[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

The back door lock has always been a bit of a puzzle.

In a UPVC door.
One full turn and the door is locked but the handle is still floppy.
Another full turn and the handle firms up.
Another half turn or so before it seems to finish locking.

I don't think I have ever encountered a lock with so many turns between
locked and unlocked.
I would normally expect all this to happen within 3/4 to 1 1/4 turns.

The lock is now refusing to unlock from the second turn to the first turn
without a lot of juggling, cursing, swearing etc. so I am about to take it
out and try and get a replacement.
Lubrication via the key this morning made it worse instead of better.
If locked on the first turn only it seems fine but if you overshoot then it
is a lot of hassle.
Not good if you want to get out in a hurry!

There is also a stranger little black box on the door which looks like some
kind of burgalar alarm.
It has 'Semco' as a name on the little lock (we don't have a key) an on/off
sliding switch and something that looks like a stereo jack socket.
The oblong box also has a spy hole (as it is mounted high and near the door
jamb and there is a step down as well I can't see how you would ever see
anything useful).

Google finds a Semco alarm which is battery operated (although not like
ours) so I am hoping that it is not connected in any way to the door lock!

Wierd to have this on the back door but not the front, although the back
door may be older than the front door.
Possibly a legacy of owner -2.

The runes of doom keem coming up with "Specialist lock integrated in door.
New door please."
I am trying to ignore them and will sacrifice a virgin for an alternative
reading (although sourcing one may be a problem around here).

Cheers

Dave R

[Dave Osborne[_2_]]

On 11/03/2010 09:05, David WE Roberts wrote:
The back door lock has always been a bit of a puzzle.

In a UPVC door.
One full turn and the door is locked but the handle is still floppy.

First turn throws the bolt as for a conventional mortice lock.

Another full turn and the handle firms up.
Another half turn or so before it seems to finish locking.


Second turn (and a bit) throws the mechanism on the multi-point bolts.
You should see this happening if you lock the door whilst it's open.


I don't think I have ever encountered a lock with so many turns between
locked and unlocked.
I would normally expect all this to happen within 3/4 to 1 1/4 turns.


There are loads of different manufacturers of UPVC door locks. Each has
his own variation on mechanism.

The lock is now refusing to unlock from the second turn to the first
turn without a lot of juggling, cursing, swearing etc.

Something is broken or very worn either inside the main lock case or
between the main lock case and the satellite mechanisms.

so I am about to
take it out and try and get a replacement.

OK

Lubrication via the key this morning made it worse instead of better.

Sounds like a coincidence.

If locked on the first turn only it seems fine but if you overshoot then
it is a lot of hassle.
Not good if you want to get out in a hurry!



The runes of doom keem coming up with "Specialist lock integrated in
door. New door please."

New door only if you get to the point where you can't open the door at
all and you trash the door getting it open!

I am trying to ignore them and will sacrifice a virgin for an
alternative reading (although sourcing one may be a problem around here).


www.dgsupplyline.co.uk

HTH

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"Dave Osborne" wrote in message
...
On 11/03/2010 09:05, David WE Roberts wrote:
The back door lock has always been a bit of a puzzle.

In a UPVC door.
One full turn and the door is locked but the handle is still floppy.

First turn throws the bolt as for a conventional mortice lock.

Another full turn and the handle firms up.
Another half turn or so before it seems to finish locking.


Second turn (and a bit) throws the mechanism on the multi-point bolts. You
should see this happening if you lock the door whilst it's open.


I don't think I have ever encountered a lock with so many turns between
locked and unlocked.
I would normally expect all this to happen within 3/4 to 1 1/4 turns.


There are loads of different manufacturers of UPVC door locks. Each has
his own variation on mechanism.

The lock is now refusing to unlock from the second turn to the first
turn without a lot of juggling, cursing, swearing etc.

Something is broken or very worn either inside the main lock case or
between the main lock case and the satellite mechanisms.

so I am about to
take it out and try and get a replacement.

OK

Lubrication via the key this morning made it worse instead of better.

Sounds like a coincidence.

If locked on the first turn only it seems fine but if you overshoot then
it is a lot of hassle.
Not good if you want to get out in a hurry!



The runes of doom keem coming up with "Specialist lock integrated in
door. New door please."

New door only if you get to the point where you can't open the door at all
and you trash the door getting it open!

I am trying to ignore them and will sacrifice a virgin for an
alternative reading (although sourcing one may be a problem around here).


The lock mechanism is Yale.
The door is Everest.
There isn't the usual surface plate with lugs that you see on most modern
doors - there is a concealed bolt which engages top and bottom when you
raise the handle.
Turn the key one turn and the lock goes out but the handle isn't
immobilised.
Turn the key a second time and the handle is immobilised.
There is then another part turn and the lock goes out a bit further for no
apparent reason.

I have replaced the Yale barrel (undo one screw and the whole thing pulls
out of the side of the door) with an after market replacement.
The barrel just has a short bar which rotates inside the lock meachanism and
works arcane magic (or not).
The new barrel went in and seemed to work O.K.
Closed the door, locked it, and now it won't unlock.
So there is something in the main mechanism which is jamming up.

I have no idea if the main lock mechanism can be extracted and
repaired/replaced (assuming I can open the door again).

Runes of Doom are looking suspiciously accurate.

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/....html?t=223683 from 2006 makes
depressing reading - allegedly Everest wanted £150 just for a new handle
mechanism.

[David WE Roberts[_2_]]

"David WE Roberts" wrote in message
...

"Dave Osborne" wrote in message
...
On 11/03/2010 09:05, David WE Roberts wrote:
The back door lock has always been a bit of a puzzle.
snip
The lock mechanism is Yale.
The door is Everest.
There isn't the usual surface plate with lugs that you see on most modern
doors - there is a concealed bolt which engages top and bottom when you
raise the handle.
Turn the key one turn and the lock goes out but the handle isn't
immobilised.
Turn the key a second time and the handle is immobilised.
There is then another part turn and the lock goes out a bit further for no
apparent reason.

I have replaced the Yale barrel (undo one screw and the whole thing pulls
out of the side of the door) with an after market replacement.
The barrel just has a short bar which rotates inside the lock meachanism
and works arcane magic (or not).
The new barrel went in and seemed to work O.K.
Closed the door, locked it, and now it won't unlock.
So there is something in the main mechanism which is jamming up.

I have no idea if the main lock mechanism can be extracted and
repaired/replaced (assuming I can open the door again).

Runes of Doom are looking suspiciously accurate.

http://forums.moneysavingexpert.com/....html?t=223683 from 2006
makes depressing reading - allegedly Everest wanted £150 just for a new
handle mechanism.

Use of judicious force (on the principle that if it was screwed anyway then
a broken key wasn't going to add much) got it open again.

Another strip down and oil and WD40 into everything I could access and the
lock seemed to work O.K. with the door open, although it could be induced to
jam sometimes by applying lateral pressure to the tounge(?)/bolt of the lock
when fully extended.

Put it all back together and the door wouldn't lock.

Checked the alignment and the lock was right at the bottom of the striker
plate - presumably a minor re-alignment when lubricating was now preventing
the bolt shooting.
Lost of jiggling and juggling couldn't get it to lock.

So I filed out the striker plate to make more room for the bolt and now it
seems to lock and unlock O.K. (so far)

Looking at the alignment (or not) of various components and screw holes
(including the fact that there was a spacing washer at the bottom of the
plate covering the lock mechanism but not at the top to get it to align with
the door) I concluded that the installation had always been marginal and
probably pressure on the bolt had gradually worn the internals until they
started to jam.

I am now hoping that the mechanism will last until we redo the back of the
house in a year or so at which point the back door will be filled in.

Another day gone without major progress on the shed but I didn't fancy
having a back door that I couldn't unlock.

Cheers

Dave R

[Dave Osborne[_2_]]

On 11/03/2010 15:34, David WE Roberts wrote:

Put it all back together and the door wouldn't lock.

Checked the alignment and the lock was right at the bottom of the
striker plate - presumably a minor re-alignment when lubricating was now
preventing the bolt shooting.
Lost of jiggling and juggling couldn't get it to lock.

So I filed out the striker plate to make more room for the bolt and now
it seems to lock and unlock O.K. (so far)

Actually, it sounds as though the front edge of the door has dropped
(which is why you needed to file the strike plate) and put the
top/bottom locking out of alignment as well.

It sounds as though you have done all the right things. You should be
aware that the top and bottom strike plates are also adjustable and
further, you can screw the top and bottom bars/rods in and out to adjust
their effective length.