[[email protected]]

Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article
,
wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

Absolutely nothing ever goes wrong so service access is always needed. I
reckon the life of a torbeck valve in a hard water area is no more than 10
years. However it's not a daily occurrence so assuming a silicone seal you
just cut through that to remove the worktop. Would make sense to have
service valves to the basin to make disconnecting that less painful.

EP

--
*The closest I ever got to a 4.0 in school was my blood alcohol content*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Grumps[_2_]]

wrote in message
...
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

We have one of those, or something very similar. The buttons we chose are
mounted in a rectangular chrome (effect) plastic plate which we've got
mounted directly above the cistern (a cut-out in the worktop). This plate
removes quite easily (it's spring clip mounted) and enables essential access
to the valve.
Alternatively, there are loose fitting cover panels that simply rest over a
cut-out in the worktop.
If your basin is only fixed to the worktop, then it would be possible to
remove the whole lot (after disconnecting the tap tails and waste). But
that'd be a pain.

[Rod]

wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP

Not familiar with that make/model. But the two we have are both fully
maintainable from the front - where there are removable panels. One
(make not remembered) specifically said that it only needs front access;
the other (Macdee) is similar and I am conviced it would be true for
that as well.

I used plastic pipe (Hep2O) for both - the flexibility of which might
make it easier to maintain than copper.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

[Grumps[_2_]]

"Rod" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP

Not familiar with that make/model. But the two we have are both fully
maintainable from the front - where there are removable panels. One (make
not remembered) specifically said that it only needs front access; the
other (Macdee) is similar and I am conviced it would be true for that as
well.

I used plastic pipe (Hep2O) for both - the flexibility of which might make
it easier to maintain than copper.

Your cistern has a removable front panel?

[Bruce[_4_]]

" wrote:

The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong".


Guy in bathroom shop speak with forked tongue. ;-)

[Rod]

Grumps wrote:
"Rod" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP
Not familiar with that make/model. But the two we have are both fully
maintainable from the front - where there are removable panels. One (make
not remembered) specifically said that it only needs front access; the
other (Macdee) is similar and I am conviced it would be true for that as
well.

I used plastic pipe (Hep2O) for both - the flexibility of which might make
it easier to maintain than copper.

Your cistern has a removable front panel?



Yes!!! The units into which they are fitted are what I was really
talking about! :-)

And it is work of moments to disconnect water supply and flush pipe and
remove cistern. But I think it might actually be possible to replace the
valve without even doing that. (I am not about to do it and take
photos... Oh sod it, here we go
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28826696@N03/2820560891/)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

[Grumps[_2_]]

"Rod" wrote in message
...
Grumps wrote:
"Rod" wrote in message
...
wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP
Not familiar with that make/model. But the two we have are both fully
maintainable from the front - where there are removable panels. One
(make not remembered) specifically said that it only needs front access;
the other (Macdee) is similar and I am conviced it would be true for
that as well.

I used plastic pipe (Hep2O) for both - the flexibility of which might
make it easier to maintain than copper.

Your cistern has a removable front panel?

Yes!!! The units into which they are fitted are what I was really talking
about! :-)

And it is work of moments to disconnect water supply and flush pipe and
remove cistern. But I think it might actually be possible to replace the
valve without even doing that. (I am not about to do it and take photos...
Oh sod it, here we go
http://www.flickr.com/photos/28826696@N03/2820560891/)

Cool (as my kids would say).
Is the water level behind that blue cover?

[[email protected]]

Thanks,
I think Rod has the idea.
If I mount the two- button flush (fitted on a removable plate) into
the worktop, then I can get into the top of the cistern via its top
access fairly easily without removing the sink. (It doesn't have side
access).
The issue is that it ain't all that obvious and the bathroom shop man
didn't have an answer even as I took him to a display model and asked
him how he'd get to the valve! The push buttons were fitted on the
face of his fitted unit, so removing it would only take you to the
blank side of the cistern.

EP.

[Dave Liquorice[_2_]]

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:20:07 +0100, Grumps wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28826696@N03/2820560891/)

Cool (as my kids would say). Is the water level behind that blue cover?

The vertical one I doubt it that just clips in at the top and the screws
are missing... It's difficult to tell but I suspect the water level is
just below where the tank opens out to full size. The water inlet has to
be above the water level by an inch or so, look to the right.

--
Cheers
Dave.

[Rod]

Dave Liquorice wrote:
On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:20:07 +0100, Grumps wrote:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/28826696@N03/2820560891/)
Cool (as my kids would say). Is the water level behind that blue cover?

The vertical one I doubt it that just clips in at the top and the screws
are missing... It's difficult to tell but I suspect the water level is
just below where the tank opens out to full size. The water inlet has to
be above the water level by an inch or so, look to the right.


Bear in mind that I removed the worktop to get that photo! If I had ever
fixed that properly, it would not have been possible to see the top blue
panel.

The top panel and the front panel are interchangeable - you screw one in
and the other just clips. So you could have the panel with the hole for
the pneumatic thingy on top *or* at the front. In either case, you would
be able to get at the valve through the clip-on blue panel.

The front panel (as I have fitted it) really seems just to prevent
moisture, spray, flies, anything else from transferring between the
interior of the cistern and the inside of the cupboard. Hence,
relatively little dust or fungal blackness in the picture.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

[Rod]

wrote:
Thanks,
I think Rod has the idea.
If I mount the two- button flush (fitted on a removable plate) into
the worktop, then I can get into the top of the cistern via its top
access fairly easily without removing the sink. (It doesn't have side
access).
The issue is that it ain't all that obvious and the bathroom shop man
didn't have an answer even as I took him to a display model and asked
him how he'd get to the valve! The push buttons were fitted on the
face of his fitted unit, so removing it would only take you to the
blank side of the cistern.

EP.

See my other post!

Not 100% sure I have fully understood your problem, but if what I have
posted helps, I am happy.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

[The Medway Handyman]

wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong".

Did his nose get bigger when he said that? Did he promise that the cheque
was in the post?

I've found two examples where cisterns have been boxed in & tiled over!
People are somewhat dismayed when you tell them the tiles will have to come
off to repair the cistern.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
I've found two examples where cisterns have been boxed in & tiled over!
People are somewhat dismayed when you tell them the tiles will have to
come off to repair the cistern.

A mate bought a new show house where the tiles had to be removed to gain
access to the boiler for a routine service. And he couldn't get matching
tiles to repair.

--
*I couldn't repair your brakes, so I made your horn louder *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

[Andy Champ]

wrote:
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

EP

We have a not very needed soap dish inset into the worktop near the basin.

Not very needed for soap that is, as the basin has a built in depression.

But it's just above the ballcock in the cistern...

Andy

[Ian_m[_2_]]

wrote in message
...
Just fitting concealed lavatory cistern as part of bathroom re-furb.
It is an Ideal Standard Conceala with dual pneumatic buttons attached
by air pipes.
Across the top of the cupboard like unit, a worktop will be fitted
into which a wash basin will be set and sealed with silicone to
prevent the worktop turning into soggy wheatabix with the wet.

So, when the Torbeck-type valve gets a bit of grit in it and needs
sorting how do you get back into the unit? The guy in the bathroom
showroom said, "They never go wrong". All it takes is a bit of work
on the water main up the road and grit gets in. Also the washer will
wear out over time.

Ideas, please.

I have a MacDee (?) concealed cistern under a bathroom workstop, easy peasy
to get to fiddle with.

1. Remove panel above loo (easier said than done).
2. Turn off water to cistern.
3. Flush to remove water.
4. Disconnect incoming water pipe where it enters cistern or at isolating
valve.
5. Undo down pipe attached to cistern.
6. The whole cistern can them be lifted up off its rear attachment bracket
and removed for easy fiddling.

7. Reverse the whole process to put back.

[Frank Erskine]

On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 15:01:50 +0100, "Ian_m"
wrote:

I have a MacDee (?) concealed cistern under a bathroom workstop, easy peasy
to get to fiddle with.

1. Remove panel above loo (easier said than done).
2. Turn off water to cistern.
3. Flush to remove water.

What if the fault's in the flushing system so that you can't empty it?

--
Frank Erskine

[The Medway Handyman]

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 15:01:50 +0100, "Ian_m"
wrote:

I have a MacDee (?) concealed cistern under a bathroom workstop,
easy peasy to get to fiddle with.

1. Remove panel above loo (easier said than done).
2. Turn off water to cistern.
3. Flush to remove water.

What if the fault's in the flushing system so that you can't empty it?

Wet vac.


--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

[Mike Barnes]

In uk.d-i-y, Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 15:01:50 +0100, "Ian_m"
wrote:

I have a MacDee (?) concealed cistern under a bathroom workstop, easy peasy
to get to fiddle with.

1. Remove panel above loo (easier said than done).
2. Turn off water to cistern.
3. Flush to remove water.

What if the fault's in the flushing system so that you can't empty it?

Bale it out with a plastic cup. Suck the last half-inch out with a long
straw.

--
Mike Barnes

[Rod]

Frank Erskine wrote:
On Wed, 3 Sep 2008 15:01:50 +0100, "Ian_m"
wrote:

I have a MacDee (?) concealed cistern under a bathroom workstop, easy peasy
to get to fiddle with.

1. Remove panel above loo (easier said than done).
2. Turn off water to cistern.
3. Flush to remove water.

What if the fault's in the flushing system so that you can't empty it?

I am not going to photograph that as well! But I think that I could
disconnect the water supply and the flush pipe easily. Then just lift
the whole cistern out. Memory (which tends to be rather fallible) says
that the cistern sort of 'hangs' on a couple of clips and that would
make it easy to remove in this way.

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org