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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Replacing a central heating clock
I will shortly be replacing a central heating controller clock. The entire
house is covered by a single RCD at the consumer unit, so I guess good practice is to shut down the entire house rather than rely on the single pole MCB feeding the clock, and try not to touch neutral to anything earthed. What would a professional electrician do in this case? I plan to do this job in daylight, as the lighting will either be off from the start (if I switch off the entire house) or may go off suddenly (if I only switch off the MCB and get careless with the wires). How would a proper electrician handle this situation? Do they carry powerful torches for use in the winter months? Is limiting myself to daylight hours the sign of a ill-prepared bogder? Thanks |
#2
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Replacing a central heating clock
Simon wrote:
I will shortly be replacing a central heating controller clock. The entire house is covered by a single RCD at the consumer unit, so I guess good practice is to shut down the entire house rather than rely on the single pole MCB feeding the clock, and try not to touch neutral to anything earthed. What would a professional electrician do in this case? I plan to do this job in daylight, as the lighting will either be off from the start (if I switch off the entire house) or may go off suddenly (if I only switch off the MCB and get careless with the wires). How would a proper electrician handle this situation? Do they carry powerful torches for use in the winter months? Is limiting myself to daylight hours the sign of a ill-prepared bogder? Thanks Well, the central heating should either have a 13A plug or be connected to a Fused Spur. If it's a plug, unplug it. If the fused spur has got double pole switching, turn it off and tape it off with some insulating tape whilst you rewire the timer. If the fused spur does not have double pole switching, change it for one that does, then turn it off and tape it off with some insulating tape whilst you rewire the timer. A pro would turn the fused spur off and then grumble when the RCD tripped. He would then remove the neutral wire from the input side of the spur and tape it up whilst he rewired the timer. |
#3
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Replacing a central heating clock
Rumble wrote:
A pro would turn the fused spur off and then grumble when the RCD tripped. He would then remove the neutral wire from the input side of the spur and tape it up whilst he rewired the timer. Switched FCUs will usually have double pole switches since this is what is required for isolation. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#4
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Replacing a central heating clock
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 23:14:21 +0000 someone who may be Rumble
wrote this:- Well, the central heating should either have a 13A plug or be connected to a Fused Spur. If it is fed from a power circuit. Alternatively it may be fed by a dedicated circuit, though even then a local fuse may be necessary if some equipment is designed to be protected by a 3A fuse. -- David Hansen, Edinburgh I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54 |
#5
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Replacing a central heating clock
John Rumm wrote:
Rumble wrote: A pro would turn the fused spur off and then grumble when the RCD tripped. He would then remove the neutral wire from the input side of the spur and tape it up whilst he rewired the timer. Switched FCUs will usually have double pole switches since this is what is required for isolation. I'm pretty sure that the switch in an FCU is for functional switching not isolation. See chapter 537 of the regs. |
#6
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Replacing a central heating clock
On Thu, 08 Nov 2007 20:34:39 +0000, Simon wrote:
I will shortly be replacing a central heating controller clock. The entire house is covered by a single RCD at the consumer unit, so I guess good practice is to shut down the entire house rather than rely on the single pole MCB feeding the clock, and try not to touch neutral to anything earthed. What would a professional electrician do in this case? Switch the CH off at its (double pole) switch or remove its plug. After that the lights stay, the kettle is working and you only have the job to consider. Read the FAQs. All time switches do the same job that is to provide connect the mains to certain wires at certain times of the day. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#7
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Replacing a central heating clock
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 13:12:14 +0000, Rumble wrote:
John Rumm wrote: Rumble wrote: A pro would turn the fused spur off and then grumble when the RCD tripped. He would then remove the neutral wire from the input side of the spur and tape it up whilst he rewired the timer. Switched FCUs will usually have double pole switches since this is what is required for isolation. I'm pretty sure that the switch in an FCU is for functional switching not isolation. See chapter 537 of the regs. I have just looked up 537 and I don't see anything about the use of a FCU being unacceptable. The FCU has a double pole switch. In my book an unswitched socket or switched FCU is entirely acceptable as the maintenance (and emergency isolator) for a domestic CH system. -- Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter. The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html |
#8
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Replacing a central heating clock
Ed Sirett wrote:
On Fri, 09 Nov 2007 13:12:14 +0000, Rumble wrote: John Rumm wrote: Rumble wrote: A pro would turn the fused spur off and then grumble when the RCD tripped. He would then remove the neutral wire from the input side of the spur and tape it up whilst he rewired the timer. Switched FCUs will usually have double pole switches since this is what is required for isolation. I'm pretty sure that the switch in an FCU is for functional switching not isolation. See chapter 537 of the regs. I have just looked up 537 and I don't see anything about the use of a FCU being unacceptable. The FCU has a double pole switch. In my book an unswitched socket or switched FCU is entirely acceptable as the maintenance (and emergency isolator) for a domestic CH system. I wasn't suggesting that FCU's were unacceptable. I was observing that it is inappropriate to refer to a switched FCU as an isolator. Isolation has a specific meaning within the Regulations. Double pole switching is *not* required (on a single phase supply) for isolation and FCUs do not comply with the majority of the other requirements of 537-02, viz: FCU doesn't have minimum 3mm contact gap. FCU doesn't have positive indication of contact position. FCU doesn't have provision against unintentional reclosure. FCU doesn't have a provision for locking off. |
#9
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Replacing a central heating clock
Rumble wrote:
Double pole switching is *not* required (on a single phase supply) for isolation and FCUs do not comply with the majority of the other requirements of 537-02, viz: FCU doesn't have minimum 3mm contact gap. Does not have to have, but many do anyway (the DP ones at least). FCU doesn't have positive indication of contact position. They have a readily observable switch position, and possibly a neon. FCU doesn't have provision against unintentional reclosure. FCU doesn't have a provision for locking off. That depends a bit, on many you can also open the fuse tray and put a padlock through it (by design), although obviously that does not guarantee someone will not close the switch and make the neutral connection. See pdf page 7 for example (also note the comment on contact separation on page 2): http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/PDF/tech..._PLUS_prod.pdf -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
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