[Tim S]

Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

Ta

Tim

[Tim S]

Owain coughed up some electrons that declared:

On 6 Sep, 23:48, Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:
I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).
Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...
Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

For glass AIUI you'd make a little 'well' around the hole with
plasticene and fill the well with oil to lubricate.

That's a good idea. I'll nick the kids' PlayDoh (again).

If it all goes horribly wrong you'll just have to persuade the Decor
Inspector that pedestal mats are in vogue again.

If that happens, the Decor Inspector will decide I look good wearing
testicle ear-rings!

Cheers!

Tim

[JoeJoe]

"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

Ta

Tim

Try one of those for starting -
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/53634/...20TILE-_-53634

They are fantastic.

One hole established, build up the dimensions slowly.

[Dave Liquorice[_2_]]

On Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:48:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

No hammer for a start. B-)

I'd get an 8mm tile drill either one of the flat pointy things or a
"pirana" from B&D IIRC. To stop the wander gently center punch the
glaze at the right place. Nice a slow to start untill you get a feel
for how well the drill is cutting.

I'd not bother with a plastercine well and definately not oil of
anysort as a coolant/lubricant (it'll get into the grout...) little
bit of water from a sprayer or small squirty bottle will do.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[The Medway Handyman]

Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

Bosch multi purpose drill bit
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/82523/...-Bit-8-x-250mm

Very sharp point compared to normal masonry bit. Start without hammer
action, push firmly until you hear a sort of crunching sound (point of bit
penetrating tile glaze) then start drill on slow speed.

These bits are bloody wonderful things, buy yourself a set.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[gunsmith]

On 6 Sep, 23:51, Owain wrote:

If it all goes horribly wrong you'll just have to persuade the Decor
Inspector that pedestal mats are in vogue again.

Quite good for soaking up the drips too.

[David in Normandy[_6_]]

Dave Liquorice wrote:
I'd not bother with a plastercine well and definately not oil of
anysort as a coolant/lubricant (it'll get into the grout...) little
bit of water from a sprayer or small squirty bottle will do.


I use a plant mister to occasionally spray the hole and drill bit. If
the bit gets too hot it will blunt. Very slow process though. I used
ordinary, brand new masonry bits without hammer action on some very hard
floor tiles and it took me around fifteen minutes per hole! After six
holes each bit was completely blunt. Someone suggested I should have
started with the smallest masonry bit available then work up sizes. I
live and learn.

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

[Stuart Noble]

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:48:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

No hammer for a start. B-)

I'd get an 8mm tile drill either one of the flat pointy things or a
"pirana" from B&D IIRC. To stop the wander gently center punch the
glaze at the right place. Nice a slow to start untill you get a feel
for how well the drill is cutting.

I'd not bother with a plastercine well and definately not oil of
anysort as a coolant/lubricant (it'll get into the grout...) little
bit of water from a sprayer or small squirty bottle will do.


Wait a day or so before drilling newly laid tiles, especially if there's
extra adhesive under there

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

If they're porcelain tiles a masonry drill or tile one will be useless.
Best to get a diamond one. And use plenty water to keep it cool.

--
*I like cats, too. Let's exchange recipes.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[PeterC]

On Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:48:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

For starting in such materials I use some tape, then put the bit in a wheel
brace, hold the wheel (not tbe handle) and rock it so that the bit does
about a quarter-turn back and forth. It can't wander off as it never turns
enough. Also, with no noise from a motor, I can apply pressure until a
slight grinding noise is just visible, so I know that the bit is beginning
to bite but isn't going in too fast.
Out of curiosity I once put a 6mm tile bit through a wall tile by finger
power alone - not recommended but does show how good the correct bits are.


--
Peter.
The head of a pin will hold more angels if
it's been flattened with an angel-grinder.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
David in Normandy wrote:
I used
ordinary, brand new masonry bits without hammer action on some very hard
floor tiles and it took me around fifteen minutes per hole! After six
holes each bit was completely blunt. Someone suggested I should have
started with the smallest masonry bit available then work up sizes. I
live and learn.

Same here on porcelain wall tiles. Which could be used on the floor. Had
lots of holes to drill being a bathroom and tried masonry, tile and those
Bosch universal types, and destroyed them all. Screwfix sell diamond core
drills which do work, although slow. DeWalt last longer than the no brand
ones. Once you've made a hole they can be enlarged with a Bosch one.

--
*I wished the buck stopped here, as I could use a few*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Andy Dingley]

On 6 Sep, 23:48, Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Two drill bits, ideally two drills (esp. if you're

Mark out with masking tape, well rubbed down, and personally I like to
try a manual centrepunch first by pressing (not hitting) a carbide
scriber point through. There's little risk of cracking a tile, but
there's still some and this increases if the tiles are poorly
supported beneath. Much depends on your individual tiles - some have
really hard glazes that increase the risk of skidding.

Start out with a "leaf" bit, usually sold for glass (Axminster) Start
out gently and don't worry about cracking, worry about sideways
skidding instead. DO NOT HAMMER. For that reason I prefer to use two
drills for this, plain drill for the leaf and SDS for the masonry bit.
This also saves me swapping chucks, but mostly it's to avoid finger
trouble when switching one drill in and out of hammer mode.

Use the leaf to go through the surface porcelain glaze, out to the
full diameter of the hole. Usually you can get right through the back
full diameter too. This hole should be oversize on the final fitting,
so that there's no contact between the bolt or screw and the tile.

Then switch drills to your SDS and a simple SDS hammer bit for
drilling the wall itself. Drill centrally, without thumping the tile.

[Tim S]

Dave Plowman (News) coughed up some electrons that declared:

In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

If they're porcelain tiles a masonry drill or tile one will be useless.
Best to get a diamond one. And use plenty water to keep it cool.


Only ceramic tiles (ie "normal" tiles)

Cheers

Tim

[Tim S]

Stuart Noble coughed up some electrons that declared:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:48:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

No hammer for a start. B-)

I'd get an 8mm tile drill either one of the flat pointy things or a
"pirana" from B&D IIRC. To stop the wander gently center punch the
glaze at the right place. Nice a slow to start untill you get a feel
for how well the drill is cutting.

I'd not bother with a plastercine well and definately not oil of
anysort as a coolant/lubricant (it'll get into the grout...) little
bit of water from a sprayer or small squirty bottle will do.


Wait a day or so before drilling newly laid tiles, especially if there's
extra adhesive under there

Good idea - ta

[Tim S]

David in Normandy coughed up some electrons that declared:

Dave Liquorice wrote:
I'd not bother with a plastercine well and definately not oil of
anysort as a coolant/lubricant (it'll get into the grout...) little
bit of water from a sprayer or small squirty bottle will do.


I use a plant mister to occasionally spray the hole and drill bit. If
the bit gets too hot it will blunt. Very slow process though. I used
ordinary, brand new masonry bits without hammer action on some very hard
floor tiles and it took me around fifteen minutes per hole! After six
holes each bit was completely blunt. Someone suggested I should have
started with the smallest masonry bit available then work up sizes. I
live and learn.


Hmm. Perhaps a special bit then - or one of those Bosch ones....

[Tim S]

PeterC coughed up some electrons that declared:

On Sun, 06 Sep 2009 23:48:22 +0100, Tim S wrote:

Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

For starting in such materials I use some tape, then put the bit in a
wheel brace, hold the wheel (not tbe handle) and rock it so that the bit
does about a quarter-turn back and forth. It can't wander off as it never
turns enough. Also, with no noise from a motor, I can apply pressure until
a slight grinding noise is just visible, so I know that the bit is
beginning to bite but isn't going in too fast.
Out of curiosity I once put a 6mm tile bit through a wall tile by finger
power alone - not recommended but does show how good the correct bits are.



Sounds like a really good idea - I do have a brace.

Cheers

Tim

[Calvin Sambrook]

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 6 Sep, 23:48, Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Two drill bits, ideally two drills (esp. if you're

Mark out with masking tape, well rubbed down, and personally I like to
try a manual centrepunch first by pressing (not hitting) a carbide
scriber point through. There's little risk of cracking a tile, but
there's still some and this increases if the tiles are poorly
supported beneath. Much depends on your individual tiles - some have
really hard glazes that increase the risk of skidding.

Start out with a "leaf" bit, usually sold for glass (Axminster) Start
out gently and don't worry about cracking, worry about sideways
skidding instead. DO NOT HAMMER. For that reason I prefer to use two
drills for this, plain drill for the leaf and SDS for the masonry bit.
This also saves me swapping chucks, but mostly it's to avoid finger
trouble when switching one drill in and out of hammer mode.

Use the leaf to go through the surface porcelain glaze, out to the
full diameter of the hole. Usually you can get right through the back
full diameter too. This hole should be oversize on the final fitting,
so that there's no contact between the bolt or screw and the tile.

That bit about the hole being oversize is really important, especially if
you then use a plug in the hole. If you do the plug should be inserted
*past* the tile or it will exert sideways force as it expands.

Then switch drills to your SDS and a simple SDS hammer bit for
drilling the wall itself. Drill centrally, without thumping the tile.


Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no push,
very slow drill, relax.

[Calvin Sambrook]

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 6 Sep, 23:48, Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Two drill bits, ideally two drills (esp. if you're

Mark out with masking tape, well rubbed down, and personally I like to
try a manual centrepunch first by pressing (not hitting) a carbide
scriber point through. There's little risk of cracking a tile, but
there's still some and this increases if the tiles are poorly
supported beneath. Much depends on your individual tiles - some have
really hard glazes that increase the risk of skidding.

Start out with a "leaf" bit, usually sold for glass (Axminster) Start
out gently and don't worry about cracking, worry about sideways
skidding instead. DO NOT HAMMER. For that reason I prefer to use two
drills for this, plain drill for the leaf and SDS for the masonry bit.
This also saves me swapping chucks, but mostly it's to avoid finger
trouble when switching one drill in and out of hammer mode.

Use the leaf to go through the surface porcelain glaze, out to the
full diameter of the hole. Usually you can get right through the back
full diameter too. This hole should be oversize on the final fitting,
so that there's no contact between the bolt or screw and the tile.

That bit about the hole being oversize is really important, especially if
you then use a plug in the hole. If you do the plug should be inserted
*past* the tile or it will exert sideways force as it expands.

Then switch drills to your SDS and a simple SDS hammer bit for
drilling the wall itself. Drill centrally, without thumping the tile.


Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no push,
very slow drill, relax.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
Calvin Sambrook wrote:
Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no
push, very slow drill, relax.

You've never tried porcelain ones. ;-)

--
*Born free - taxed to death *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
Huge wrote:
On 2009-09-07, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Calvin Sambrook wrote:
Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no
push, very slow drill, relax.

You've never tried porcelain ones. ;-)

What he said. After spending an hour drilling four holes for a soap
dish in the shower, I shall look at the tiles more carefully in the
future!

As I said a diamond core drill works just fine - but still takes some time.

--
*Always drink upstream from the herd *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[The Medway Handyman]

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
Tim S wrote:
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

If they're porcelain tiles a masonry drill or tile one will be
useless. Best to get a diamond one. And use plenty water to keep it
cool.

The OP said "glazed ceramic floor tile" - I assume not porcelain or he would
have said so?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[The Medway Handyman]

Calvin Sambrook wrote:


Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no
push, very slow drill, relax.

Same here (assuming they are not porcelain) Multi purpose bit, nice sharp
point, no tape.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Steve Walker]

JoeJoe wrote:
"Tim S" wrote in message
...
Just checked the FAQ but would like to double check:

I need to drill an 8mm or so hole in a glazed ceramic floor tile (bog
screws).

Masonry drill on slow and some insulation tape to stop wander? Am I
correct... Might be near the tile edge...

Can't afford the f*ck up fairy visting here!

Ta

Tim

Try one of those for starting -
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/53634/...20TILE-_-53634

They are fantastic.

Definitely - wouldn't attempt to drill a precious glazed tile without one

[Andy Dingley]

On 7 Sep, 17:06, "Calvin Sambrook" wrote:

Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. *No hammer, no push,
very slow drill, relax.

Most of my tiles have a brick wall behind them and I need to switch to
the SDS to go through that, hence the two drills.

[Jon Fairbairn]

"The Medway Handyman" writes:

Calvin Sambrook wrote:


Personally I've never had any problem drilling tiles. No hammer, no
push, very slow drill, relax.

Same here (assuming they are not porcelain)

What's the issue with porcelain tiles? The porcelain tiles I used on my
kitchen worktop are really quite easy to work. Presumably there's more
than one type of porcelain tile? These are made of the same stuff all
the way through, no glaze.


--
Jón Fairbairn
http://www.chaos.org.uk/~jf/Stuff-I-dont-want.html (updated 2009-01-31)

[David in Normandy[_6_]]

Jon Fairbairn wrote:

What's the issue with porcelain tiles? The porcelain tiles I used on my
kitchen worktop are really quite easy to work. Presumably there's more
than one type of porcelain tile? These are made of the same stuff all
the way through, no glaze.


I was unaware of any difference until I tried drilling the last lot of
floor tiles I bought. Hard as hell. I've drilled tiles fairly easily
over the years with an ordinary masonry bit, but these latest ones are a
real struggle and blunt the bits very easily, even with cooling water
spray. There must be "porcelain" and "porcelain"?

--
David in Normandy.
To e-mail you must include the password FROG on the
subject line, or it will be automatically deleted
by a filter and not reach my inbox.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
David in Normandy wrote:
What's the issue with porcelain tiles? The porcelain tiles I used on my
kitchen worktop are really quite easy to work. Presumably there's more
than one type of porcelain tile? These are made of the same stuff all
the way through, no glaze.


I was unaware of any difference until I tried drilling the last lot of
floor tiles I bought. Hard as hell. I've drilled tiles fairly easily
over the years with an ordinary masonry bit, but these latest ones are a
real struggle and blunt the bits very easily, even with cooling water
spray. There must be "porcelain" and "porcelain"?

Yup. I blunted a proper tile drill when attempting the first hole. Using a
low speed and lots of pressure.

--
*Consciousness: That annoying time between naps.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.