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jal jal is offline
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

jal wrote:
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our
(60s) house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so
I'm going to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it,
plus some big panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a
good wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat
Dulux Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?


I think a good sugar soaping would be fine, but have you considered getting
a few quotes to have it done by a decorator, seeing as you hate it so much
(as I do!). Might not be as expensive as you think.

Si


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:40:17 +0100, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
wrote:

I think a good sugar soaping would be fine, but have you considered getting
a few quotes to have it done by a decorator, seeing as you hate it so much
(as I do!). Might not be as expensive as you think.


That's what I do, I found a retired P&D that likes to keep his hand
in. £60 a day plus materials.
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?


"jal" wrote in message
...
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our

(60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm

going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some

big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a

good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


I can sympathise - when I did my hall stairs and landing last year
prior to sale it felt like the Forth Bridge ! 14 Edwardian 4 panel
doors, and acres of 17" high skirtings, architraves etc. Quite a bit
to be said for boring modern houses !

AWEM


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

jal wrote:
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our
(60s) house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so
I'm going to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it,
plus some big panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a
good wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat
Dulux Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


It can't hurt to wrap some wet-and-dry paper around the cloth or sponge
you're going to wash it down with.

--
LSR




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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:16:31 +0100, LSR wrote:

jal wrote:
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our
(60s) house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so
I'm going to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it,
plus some big panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a
good wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat
Dulux Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


It can't hurt to wrap some wet-and-dry paper around the cloth or sponge
you're going to wash it down with.


You can buy sponges with emery faces in several grades.
--
Jim S
Tyneside UK
http://www.jimscott.co.uk
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Steve Pearce wrote:
On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:40:17 +0100, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
wrote:

I think a good sugar soaping would be fine, but have you considered
getting a few quotes to have it done by a decorator, seeing as you
hate it so much (as I do!). Might not be as expensive as you think.


That's what I do, I found a retired P&D that likes to keep his hand
in. £60 a day plus materials.


Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do something
you find incredibly tedious.

Si


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 12:14:59 +0100, jal wrote:

I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John




It's possible to purchse liquid sander. This is like Sugar soap but
also prepares the surface for painting.

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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Steve Pearce wrote:
On Wed, 1 Aug 2007 12:40:17 +0100, "Mungo \"Two Sheds\" Toadfoot"
wrote:

I think a good sugar soaping would be fine, but have you considered
getting a few quotes to have it done by a decorator, seeing as you
hate it so much (as I do!). Might not be as expensive as you think.

That's what I do, I found a retired P&D that likes to keep his hand
in. £60 a day plus materials.


Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do something
you find incredibly tedious.

Si



Sugar soap is really designed to remove grease and other alkali soluble
gunk, and I don't think many of us live like that nowadays.
Interesting that sugar is quite a good abrasive, as is bicarbonate of
soda, but nothing IME makes the job any easier
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Stuart Noble wrote:

Sugar soap is really designed to remove grease and other alkali soluble
gunk, and I don't think many of us live like that nowadays.


Most of what sticks dirt togther is grease of some form or another.
Either from human skin or often from trace quantities in the air (or
large quantities if one lives in diesel-soaked London.).

Interesting that sugar is quite a good abrasive, as is bicarbonate of
soda, but nothing IME makes the job any easier


I don't know if you are random word associating, but sugar soap has
nothing to do with sugar. And bicarbonate of soda works pretty much like
sugar soap in that it will solubilise lipids.



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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Steve Firth wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:

Sugar soap is really designed to remove grease and other alkali soluble
gunk, and I don't think many of us live like that nowadays.


Most of what sticks dirt togther is grease of some form or another.
Either from human skin or often from trace quantities in the air (or
large quantities if one lives in diesel-soaked London.).

Interesting that sugar is quite a good abrasive, as is bicarbonate of
soda, but nothing IME makes the job any easier


I don't know if you are random word associating


I have nothing better to do

, but sugar soap has
nothing to do with sugar.


Sugar with soap (or washing up liquid)is a damned fine hand cleaner as
it happens, and it's reasonable to suppose its abrasive qualities were
not unknown to decorators. Then again, maybe someone just decided "sugar
soap" was a great name for something that had nothing to do with sugar.

And bicarbonate of soda works pretty much like
sugar soap in that it will solubilise lipids.

I believe sugar soap is now based on a fairly insipid detergent rather
than the phosphates it used to consist of.
Bicarb is sparingly soluble in water, hence its effectiveness as a mild
abrasive in a paste.
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

On Aug 1, 5:10 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Steve Firth wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:


Sugar soap is really designed to remove grease and other alkali soluble
gunk, and I don't think many of us live like that nowadays.


Most of what sticks dirt togther is grease of some form or another.
Either from human skin or often from trace quantities in the air (or
large quantities if one lives in diesel-soaked London.).


Interesting that sugar is quite a good abrasive, as is bicarbonate of
soda, but nothing IME makes the job any easier


I don't know if you are random word associating


I have nothing better to do

, but sugar soap has

nothing to do with sugar.


Sugar with soap (or washing up liquid)is a damned fine hand cleaner as
it happens, and it's reasonable to suppose its abrasive qualities were
not unknown to decorators. Then again, maybe someone just decided "sugar
soap" was a great name for something that had nothing to do with sugar.

And bicarbonate of soda works pretty much like sugar soap in that it will solubilise lipids.

I believe sugar soap is now based on a fairly insipid detergent rather
than the phosphates it used to consist of.
Bicarb is sparingly soluble in water, hence its effectiveness as a mild
abrasive in a paste.


This is an interesting discussion, I painted some woodwork last year
using DPBW and I am about to do some more as I decorate other rooms
this month. But I have noticed that the wood I re-painted last year
looks no brighter now than wood that I am about to re-paint that is a
few years old.

Is there a reason that even DPBW yellows so quickly. Im almost
wondering whether there is any point in painting it anway since it
will look the same next year as it does now! Is it in my prep or the
paint I wonder!

Rajeev

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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

jal wrote:


Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.


I HATE "Glossing", not so much the actual painting but the sheer
effort involved in keeping everything clean (ie brushes after painting,
carpet whilst it is on going, wall paper if leaving it on after painting
etc.)
Your method sounds like a plan, however you may also want to knock of
any "snots" (collections of paint around e.g. a piece of lint)and give
everything (that is to be glossed) a light sanding (possibly a "£20
special" sander from Lidl).
Best of the lot is an empty room. Ceiling to be painted, walls to be
papered. Ceiling gets emulsioned, letting a *little" paint cover the
top of the wall then Gloss the woodwork letting a *little* paint cover
the wall then paper any where the trimming is just a tad tight the wee
bit extra paint shows through (the ceiling or woodwork colour) and
doesn't catch the eye so much. The glossing is so much easier if carpet
or masking is not involved.
--
www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?


"jal" wrote in message
...
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


I second John Evans's suggestion of liquid sander. The only one I've seen on
sale is I think called Easy Sand and is made by International. Works well
and avoids the dust from sanding which I hate.


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

rrh wrote:
"jal" wrote in message
...
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


I second John Evans's suggestion of liquid sander. The only one I've seen on
sale is I think called Easy Sand and is made by International. Works well
and avoids the dust from sanding which I hate.



I don't know that it does anything much at all other than slightly
polish the surface. If it doesn't attack the finish in any way and
powders off if you dust the surface, what use is it?


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"soup" wrote in message
k...
jal wrote:


Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking:

a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat

Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.


I HATE "Glossing", not so much the actual painting but the sheer
effort involved in keeping everything clean (ie brushes after

painting,
carpet whilst it is on going, wall paper if leaving it on after

painting
etc.)


SNIP


I've totally given up washing gloss paint brushes. At the end of the
day I wrap them tightly in cling film. Next day I smooth them out with
a rag soaked in white spirit and carry on painting. At the end of the
job the brush gets thrown away and a new one bought for the next job.
Saves a huges amount of time and considerable amounts of white spirit.

AWEM


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?


"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news
rrh wrote:
"jal" wrote in message
...
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John


I second John Evans's suggestion of liquid sander. The only one I've seen
on sale is I think called Easy Sand and is made by International. Works
well and avoids the dust from sanding which I hate.


I don't know that it does anything much at all other than slightly polish
the surface. If it doesn't attack the finish in any way and powders off if
you dust the surface, what use is it?


I think it does attack the finish. It certainly takes a bit of the shine off
gloss. The instructions say paint within 6 hours for best results. That
implies to me that it softens the finish or in some other way makes it
better as a surface for new paint.


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

rrh wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
news
rrh wrote:
"jal" wrote in message
...
I really hate painting gloss. Trouble is, all the woodwork in our (60s)
house is painted white, and it's mostly looking grubby now, so I'm going
to have to re-paint it all. There's bloody miles of it, plus some big
panels on the stairs.

Is Sugar Soap good enough to prepare the surfaces? I'm thinking: a good
wash with Sugar Soap (and presumably a good rinse); undercoat Dulux
Professional Brilliant White; topcoat DPBW.

Can I get away with that?

John
I second John Evans's suggestion of liquid sander. The only one I've seen
on sale is I think called Easy Sand and is made by International. Works
well and avoids the dust from sanding which I hate.

I don't know that it does anything much at all other than slightly polish
the surface. If it doesn't attack the finish in any way and powders off if
you dust the surface, what use is it?


I think it does attack the finish. It certainly takes a bit of the shine off
gloss. The instructions say paint within 6 hours for best results. That
implies to me that it softens the finish or in some other way makes it
better as a surface for new paint.



If it attacked the surface, it would have to contain a strong solvent.
AFAIK these products are simply fine abrasives in a gel. Any abrading is
done by the user in the removal of the dried film, so you might as well
sand in the first place
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Andrew Mawson wrote:

I've totally given up washing gloss paint brushes. At the end of the
job the brush gets thrown away and a new one bought for the next job.


I must admit that tends to happen with me too. I start with lots of
good intentions that I am going to clean these brushes but every time
when I am finished the brushes get the Heave-Ho.
The only trouble with this approach is that if you get good brushes
it's money down the drain and if you get cheapo brushes the finish is
not as good as desired.
Does anyone have a (cheap and easy) method of cleaning Gloss brushes
that doesn't involve gallons and gallons of white spirit (are there any
P&Ds in the house)?

--
www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

On Wed, 01 Aug 2007 10:24:56 -0700,
wrote:

On Aug 1, 5:10 pm, Stuart Noble
wrote:
Steve Firth wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:


Sugar soap is really designed to remove grease and other alkali soluble
gunk, and I don't think many of us live like that nowadays.


Most of what sticks dirt togther is grease of some form or another.
Either from human skin or often from trace quantities in the air (or
large quantities if one lives in diesel-soaked London.).


Interesting that sugar is quite a good abrasive, as is bicarbonate of
soda, but nothing IME makes the job any easier


I don't know if you are random word associating


I have nothing better to do

, but sugar soap has

nothing to do with sugar.


Sugar with soap (or washing up liquid)is a damned fine hand cleaner as
it happens, and it's reasonable to suppose its abrasive qualities were
not unknown to decorators. Then again, maybe someone just decided "sugar
soap" was a great name for something that had nothing to do with sugar.

And bicarbonate of soda works pretty much like sugar soap in that it will solubilise lipids.

I believe sugar soap is now based on a fairly insipid detergent rather
than the phosphates it used to consist of.
Bicarb is sparingly soluble in water, hence its effectiveness as a mild
abrasive in a paste.


This is an interesting discussion, I painted some woodwork last year
using DPBW and I am about to do some more as I decorate other rooms
this month. But I have noticed that the wood I re-painted last year
looks no brighter now than wood that I am about to re-paint that is a
few years old.

Is there a reason that even DPBW yellows so quickly. Im almost
wondering whether there is any point in painting it anway since it
will look the same next year as it does now! Is it in my prep or the
paint I wonder!

Rajeev


It's because it's an oil based paint and your rooms must be quite
dark!

Water based paints are much less liable to yellowing, although it's
harder to get a decent finish with them. Oil based paints discolour
less if they are in the light.


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If it attacked the surface, it would have to contain a strong solvent.
AFAIK these products are simply fine abrasives in a gel. Any abrading is
done by the user in the removal of the dried film, so you might as well
sand in the first place


I'm sorry, but you are completely wrong. These products are completely
liquid; no gel, no abrasive. They DO attack the surface, and it is
wise to wear chemical proof gloves when using these products. "Sugar
Soap" is a trade name for finely ground Sodium Carbonate (Washing
Soda). I find that the best results are obtained if the solution is
applied with the type of kitchen sponge that has the green
"Scotchbrite" face; this increases the penetration of the solution. It
is very important that the surface is thoroughly rinsed after using
the solution.

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In message
"Andrew Mawson" wrote:


I've totally given up washing gloss paint brushes. At the end of the
day I wrap them tightly in cling film. Next day I smooth them out with
a rag soaked in white spirit and carry on painting. At the end of the
job the brush gets thrown away and a new one bought for the next job.
Saves a huges amount of time and considerable amounts of white spirit.

AWEM


Interesting tip, but I wouldn't like to throw my brushes away as I've
had some of them for over twenty years, although I don't tend to mix
household synthetic oil paints with vehicle coach enamels as the
household paints tend to silt up the stock quite quickly.

I have other brushes reserved only for emulsions, cleaning is a pain but
worth it on expensive brushes, but I do recycle white spirit etc for
future use.

Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
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On 1 Aug, 20:29, soup wrote:
Andrew Mawson wrote:
I've totally given up washing gloss paint brushes. At the end of the
job the brush gets thrown away and a new one bought for the next job.


I must admit that tends to happen with me too. I start with lots of
good intentions that I am going to clean these brushes but every time
when I am finished the brushes get the Heave-Ho.
The only trouble with this approach is that if you get good brushes
it's money down the drain and if you get cheapo brushes the finish is
not as good as desired.
Does anyone have a (cheap and easy) method of cleaning Gloss brushes
that doesn't involve gallons and gallons of white spirit (are there any
P&Ds in the house)?

--www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk


Go to a trade supplier e.g. Brewers, and buy a professional's brush
store. It wont clean your brushes, but if you put a wet brush into one
it will be ready for use the next time you need it, even if it's a
year later. The only time I clean a brush is when I've been using a
colour I know I'm not likely to use again.

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In message
"rrh" wrote:

I don't know that it does anything much at all other than slightly polish
the surface. If it doesn't attack the finish in any way and powders off if
you dust the surface, what use is it?


I think it does attack the finish. It certainly takes a bit of the shine off
gloss. The instructions say paint within 6 hours for best results. That
implies to me that it softens the finish or in some other way makes it
better as a surface for new paint.


Flatting gloss paint usually does soften the surface and there is a time
scale that the prepared surface should be painted within, it is not
unusual to paint within say six hours after flatting.
Fresh paint applied over the top will have a better bond during this
time scale (which differs with certain paints), the bonding will not be
as strong if the area is painted after the time scale and the prepared
paint has had time to fully harden again.

This is often called "breathing time" in the trade where a paint is
allowed to breath or harden usually after a good wet flatting.

Stephen.


--
http://www.stephen.hull.btinternet.co.uk
Coach painting tips and techniques + Land Rover colour codes
Using a British RISC Operating System 100% immune to any Windows virus.
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble". Henry Royce
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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

This is an interesting discussion, I painted some woodwork last year
using DPBW and I am about to do some more as I decorate other rooms
this month. But I have noticed that the wood I re-painted last year
looks no brighter now than wood that I am about to re-paint that is a
few years old.

Is there a reason that even DPBW yellows so quickly. Im almost
wondering whether there is any point in painting it anway since it
will look the same next year as it does now! Is it in my prep or the
paint I wonder!

Rajeev


BW paint was brought out in the 60s for external use. It contains
certain additives derived from titanium that are beneficially affected
by ultra violet light, in that the UV keeps the paint from yellowing.
The effect is reversible by subjecting the yellowed paint to a UV
light source, E.G. a tanning lamp. In my own home I use only normal
white paint such as Dulux Trade White Paint. I prefer customers who
specify BW as I know that I'll be back to them to repaint a lot
sooner!




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soup wrote:
Andrew Mawson wrote:

I've totally given up washing gloss paint brushes. At the end of the
job the brush gets thrown away and a new one bought for the next job.


I must admit that tends to happen with me too. I start with lots of
good intentions that I am going to clean these brushes but every time
when I am finished the brushes get the Heave-Ho.
The only trouble with this approach is that if you get good brushes
it's money down the drain and if you get cheapo brushes the finish is
not as good as desired.
Does anyone have a (cheap and easy) method of cleaning Gloss brushes
that doesn't involve gallons and gallons of white spirit (are there any
P&Ds in the house)?


I keep a 2 litre container of WS just for brush washing. The solids
collect at the bottom so it can be reused almost indefinitely. Doesn't
get them 100% clean, but washing up liquid and hot water does the rest.

Bought a pack of 7 brushes in the Pound Shop the other day. The 2" got
me through half a litre of oil paint on to masonry without shedding its
bristles
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Mr Fuxit wrote:
If it attacked the surface, it would have to contain a strong solvent.
AFAIK these products are simply fine abrasives in a gel. Any abrading is
done by the user in the removal of the dried film, so you might as well
sand in the first place


I'm sorry, but you are completely wrong. These products are completely
liquid; no gel, no abrasive.


You're referring to liquid sanders now? Those I've used are gelled to
stop them running off the surface. How else could you apply them to
vertical surfaces?

They DO attack the surface, and it is
wise to wear chemical proof gloves when using these products.


How do they attack the surface. If by alkali action, they would have no
effect on acrylics.

"Sugar
Soap" is a trade name for finely ground Sodium Carbonate (Washing
Soda).


Until recently it was mainly a trade name for trisodium phosphate.
Finely ground soda wouldn't stay fine for long given its hygroscopic
nature, which is why it isn't supplied in that form.

I find that the best results are obtained if the solution is
applied with the type of kitchen sponge that has the green
"Scotchbrite" face; this increases the penetration of the solution. It
is very important that the surface is thoroughly rinsed after using
the solution.

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Mr Fuxit wrote:
wise to wear chemical proof gloves when using these products. "Sugar
Soap" is a trade name for finely ground Sodium Carbonate (Washing
Soda). I find that the best results are obtained if the solution is
applied with the type of kitchen sponge that has the green
"Scotchbrite" face; this increases the penetration of the solution. It
is very important that the surface is thoroughly rinsed after using
the solution.


Leyland SDM do decorators versions of the 'Scotchbrite' scourers in 3
grades soft/normal/hard these are much bigger 12"x4" than the kitchen
version. work very well with sugar soap.

Why gloss and Brilliant white, personally I prefer a flatter finish and
a more natural rather than a fluorescent 'whiter than white' look.


--
djc
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Mr Fuxit wrote:

"Sugar Soap" is a trade name for finely ground Sodium Carbonate (Washing
Soda).


Not quite:

Material Safety Data Sheet

SACHET & PACKAGING SERVICES LTD
SAFETY PRODUCT DATA SHEET
(in accordance with EEC Directive 91/155/EEC)

1.0 IDENTIFICATION OF PRODUCT/MANUFACTURE AND COMPANY

1.1 PRODUCT NAME / CODE : Sugar Soap Powder
[snip]

2.0 COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS

2.1 Blend of Sodium Sesquicarbonate, Sodium Alkylbenzene Sulphonate (&)
Sodium Tripolyphosphate.

Some blends include sodium silicate as a mild abrasive.
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On 2007-08-01 14:01:22 +0100, Owain said:

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do
something you find incredibly tedious.


On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...

Unless it's ironing, of course.

Owain


You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it or not?




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Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-01 14:01:22 +0100, Owain said:

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do
something you find incredibly tedious.


On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...

Unless it's ironing, of course.

Owain


You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it or
not?



Do people still iron things? I see no benefit to ironing bed linen and,
if Roman Abramovich doesn't iron his shirts, why should I?
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On 2007-08-03 10:36:46 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-01 14:01:22 +0100, Owain said:

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do
something you find incredibly tedious.

On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...

Unless it's ironing, of course.

Owain


You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it or not?



Do people still iron things? I see no benefit to ironing bed linen and,
if Roman Abramovich doesn't iron his shirts, why should I?


Yes, but I'd always thought of you as having more class than Roman.


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Default Sugar Soap -- good enough?

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-03 10:36:46 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-01 14:01:22 +0100, Owain
said:

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do
something you find incredibly tedious.

On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...

Unless it's ironing, of course.

Owain

You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it
or not?



Do people still iron things? I see no benefit to ironing bed linen
and, if Roman Abramovich doesn't iron his shirts, why should I?


Yes, but I'd always thought of you as having more class than Roman.


I think he has the edge. That vagrant look isn't easy
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Owain wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...
Unless it's ironing, of course.

You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it
or not?


You know she really loves you when she uses a sleeve board on your
shirts...


Only my mother ever did that
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"Andy Hall" wrote in message
...
On 2007-08-03 10:36:46 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-08-01 14:01:22 +0100, Owain
said:

Mungo "Two Sheds" Toadfoot wrote:
Yup. There's no shame, even in a DIY group, paying someone to do
something you find incredibly tedious.

On the other hand, if you're paying someone to do something the wife
finds incredibly tedious ...

Unless it's ironing, of course.

Owain

You mean that they should always do the ironing whether they like it or
not?



Do people still iron things? I see no benefit to ironing bed linen and,
if Roman Abramovich doesn't iron his shirts, why should I?


Yes, but I'd always thought of you as having more class than Roman.



Beware....he may be a 'Greek' bearing/baring gifts! ;-)

Don.


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