[T i m]

Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

eg, If we assume the case is sealed (it isn't but doesn't have much in
the way of airflow) then the heat coming off the Pi to the inside of
the case would be direct in the form of radiation ... and indirect by
the way of conduction from the warm air, that distributed /
transferred via convection to the inside of the case (and hence via
conduction to the outside etc).

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

I'm pretty sure the Pi would survive irrespective as I believe it has
the ability to clock-throttle when it overheats but equally if you can
help it run 'cool' it will run at full speed for (and possibly last a
bit) longer?

I did consider making up a heat-pipe (a 'U' shaped copper strip)
allowing me to conduct heat from the main chip to the case but that
requires a bit more 'engineering'. ;-)

I've ordered the one of the little 3 x heatsink kits that may add a
little thermal capacity (to the chips) and the ability to conduct the
heat away from the chips themselves more efficiently but that may only
slow the raise in temperature of the chips but could increase the
speed the inside of the case is heated, especially if it runs longer
before throttling?

Anyone confirm the practical science behind it all please?

Cheers, T i m

[Martin Brown[_2_]]

On 17/04/2018 13:50, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

There is some difference notably shiny metallic surfaces are terrible
radiators of thermal IR at ambient temperatures. Almost any colour of
matt paint is black in the thermal IR band. How much difference it makes
on a plastic box which is intrinsically a poor conductor I don't know

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

It will probably help improve things by painting it black. I once built
a linear 12v PSU using the then new 78xx series linear regulators and it
went into thermal foldback mode when put into a shiny aluminium box.
Painting the shiny metal matt black solved the problem completely - it
still ran warm but nowhere near going into self protection mode.

I'm pretty sure the Pi would survive irrespective as I believe it has
the ability to clock-throttle when it overheats but equally if you can
help it run 'cool' it will run at full speed for (and possibly last a
bit) longer?

I did consider making up a heat-pipe (a 'U' shaped copper strip)
allowing me to conduct heat from the main chip to the case but that
requires a bit more 'engineering'. ;-)

I've ordered the one of the little 3 x heatsink kits that may add a
little thermal capacity (to the chips) and the ability to conduct the
heat away from the chips themselves more efficiently but that may only
slow the raise in temperature of the chips but could increase the
speed the inside of the case is heated, especially if it runs longer
before throttling?

Anyone confirm the practical science behind it all please?

Arranging it so that there is a vertical path and warm air rises may
help to encourage it to stay cool.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[T i m]

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:06:56 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 17/04/2018 13:50, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

There is some difference notably shiny metallic surfaces are terrible
radiators of thermal IR at ambient temperatures.

I hadn't really considered how will the case would re-radiate the
heat.

Almost any colour of
matt paint is black in the thermal IR band.

Ok.

How much difference it makes
on a plastic box which is intrinsically a poor conductor I don't know

Sure, but this is ally so I thought it might be more predictable etc?

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

It will probably help improve things by painting it black.

So from what you said above that means inside and out?

I once built
a linear 12v PSU using the then new 78xx series linear regulators and it
went into thermal foldback mode when put into a shiny aluminium box.

(A bit like I have here etc).

Painting the shiny metal matt black solved the problem completely - it
still ran warm but nowhere near going into self protection mode.

Interesting.

I'm pretty sure the Pi would survive irrespective as I believe it has
the ability to clock-throttle when it overheats but equally if you can
help it run 'cool' it will run at full speed for (and possibly last a
bit) longer?

I did consider making up a heat-pipe (a 'U' shaped copper strip)
allowing me to conduct heat from the main chip to the case but that
requires a bit more 'engineering'. ;-)

I've ordered the one of the little 3 x heatsink kits that may add a
little thermal capacity (to the chips) and the ability to conduct the
heat away from the chips themselves more efficiently but that may only
slow the raise in temperature of the chips but could increase the
speed the inside of the case is heated, especially if it runs longer
before throttling?

Anyone confirm the practical science behind it all please?

Arranging it so that there is a vertical path and warm air rises may
help to encourage it to stay cool.

That is my normal solution with PC's and the like but in this case I
was sorta interested to see if I could 'get away' with it by just
changing the colour etc.

I was sorta working from the idea that many laptop 'brick' type PSU's
are in sealed / plastic enclosures ... often get warm or even fairly
hot without much in the way of negative consequences (what feels 'hot'
to us isn't generally that hot for most electronics etc).

I was just trying to remind myself of the science behind the ability
of a surface to reflect or absorb heat and if it was a function of
it's colour or not, especially when the heat wasn't being radiated in
the visible light spectrum?

Cheers, T i m

[Brian Gaff]

Its a shame these devices do not have a thermal mounting point to enable the
metal case to cool it.
I think from experience matt black paint does insulate but can also get hot
in itself. To be of any use it needs to be part of the material and share
its thermal qualities.

Brian

--
----- -
This newsgroup posting comes to you directly from...
The Sofa of Brian Gaff...

Blind user, so no pictures please!
"T i m" wrote in message
...
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

eg, If we assume the case is sealed (it isn't but doesn't have much in
the way of airflow) then the heat coming off the Pi to the inside of
the case would be direct in the form of radiation ... and indirect by
the way of conduction from the warm air, that distributed /
transferred via convection to the inside of the case (and hence via
conduction to the outside etc).

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

I'm pretty sure the Pi would survive irrespective as I believe it has
the ability to clock-throttle when it overheats but equally if you can
help it run 'cool' it will run at full speed for (and possibly last a
bit) longer?

I did consider making up a heat-pipe (a 'U' shaped copper strip)
allowing me to conduct heat from the main chip to the case but that
requires a bit more 'engineering'. ;-)

I've ordered the one of the little 3 x heatsink kits that may add a
little thermal capacity (to the chips) and the ability to conduct the
heat away from the chips themselves more efficiently but that may only
slow the raise in temperature of the chips but could increase the
speed the inside of the case is heated, especially if it runs longer
before throttling?

Anyone confirm the practical science behind it all please?

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:33:41 +0100, "Brian Gaff"
wrote:

Its a shame these devices do not have a thermal mounting point to enable the
metal case to cool it.

Agreed Brian but they probably don't (yet anyway) because the
designers consider it unnecessary?

The thing is I've not read anything about how (thermally) restrictive
an enclosure you can put such things in but am trying to use common
sense / experience to not make it worse than it need be.

I think from experience matt black paint does insulate but can also get hot
in itself.

Yes, if you had two sheets of ally and pained one matt black and left
one polished silver, I'm guessing the matt black one would get hotter
if you shone an incandescent spotlight equally across both. I'm not
sure there would be any difference if you blew a fan heater across
both or touched both with a clothes iron, so it's only radiated (not
convected or conducted heat).

To be of any use it needs to be part of the material and share
its thermal qualities.

I agree, that would be the best solution but conscious it may be
overkill in this situation (even as part of just experimenting etc).

Cheers, T i m

[Martin Brown[_2_]]

On 17/04/2018 14:33, T i m wrote:
On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:06:56 +0100, Martin Brown
wrote:

On 17/04/2018 13:50, T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

There is some difference notably shiny metallic surfaces are terrible
radiators of thermal IR at ambient temperatures.

I hadn't really considered how will the case would re-radiate the
heat.

Almost any colour of
matt paint is black in the thermal IR band.

Ok.

How much difference it makes
on a plastic box which is intrinsically a poor conductor I don't know

Sure, but this is ally so I thought it might be more predictable etc?

If you can connect the aluminium box to the heatsinks then that is the
best way to get the heat to the outside.

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

It will probably help improve things by painting it black.

So from what you said above that means inside and out?

I once built
a linear 12v PSU using the then new 78xx series linear regulators and it
went into thermal foldback mode when put into a shiny aluminium box.

(A bit like I have here etc).

Painting the shiny metal matt black solved the problem completely - it
still ran warm but nowhere near going into self protection mode.

Interesting.

I was surprised at the time that it made such a difference. When an
object becomes around 30C above ambient temperature the radiation losses
start to become significant (scale like T^4 in absolute temperature).

Anyone confirm the practical science behind it all please?

Arranging it so that there is a vertical path and warm air rises may
help to encourage it to stay cool.

That is my normal solution with PC's and the like but in this case I
was sorta interested to see if I could 'get away' with it by just
changing the colour etc.

I was sorta working from the idea that many laptop 'brick' type PSU's
are in sealed / plastic enclosures ... often get warm or even fairly
hot without much in the way of negative consequences (what feels 'hot'
to us isn't generally that hot for most electronics etc).

Forced air ventilation is the other way to keep things cool.

I was just trying to remind myself of the science behind the ability
of a surface to reflect or absorb heat and if it was a function of
it's colour or not, especially when the heat wasn't being radiated in
the visible light spectrum?

There are some very cute designer materials that are capable of cooling
when placing in sunlight under a clear blue sky. They reflect most of
the visible light incident from the sun whilst radiating incredibly well
in the thermal band IR.

http://newsroom.uts.edu.au/news/2015...being-hot-city

Priced at the unobtanium level at present but it is an interesting
technology if a cheap plastic film version can be manufactured.

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

[Andy Burns[_13_]]

Brian Gaff wrote:

Its a shame these devices do not have a thermal mounting point to enable the
metal case to cool it.

would get in the way of the expansion connectors (not that everyone uses
those)

[Theo[_3_]]

T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

eg, If we assume the case is sealed (it isn't but doesn't have much in
the way of airflow) then the heat coming off the Pi to the inside of
the case would be direct in the form of radiation ... and indirect by
the way of conduction from the warm air, that distributed /
transferred via convection to the inside of the case (and hence via
conduction to the outside etc).

ISTM that if you have a closed system, all that matters is the flux to the
outside. The nature of construction of the closed system will affect
distribution of heat within the system, but fundamentally it's the amount of
heat you can get rid of that matters.

Here I'm modelling the system as $hot_interior_stuff surrounded by some
kind of case shell. That shell is not convecting, because it's a solid.
There is no air convection through it, because it's sealed.

So the overall thermal resistance of the shell is:

a) absorption of heat from $stuff to shell
b) conduction of heat through shell
c) radiation of heat from shell to environment

(I'll declare convection, conduction of heat from the shell to the
environment as orthogonal for now)

I think I'd agree that a black interior would absorb more internally radiated
heat, but you'd achieve a lower resistance by conduction directly from
$stuff to the shell.

So I think you maximise by colouring it black for a) and c), but you don't
want to make b) worse by painting it. For instance, a black anodising layer
would be very thin. If that's not an option, the thinnest paint you can
find followed by scraping off interior paint to achieve a better conductive
interface might be appropriate.

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

I suspect the difference in absorption a) based on
interior colour is going to be outweighed by adding additional shell layers
hindering b). However you'd really need to run numbers to find out.

Theo

[T i m]

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 15:06:09 +0100, Andy Burns
wrote:

Brian Gaff wrote:

Its a shame these devices do not have a thermal mounting point to enable the
metal case to cool it.

would get in the way of the expansion connectors (not that everyone uses
those)

Given that we aren't talking about 'loads' of thermal energy here, my
idea was a 'U' of copper strip with one outer face of the flat part of
the U on the chip and the opposite side bolted to the underside of the
case top. Being formed into a (as long as practical) 'U' should
provide a modicum of flexibility and the thickness would be a
compromise between thermal conductivity and allowing said 'give'.

Maybe even brass 'shim' material formed into said 'U' would be better
at conducting the heat away and to the case than the air would with
convection?

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On 17 Apr 2018 15:12:08 +0100 (BST), Theo
wrote:

T i m wrote:
Hi all,

I have some neat extruded ally cases for my std Raspberry Pi's and I
was about to put my new 3B+ in one and wondered, because it seems to
get the warmest of all the Pi's so far ... if the interior finish
(shiny / matt) / colour (white to matt black) would make any
difference to how efficiently the case would re-radiate the (Pi) heat?

eg, If we assume the case is sealed (it isn't but doesn't have much in
the way of airflow) then the heat coming off the Pi to the inside of
the case would be direct in the form of radiation ... and indirect by
the way of conduction from the warm air, that distributed /
transferred via convection to the inside of the case (and hence via
conduction to the outside etc).

ISTM that if you have a closed system, all that matters is the flux to the
outside. The nature of construction of the closed system will affect
distribution of heat within the system, but fundamentally it's the amount of
heat you can get rid of that matters.

Agreed.

Here I'm modelling the system as $hot_interior_stuff surrounded by some
kind of case shell. That shell is not convecting, because it's a solid.
There is no air convection through it, because it's sealed.

Correct.

So the overall thermal resistance of the shell is:

a) absorption of heat from $stuff to shell

Check.

b) conduction of heat through shell

Check.

c) radiation of heat from shell to environment

Check. I had considered the use of an external finned heatsink to
increase the passive cooling *of* the case but wasn't sure if the case
itself would typically be better at re-radiating the hat from the case
than it might be accepting it in the first place (convection /
radiation).

(I'll declare convection, conduction of heat from the shell to the
environment as orthogonal for now)

Ok.

I think I'd agree that a black interior would absorb more internally radiated
heat,

Ok.

but you'd achieve a lower resistance by conduction directly from
$stuff to the shell.

Agreed.

So I think you maximise by colouring it black for a) and c), but you don't
want to make b) worse by painting it. For instance, a black anodising layer
would be very thin.

Agreed.

If that's not an option, the thinnest paint you can
find

That's why I considered a spray acid-etch primer (spray likely to be
thinner than brush on) and a light spray of matt black.

followed by scraping off interior paint to achieve a better conductive
interface might be appropriate.

Unfortunately the RPi PCB is held off the bottom of the case by two
brass standoffs on one side and the HDMI, uUSB and audio ports poking
though the case on the other (so the metal shells of the HDMI and USB
/ Ethernet ports would slightly help conduct internal heat to the ally
case).

So, the case has a slightly shot blasted / gold anodised finish
throughout and I was wondering if painting the inside matt black (acid
etch spray primer and matt black spray) would have any cooling
advantage at all or would it in fact actually make matters worse
because the paint would act like a thermal barrier?

I suspect the difference in absorption a) based on
interior colour is going to be outweighed by adding additional shell layers
hindering b).

And why I thought I had better ask the scientists here. ;-)

However you'd really need to run numbers to find out.

I have been reading up on some of this and apparently the internal
temperature sensor of the Pi isn't that accurate so some sort of
external (thermocouple / temp sensor) might be required.

That said, basically I was just looking to see if there was something
easy I could do before I box this Pi up in it's case that might help
the thermal situation, preferring things to run cold rather than hot.

Alternatively I could perforate the top and bottom of the case but
there isn't much room around the PCB for any airflow. Perforating the
sides could allow airflow across the top of the board at least, as
long as I keep the case on it's side?

I do have a couple of small 5V fans and some have powered them from
the GPIO pins but others have suggested the (electrical) noise may not
help the stability of these higher clocked models. Nothing stopping me
running the fan from the external PSU though (that might isolate the
noise to some degree) but I would prefer it to be a KISS / silent
solution.

I'll lave a look to see what sort of temperature monitoring you can
get on the Pi / Raspbian and then run it open / enclosed and see what
happens.

Cheers, T i m

[Thomas Prufer]

On 17 Apr 2018 15:12:08 +0100 (BST), Theo
wrote:

So I think you maximise by colouring it black for a) and c), but you don't
want to make b) worse by painting it. For instance, a black anodising layer
would be very thin. If that's not an option, the thinnest paint you can
find followed by scraping off interior paint to achieve a better conductive
interface might be appropriate.

Or fill it with an insulating liquid. This means that all the heat transfer runs
via conduction and convection, and the entire case would be at a similar
temperature. (I'm guessing that inside radiation would lead to a hot spot, and
that this would be less pronounced if the inside were liquid-filled.)

If you think this is a silly idea: Maybe, but it's done by PC and Raspi
overclockers, --"overclock oil".

If you think that a heated sealed container of oil with wires going through
rubber grommets is a potential oil spill, you are probably (oil) spot on.


Thomas Prufer

[T i m]

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 08:24:47 +0200, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

On 17 Apr 2018 15:12:08 +0100 (BST), Theo
wrote:

So I think you maximise by colouring it black for a) and c), but you don't
want to make b) worse by painting it. For instance, a black anodising layer
would be very thin. If that's not an option, the thinnest paint you can
find followed by scraping off interior paint to achieve a better conductive
interface might be appropriate.

Or fill it with an insulating liquid.

Funnily enough I'd already thought of that one Thomas. ;-)

This means that all the heat transfer runs
via conduction and convection, and the entire case would be at a similar
temperature. (I'm guessing that inside radiation would lead to a hot spot, and
that this would be less pronounced if the inside were liquid-filled.)

Quite. Rather than filling the existing case I could just drop the
bare RPi into a container filled with said liquid, that way I wouldn't
have to worry about seals etc.

If you think this is a silly idea: Maybe, but it's done by PC and Raspi
overclockers, --"overclock oil".

No, I saw a CRT being run in a liquid years ago and aren't the Cray
CPU's (directly) liquid cooled?

If you think that a heated sealed container of oil with wires going through
rubber grommets is a potential oil spill, you are probably (oil) spot on.

;-)

I'm still trying to find a slot to setup and run some thermal tests,
firstly with the RPi just out and open, then with it in the metal case
as-is and then with the little heatsink kit and lastly with the GPIO
slot uncovered.

The thing is I know air has density and so there may be a limitation
re how small a hole or slot that would be of any use re convected air
cooling (from within the case).

A mate of mine found air doesn't always adapt to 'scale' when he built
an RC submarine and felt the holes in the deck looked too big and were
out of scale. So he filled them and re-drilled the deck with the
correct scale holes, only to find that the air bubbles wouldn't pass
though the smaller holes so the thing maintained too much buoyancy
because of the trapped air ... and wouldn't submerge!

Cheers, T i m

[Rob Morley]

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 08:28:41 +0100
T i m wrote:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 08:24:47 +0200, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

Or fill it with an insulating liquid.

Funnily enough I'd already thought of that one Thomas. ;-)

Me too, but I thought it would be too much hassle if you wanted to
access the board, e.g. the GPIO pins. :-)

[Rob Morley]

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 15:18:56 +0100
T i m wrote:

Maybe even brass 'shim' material formed into said 'U' would be better
at conducting the heat away and to the case than the air would with
convection?

I suspect heatsinks fixed to the chips with thermal adhesive stand a
better chance of making good thermal contact than a flexible strip that
you can only glue at one end, even though they rely mostly on the air
inside the case to lose heat.

[Rob Morley]

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:48:31 +0100
T i m wrote:

To be of any use it needs to be part of the material and share
its thermal qualities.

I agree, that would be the best solution but conscious it may be
overkill in this situation (even as part of just experimenting etc).

Perhaps it's time to have a go at home anodising? Because that would
probably put the "black" in very good thermal contact with the alloy
surface.

[T i m]

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 17:04:58 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 14:48:31 +0100
T i m wrote:

To be of any use it needs to be part of the material and share
its thermal qualities.

I agree, that would be the best solution but conscious it may be
overkill in this situation (even as part of just experimenting etc).

Perhaps it's time to have a go at home anodising?

Hmm, whilst I like the idea of that I think it may be a step too far
in this case. ;-)

Because that would
probably put the "black" in very good thermal contact with the alloy
surface.

Absolutely ... and I don't know why they weren't made in black in the
first place.

That said, I felt my OMV RPi server yesterday and that's been on for
weeks and the same case felt pretty cool. That said, being just a file
server means the CPU is rarely heavily loaded or loaded for long
periods and mine is a RPi2, not a 3B+ ... displaying a video for 2
hours?

*If* matt black (anodising) would be the best finish in and outside
the case for thermal reasons, I may ask the manufacturers if they can
supply them in that finish ... or a local anodiser if they could
re-coat some for me?

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 16:57:36 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Apr 2018 15:18:56 +0100
T i m wrote:

Maybe even brass 'shim' material formed into said 'U' would be better
at conducting the heat away and to the case than the air would with
convection?

I suspect heatsinks fixed to the chips with thermal adhesive stand a
better chance of making good thermal contact than a flexible strip that
you can only glue at one end,

If I was to use a thermal epoxy to bond a 'heatpipe' to the main chip,
I would then bolt the other end to the inside of the case, also using
thermal compound.

even though they rely mostly on the air
inside the case to lose heat.

Quite, and then we are back to how well the case itself might relay
that heat out.

I was hoping the heatsinks would provide a little thermal inertia and
also a better chip-to-air transfer. More heat transferred into the air
within the case should make the air warmer (and the chip cooler) and
therefore the case may be then able to re-radiate more of that heat to
the outside world?

An external heatsink bolted to the outside of the case (and with
thermal paste) and with the heatsink fins arranged vertically re the
typical airflow should silently help to keep the case itself cool.

What about attaching a (matt black) heatsink to the *inside* of the
case (again, with paste or thermal glue) to increase the cases heat
absorption rate (and thermal mass as an aside)? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[T i m]

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 16:53:08 +0100, Rob Morley
wrote:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 08:28:41 +0100
T i m wrote:

On Wed, 18 Apr 2018 08:24:47 +0200, Thomas Prufer
wrote:

Or fill it with an insulating liquid.

Funnily enough I'd already thought of that one Thomas. ;-)

Me too, but I thought it would be too much hassle if you wanted to
access the board, e.g. the GPIO pins. :-)

As an aside ... I wonder what proportion of RPi users actually use
them to interface anything (using the GPIO pins)?

I have several RPi's and I've *never* used the GPIO pins for anything,
whereas I have used all the various i/o interfaces on all my Arduinos.

A mate bought me a BBC Micro:bit and after the Arduinos I found that
really complicated and confusing to use. ;-(

Cheers, T i m