Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new garden
gate.

The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge on the
other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use plane
rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on the
frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence panel
paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE I put
the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....hed-door-5.jpg


https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or do it
all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame together, i don't see
any screws apart from those going into the main part of the door??

On Apr 21, 12:39*am, mo wrote:
Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new garden
gate.

The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge on the
other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use plane
rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on the
frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence panel
paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE I put
the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -http://www.secrets-of-shed-building.com/images/storage-shed-door-5.jpg

https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or do it
all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame together, i don't see
any screws apart from those going into the main part of the door??

I would use tongue and groove floor boarding to make the gate. I would
assemble the boards and then screw them to the Z frame. The tongue and
groove should be stiff enough to hold it together on the ground while
you do that. It would be very hard to do this with featheredge boards.

Jonathan

mo wrote:
Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new garden
gate.

The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge on the
other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use plane
rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on the
frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence panel
paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE I put
the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....hed-door-5.jpg


https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or do it
all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame together, i don't see
any screws apart from those going into the main part of the door??

I prefer a lightweight door with 2" x 1" slats, which gives you privacy,
but doesn't blow about in the wind or block the light.

mo wrote:
Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new
garden gate.

Assume you mean new garden shed, not gate?


The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge on
the other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use plane
rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

F/E is available treated to resist rot. I make a lot of garden gates out of
F/E. Ledges & braces can be 100 x 19 treated or 150mm gravel boards.


Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on the
frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence
panel paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE
I put the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....hed-door-5.jpg


https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or do
it all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame together, i
don't see any screws apart from those going into the main part of the
door??

Measure the width of the opening & deduct around 10mm for clearance. Cut 3
horizontal ledges this size & lay them out on a flat surface in the position
you want them.

Take 1 piece of F/E slightly longer than the finished height & screw it to
the ledges using a square to ensure all is at right angles, 2 screws in each
ledge.

Loose lay the rest of the F/E across the ledges & adjust until you have a
roughly even overlap. Now make a 'spacer' to this gap size. Use this to
keep the overlap even. Screw boards to ledges so the last board overlaps
the length of the ledges slightly.

Turn the whole lot over. Lay out 2 pieces in position for the braces, mark
where they meet the ledges, join the lines & cut the angle carefully. Screw
in from other side.

Trim top, bottom & edge to final size with circular saw.

HTH


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
...
mo wrote:
Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new
garden gate.

Assume you mean new garden shed, not gate?


The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge on
the other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use plane
rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

F/E is available treated to resist rot. I make a lot of garden gates out
of F/E. Ledges & braces can be 100 x 19 treated or 150mm gravel boards.


Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on the
frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence
panel paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE
I put the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....hed-door-5.jpg


https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or do
it all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame together, i
don't see any screws apart from those going into the main part of the
door??

Measure the width of the opening & deduct around 10mm for clearance. Cut
3 horizontal ledges this size & lay them out on a flat surface in the
position you want them.

Take 1 piece of F/E slightly longer than the finished height & screw it to
the ledges using a square to ensure all is at right angles, 2 screws in
each ledge.

Loose lay the rest of the F/E across the ledges & adjust until you have a
roughly even overlap. Now make a 'spacer' to this gap size. Use this to
keep the overlap even. Screw boards to ledges so the last board overlaps
the length of the ledges slightly.

Turn the whole lot over. Lay out 2 pieces in position for the braces,
mark where they meet the ledges, join the lines & cut the angle carefully.
Screw in from other side.

Trim top, bottom & edge to final size with circular saw.


One this no-one's mentioned is that the braces need to "point" the right
way, with the base near the hinge and the top on the latch side. For a
really quality job notch the ledge a little (say 10mm) where the brace will
meet it so the end of the brace sits in the notch.

Calvin Sambrook wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message ...
mo wrote:
Hi
I need to buy some materials to make a 'full size' door for my new
garden gate.

Assume you mean new garden shed, not gate?


The fixed parts of the gate are featheredge.

Now for the door I could make my Z frame and then have featheredge
on the other side to match the rest of the gate or I could just use
plane rectangular strips. Any reason to choose oen over the other?

F/E is available treated to resist rot. I make a lot of garden
gates out of F/E. Ledges & braces can be 100 x 19 treated or 150mm
gravel boards.

Obviously I want the door to be fairly light to put less strain on
the frame.

Which material is the best? I will be painting it brown with fence
panel paint stuff to match my fence panels.

Also, when I make my Z frame how do I get it to stay together BEFORE
I put the 'covering' on?

i.e if you look here, this is similar to what i might do -
http://www.secrets-of-shed-building....hed-door-5.jpg


https://www.nextdaydiy.com/doors-win...s-19805/gates-
19819/external-knotty-ledged-braced-4554-1223_zoom.jpg

Would you make the frame first then put the rest of the door on or
do it all as you go? Is it glue initally holding the frame
together, i don't see any screws apart from those going into the
main part of the door??

Measure the width of the opening & deduct around 10mm for clearance.
Cut 3 horizontal ledges this size & lay them out on a flat surface
in the position you want them.

Take 1 piece of F/E slightly longer than the finished height & screw
it to the ledges using a square to ensure all is at right angles, 2
screws in each ledge.

Loose lay the rest of the F/E across the ledges & adjust until you
have a roughly even overlap. Now make a 'spacer' to this gap size. Use
this to keep the overlap even. Screw boards to ledges so the
last board overlaps the length of the ledges slightly.

Turn the whole lot over. Lay out 2 pieces in position for the
braces, mark where they meet the ledges, join the lines & cut the
angle carefully. Screw in from other side.

Trim top, bottom & edge to final size with circular saw.


One this no-one's mentioned is that the braces need to "point" the
right way, with the base near the hinge and the top on the latch
side. For a really quality job notch the ledge a little (say 10mm)
where the brace will meet it so the end of the brace sits in the
notch.

Very true. Surprising how many gates one see's with the brace's pointing
the wrong way.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Framed-Ledge...te/invt/187709

Somehting liek that but without the frame aroudn the edges maybe

ANyone recommend a specific type of screw to use to put it together and a
hinge kit?

I spose I can go to Wickes and look at theiroutdoor wood section

I bought 2 large T hinges

Whats the best way to fit them?

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit between the
posts.

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to fit a
gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit between
the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane them to
fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell during rainy
weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a post to one
that you have made about making a garden gate and want advice to fit it...or
something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make sure that
the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal bits) and that any
braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the hanging side to the slamming
side to take the downward force of the front of the gate and prevent it
dragging the ground after a while.

Now feel free to give any more information that would get you a definitive
answer

Cash

"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to fit
a gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit between
the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane
them to fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell
during rainy weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a post
to one that you have made about making a garden gate and want advice
to fit it...or something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make
sure that the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal bits)
and that any braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the hanging
side to the slamming side to take the downward force of the front of
the gate and prevent it dragging the ground after a while.

Now feel free to give any more information that would get you a
definitive answer

Cash




Yes I am making a garden gate (or door) and just wanted to know how to
fit it. I have bought all the bits and will be putting them together
tomorrow as described above.

http://www.oakdoorsnfloors.co.uk/ima...brace-door.jpg

mo wrote:
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to
fit a gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit between
the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane
them to fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell
during rainy weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a post
to one that you have made about making a garden gate and want advice
to fit it...or something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make
sure that the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal bits)
and that any braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the hanging
side to the slamming side to take the downward force of the front of
the gate and prevent it dragging the ground after a while.

Now feel free to give any more information that would get you a
definitive answer

Cash




Yes I am making a garden gate (or door) and just wanted to know how to
fit it. I have bought all the bits and will be putting them together
tomorrow as described above.

http://www.oakdoorsnfloors.co.uk/ima...brace-door.jpg

Mo,

The hinge fitting is as I said (see tinypic link here)
http://i46.tinypic.com/28apzcw.jpg and use either galvanised or japanned
screws of the correct size.

Depending on how you want the door to open, you can fit the hinges either on
the face of the door or the braces (as shown), either way, make sure that
the hinge flap is far enough over the edge of the door to fit on the jamb
and leave the 3 to 6mm gap between door and frame (ensure the same gap on
the slamming side).

I would also suggest that you leave something like a 12mm gap between the
bottom of the door and the floor (more if possible) - and ensure that the
cut bottom and top edges are decorated to the desired finish before fitting
to prevent the end grain soaking up water - you can decorate the rest after
hanging if preferred.

This is a brief outline, let me know if you want more (or specific)
information.

Cash

"mo" wrote in message
.. .
I bought 2 large T hinges

Whats the best way to fit them?

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit between the
posts.


From a purely gravitational point of view, you will find it much easier to
put the hinges on the gate while it is lying down comfortably, than when you
are trying to hold it up against a swinging hinge that you have fixed to a
gate post. On the other hand, once the hinge is on the gate, you can easy
stick your foot under the bottom to hold the hinges against the post while
you mark off the first couple of holes and get the top screw in.

S

"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to
fit a gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit
between the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane
them to fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell
during rainy weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a post
to one that you have made about making a garden gate and want advice
to fit it...or something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make
sure that the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal bits)
and that any braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the hanging
side to the slamming side to take the downward force of the front of
the gate and prevent it dragging the ground after a while.
Right, I laid out the wood on the floor, lined them up. I then screwed
on my 3 horizontal bits and cut the ends of the door to the correct
height

All I have to do now is cut the lengths for my diagonal pieces. Problem
is HOW?

I am finding it hard to get the angles properly measured up whilst the
horizontal bits are stuck to the door. I am guessing there is an easy
way around this - anyone care to share? I am not great at sawwing and
ideally would like to be able to get a proper line drawn all the way
across the wood or i will end up screwing it up!

"mo" wrote in message
.. .
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to
fit a gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit
between the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane
them to fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell
during rainy weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a post
to one that you have made about making a garden gate and want advice
to fit it...or something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make
sure that the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal bits)
and that any braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the hanging
side to the slamming side to take the downward force of the front of
the gate and prevent it dragging the ground after a while.
Right, I laid out the wood on the floor, lined them up. I then screwed
on my 3 horizontal bits and cut the ends of the door to the correct
height

All I have to do now is cut the lengths for my diagonal pieces. Problem
is HOW?

I am finding it hard to get the angles properly measured up whilst the
horizontal bits are stuck to the door. I am guessing there is an easy
way around this - anyone care to share? I am not great at sawwing and
ideally would like to be able to get a proper line drawn all the way
across the wood or i will end up screwing it up!


One way would be: put some sheets of writing paper with strips of double
sided tape on the upper side, in roughly the right position on the
horizontal boards. Making sure the edge of the paper is neatly along the
edge of the board. Then lay your diagonals across so that the paper then
transfers to them, and you can then draw along the straight edge and saw to
size. Messier methods would be to grease or paint the horizontals and
transfer the line across that way. O r of course you can just lay the
diagonals in place and mark underneath on either side with a stubby pencil.
I'm sure you will think of a method that suits you.

S

mo wrote:
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
"Cash" wrote in
:

mo wrote:
I bought 2 large T hinges

Good, that's a start.

Whats the best way to fit them?

With screws - preferably rust-resistant ones - and don't forget to
fit a gate catch as well!

Onto the post first or onto the door first?

Generally you fit them on the "door" first and then the gate jamb.

I have left a bit of space on either side of the door to fit
between the posts.

Now that's a good idea, that'll save you having to initially plane
them to fit - and then it also allows room for the 'door' to swell
during rainy weather.

Mo, I seem to have missed something here, is this an extra to a
post to one that you have made about making a garden gate and want
advice to fit it...or something else?

Now presuming that it's about fitting a T&G garden gate, then make
sure that the hinges are screwed on the ledges (the horizontal
bits) and that any braces (the angled bits) run upwards from the
hanging side to the slamming side to take the downward force of
the front of the gate and prevent it dragging the ground after a
while.
Right, I laid out the wood on the floor, lined them up. I then screwed
on my 3 horizontal bits and cut the ends of the door to the correct
height

All I have to do now is cut the lengths for my diagonal pieces.
Problem is HOW?

I am finding it hard to get the angles properly measured up whilst the
horizontal bits are stuck to the door. I am guessing there is an easy
way around this - anyone care to share? I am not great at sawwing and
ideally would like to be able to get a proper line drawn all the way
across the wood or i will end up screwing it up!

Mo,

Mark in from either edge of the ledges around 25mm, lay the brace with its
outside edges on the two points and this will give the angle (see the
picture and that will give you the idea) - and simply draw a horizontal line
on the top and bottom of the brace following the line of the ledges.

Cut along these lines, just leaving the pencil mark in and then drop the
brace in (which should be a nice snug fit and possibly needing a tap or two
with a hammer to encourage it) and then fix it.

You don't need any complicated gauges, maths or sliding bevels to do the
job, look at the photo you produced, and the simplicity of it will become
very obvious.

I would advise against trying to do any of the compound joints here that
could be done, and simply use 'flat' faces and rely on a 'snug' fit and
screws - remember that you will put two screws into the brace on every board
and rising up the angle of the brace.

Cash