[whisky-dave]

I've taken most of the varnish off of some stair banisters and two
hand rails that had a dark varnish on them, most of the remaining wood
still isn't as light in colour as I'd like it. I was hoping to find
something in a
high street B&Q or somewhere. I've found a few suppliers of chemicals
like oxalic acid and hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide, but I'd
like something a bit easier and perhaps safer, some can of something
that says "I lighten and bleach wood" on it.
I'm not sure what wood it is, but assuming it;'s not expensive wood.
Any suggestions......

[The Natural Philosopher]

whisky-dave wrote:
I've taken most of the varnish off of some stair banisters and two
hand rails that had a dark varnish on them, most of the remaining wood
still isn't as light in colour as I'd like it. I was hoping to find
something in a
high street B&Q or somewhere. I've found a few suppliers of chemicals
like oxalic acid and hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide, but I'd
like something a bit easier and perhaps safer, some can of something
that says "I lighten and bleach wood" on it.
I'm not sure what wood it is, but assuming it;'s not expensive wood.
Any suggestions......


None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Oxalic acid=Rhubarb (leaves?)
Hydrogen peroxide= hair bleach
Sodium hydroxide..well that is a tad excessive: it's caustic soda but
isn't a huge issue though it will belach (and rot) fabrics.

I think you left one out - sodium hypchorite IIRC is standard houshold
bleach.

However, really all this farting about with cheap wood seems pointless.

Paint them or get hardwood ones made or something. Life's too short.

[Stuart Noble]

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
whisky-dave wrote:
I've taken most of the varnish off of some stair banisters and two
hand rails that had a dark varnish on them, most of the remaining wood
still isn't as light in colour as I'd like it. I was hoping to find
something in a
high street B&Q or somewhere. I've found a few suppliers of chemicals
like oxalic acid and hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide, but I'd
like something a bit easier and perhaps safer, some can of something
that says "I lighten and bleach wood" on it.
I'm not sure what wood it is, but assuming it;'s not expensive wood.
Any suggestions......


None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Oxalic acid=Rhubarb (leaves?)
Hydrogen peroxide= hair bleach
Sodium hydroxide..well that is a tad excessive: it's caustic soda but
isn't a huge issue though it will belach (and rot) fabrics.

I think you left one out - sodium hypchorite IIRC is standard houshold
bleach.

However, really all this farting about with cheap wood seems pointless.

Paint them or get hardwood ones made or something. Life's too short.


The only bleach that might work is the 2 part caustic/peroxide type, and
that will lighten the wood itself but not any stains or varnish that may
be left from the stripping.

The peroxide in woodworking bleach is about 30 times stronger than hair
products and stings like crazy. Not something I'd recommend unless
you're going to take precautions

[Andy Wade]

whisky-dave wrote:

Any suggestions......

Rustin's Wood Bleach kit worked for me:
http://www.rustins.co.uk/wbleach.htm

--
Andy

[[email protected]]

On 15 May, 23:50, stuart noble wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
whisky-dave wrote:
I've taken most of the varnish off of some stair banisters and two
hand rails that had a dark varnish on them, most of the remaining wood
still isn't as light in colour as I'd like it. I was hoping to find
something in a
high street B&Q or somewhere. I've found a few suppliers of chemicals
*like oxalic acid and hydrogen peroxide and sodium hydroxide, but I'd
*like something a bit easier and perhaps safer, some can of something
that says "I lighten and bleach wood" on it.
I'm not sure what wood it is, but assuming it;'s not expensive wood.
Any suggestions......

None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Oxalic acid=Rhubarb (leaves?)
Hydrogen peroxide= hair bleach
Sodium hydroxide..well that is a tad excessive: it's caustic soda but
isn't a huge issue though it will belach (and rot) fabrics.

I think you left one out - sodium hypchorite IIRC is standard houshold
bleach.

However, really all this farting about with cheap wood seems pointless.

Paint them or get hardwood ones made or something. Life's too short.

The only bleach that might work is the 2 part caustic/peroxide type, and
that will lighten the wood itself but not any stains or varnish that may
be left from the stripping.

The peroxide in woodworking bleach is about 30 times stronger than hair
products and stings like crazy. Not something I'd recommend unless
you're going to take precautions- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Dear All
Caustic products (ie sodium or potassium hydroxide) are used to
extract hemicelluloses from the surface of the wood and thus change
the structure of the outer parts. For that reason I do not use them
(execept in the lab to extract the hemicelluloses!).
If I were to lighten the wood I would consider the chlorine based ones
but agree with the post that lightening wood like this is a
questionable objective. If you want them light - paint them. They were
never designed to be seen as wood in the first place so to so so now x
years later is not really in keeping with the original building. Who
knows in 50 years time someone may say liken the action to the way in
which in the 1950s all the Victorian panelled doors were covered up
with hardboard!
Rant over..
BTW oxalic acid is pretty nasty stuff and if there are any children
around --- care
Chris

[[email protected]]

On 15 May, 19:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:

None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Hydrogen peroxide

Ask the Bradford 4 about H2O2?

[Stuart Noble]

wrote:
On 15 May, 19:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Hydrogen peroxide

Ask the Bradford 4 about H2O2?

Yeah, well they bought masses of hairdressing strength, which says it
all really.

[Stuart Noble]

Dear All
Caustic products (ie sodium or potassium hydroxide) are used to
extract hemicelluloses from the surface of the wood and thus change
the structure of the outer parts. For that reason I do not use them
(execept in the lab to extract the hemicelluloses!).
If I were to lighten the wood I would consider the chlorine based ones

IME ordinary household bleach has no effect on wood, other than to
darken it slightly if you use the "thick" versions which contain caustic
soda. Milton sterilising fluid is pure hypochlorite I think but, as I
say, does nothing IME.

but agree with the post that lightening wood like this is a
questionable objective. If you want them light - paint them. They were
never designed to be seen as wood in the first place so to so so now x
years later is not really in keeping with the original building. Who
knows in 50 years time someone may say liken the action to the way in
which in the 1950s all the Victorian panelled doors were covered up
with hardboard!
Rant over..

Rant away! I stripped and bleached mine. Douglas fir spindles and a
mahogany handrail. The Victorians painted them because the wood was
cheap. Now it isn't, so I can impress my friends and have cheese and
wine parties on the stairs :-)

BTW oxalic acid is pretty nasty stuff and if there are any children
around --- care

Can be fatal by ingestion IIRC. IME children are so conservative and
cautious about food and drink that it's difficult to believe they would
just pick up something unfamiliar and eat it.

[The Natural Philosopher]

wrote:
On 15 May, 19:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Hydrogen peroxide

Ask the Bradford 4 about H2O2?

Try buying it in sufficient concentration..

Heck you can make gunpowder out of bird ****.

That doesn't make it unsafe to spread on the roses.

[The Natural Philosopher]

stuart noble wrote:

Dear All
Caustic products (ie sodium or potassium hydroxide) are used to
extract hemicelluloses from the surface of the wood and thus change
the structure of the outer parts. For that reason I do not use them
(execept in the lab to extract the hemicelluloses!).
If I were to lighten the wood I would consider the chlorine based ones

IME ordinary household bleach has no effect on wood, other than to
darken it slightly if you use the "thick" versions which contain caustic
soda. Milton sterilising fluid is pure hypochlorite I think but, as I
say, does nothing IME.

but agree with the post that lightening wood like this is a
questionable objective. If you want them light - paint them. They were
never designed to be seen as wood in the first place so to so so now x
years later is not really in keeping with the original building. Who
knows in 50 years time someone may say liken the action to the way in
which in the 1950s all the Victorian panelled doors were covered up
with hardboard!
Rant over..

Rant away! I stripped and bleached mine. Douglas fir spindles and a
mahogany handrail. The Victorians painted them because the wood was
cheap. Now it isn't, so I can impress my friends and have cheese and
wine parties on the stairs :-)


It is still compared with the time to do all that..

BTW oxalic acid is pretty nasty stuff and if there are any children
around --- care

Can be fatal by ingestion IIRC. IME children are so conservative and
cautious about food and drink that it's difficult to believe they would
just pick up something unfamiliar and eat it.

huh?

[Mark]

On Fri, 16 May 2008 09:33:04 +0100, stuart noble
wrote:

wrote:
On 15 May, 19:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Hydrogen peroxide

Ask the Bradford 4 about H2O2?

Yeah, well they bought masses of hairdressing strength, which says it
all really.

Yes, they wanted to bleach their long hair?

--
(\__/) M.
(='.'=) Owing to the amount of spam posted via googlegroups and
(")_(") their inaction to the problem. I am blocking most articles
posted from there. If you wish your postings to be seen by
everyone you will need use a different method of posting.
See http://improve-usenet.org

[Rod]

wrote:
On 15 May, 19:22, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
None of the aboce are especially dangerous

Hydrogen peroxide

Ask the Bradford 4 about H2O2?

I thought at least some of the H2O2 had been bought in High Wycombe (and
nearby). Don't want to be left out... :-)

--
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
www.thyromind.info www.thyroiduk.org www.altsupportthyroid.org

[whisky-dave]

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...




BTW oxalic acid is pretty nasty stuff and if there are any children
around --- care

Can be fatal by ingestion IIRC. IME children are so conservative and
cautious about food and drink that it's difficult to believe they would
just pick up something unfamiliar and eat it.

Only if you tell them not to eat it.
I bet of I did tell any kids to eat it because it's good for them they'd
never touch the stuff again. ;-)

(anyone see that program on negistive suggestion last night ?)

[whisky-dave]

"Andy Wade" wrote in message
...
whisky-dave wrote:

Any suggestions......

Rustin's Wood Bleach kit worked for me:
http://www.rustins.co.uk/wbleach.htm


Chees that looks worht a try.

[whisky-dave]

"stuart noble" wrote in message
...


The peroxide in woodworking bleach is about 30 times stronger than hair
products and stings like crazy. Not something I'd recommend unless you're
going to take precautions

I'd take precautions, gloves, goggles, white coat, steel toe capped boots
and the all important comdon ;-)

[Stuart Noble]

whisky-dave wrote:
"stuart noble" wrote in message
...


The peroxide in woodworking bleach is about 30 times stronger than hair
products and stings like crazy. Not something I'd recommend unless you're
going to take precautions

I'd take precautions, gloves, goggles, white coat, steel toe capped boots
and the all important comdon ;-)




One problem with brushing spindles crossways is that the peroxide can
flick off the bristles and end up further away than you might think. You
won't see where exactly until it dries. Spotted carpets etc.
The other thing to remember is that you really need 2 synthetic brushes
(Pound Shop type) and 2 plastic containers to decant into. Keep part a
and b separate because the peroxide bottle will swell if there's any
hint of cross contamination.
The white coat would be a good idea :-)

[Stuart Noble]

Owain wrote:
whisky-dave wrote:
I'd take precautions, gloves, goggles, white coat, steel toe capped boots
and the all important comdon ;-)

Would it be better to apply it using a pressure washer from a safe
distance?

Owain



The mind boggles. Perhaps you should have included a smiley, just in case