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Peter[_11_] May 31st 09 12:33 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a sort
of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way. (for
direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.

Many thanks

Peter





Dave Plowman (News) May 31st 09 01:04 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
In article ,
Peter wrote:
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


There's a clamp adaptor for this - from your local BM.

--
*Always drink upstream from the herd *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Tim S May 31st 09 01:47 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
Peter coughed up some electrons that declared:

I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a
sort of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way.
(for direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor
connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.

Many thanks

Peter


Could you get one of these in?

http://www.hss.com/g/68230/Soil-Pipe...-150mm-6-.html

A.Lee May 31st 09 02:22 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
Peter wrote:

I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a sort
of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way. (for
direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


A hacksaw will not cut cast iron without wearing out both yourself and
the blade quickly.
Angle grinder with cutter blade around the outside. There will be a 3
inch or so section that you cannot reach toward the wall, once you
cannot cut any mpre, just whack it with a hammer, it'll snap reasonably
claenly between the 2 ends of the cuts.
If mine, I'd replace all above the cut with plastic. Numerous adaptors
can be bought to mate them up.
Alan.

--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

Peter[_11_] May 31st 09 02:37 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 

"A.Lee" wrote in message
...
Peter wrote:

I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a
sort
of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way. (for
direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor
connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


A hacksaw will not cut cast iron without wearing out both yourself and
the blade quickly.
Angle grinder with cutter blade around the outside. There will be a 3
inch or so section that you cannot reach toward the wall, once you
cannot cut any mpre, just whack it with a hammer, it'll snap reasonably
claenly between the 2 ends of the cuts.
If mine, I'd replace all above the cut with plastic. Numerous adaptors
can be bought to mate them up.
Alan.

--
Many thanks to all ( gonna give the angle grinder plus hammer a go)




Cicero May 31st 09 02:51 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On Sun, 31 May 2009 11:33:18 +0100, Peter wrote:

I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a
sort of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way.
(for direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor
connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.

Many thanks

Peter


=========================================
B&Q sell a deep hacksaw frame (cutting depth up to about 6") which will
accept standard 12" blades.It's not very good quality compared
with many normal sized frames but quite suitable for this
occasional job. Screwfix and many other places sell blades suitable for
cast iron. Using the correct blade cutting cast iron is really quite easy
provided that you take your time, and it's much cleaner than an angle
grinder which will emit a stream of hot dust.

If you consider using one of the ratchet type cutters (not really true
ratchet) be aware that they're quite heavy and can be difficult to use if
you haven't got a clear section of pipe to cut. A casting seam can cause
some difficulty.

Cic.

--
==========================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
==========================================


YAPH May 31st 09 07:18 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On Sun, 31 May 2009 11:33:18 +0100, Peter wrote:

I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches


The way I've done it in the past is to cut through as far as possible in
two places about a foot apart, then cut down the line of the pipe to join
up the ends of the cuts, so you take out a sort of curved rectangular
section. Then you can get the angle grinder in to complete the cuts
through to the back of the pipe.

Do wear a mask: something about cutting cast iron (or maybe what's coating
the inside of the pipe!) is really nasty if you get it in your nostrils.

And do make sure the cast iron section above the cut is very adequately
supported! Really you should remove the iron pipe above the cut
(carefully! - it's extremely heavy) and continue in plastic to the top of
the stack.

Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


If you're lucky you may find a plastic push-fit joint will seal onto the
CI, but generally I'd be prepared to get one of those thick rubber sleeves
with jubilee clips to bridge metal to plastic.


--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

Never believe anyone who claims to be a liar

John Rumm June 1st 09 01:23 AM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
Peter wrote:
I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a sort
of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way. (for
direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor connections.
Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


If you can separate it at a joint, then it is easy enough to put plastic
into an old cast iron collar.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

The Medway Handyman June 1st 09 09:21 AM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
John Rumm wrote:
Peter wrote:
I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie
make a sort of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an
easier way. (for direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor
connections. Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.


If you can separate it at a joint, then it is easy enough to put
plastic into an old cast iron collar.


Does one need to get PP or involve BC for replacement of a soil pipe?


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Andy Dingley June 1st 09 12:20 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On 31 May, 11:33, "Peter" wrote:

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie make a sort
of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an easier way.


Ring it from the outside, but without breaking all the way through,
then tap it with a cold chisel at which point the (brittle) cast iron
cracks neatly. This avoids running a high-speed grinder disk (or "fan"
as they're known) through the Inner Contents Layer...

Cast iron grinds, saws, cracks neatly. Even belting it with a sledge
can be quite a neat way to dismantle it (with practice) and it doesn't
split past the joints. If you are using a hammer, then slipping a
wooden wedge under the pipe to be smashed stops loading the joint into
the next one. You don't even need to make the grinder grooves connect
all the way, if you just think about where the stress risers are
pointing and where it wants to crack when thumped.

John Rumm June 1st 09 10:15 PM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
The Medway Handyman wrote:
John Rumm wrote:
Peter wrote:
I am about to connect 4 inch waste from a new attic conversion to an
external cast iron one. Currently it rises to above roof level. Some
questions:-

As my angle grinder wont cut thro 4 inches should I cut twice ie
make a sort of inspection hole and hacksaw the back or is there an
easier way. (for direct connection at attic floor level)
Should I replace all to ground level or to existing 1st floor
connections. Will new plastic fit inside old cast iron joints.

If you can separate it at a joint, then it is easy enough to put
plastic into an old cast iron collar.


Does one need to get PP or involve BC for replacement of a soil pipe?


PP only if its listed I would expect. New connections to soil pipes
possibly ought to be notified - not sure about replacement.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

YAPH June 2nd 09 01:08 AM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 21:15:58 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

The Medway Handyman wrote:


Does one need to get PP or involve BC for replacement of a soil pipe?


PP only if its listed I would expect. New connections to soil pipes
possibly ought to be notified - not sure about replacement.


Pretty sure the BCO wouldn't be interested if it's like for like.

--
John Stumbles -- http://yaph.co.uk

Men are from Mars, Women are from Venus
and Pop Psychologists are from Uranus

Frank Erskine June 2nd 09 02:05 AM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On 1 Jun 2009 23:08:51 GMT, YAPH had this to say:

On Mon, 01 Jun 2009 21:15:58 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

The Medway Handyman wrote:


Does one need to get PP or involve BC for replacement of a soil pipe?


PP only if its listed I would expect. New connections to soil pipes
possibly ought to be notified - not sure about replacement.


Pretty sure the BCO wouldn't be interested if it's like for like.


Only if it's real like-for-like and not such as PVC for cast iron :-)
(especially for a listed or otherwise historic ("interesting")
building).

I was talking the other day to our LA's conservation officer. There
are several buildings in the city centre area which aren't listed, nor
do they justify listing individually, but his aim is to have the areas
around them designated as conservation areas so that some control can
be exercised over development/alteration of individual buildings.
Although I have a healthy disrespect in general for 'civic centre'
type people, I think he has some good ideas. I hope he has some
influence with councillor/cabinet types and the DoE or whatever it's
called this week.

--
Frank Erskine
Sunderland

John Stumbles June 2nd 09 02:21 AM

Cutting a cast iron waste pipe
 
On Tue, 02 Jun 2009 01:05:27 +0100, Frank Erskine wrote:

Only if it's real like-for-like and not such as PVC for cast iron :-)
(especially for a listed or otherwise historic ("interesting")
building).


Still wouldn't be the BCO though, would it? It'd be the CO?

/pedantic :-)


--
John Stumbles


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