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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?

Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.

--
*It's o.k. to laugh during sexŒ.Œ.just don't point!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

On 2008-03-01 13:24:08 +0000, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?

Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.


I can't see any reason why not apart from a possible warranty issue.
Can you get the connectors? If so, making up a lead would seem to be
a good way, then if you have to put the thing back you can.

Screened cable would be a good idea in case of RF pickup, considering
your location.


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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC


why DC ?

The Saunier Duval programmer is 24vdc powered, but almost every other
one I've encountered is mains powered

--
geoff
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message 47c967aa@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes
On 2008-03-01 13:24:08 +0000, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.
However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish
to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.
The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?
Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled
surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.


I can't see any reason why not apart from a possible warranty issue.
Can you get the connectors? If so, making up a lead would seem to be
a good way, then if you have to put the thing back you can.

Screened cable would be a good idea in case of RF pickup, considering
your location.

It's probably a relay switching inside

I don't think RF would be a problem, but surely the manual will give an
indication of what the timer does

L, N and two switch contacts would sound logical to me

--
geoff
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article ,
geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler
itself. Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external
controller - using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one
set to constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the
unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC


why DC ?


It's basically just a PCB with surface mount components on it - no signs
of mains transformers or relays etc anywhere.

The Saunier Duval programmer is 24vdc powered, but almost every other
one I've encountered is mains powered


I've not investigated fully but I'd guess it controls external relays etc
via an external interface.

I have a spare programmer as I bought the external temperature
compensation kit which uses a different one. Ie, different electronics etc
but 'physically' the same. So I can trace what the four pin plug on the
PCB is wired to at leisure

--
*If Barbie is so popular, why do you have to buy her friends? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

On Mar 1, 1:24*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
*I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine. *

*However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

*The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?

*Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.

--
*It's o.k. to laugh during sexŒ.Œ.just don't point!

* * Dave Plowman * * * * * * * * London SW
* * * * * * * * * To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Hi

You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.

Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.

Steve
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article
,
stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.

Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?

But thanks very much for that.

--
*I am a nobody, and nobody is perfect; therefore I am perfect*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

On 2008-03-01 17:09:31 +0000, geoff said:

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC


why DC ?

The Saunier Duval programmer is 24vdc powered, but almost every other
one I've encountered is mains powered


Mine's 0, 12v and then 2 way data on a single wire......

The controller handles time, signals temperature as an actual reading
and allows control of the relative sensitivity of the room temperature
vs. the weather compensator.



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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

On 2008-03-01 17:09:31 +0000, geoff said:

In message 47c967aa@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes
On 2008-03-01 13:24:08 +0000, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.
However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.
The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?
Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.


I can't see any reason why not apart from a possible warranty issue.
Can you get the connectors? If so, making up a lead would seem to be
a good way, then if you have to put the thing back you can.

Screened cable would be a good idea in case of RF pickup, considering
your location.

It's probably a relay switching inside

I don't think RF would be a problem, but surely the manual will give an
indication of what the timer does

L, N and two switch contacts would sound logical to me


I wouldn't assume that in a boiler of this type....



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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message 47c9c8e8@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes
On 2008-03-01 17:09:31 +0000, geoff said:

In message 47c967aa@qaanaaq, Andy Hall writes
On 2008-03-01 13:24:08 +0000, "Dave Plowman (News)"
said:

I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher
with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.
However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.
The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?
Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.
I can't see any reason why not apart from a possible warranty
issue. Can you get the connectors? If so, making up a lead would
seem to be a good way, then if you have to put the thing back you can.
Screened cable would be a good idea in case of RF pickup,
considering your location.

It's probably a relay switching inside
I don't think RF would be a problem, but surely the manual will give
an indication of what the timer does
L, N and two switch contacts would sound logical to me


I wouldn't assume that in a boiler of this type....

I wouldn't like to make any assumptions, especially as I don't know the
beast, especially following the brief description, but even quite a lot
of small, compact ones use a cap/resistor dropper from a mains supply.

"Data" also would be a very posh name for what is effectively a switch



--
geoff


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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.

Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?

But thanks very much for that.

Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


--
geoff
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article ,
geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.

Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?

But thanks very much for that.

Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


I must look at it again more thoroughly but I remember it as not giving an
actual circuit of everything - just those external parts like pump etc.
More of a block schematic.

--
*OK, so what's the speed of dark? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.

Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.

Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.

Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?

But thanks very much for that.

Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


I must look at it again more thoroughly but I remember it as not giving an
actual circuit of everything - just those external parts like pump etc.
More of a block schematic.

Well, of course it won't, but between what it does tell you (don't
ignore the fault finding) and poking around with a meter, you should be
able to crack it


--
geoff
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

On Mar 2, 12:40*am, geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

In article ,
* geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
* stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.


Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?


But thanks very much for that.


Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


I must look at it again more thoroughly but I remember it as not giving an
actual circuit of everything - just those external parts like pump etc.
More of a block schematic.


Well, of course it won't, but between what it does tell you (don't
ignore the fault finding) and poking around with a meter, you should be
able to crack it

--
geoff


Hmm.

It's definitely two wires according to the schematic. Pins 7&6 of
connector X3.

See page 13 of this document:-

http://tinyurl.com/382uo4

Dave, does your controller look like the one on page 14?

Steve
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article
,
stevelup wrote:
On Mar 2, 12:40 am, geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

In article ,
geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.


Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?


But thanks very much for that.


Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


I must look at it again more thoroughly but I remember it as not giving an
actual circuit of everything - just those external parts like pump etc.
More of a block schematic.


Well, of course it won't, but between what it does tell you (don't
ignore the fault finding) and poking around with a meter, you should be
able to crack it

--
geoff


Hmm.


It's definitely two wires according to the schematic. Pins 7&6 of
connector X3.


See page 13 of this document:-


http://tinyurl.com/382uo4


I'm on shaky ground here but isn't that referring to using an external
controller with the original still in place but set to continuous?

Dave, does your controller look like the one on page 14?


Yes - similar. It's called a Vitotronic 200 - the one with weather
compensation mode.

Steve


--
*If tennis elbow is painful, imagine suffering with tennis balls *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In message
,
stevelup writes
On Mar 2, 12:40*am, geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

In article ,
* geoff wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article
,
* stevelup wrote:
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Ah. Thought I'd read it from cover to cover.


Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Wonder why the plug is 4 pin?


But thanks very much for that.


Surely there's a schematic which explains it all


I must look at it again more thoroughly but I remember it as not giving an
actual circuit of everything - just those external parts like pump etc.
More of a block schematic.


Well, of course it won't, but between what it does tell you (don't
ignore the fault finding) and poking around with a meter, you should be
able to crack it

--
geoff


Hmm.

It's definitely two wires according to the schematic. Pins 7&6 of
connector X3.

See page 13 of this document:-

http://tinyurl.com/382uo4

Dave, does your controller look like the one on page 14?

Well, P11 shows quite clearly that there are two options one which is a
radio clock (which is unlikely on one contained within the boiler itself
as opposed to a remote) and one with live and neutral power lines where
one of the switch contacts is that live line - what's the problem ?


--
geoff
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On Mar 2, 5:55*pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
* *stevelup wrote:
See page 13 of this document:-
http://tinyurl.com/382uo4


I'm on shaky ground here but isn't that referring to using an external
controller with the original still in place but set to continuous? *


No, I believe you remove the whole controller from the front of the
boiler and relocated it - which is why the mounting kit I gave you the
part number for earlier includes a blanking plate to fill the hole on
the boiler

Dave, does your controller look like the one on page 14?


Yes - similar. It's called a Vitotronic 200 - the one with weather
compensation mode.


The external temperature sensor appears to connect to pin 1+2 on
connector X3 and not directly to the the Vitotronic unit so it
shouldn't make any difference.

I have every faith that if you just find pins 6+7 on connector X3,
extend them to wherever you would like the control panel and reconnect
them, it should work.

The official manufacturers part would be nice because it gives you a
proper mounting but I can't see it being necessary from a technical
point of view.

Steve
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article
,
stevelup wrote:
Dave, does your controller look like the one on page 14?


Yes - similar. It's called a Vitotronic 200 - the one with weather
compensation mode.


The external temperature sensor appears to connect to pin 1+2 on
connector X3 and not directly to the the Vitotronic unit so it
shouldn't make any difference.


The weather compensation kit comes with a replacement 'programmer' so
there must be more to it.

I have every faith that if you just find pins 6+7 on connector X3,
extend them to wherever you would like the control panel and reconnect
them, it should work.


I'm just curious about why they'd combine the DC with the data when
there's no need. And why the controller has a four pin connector.

The official manufacturers part would be nice because it gives you a
proper mounting but I can't see it being necessary from a technical
point of view.


The mounting and blank plate will certainly make things easy so I'll order
it up tomorrow.

--
*Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article
,
stevelup wrote:
On Mar 1, 1:24 pm, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
I replaced my trusty of old basic electric Potterton Kingfisher with a
Vitodens 200 system boiler some months ago. And it works just fine.

However, I miss having the external programmer of old - if I wish to
switch things off when going away etc it means going to the boiler itself.
Viessmann reckon the way round this is to use an extra external controller
- using the room stat circuit - and leave the internal one set to
constant. Which isn't really what I want. Apart from the unnecessary cost.

The integral controller has a four pin plug for everything - so I'm
assuming DC and a data circuit. Any reason why I shouldn't just extend
this and site the programmer where I want it - the cable run would only be
a metre or so. Or any other suggestions?

Other thing is the existing old programmer is mounted on a tiled surface
and if I remove it it will leave holes. And I've no spare tiles. But
dislike having an unused device left in place.

--
*It's o.k. to laugh during sexŒ.Œ.just don't point!

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.


Hi


You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.


Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.



Spoke to Viessmann this morning - what a breath of fresh air getting
straight through to a bloke who obviously knew the things inside out -
when asking for technical advice.

The part number you gave is correct for earlier units but it seems can't
be done with current ones. What they do supply is a slave unit which looks
the same and duplicates all the operational features of the main one which
stays in place - all it doesn't do is allow access to maintenance and
setup codes/features.

It does indeed work on only two wires and it's a Vitotronic 300 with a
part number 7248 907 - this is for the weather compensated one.

--
*Why are they called apartments, when they're all stuck together? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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On Mar 3, 9:30*am, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.
Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


*Spoke to Viessmann this morning - what a breath of fresh air getting
straight through to a bloke who obviously knew the things inside out -
when asking for technical advice.

*The part number you gave is correct for earlier units but it seems can't
be done with current ones. What they do supply is a slave unit which looks
the same and duplicates all the operational features of the main one which
stays in place - all it doesn't do is allow access to maintenance and
setup codes/features.

* It does indeed work on only two wires and it's a Vitotronic 300 with a
part number 7248 907 - this is for the weather compensated one.


Good stuff. Is it expensive?

Steve


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Default Vitodens 200 programmer.

In article
,
stevelup wrote:
On Mar 3, 9:30 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article
,
You need Part No. 7133 385 according to the installation manual. This
is a wall mounting adaptor plate for the controller and includes a
blanking plate for the front of the boiler.
Maximum cable length is 30M and you need 2 core cable apparently.


Spoke to Viessmann this morning - what a breath of fresh air getting
straight through to a bloke who obviously knew the things inside out -
when asking for technical advice.


The part number you gave is correct for earlier units but it seems
can't be done with current ones. What they do supply is a slave unit
which looks the same and duplicates all the operational features of
the main one which stays in place - all it doesn't do is allow access
to maintenance and setup codes/features.

It does indeed work on only two wires and it's a Vitotronic 300 with
a part number 7248 907 - this is for the weather compensated one.


Good stuff. Is it expensive?


Yes. It's Viessmann. ;-)

About 80 quid.

--
*Cleaned by Stevie Wonder, checked by David Blunkett*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
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