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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
We had some DG windows fitted in our extension about 17 years ago.
These have wooden frames, which match those in the main (1960s) house. The frames are (presumably) pressure treated for sealing against rot etc, but they're (naturally) wood coloured, so I've painted them white since they were fitted (to match the rest of the house). I find I have to repaint parts of the frames almost every year, often needing to strip down to 'bare' wood,because the paint blisters up, off the treated wood. This is worst at the front, which is south facing and experiences the greatest temperature extremes. Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Anyone have any experience / suggestions please? Cheers John |
#2
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
jal wrote:
We had some DG windows fitted in our extension about 17 years ago. These have wooden frames, which match those in the main (1960s) house. The frames are (presumably) pressure treated for sealing against rot etc, but they're (naturally) wood coloured, so I've painted them white since they were fitted (to match the rest of the house). I find I have to repaint parts of the frames almost every year, often needing to strip down to 'bare' wood,because the paint blisters up, off the treated wood. This is worst at the front, which is south facing and experiences the greatest temperature extremes. Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Anyone have any experience / suggestions please? Cheers John Does this happen with oil based paint or water based? What you might need is something with a strong solvent to etch its way into whatever the original coating was. I think microporous was an 80s buzzword. Pile of crap IME. |
#3
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 15:12:13 +0100, jal wrote:
Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Are you thinking of "Ranch Paint"? It was a nice and long lasting one but not 10 years. |
#4
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
In article , EricP
writes On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 15:12:13 +0100, jal wrote: Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Are you thinking of "Ranch Paint"? It was a nice and long lasting one but not 10 years. It has worked well for me but it has become more difficult to get hold of and had been replaced in the sheds by International 10 year Exterior Gloss which is also microporous. The finish is far more glossy than the Ranch paint (also by International) which had a bit more of a soft sheen which I liked. I would use it again for outdoor woodwork. -- fred BBC3, ITV2/3/4, channels going to the DOGs |
#5
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
Stuart Noble wrote:
jal wrote: We had some DG windows fitted in our extension about 17 years ago. These have wooden frames, which match those in the main (1960s) house. The frames are (presumably) pressure treated for sealing against rot etc, but they're (naturally) wood coloured, so I've painted them white since they were fitted (to match the rest of the house). I find I have to repaint parts of the frames almost every year, often needing to strip down to 'bare' wood,because the paint blisters up, off the treated wood. This is worst at the front, which is south facing and experiences the greatest temperature extremes. Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Anyone have any experience / suggestions please? Cheers John Does this happen with oil based paint or water based? What you might need is something with a strong solvent to etch its way into whatever the original coating was. I think microporous was an 80s buzzword. Pile of crap IME. Yup, we fell for that one didn't we. ****e. -- Dave - The Medway Handyman www.medwayhandyman.co.uk |
#6
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
In article ,
"The Medway Handyman" wrote: Stuart Noble wrote: .... I think microporous was an 80s buzzword. Pile of crap IME. Yup, we fell for that one didn't we. ****e. (OP here): well I might have fallen for it, if the prices they were asking didn't far outreach what I was willing to pay! :-) Bearing in mind what Fred has said above ... It has worked well for me but it has become more difficult to get hold of and had been replaced in the sheds by International 10 year Exterior Gloss which is also microporous. The finish is far more glossy than the Ranch paint (also by International) which had a bit more of a soft sheen which I liked. ... I might fall for that one this time around. By the way, yes it's oil-based paint I'm talking about. After l-o-o-o-ng experience, I decided a few years ago that Dulux "Professional" stuff (undercoat and topcoat) is the only paint for my particular techniques. Thanks a lot chaps John |
#7
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Paint for "sealed" wood surface ..."micropore"?
On Mon, 06 Jul 2009 15:12:13 +0100, jal wrote:
We had some DG windows fitted in our extension about 17 years ago. These have wooden frames, which match those in the main (1960s) house. The frames are (presumably) pressure treated for sealing against rot etc, but they're (naturally) wood coloured, so I've painted them white since they were fitted (to match the rest of the house). I find I have to repaint parts of the frames almost every year, often needing to strip down to 'bare' wood,because the paint blisters up, off the treated wood. This is worst at the front, which is south facing and experiences the greatest temperature extremes. Wasn't there some kind of ?micropore? paint invented some years ago which claimed to penetrate wood and not require repainting until, like, 10 years or so? Anyone have any experience / suggestions please? Cheers John We had new timber DG windows fitted about 9-10 years ago. They are pressure treated redwood but the installer specified they were painted with one coat Sikkens Onol followed by two coats Sikkens Rubbol. I believe these paints, at the time, were described as microporous. They have NEVER blistered nor cracked....this was a common problem on the old wooden windows with traditional (usually Permoglaze) undercoat/gloss paint. The Sikkens paint 'wears' rather than cracks/flakes. My usual maintenance is to check them each summer and touch up any thin areas. 2 years ago, I judged the east and south facing units to be worthy of full repaint. All were given a quick wash over with sugarsoap solution, a very light sanding and ONE coat of Sikkens Rubbol Satura. A much easier task than the previous job of rubbing/scraping down, priming, undercoating and then glossing. I would not use anything else now. Any new exterior timber is similarly treated. I do not know how well the Sikkens system works on previously painted surfaces. It is about £15-20 per litre but is worth every penny IMHO Please reply to group - email address is not monitored Ian |
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