to grip onto a steel rib. They didn't fit all that well when I did the job and now they are tending to drop off fairly frequently. Do I use ordinary silicone to glue them on or is there some specific silicone glue? I would try an acrylic like decorators caulk/. Easy to remove if it dioesnt work and its less messy. Thanks Rob |
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#3
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
I would try an acrylic like decorators caulk/. Easy to remove if it dioesnt work and its less messy. And it's absolutely the wrong compound to use for this application. |
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#4
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robgraham wrote:
My wife's Mazda MX5 hard top had the door seals replaced a year ago. They are meant to grip onto a steel rib. They didn't fit all that well when I did the job and now they are tending to drop off fairly frequently. Do I use ordinary silicone to glue them on or is there some specific silicone glue? Something like this http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.js...LAID=266887903 -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
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#5
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Steve Firth wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote: I would try an acrylic like decorators caulk/. Easy to remove if it dioesnt work and its less messy. And it's absolutely the wrong compound to use for this application. Worked well for me. However, as we all know, you know so much about everything that your head is not big enough to contain your brain, which is why most of your thoughts dribble out of your arse. |
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#6
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The Natural Philosopher wrote:
Steve Firth wrote: The Natural Philosopher wrote: I would try an acrylic like decorators caulk/. Easy to remove if it dioesnt work and its less messy. And it's absolutely the wrong compound to use for this application. Worked well for me. Yes of course it did, and the moon is made of green cheese. There may be life forms out there thicker than you, but if there are, science hasn't discovered them yet. |
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#7
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We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember robgraham saying something like: Do I use ordinary silicone to glue them on or is there some specific silicone glue? For many automotive applications, Sikaflex tend to have the adhesive of choice. |
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#8
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Grimly Curmudgeon wrote:
For many automotive applications, Sikaflex tend to have the adhesive of choice. A good choice, Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive/sealant and will stand up well to the conditions encountered by a vehicle. Silicon sealant should also work well and has the advantage that it can be cleaned from bodywork with white spirit (or tar remover) without damaging paintwork. A polyurethane adhesive such as Gorilla glue should work but it foams and is IMO unsuitable for vehicle applications. Sikaflex doesn't foam and stays where it is put. Water-based domestic acrylic sealant is the choice of fools. |
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#9
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In article ,
Steve Firth wrote: Grimly Curmudgeon wrote: For many automotive applications, Sikaflex tend to have the adhesive of choice. A good choice, Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive/sealant and will stand up well to the conditions encountered by a vehicle. Silicon sealant should also work well and has the advantage that it can be cleaned from bodywork with white spirit (or tar remover) without damaging paintwork. A polyurethane adhesive such as Gorilla glue should work but it foams and is IMO unsuitable for vehicle applications. Sikaflex doesn't foam and stays where it is put. I'd found Evostick Serious excellent on a variety of materials around the car that others barf at. Think it is also a polyurethane glue - but easily available from your local shed. Water-based domestic acrylic sealant is the choice of fools. I'd agree there. Wouldn't even think of trying it. -- *I took an IQ test and the results were negative. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
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#10
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Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article , Steve Firth wrote: Grimly Curmudgeon wrote: For many automotive applications, Sikaflex tend to have the adhesive of choice. A good choice, Sikaflex is a polyurethane adhesive/sealant and will stand up well to the conditions encountered by a vehicle. Silicon sealant should also work well and has the advantage that it can be cleaned from bodywork with white spirit (or tar remover) without damaging paintwork. A polyurethane adhesive such as Gorilla glue should work but it foams and is IMO unsuitable for vehicle applications. Sikaflex doesn't foam and stays where it is put. I'd found Evostick Serious excellent on a variety of materials around the car that others barf at. Think it is also a polyurethane glue - but easily available from your local shed. Water-based domestic acrylic sealant is the choice of fools. I'd agree there. Wouldn't even think of trying it. If you want just enough adhesion to hold a rubber strip in place and the ability to not leave smears of impossible to remove glue everywhere else, its an ideal choice. What is needed is more mastic than glue in this case. Just enough to stop it all falling off. If you want serious adhesion a contact adhesive like evostkik works well. But you have no shuffling time. |
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