[nospam[_2_]]

Hello,

Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.

This happened on the other side some months ago. The repairman did
show me what to do in case it ever happened agin, but I forgot

Am I right to think you remove the track the roller runs along and
then remove the roller, thus freeing the cable. then get one person in
each corner and lower the door and then refit everything in reverse
order?

What's the life expectancy of a garage door? The people we bought the
house from left us all the instructions and receipts, so we know this
is ten years old. Is it time to get a new one?

If so, how easy is it to get one from Wickes and fit it yourself, or
should I call in a professional?

Thanks.

[Stuart Noble]

nospam wrote:
Hello,

Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.

This happened on the other side some months ago. The repairman did
show me what to do in case it ever happened agin, but I forgot

Am I right to think you remove the track the roller runs along and
then remove the roller, thus freeing the cable. then get one person in
each corner and lower the door and then refit everything in reverse
order?

What's the life expectancy of a garage door? The people we bought the
house from left us all the instructions and receipts, so we know this
is ten years old. Is it time to get a new one?

If so, how easy is it to get one from Wickes and fit it yourself, or
should I call in a professional?

Thanks.

Isn't there some kind of tension adjustment that allows the cable to be
lifted off the roller with the door closed. I fixed one a few weeks ago
but can't remember the details.

[Norman Billingham]

"nospam" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.

This happened on the other side some months ago. The repairman did
show me what to do in case it ever happened agin, but I forgot

Am I right to think you remove the track the roller runs along and
then remove the roller, thus freeing the cable. then get one person in
each corner and lower the door and then refit everything in reverse
order?

What's the life expectancy of a garage door? The people we bought the
house from left us all the instructions and receipts, so we know this
is ten years old. Is it time to get a new one?

If so, how easy is it to get one from Wickes and fit it yourself, or
should I call in a professional?


There's no good reason to change the door - they last a very long time as
long as they don't corrode, which is down to maintenance.

If this is the kind of door that has a big spring along the top then there
are usually two wires, one each side, going down to conical plastic pulleys.
You can get "cone and cable" sets from builders merchants and they are not
too difficult to replace. The vital thing is that there should be a clip in
the set - looks a bit like a giant hairpin made of about 4mm steel. This
goes through a hole in the top bar and stops it rotating, thus preventing
the spring from unwinding. There is huge torsion stored in the spring and
thr clip is what stops it relaesing suddenly when you are working on it.

Once its safe, its relatively easy to unfasten the four bolts hodling the
door in place, fold down the mechanism and swap the cone and cable. Usually
they come in pairs and both are replaced at once. You'll need a pin punch
to knock out the dowel holding the cone on its shaft. The sets usually have
instructions.

In my experience, living close to the sea, the cables are not long lived - I
reckon to get about 5 years is good going.

Hope this helps

[John]

"Norman Billingham" wrote in message
...

"nospam" wrote in message
...
Hello,

Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.

This happened on the other side some months ago. The repairman did
show me what to do in case it ever happened agin, but I forgot

Am I right to think you remove the track the roller runs along and
then remove the roller, thus freeing the cable. then get one person in
each corner and lower the door and then refit everything in reverse
order?

What's the life expectancy of a garage door? The people we bought the
house from left us all the instructions and receipts, so we know this
is ten years old. Is it time to get a new one?

If so, how easy is it to get one from Wickes and fit it yourself, or
should I call in a professional?


There's no good reason to change the door - they last a very long time as
long as they don't corrode, which is down to maintenance.

If this is the kind of door that has a big spring along the top then there
are usually two wires, one each side, going down to conical plastic
pulleys. You can get "cone and cable" sets from builders merchants and
they are not too difficult to replace. The vital thing is that there
should be a clip in the set - looks a bit like a giant hairpin made of
about 4mm steel. This goes through a hole in the top bar and stops it
rotating, thus preventing the spring from unwinding. There is huge
torsion stored in the spring and thr clip is what stops it relaesing
suddenly when you are working on it.

Once its safe, its relatively easy to unfasten the four bolts hodling the
door in place, fold down the mechanism and swap the cone and cable.
Usually they come in pairs and both are replaced at once. You'll need a
pin punch to knock out the dowel holding the cone on its shaft. The sets
usually have instructions.

In my experience, living close to the sea, the cables are not long lived -
I reckon to get about 5 years is good going.

Hope this helps


Mine is 25 years old and still opens with one finger - the secret is to
lubricate the mechanism. The trouble is that not many homes now have an oil
can. Oil / grease will also deal with problems that can arise from living
near the sea.

One big problem is that when new houses are built, the door mechanisms
usually get a good coating of sand and grit. Start from new - keep it all
clean and oiled.

[[email protected]]

On Oct 5, 11:57 am, nospam wrote:
Hello,

Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.

This happened on the other side some months ago. The repairman did
show me what to do in case it ever happened agin, but I forgot

Am I right to think you remove the track the roller runs along and
then remove the roller, thus freeing the cable. then get one person in
each corner and lower the door and then refit everything in reverse
order?

What's the life expectancy of a garage door? The people we bought the
house from left us all the instructions and receipts, so we know this
is ten years old. Is it time to get a new one?

If so, how easy is it to get one from Wickes and fit it yourself, or
should I call in a professional?

Thanks.

Be very careful not to release the tension in the spring.

My door is 30+ years old and spares are still available from
http://www.pchenderson.com/ If it's a compatible brand then they have
all the spares and tools you need. Compare the cost against calling
your man out again. You can 'phone then for advice.

MBQ

[A.Lee]

Stuart Noble wrote:

nospam wrote:
Our garage door broke again today. It's a metal one you lift to open.
One of the cables got tangled so it would not shut.


Isn't there some kind of tension adjustment that allows the cable to be
lifted off the roller with the door closed. I fixed one a few weeks ago
but can't remember the details.

The ones I've dealt with had a drilled hole through one end of the
spring shaft, through which you insert a suitable rod, when the door is
closed, to keep the tension on the spring.
To the OP, if you can find this hole, and use it, then do that, then get
a 2nd person to lift up the door on the damaged side, then you, from the
inside can untangle, and re-attach the cable properly. It may take 2 or
3 attempts, but can be done. It is possible on your own, but a little
more difficult.
Alan.

--
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

[nospam[_2_]]

On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:34:43 GMT, "John"
wrote:

Mine is 25 years old and still opens with one finger - the secret is to
lubricate the mechanism. The trouble is that not many homes now have an oil
can. Oil / grease will also deal with problems that can arise from living
near the sea.

Thanks. What type of oil or grease is best and how often should it be
applied and to which parts?

[nospam[_2_]]

On Fri, 5 Oct 2007 18:14:06 +0100, (A.Lee) wrote:

The ones I've dealt with had a drilled hole through one end of the
spring shaft, through which you insert a suitable rod, when the door is
closed, to keep the tension on the spring.

Thanks. A few replies have talked about working on it once the door is
closed. The problem we have is that the door always breaks when we try
to shut it, so it is stuck in the open position. The canopy is then in
the way of the spring, so I think I need to find some way to safely
close the door sot hat I can get access to the spring to work on it.

[John]

"nospam" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:34:43 GMT, "John"
wrote:

Mine is 25 years old and still opens with one finger - the secret is to
lubricate the mechanism. The trouble is that not many homes now have an
oil
can. Oil / grease will also deal with problems that can arise from living
near the sea.

Thanks. What type of oil or grease is best and how often should it be
applied and to which parts?

Anything is better than nothing - but I tend to use a spray grease (not WD40
as this has no thickness) on the track and a dribble of engine oil along the
spring and over the pulleys.

[Stuart Noble]

nospam wrote:
On Fri, 05 Oct 2007 12:34:43 GMT, "John"
wrote:

Mine is 25 years old and still opens with one finger - the secret is to
lubricate the mechanism. The trouble is that not many homes now have an oil
can. Oil / grease will also deal with problems that can arise from living
near the sea.

Thanks. What type of oil or grease is best and how often should it be
applied and to which parts?

IME vaseline is as good as anything, and might save you a trip to
Halfords. Just apply it the once as it never dries out.

[Stuart Noble]

nospam wrote:
On Fri, 5 Oct 2007 18:14:06 +0100, (A.Lee) wrote:

The ones I've dealt with had a drilled hole through one end of the
spring shaft, through which you insert a suitable rod, when the door is
closed, to keep the tension on the spring.

Thanks. A few replies have talked about working on it once the door is
closed. The problem we have is that the door always breaks when we try
to shut it, so it is stuck in the open position. The canopy is then in
the way of the spring, so I think I need to find some way to safely
close the door sot hat I can get access to the spring to work on it.

Ah yes, the memories come flooding back. You need a mate on the outside,
and possibly a length of 2" x 1" timber to prise it into the opening as
it comes down.