A DIY & home improvement forum. DIYbanter

If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.

Go Back   Home » DIYbanter forum » Do - it - Yourself » UK diy
Site Map Home Register Authors List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Web Partners

UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp



 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old February 15th 10, 09:10 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
Ads
  #2  
Old February 16th 10, 01:05 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 337
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.

--
Michael Chare




  #3  
Old February 16th 10, 09:44 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp


Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
  #4  
Old February 16th 10, 09:46 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:

"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.

I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
  #5  
Old February 16th 10, 04:27 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,323
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp


Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Bob
  #6  
Old February 16th 10, 06:27 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 16:27:32 +0000, Bob Minchin wrote:

PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain


Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Bob


I'm not that old - yet! ;-)
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
  #7  
Old February 18th 10, 11:13 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,323
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-16, Bob wrote:
PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain

Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.


Err, I'm sat looking at an Anglepoise lamp which has a 5W CFL in it. No
adjustment to the springs required.


Surprised to read that Hugh. Anglepoise lamps I have seem to be so
critically balanced that a tap on the lamp shade will set it moving. The
springs give a fairly well damped oscillation and it soon comes to rest
at the original position.

I assume that a 5w CFL will be quite a bit heavier than a 'proper' bulb
and hence my comment.
What happens to your lamp if you take the bulb out? Mine shoot skywards.

Bob
  #8  
Old February 18th 10, 11:35 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,574
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Feb 16, 9:46*am, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:
"PeterC" wrote in message
.. .
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.


I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. *I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.


If you cant find anything to fit, perhaps you could take out the old
flex, locate the failure point (by wiggling it with multimeter clipped
on) and shorten it. Then to clean it up run the flex thru the
dishwasher, give it a week to dry and refit old flex good as new.


NT
  #9  
Old February 18th 10, 03:18 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On 18 Feb 2010 11:33:23 GMT, Huge wrote:

On 2010-02-18, Bob Minchin wrote:
Huge wrote:
On 2010-02-16, Bob wrote:
PeterC wrote:
fOn Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:11:55 -0800 (PST), Owain wrote:

On 15 Feb, 09:10, PeterC wrote:
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp

Fit a 12V lamp into a BC adapter in the lampholder and use an external
transformer so the Anglepoise is only running low voltage.

Owain

Certainly avoids 240V on the lamp, but portability...

Also, I'm 'tuning' it to take a CFL.

If by tuning you mean adjusting the counterbalance springs then fair
enough. Without such adjustment, a CFL will be far too heavy and the
lamp end will droop.

Err, I'm sat looking at an Anglepoise lamp which has a 5W CFL in it. No
adjustment to the springs required.


Surprised to read that Hugh. Anglepoise lamps I have seem to be so
critically balanced that a tap on the lamp shade will set it moving. The
springs give a fairly well damped oscillation and it soon comes to rest
at the original position.

I assume that a 5w CFL will be quite a bit heavier than a 'proper' bulb


A challenge!

The Ring 5W CFL in there weighs 35gm (on my electronic kitchen scales, which
only resolve to 5gm) and an Osram 40W GLS bulb weighs 30gm.


I'll be using an 11W CFL (no way of accurately weighing it, 2 oz. on an old
spring balance). That's OK in the big 'commercial' job on my desk but would
need care in an AP.

It's a genuine (although probably at least 25 years old and slightly
battered after several house moves) Anglepoise with (non-adjustable)
springs. I'm sure my Dad had one with adjustable springs, although Gawd
knows where that went.


Mine's from 1968 and is the 'deluxe' version; the cheaper one didn't have
adjustable springs.

and hence my comment.
What happens to your lamp if you take the bulb out? Mine shoot skywards.


Mine too.


2 of the pivot points have washers - I assume fibre (very small and I'm not
risking them by over-enthusiastic inspection) in that are for adjusting
friction. I tightened mine after nearly being hit by the rapidly ascending
shade.


--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
  #10  
Old February 18th 10, 03:21 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,824
Default Rewiring an Anglepoise lamp

On Thu, 18 Feb 2010 03:35:58 -0800 (PST), NT wrote:

On Feb 16, 9:46*am, PeterC wrote:
On Tue, 16 Feb 2010 01:05:24 -0000, Michael Chare wrote:
"PeterC" wrote in message
...
Just rebuilt a mid-'60s bog-standard Anglepoise lamp as it was getting
floppy, mucky and the flex was intermittent in function! (i.e. bloody near
nackered).
Flex was flat-three, with the earth connected to the bottom of the first,
central, arm and the remaing two fed through the arms. This meant, of
course, that there was only one layer of insulation between conductor and
sharpish metal and that the earth went through three sets of joints.


I'm wondering what to use now. Even 0.5mm miniature mains flex might be
too
big to get through the grommets (and could be a right abstrad to feed
through) and I haven't been able to find any flat-three.
With 3-core flex, the earth would have to be brought out at the top, but
that's no bad thing and no worse than being at the bottom.


Mine is wired with a round plastic covered three core flex. *I have a
brass/(or brass plated) bulb holder with an earth terminal.
My main problem is that it gets to hot to turn off.


My lamp-holder is Bakelite, but I'll use a CFL in it.

I'll see if I can find some miniature mains flex, pref. black, to use.


If you cant find anything to fit, perhaps you could take out the old
flex, locate the failure point (by wiggling it with multimeter clipped
on) and shorten it. Then to clean it up run the flex thru the
dishwasher, give it a week to dry and refit old flex good as new.

NT


The break was too far from an end :-(

I'm the dishwasher and I have my limits!

Just been to B&Q but nowt there. I can feel a bodgification coming on.
--
Peter.
2x4 - thick plank; 4x4 - two of 'em.
 




Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Anglepoise/ Luxo inspection lamp proble N_Cook Electronics Repair 8 March 13th 09 08:04 PM
? on rewiring lamp. J.Lef Home Repair 18 January 22nd 08 03:09 AM
rewiring a UV strip lamp on garden pond filter taylerlee UK diy 3 May 15th 06 08:37 AM
AC polarity - Lamp rewiring Darro Home Repair 3 March 3rd 05 02:29 AM
Anglepoise lamp? braxi UK diy 6 August 12th 03 04:05 PM


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 11:16 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.SEO by vBSEO ©2010, Crawlability, Inc.
Copyright 2004-2014 DIYbanter.
The comments are property of their posters.