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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.

--
Michael Chare




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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp


Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp


Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Bob


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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:27:32 +0000, Bob Minchin wrote:

PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Bob


I'm not that old - yet! ;-)
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-16, Bob wrote:
PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain

Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.


Err, I'm sat looking at an Anglepoise lamp which has a 5W CFL in it. No
adjustment to the springs required.


Surprised to read that Hugh. Anglepoise lamps I have seem to be so
critically balanced that a tap on the lamp shade will set it moving. The
springs give a fairly well damped oscillation and it soon comes to rest
at the original position.

I assume that a 5w CFL will be quite a bit heavier than a 'proper' bulb
and hence my comment.
What happens to your lamp if you take the bulb out? Mine shoot skywards.

Bob
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Feb 16, 9:46*am, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:
"PeterC" wrote in message
.. .
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.


I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. *I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.


If you cant find anything to fit, perhaps you could take out the old
flex, locate the failure point (by wiggling it with multimeter clipped
on) and shorten it. Then to clean it up run the flex thru the
dishwasher, give it a week to dry and refit old flex good as new.


NT
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On 18 Feb 2010 11:33:23 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2010-02-18, Bob Minchin wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-16, Bob wrote:
PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain

Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Err, I'm sat looking at an Anglepoise lamp which has a 5W CFL in it. No
adjustment to the springs required.


Surprised to read that Hugh. Anglepoise lamps I have seem to be so
critically balanced that a tap on the lamp shade will set it moving. The
springs give a fairly well damped oscillation and it soon comes to rest
at the original position.

I assume that a 5w CFL will be quite a bit heavier than a 'proper' bulb


A challenge!

The Ring 5W CFL in there weighs 35gm (on my electronic kitchen scales, which
only resolve to 5gm) and an Osram 40W GLS bulb weighs 30gm.


I'll be using an 11W CFL (no way of accurately weighing it, 2 oz. on an old
spring balance). That's OK in the big 'commercial' job on my desk but would
need care in an AP.

It's a genuine (although probably at least 25 years old and slightly
battered after several house moves) Anglepoise with (non-adjustable)
springs. I'm sure my Dad had one with adjustable springs, although Gawd
knows where that went.


Mine's from 1968 and is the 'deluxe' version; the cheaper one didn't have
adjustable springs.

and hence my comment.
What happens to your lamp if you take the bulb out? Mine shoot skywards.


Mine too.


2 of the pivot points have washers - I assume fibre (very small and I'm not
risking them by over-enthusiastic inspection) in that are for adjusting
friction. I tightened mine after nearly being hit by the rapidly ascending
shade.


--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:35:58 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

On Feb 16, 9:46*am, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:
"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.


I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. *I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.


If you cant find anything to fit, perhaps you could take out the old
flex, locate the failure point (by wiggling it with multimeter clipped
on) and shorten it. Then to clean it up run the flex thru the
dishwasher, give it a week to dry and refit old flex good as new.

NT


The break was too far from an end :-(

I'm the dishwasher and I have my limits!

Just been to B&Q but nowt there. I can feel a bodgification coming on.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.


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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Feb 18, 3:21*pm, PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:35:58 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:
On Feb 16, 9:46*am, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:
"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.


I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. *I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.


I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.


If you cant find anything to fit, perhaps you could take out the old
flex, locate the failure point (by wiggling it with multimeter clipped
on) and shorten it. Then to clean it up run the flex thru the
dishwasher, give it a week to dry and refit old flex good as new.


NT


The break was too far from an end :-(

I'm the dishwasher and I have my limits!

Just been to B&Q but nowt there. I can feel a bodgification coming on.



There's probably somewhere that sells such stuff for £1 a metre,
there are niche flexes out there. But where to suggest I really don't
know.


NT
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-18, Bob wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-16, Bob wrote:
PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain

Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Err, I'm sat looking at an Anglepoise lamp which has a 5W CFL in it. No
adjustment to the springs required.


Surprised to read that Hugh. Anglepoise lamps I have seem to be so
critically balanced that a tap on the lamp shade will set it moving. The
springs give a fairly well damped oscillation and it soon comes to rest
at the original position.

I assume that a 5w CFL will be quite a bit heavier than a 'proper' bulb


A challenge!

The Ring 5W CFL in there weighs 35gm (on my electronic kitchen scales, which
only resolve to 5gm) and an Osram 40W GLS bulb weighs 30gm.

It's a genuine (although probably at least 25 years old and slightly
battered after several house moves) Anglepoise with (non-adjustable)
springs. I'm sure my Dad had one with adjustable springs, although Gawd
knows where that went.

and hence my comment.
What happens to your lamp if you take the bulb out? Mine shoot skywards.


Mine too.

Very interesting Hugh. I'd have thought that the transformer in the CFL
would add much more weight. maybe with a low power inverter, a small
ferrite suffices. I don't have a 5w cfl to hand but the lowest power one
I do have is 15w and that weighs 130gm.

As an aside, I just switched on the light in the cupboards where the
spare lamps are kept and it pinged so had to fit a new one!!

Bob
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On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:12:13 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

There's probably somewhere that sells such stuff for £1 a metre,
there are niche flexes out there. But where to suggest I really don't
know.


No, I haven't yet found anywhere.
B&Q wanted about 6 quid for 5m of 0.5 (that doesn't fit) - not too bad, but
I need 3m and the remaining 2m would be of no use as I have about 20m of
white anyway.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On 19 Feb, 09:28, PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:12:13 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:
There's probably somewhere that sells such stuff for £1 *a metre,
there are niche flexes out there. But where to suggest I really don't
know.


No, I haven't yet found anywhere.
B&Q wanted about 6 quid for 5m of 0.5 (that doesn't fit) - not too bad, but
I need 3m and the remaining 2m would be of no use as I have about 20m of
white anyway.


Any of these any good (look down the list there are some slim ones)?
http://www.lampsandlights.co.uk/flex3.htm
http://www.cablespecialists.co.uk/decorative.htm

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On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 02:49:18 -0800 (PST), Bolted wrote:

On 19 Feb, 09:28, PeterC wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:12:13 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:
There's probably somewhere that sells such stuff for £1 *a metre,
there are niche flexes out there. But where to suggest I really don't
know.


No, I haven't yet found anywhere.
B&Q wanted about 6 quid for 5m of 0.5 (that doesn't fit) - not too bad, but
I need 3m and the remaining 2m would be of no use as I have about 20m of
white anyway.


Any of these any good (look down the list there are some slim ones)?
http://www.lampsandlights.co.uk/flex3.htm
http://www.cablespecialists.co.uk/decorative.htm


Thank you for the links.

The first might be OK - I'd have to e-mail for the OD.

The second has some that are possibilities - certainly thinner than the 6mm
of the stuff I've got.

One problem is that the holes in the arms of the AP are rectangular with
rounded ends (flat elipse?), so eliptical or flat-twin is necessary to
allow the grommet to be deformed to fit the hole.
Widening the hole would solve the problem - by causing the arm to break or
bend!
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.


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Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:27:41 +0000, PeterC
wrote:

One problem is that the holes in the arms of the AP are rectangular with
rounded ends (flat elipse?), so eliptical or flat-twin is necessary to
allow the grommet to be deformed to fit the hole.


Not if you do the earthing like the original - the remaining twisted pair fit
the slot:-
http://www.diy.110mb.com/angleflx.jpg

--
Geo
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On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 18:30:41 GMT, Geo wrote:

On Fri, 19 Feb 2010 13:27:41 +0000, PeterC
wrote:

One problem is that the holes in the arms of the AP are rectangular with
rounded ends (flat elipse?), so eliptical or flat-twin is necessary to
allow the grommet to be deformed to fit the hole.


Not if you do the earthing like the original - the remaining twisted pair fit
the slot:-
http://www.diy.110mb.com/angleflx.jpg


Yes, similar to how mine was - but mine had plasticky flex. It's getting
flat-3 rather than 3-core that's the challenge, as I don't want to break
out the earth from sheathed flex.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
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