We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

wrote in message

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward


Why did'nt you just wait till the people who fitted it came back? you paid
for them to do a job and a satisfactory one.

anyway do have a dremmel drill or clone?

wrote in message
ups.com...
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward
Jig saw with a metal cutting blade ?

wrote:

We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

Aviation tinsnips are geared, so easier to use than traditional
british pattern ones.

To stop the bit sliding about, hold a nail where you want to drill and
give it a tap with a hammer. The slight indentation stops the bit
wandering.

However, if you cut galv you expose bare steel, and rusting will begin
as soon as it rains.


NT

"keith_765" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
ups.com...
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward
Jig saw with a metal cutting blade ?


Now that you have cut it, it will rust as the galvanised coating has been
damaged.

explained :
However, if you cut galv you expose bare steel, and rusting will begin
as soon as it rains.

I understand the galv to some extent migrates to cover the cut edges
[1], besides which the rusting will make very slow progress.

The effect is suggested to be better if the edge has been cut with a
shearing action (tin snips) rather than the tearing action of a drill.

--

Regards,
Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

nibbler.

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:32:44 -0700, teddysnips wrote:

We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if you
like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks too, and
apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips to
cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips, but
I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between the
holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The main pain
is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have any
other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

===================================
If this is a case of enlarging an existing hole then a large round file
would do the job. If you don't like manual work you could use a file bit
(can't remember correct name) in your electric drill.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:32:44 -0700, wrote:

We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

Not if you cut holes in it it won't - it will rust. Wonder if this
is the system someone locally had fitted a few years ago which was
eye wateringly shiny for a bit before producing lots of rust streaks
down the walls?

--
Peter Parry.
http://www.wpp.ltd.uk/

"The Natural Philosopher" wrote in message
...
wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

nibbler.

----- Original Message -----
From: "The Natural Philosopher"
Newsgroups: uk.d-i-y
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 1:02 PM
Subject: Cutting holes in galvanised steel


wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

nibbler.

Use an off-cut of 'bendy plywood/hardboard' within the gutter (obviously
covering the offending orifice)...& then drill through again! ???

On Aug 20, 8:03 pm, wrote:
wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

Aviation tinsnips are geared, so easier to use than traditional
british pattern ones.

To stop the bit sliding about, hold a nail where you want to drill and
give it a tap with a hammer. The slight indentation stops the bit
wandering.

However, if you cut galv you expose bare steel, and rusting will begin
as soon as it rains.

I can't afford aviation tinsnips just for this job (there are 24 holes
to cut) The nail idea will do me very well. I spoke to Lindab about
the gavl/rust - their website says "To provide long time rust proofing
the steel is coated with 275g zinc per m2. The galvanised coating is
naturally self-healing, any scratch or cut being automatically sealed
by zinc ions which migrate to re-coat the uncovered steel". I can
attest that the current holes - too small - which were cut some six
weeks ago are all entirely rust free, and we've had a fair bit of rain
up here in Gloucestershire.

Edward

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 01:41:56 -0700, teddysnips wrote:

On Aug 20, 8:03 pm, wrote:
wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

Aviation tinsnips are geared, so easier to use than traditional british
pattern ones.

To stop the bit sliding about, hold a nail where you want to drill and
give it a tap with a hammer. The slight indentation stops the bit
wandering.

However, if you cut galv you expose bare steel, and rusting will begin
as soon as it rains.

I can't afford aviation tinsnips just for this job (there are 24 holes to
cut) The nail idea will do me very well. I spoke to Lindab about the
gavl/rust - their website says "To provide long time rust proofing the
steel is coated with 275g zinc per m2. The galvanised coating is
naturally self-healing, any scratch or cut being automatically sealed by
zinc ions which migrate to re-coat the uncovered steel". I can attest
that the current holes - too small - which were cut some six weeks ago are
all entirely rust free, and we've had a fair bit of rain up here in
Gloucestershire.

Edward

==================================
Their brochure includes a 'touch-up' paint. It might be worth asking if
that is for the kind of job you're contemplating. It might be for cosmetic
purposes only.

Try a cheap pair of aviation tinsnips:

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/ra...8-5628A29B7471

If they don't work you won't have lost much.

Seriously, if the builder cut 24 holes too small I would be inclined to
ask him to do the remedial work.

Cic.

--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:32:44 -0700, teddysnips wrote:

We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if you
like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks too, and
apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips to
cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips, but
I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between the
holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The main pain
is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have any
other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

===================================
If this is a case of enlarging an existing hole then a large round file
would do the job. If you don't like manual work you could use a file bit
(can't remember correct name) in your electric drill.

Cic.

Most file bits I've seen have the serrations running the wrong way,
and are thus so slow as to not be worth using. Do you know a supplier
with serrations running along the bit rather than almost across?


NT

wrote:

I can't afford aviation tinsnips just for this job (there are 24 holes
to cut)

£1 from poundland


NT

On Tue, 21 Aug 2007 03:21:13 -0700, meow2222 wrote:

Cicero wrote:
On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:32:44 -0700, teddysnips wrote:

We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

===================================
If this is a case of enlarging an existing hole then a large round file
would do the job. If you don't like manual work you could use a file bit
(can't remember correct name) in your electric drill.

Cic.

Most file bits I've seen have the serrations running the wrong way, and
are thus so slow as to not be worth using. Do you know a supplier with
serrations running along the bit rather than almost across?


NT

===================================
You might be right. The only one (for metal) I can see immediately in my
box has spiral grooves. It might be a 'Wolfcraft' but *they* seem to be
all for wood use if current stock in Machinemart is any guide.

In any case my original suggestion wouldn't be much use to the OP (too
tedious) as he needs to expand 24 holes. I doubt if he will do much better
with snips unless he is either a contortionist or removes the gutters to
get good access.

If there's any access from below I think it would be
easier to make a few short cuts in the perimeter of the existing holes and
use a pair of pliers to create a funnel effect without cutting out any
metal. It might be possible to do this from above (which is open) by using
a suitable hammer to tap the perimeter downwards.

Cic.
--
===================================
Using Ubuntu Linux
Windows shown the door
===================================

On Aug 20, 6:32 pm, wrote:
We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if
you like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks
too, and apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips
to cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips,
but I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between
the holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The
main pain is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the
hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have
any other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

Hi,

If you have a fairly powerful 'Dremel' type rotary tool, you could try
some PCB router bits (try Ebay).

These are used for routing glass fibre PCBs so should be able to
handle thin steel sheet OK. Don't breath any zinc dust coming off,
best wear a suitable mask.

If you want to help the zinc re-heal itself try coating the cut area
with a little zinc rich primer or 'cold galvanizing spray'.

cheers,
Pete.

On Aug 20, 9:55 pm, Peter Parry wrote:

Not if you cut holes in it it won't - it will rust.

If the galvanizing is a decent thickness (ie hot dip not electoplate)
it will plate over the adjacent bare steel in the presence of any
water.

cheers,
Pete.

wrote:
Cicero wrote:

On Mon, 20 Aug 2007 10:32:44 -0700, teddysnips wrote:


We've had all our plastic guttering and downpipes (rainwater goods, if you
like) replaced with Lindab galvanised steel. Jolly nice it looks too, and
apparently maintenance-free for a good long time.

However, there was a problem with the gutters overflowing so a
representative from Lindab came to take a look, to make sure that the
correct type had been fitted. Apparently the problem was because the
builder had made the hole in the gutter above the "hopper" too small.
Because the builder's now off-site I think I'll have a go.

The Lindab rep said that there are two ways of doing it - drilling a
succession of small holes and then joining them up, or using tin snips to
cut the hole.

Maybe the Incredible Hulk could cut through this stuff with tin snips, but
I can't. I managed to drill round and then cut the joins between the
holes with the tin snips but it was a long and painful job. The main pain
is because the drill bit skitters about when starting the hole.

I don't really want to drill piddling little pilot holes, so do I have any
other options that I haven't considered?

Sorry to go on at length.

Edward

===================================
If this is a case of enlarging an existing hole then a large round file
would do the job. If you don't like manual work you could use a file bit
(can't remember correct name) in your electric drill.

Cic.


Most file bits I've seen have the serrations running the wrong way,
and are thus so slow as to not be worth using. Do you know a supplier
with serrations running along the bit rather than almost across?


NT

My B+D ones aren't too bad, but for significant enlargement of holes in
steel I wouldn't bother.

I'd centre punch (using a nail if I didn't have a centre punch), chain
drill and finish off with a hacksaw blade - wrap one end in a lot of
gaffa tape if you don't want to buy a proper handle.

I reckon in this situation it is quicker overall if you drill pilot
holes: once round with e.g. 4mm on ~10mm centres, then once round with
10mm and there's only a little bit of finishing off to do with the saw.

C

--
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Pete C wrote:

Hi,

If you have a fairly powerful 'Dremel' type rotary tool, you could try
some PCB router bits (try Ebay).

Or a cutoff wheel to fill in the gaps if you start by chain drilling.
--
Spamtrap in use
To email replace 127.0.0.1 with btinternet dot com