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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

TRV stuck



 
 
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  #21  
Old November 24th 07, 02:40 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 90
Default TRV stuck

Fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

I've got a radiator that is not warming up and I think the TRV is
stuck. I know this happens now and again. If you take the top off,
there is a pin. I can't remember, do I push it in or pull it out to
release it?

Would a little 3-in-1 or WD40 on it prevent this happening again?

Thanks.


Just dealt with two such stuck valves. Take the head off (the dry bit only),
then see if you and push the pin in (not too hard mind).

If not, try a sharp tap with a light metal tool, eg pliers or pin hammer.
You are looking to invoke a small shock to crack the stuck valve open, not
to hit it so hard you damage it, or upset the compression/screw fittings.

Worked on both of mine. Then put the head back and turn on and off a few
time, which should finish the job.

If that doesn't work, don't get any more violent or you might get wet, in a
black yukky magnetity sort of way. Buy a new valve and fit when convenient.

Cheers

Tim
Ads
  #23  
Old November 24th 07, 03:06 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 1,211
Default TRV stuck

On 24 Nov 2007 13:55:35 GMT Andrew Gabriel wrote :
I designed and installed central heating about 6 years ago.
I split into downstairs and upstairs zones with separate control.


My flat is long and narrow, bed one end, kit/liv the other and
split 2 zones, 2 x CM67. Two rads in the hall one on each zone,
bathroom radiator is the bypass. Works brilliantly and is
economical too.

Sadly though I can't help think that many so-called pros would have
walked or quoted a mega price if asked to do something like this.

--
Tony Bryer SDA UK 'Software to build on' http://www.sda.co.uk

  #24  
Old November 24th 07, 03:45 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 15,132
Default TRV stuck

Andrew Gabriel wrote:

Alternatively, buy another wall stat and stick it to the wall
with double-sided sticky pads without connecting it to anything,
and tell the rest of the family that's the new thermostat:-)


This could actually be an answer for the "I think a thermostat is just
an on off switch" brigade... sneaky ;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
  #25  
Old November 24th 07, 07:35 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,864
Default TRV stuck

In message , Tim Southerwood
writes
Fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

I've got a radiator that is not warming up and I think the TRV is
stuck. I know this happens now and again. If you take the top off,
there is a pin. I can't remember, do I push it in or pull it out to
release it?

Would a little 3-in-1 or WD40 on it prevent this happening again?

Thanks.


Just dealt with two such stuck valves. Take the head off (the dry bit only),
then see if you and push the pin in (not too hard mind).

If not, try a sharp tap with a light metal tool, eg pliers or pin hammer.
You are looking to invoke a small shock to crack the stuck valve open, not
to hit it so hard you damage it, or upset the compression/screw fittings.

NO

Place a flat object (spanner head or something) on the pin and hit that

That way, you don't damage the pin

--
geoff
  #26  
Old November 24th 07, 10:44 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 8,323
Default TRV stuck

Fred wrote:
Hi,

I've got a radiator that is not warming up and I think the TRV is
stuck. I know this happens now and again. If you take the top off,
there is a pin. I can't remember, do I push it in or pull it out to
release it?



FYI I had a lockshield valve that was stuck t'other day whilst changing a
rad. Mole grips around the valve body, big adjustable on the flats of the
valve - and the bugger snapped clean off at the base of the flat.

New lockshield only 2:80, system drained so no real problem, but it could
have been.



--
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257


  #27  
Old November 25th 07, 08:45 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 90
Default TRV stuck


"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"Autolycus" writes:

snip
Guess who's in the process of designing a heating system and wants it
fully zoned - 5 rooms - and adjustable to real, understood,
temperature
values, and set without grovelling on the floor, trying to move a
valve
between four-and-a-tiny-bit and four-and-a-tiny-bit-and-a-gnat's.


I suspect that maybe OTT.

I designed and installed central heating about 6 years ago.
I split into downstairs and upstairs zones with separate control.
I did accurate heatloss calculations for each room and sized the
rads appropriately.


snip

The additional constraints that have made me consider this fully-zoned
system a

1) It's a bungalow: the dining room has a small kitchen directly off
it, and has a large, south-facing window, but the lounge is north-facing
with a small window on the west wall, and has previously been found to
work well with two radiators. One bedroom faces north, one south.

2) It will be occupied by an elderly couple, who may wish to use the
rooms fairly flexibly (study-bedroom, etc) and who will almost certainly
want to be able to vary the temperature in odd rooms at odd times. I
think that only the bathroom is really amenable to a normal programmable
room stat, though they could be used in the other rooms.

3) They don't really want to be crawling round faffing with trvs,
especially since most are so coarsely calibrated that you can't easily
return them to a "standard" position. Remote heads for trvs seem to
have gone out of fashion. A dial, or a display, that they can set to
21, or 18 (or even better, 70 or 65) will be much more likely to be
used.

Thanks to Tim for the link, and to Thomas who emailed me

http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=560618

as a source of radio-controlled actuators. I wonder how long the
batteries last in the actuators? These would be an interesting
alternative to trvs in a system controlled overall by one roomstat, but
I can't at the moment see how to use a number of them to links as OR
inputs to call for heat from the boiler.

http://www.conrad.de/goto.php?artikel=611275 seems to be a similar
device to the Sauter AXT111, but isn't available with an auxiliary
switch.

In the system I envisage, when the room stat calls for heat, two things
will happen: the relevant valve(s) will open; and the boiler will get a
call for heat. This can be achieved using normally open actuators, and
an SPDT room stat, or by NC actuators and a bank of relays, or, easiest,
perhaps, by using conventional two-port motorised valves with auxiliary
switches. The latter have the further advantage that the boiler won't
be woken up till the valves are open, whereas with thermal actuators the
boiler will fire before there's anywhere for the hot water to go.

Boiler choice can be another thread ;-)

--
Kevin Poole
**Use current month and year to reply (e.g. )***

  #28  
Old November 25th 07, 11:54 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,285
Default TRV stuck

In article , Autolycus
writes

The additional constraints that have made me consider this fully-zoned
system a

1) It's a bungalow: the dining room has a small kitchen directly off
it, and has a large, south-facing window, but the lounge is north-facing
with a small window on the west wall, and has previously been found to
work well with two radiators. One bedroom faces north, one south.

2) It will be occupied by an elderly couple, who may wish to use the
rooms fairly flexibly (study-bedroom, etc) and who will almost certainly
want to be able to vary the temperature in odd rooms at odd times. I
think that only the bathroom is really amenable to a normal programmable
room stat, though they could be used in the other rooms.

3) They don't really want to be crawling round faffing with trvs,
especially since most are so coarsely calibrated that you can't easily
return them to a "standard" position. Remote heads for trvs seem to
have gone out of fashion. A dial, or a display, that they can set to
21, or 18 (or even better, 70 or 65) will be much more likely to be
used.


In the system I envisage, when the room stat calls for heat, two things
will happen: the relevant valve(s) will open; and the boiler will get a
call for heat. This can be achieved using normally open actuators, and
an SPDT room stat, or by NC actuators and a bank of relays, or, easiest,
perhaps, by using conventional two-port motorised valves with auxiliary
switches. The latter have the further advantage that the boiler won't
be woken up till the valves are open, whereas with thermal actuators the
boiler will fire before there's anywhere for the hot water to go.

With full multi-zoning like this using simplified controls that don't
have synchronised demand you can find the boiler firing just to service
a call to heat for a one small room, leading to frequent boiler cycling.
When I designed my own system I plumbed it so that heat from the large
H/W cylinder could be stolen to meet light C/H demands, as with a
thermal store. The boiler would then only fire to top up the thermal
store (when operating on light loads). The extra components are a second
pump and a non-return flap valve to stop back flow through the boiler
and of course extra control to detect light loading. This phase of the
project has yet to be implemented as I have the 7 zones configured in 2
control banks (4+3) and the need for such fine control hasn't been
required. The control for the light loading would be simple logic but
proprietary.

An alternative is not to fire the boiler until either 2 or more rooms
call for heat or 1 room plus a fixed delay had timed out. The effect of
this is to try and force the zones into some sort of synchronised demand
but again this requires proprietary control.
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla
  #29  
Old November 25th 07, 03:55 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 90
Default TRV stuck

geoff coughed up some electrons that declared:

In message , Tim Southerwood
writes
Fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

I've got a radiator that is not warming up and I think the TRV is
stuck. I know this happens now and again. If you take the top off,
there is a pin. I can't remember, do I push it in or pull it out to
release it?

Would a little 3-in-1 or WD40 on it prevent this happening again?

Thanks.


Just dealt with two such stuck valves. Take the head off (the dry bit
only), then see if you and push the pin in (not too hard mind).

If not, try a sharp tap with a light metal tool, eg pliers or pin hammer.
You are looking to invoke a small shock to crack the stuck valve open, not
to hit it so hard you damage it, or upset the compression/screw fittings.

NO

Place a flat object (spanner head or something) on the pin and hit that

That way, you don't damage the pin


I should been clearer: tap the side of the body of the valve, not the pin.
2 or 3 sharp light taps are often all it takes.

Yeah, hitting the pin with a hammer will bugger it up.


  #30  
Old November 25th 07, 04:27 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
external usenet poster
 
Posts: 3,864
Default TRV stuck

In message , Tim Southerwood
writes
geoff coughed up some electrons that declared:

In message , Tim Southerwood
writes
Fred coughed up some electrons that declared:

Hi,

I've got a radiator that is not warming up and I think the TRV is
stuck. I know this happens now and again. If you take the top off,
there is a pin. I can't remember, do I push it in or pull it out to
release it?

Would a little 3-in-1 or WD40 on it prevent this happening again?

Thanks.

Just dealt with two such stuck valves. Take the head off (the dry bit
only), then see if you and push the pin in (not too hard mind).

If not, try a sharp tap with a light metal tool, eg pliers or pin hammer.
You are looking to invoke a small shock to crack the stuck valve open, not
to hit it so hard you damage it, or upset the compression/screw fittings.

NO

Place a flat object (spanner head or something) on the pin and hit that

That way, you don't damage the pin


I should been clearer: tap the side of the body of the valve, not the pin.
2 or 3 sharp light taps are often all it takes.

Yeah, hitting the pin with a hammer will bugger it up.

Well, if you do as I typed above, it works

hitting the side of the body of the valve won't necessarily free the pin
off

--
geoff
 




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