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Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap



 
 
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  #1  
Old May 11th 09, 06:37 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

My kitchen sink tap:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg

I managed to get the cold tap's chromed collar off by wrapping masking
tape around it, gripping it hard with a mole wrench and unscrewing it
anticlockwise with considerable force. It seems to be a rubbish design
with dissimilar metals that had corroded the screw threads together,
despite being fitted just 4 years ago.

The next bit is defeating me so far. I can't get the brass whatsit out to
change the washer. I've tried turning it both anticlockwise and clockwise
with enough force to risk ripping the whole thing from the sink. Any
suggestions? Are these normally unscrewed anticlockwise? I'd rather fix
it than replace the whole tap if I can.

--
Dave Farrance
Ads
  #2  
Old May 11th 09, 08:41 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,323
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg

I managed to get the cold tap's chromed collar off by wrapping masking
tape around it, gripping it hard with a mole wrench and unscrewing it
anticlockwise with considerable force. It seems to be a rubbish
design with dissimilar metals that had corroded the screw threads
together, despite being fitted just 4 years ago.

The next bit is defeating me so far. I can't get the brass whatsit
out to change the washer. I've tried turning it both anticlockwise
and clockwise with enough force to risk ripping the whole thing from
the sink. Any suggestions? Are these normally unscrewed
anticlockwise? I'd rather fix it than replace the whole tap if I can.


Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g. undoes anti
clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with limescale.
You need to try & find a way of holding the body still while you apply
sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to give plenty of leverage
is a help.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


  #3  
Old May 11th 09, 11:15 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,837
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap


"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg

I managed to get the cold tap's chromed collar off by wrapping masking
tape around it, gripping it hard with a mole wrench and unscrewing it
anticlockwise with considerable force. It seems to be a rubbish
design with dissimilar metals that had corroded the screw threads
together, despite being fitted just 4 years ago.

The next bit is defeating me so far. I can't get the brass whatsit
out to change the washer. I've tried turning it both anticlockwise
and clockwise with enough force to risk ripping the whole thing from
the sink. Any suggestions? Are these normally unscrewed
anticlockwise? I'd rather fix it than replace the whole tap if I can.


Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g. undoes anti
clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with limescale.
You need to try & find a way of holding the body still while you apply
sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to give plenty of
leverage is a help.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be far
better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people use them for
plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably get it
moving.



  #4  
Old May 12th 09, 12:10 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,490
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John wrote:


Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be far
better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people use
them for plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably
get it moving.


I totally agree!

Also, unless I'm mistaken, the picture of the tap - still with its operating
lever in place on the other side - suggests to me that it's a quarter-turn
tap with a ceramic cartridge inside, rather than a multi-turn tap with a
conventional washer. If I'm right, the OP will need a new cartridge - not a
new washer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


  #5  
Old May 12th 09, 12:29 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,323
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

John wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg

I managed to get the cold tap's chromed collar off by wrapping
masking tape around it, gripping it hard with a mole wrench and
unscrewing it anticlockwise with considerable force. It seems to
be a rubbish design with dissimilar metals that had corroded the
screw threads together, despite being fitted just 4 years ago.

The next bit is defeating me so far. I can't get the brass whatsit
out to change the washer. I've tried turning it both anticlockwise
and clockwise with enough force to risk ripping the whole thing from
the sink. Any suggestions? Are these normally unscrewed
anticlockwise? I'd rather fix it than replace the whole tap if I
can.


Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g.
undoes anti clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with
limescale. You need to try & find a way of holding the body still
while you apply sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to
give plenty of leverage is a help.




Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be far
better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people use
them for plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??


Because if you had ever done the job on a regular basis you would know there
isn't a standard size - it varies with manufacturer. Ring spanners don't
fit all head gears. Good quality adjustables do.

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably
get it moving.


Indeed.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


  #6  
Old May 12th 09, 12:29 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,323
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John wrote:


Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be far
better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people use
them for plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably
get it moving.


I totally agree!

Also, unless I'm mistaken, the picture of the tap - still with its
operating lever in place on the other side - suggests to me that it's
a quarter-turn tap with a ceramic cartridge inside, rather than a
multi-turn tap with a conventional washer. If I'm right, the OP will
need a new cartridge - not a new washer.


Disagree about the spanner, agree about the cartridge.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk


  #7  
Old May 12th 09, 09:33 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,837
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap


"The Medway Handyman" wrote in message
m...
John wrote:
"The Medway Handyman" wrote in
message m...
Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg

I managed to get the cold tap's chromed collar off by wrapping
masking tape around it, gripping it hard with a mole wrench and
unscrewing it anticlockwise with considerable force. It seems to
be a rubbish design with dissimilar metals that had corroded the
screw threads together, despite being fitted just 4 years ago.

The next bit is defeating me so far. I can't get the brass whatsit
out to change the washer. I've tried turning it both anticlockwise
and clockwise with enough force to risk ripping the whole thing from
the sink. Any suggestions? Are these normally unscrewed
anticlockwise? I'd rather fix it than replace the whole tap if I
can.

Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g.
undoes anti clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with
limescale. You need to try & find a way of holding the body still
while you apply sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to
give plenty of leverage is a help.




Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be far
better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people use
them for plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??


Because if you had ever done the job on a regular basis you would know
there isn't a standard size - it varies with manufacturer. Ring spanners
don't fit all head gears. Good quality adjustables do.

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably
get it moving.


Indeed.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk



Grease the thread when refitting any tap - you won't have a problem in the
future.


  #8  
Old May 12th 09, 10:53 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 2,490
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
The Medway Handyman wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John wrote:


Why recommend an "Adjustable" when a proper ring spanner would be
far better. An engineer wouldn't use an adjustable so why do people
use them for plumbing tasks when there is a perfectly good hexagon??

A sharp whack on the spanner (in the right direction) would probably
get it moving.


I totally agree!

Also, unless I'm mistaken, the picture of the tap - still with its
operating lever in place on the other side - suggests to me that it's
a quarter-turn tap with a ceramic cartridge inside, rather than a
multi-turn tap with a conventional washer. If I'm right, the OP will
need a new cartridge - not a new washer.


Disagree about the spanner, agree about the cartridge.


I agree that different taps may require different spanner sizes - but I
would have expected a 'Handyman' to have a full set of ring spanners - I
certainly have for DIY/car maintenance use.

The thing about a ring spanner is that it's far less likely to slip - and
mangle the corners - than an adjustable is - specially when you need to hit
it with a hammer.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!


  #9  
Old May 12th 09, 06:36 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 13
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap

"The Medway Handyman" wrote:

Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg


Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g. undoes anti
clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with limescale.
You need to try & find a way of holding the body still while you apply
sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to give plenty of leverage
is a help.


Thanks. For bracing, I discovered that my largest adjustable spanner was
just right to wedge between the flange on the base of the tap and the
"arms" of the tap.

http://i44.tinypic.com/21jwvt1.jpg

The left tap was the worst since I had to lift the spanner on the brass
nut away from the bracing spanner. I ended up standing on the sink
surround to get enough leverage.

A replacement pack of two brass cartridges, "ceramic tap glands",
identical to the originals, cost 17 from B&Q. Seems that "changing a
washer" can be expensive these days.

After completing the job, I found that I could take one of the old ones
apart. The two ceramic plates with the quarter-holes, appear to be held
together mainly by water pressure. It seems to me that if a little
limescale got between the plates, that would be the reason that the tap
dripped. Maybe if I'd taken it apart, cleaned it and reassembled it, that
would have been a sufficient repair.

http://i39.tinypic.com/15rxuer.jpg

--
Dave Farrance
  #10  
Old May 12th 09, 06:51 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,837
Default Replacing washers on monoblock mixer tap


"Dave Farrance" wrote in message
...
"The Medway Handyman" wrote:

Dave Farrance wrote:
My kitchen sink tap:
http://i42.tinypic.com/2dmcpw5.jpg


Called head gear or jumper assembly. Normal screw thread e.g. undoes anti
clock.

They can be a right little bugger to undo, they get stuck with limescale.
You need to try & find a way of holding the body still while you apply
sufficient force. Large good quality adjustable to give plenty of
leverage
is a help.


Thanks. For bracing, I discovered that my largest adjustable spanner was
just right to wedge between the flange on the base of the tap and the
"arms" of the tap.

http://i44.tinypic.com/21jwvt1.jpg

The left tap was the worst since I had to lift the spanner on the brass
nut away from the bracing spanner. I ended up standing on the sink
surround to get enough leverage.

A replacement pack of two brass cartridges, "ceramic tap glands",
identical to the originals, cost 17 from B&Q. Seems that "changing a
washer" can be expensive these days.

After completing the job, I found that I could take one of the old ones
apart. The two ceramic plates with the quarter-holes, appear to be held
together mainly by water pressure. It seems to me that if a little
limescale got between the plates, that would be the reason that the tap
dripped. Maybe if I'd taken it apart, cleaned it and reassembled it, that
would have been a sufficient repair.

http://i39.tinypic.com/15rxuer.jpg

--
Dave Farrance


Hope you greased the threads to make it easy to strip down next time.


 




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