As the ceramic floor tiles were fairly expensive I decided not to tile
the complete kitchen floor but just to tile up to the front legs of the
base units, locating the plinth on top of the tiles.

I have now realised that the concrete floor varies in level by 7mm over
the 4 metre length of a row of base units which means that I will have
to either

i) level the floor or try to adjust the level with varying thickness of
tile adhesive

ii) scribe and cut the lower edge of the plinth to match the varying
height of the tiled floor

iii) fit the base units and plinth and tile up to the face of the
plinths.

i) seems to be a lot of hard work or a lot of adhesive/self levelling
compound, ii) a bit fiddly, iii) may make it awkward to remove the
plinths at some time in the future in the unlikely* event that I need to
gain access.
* I am cutting access holes in the back panels wherever there may be a
need to get to service valves and power outlets.

Grateful for your thoughts.
--
Robert

On Fri, 24 Apr 2009 23:07:40 +0100, robert wrote:

ii) scribe and cut the lower edge of the plinth to match the varying
height of the tiled floor

Bear in mind the plinth does not have to be flush to the underside of the
units, it will be hidden by the overhang. Also that the plinth is probably
chipboard or MDF, that won't take kindly to repeated wetting from the
floor, from splashes or cleaning. Keep the bottom of the plinth a couple
of mm above the floor.

The prefectionist would scribe to each tile and grout line individually. I
think I'd just do a few spot heights along the lenght of the plinth and
cut to those, ensuring the 2mm gap.

--
Cheers
Dave.

robert coughed up some electrons that declared:


As the ceramic floor tiles were fairly expensive I decided not to tile
the complete kitchen floor but just to tile up to the front legs of the
base units, locating the plinth on top of the tiles.

I have now realised that the concrete floor varies in level by 7mm over
the 4 metre length of a row of base units which means that I will have
to either

i) level the floor or try to adjust the level with varying thickness of
tile adhesive

ii) scribe and cut the lower edge of the plinth to match the varying
height of the tiled floor

iii) fit the base units and plinth and tile up to the face of the
plinths.

i) seems to be a lot of hard work or a lot of adhesive/self levelling
compound, ii) a bit fiddly, iii) may make it awkward to remove the
plinths at some time in the future in the unlikely* event that I need to
gain access.
* I am cutting access holes in the back panels wherever there may be a
need to get to service valves and power outlets.

Grateful for your thoughts.

Tell me about it... Mine varies 20mm (from -8 to +14 relative to the hall)
and in complex and random ways.

I've bought 8 25kg bags of latex levelling scunge and my room is nearly 6m x
4m. You might get away with a couple of bags, depending on how much of the
floor you need to do (4m long - but is there more - and how wide?)

Do you just have a localised hollow - or is it utterly weird?

A hollow would be fairly straightforward - mix latex screed, pour in hollow,
scrape flat with long straight piece of wood or metal, using the higher
outside edges as a reference.

I'm having to make guide rails for mine, and do it in strips, because there
is nothing to sight it against. Ali channel came today.

Cheers

Tim

robert wrote:
As the ceramic floor tiles were fairly expensive I decided not to tile
the complete kitchen floor but just to tile up to the front legs of
the base units, locating the plinth on top of the tiles.

I have now realised that the concrete floor varies in level by 7mm
over the 4 metre length of a row of base units which means that I
will have to either

i) level the floor or try to adjust the level with varying thickness
of tile adhesive

ii) scribe and cut the lower edge of the plinth to match the varying
height of the tiled floor

TBH if the difference is only 7mm, cut the entire plinth to the smallest
dimension so its an easy fit. Butt the plinth down to the floor, so the gap
is at the top of the plinth.

Nobody can actually see the gap at the top, unless they are laying on the
floor - in which case they are so drunk they won't care.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message , The Medway
Handyman writes
robert wrote:
As the ceramic floor tiles were fairly expensive I decided not to tile
the complete kitchen floor but just to tile up to the front legs of
the base units, locating the plinth on top of the tiles.

I have now realised that the concrete floor varies in level by 7mm
over the 4 metre length of a row of base units which means that I
will have to either

i) level the floor or try to adjust the level with varying thickness
of tile adhesive

ii) scribe and cut the lower edge of the plinth to match the varying
height of the tiled floor

TBH if the difference is only 7mm, cut the entire plinth to the smallest
dimension so its an easy fit. Butt the plinth down to the floor, so the gap
is at the top of the plinth.

Nobody can actually see the gap at the top, unless they are laying on the
floor - in which case they are so drunk they won't care.

Thanks to all for the advice. The problem (which I should have made
clear in my original post) is that the floor is slightly humped so that
the plinth would sit at floor level in the middle but have a visible gap
below it at either end.

--
Robert