Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times protect it
from the weather elments?

TIA

On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 18:40:55 GMT, "George"
wrote:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times protect it
from the weather elments?

TIA

Yes but it must be done regularly every few months to maintain the
coat of wax. Also wax combines with dust to produce a dirty coat, so
you have to buff it up very regularly. Better to use an oil like teak
oil on it.

"EricP" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 18:40:55 GMT, "George"
wrote:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I
dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times protect
it
from the weather elments?

TIA

Yes but it must be done regularly every few months to maintain the
coat of wax. Also wax combines with dust to produce a dirty coat, so
you have to buff it up very regularly. Better to use an oil lis for
sinking my boat MrPke teak
oil on it.

Thanks for sinking my boat MrP :-P

I had a blonde moment if I did wax it? would mean it cant be painted over in
the future. doh!

On 2007-07-07 19:40:55 +0100, "George" said:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times protect it
from the weather elments?

TIA

An oil and wax would be better because it will penetrate the wood more
effectively. I personally think that it's a sacrilege to varnish a
good quality hardwood, especially with a gloss varnish - one might as
well have installed PVC. Ergo, I've done the stain, oil, wax
treatment on my oak entrance doors. Initial treatment is three
coats of oil and wax 24hrs apart. Apply with a brush and wipe off
excess after about 10 minutes. Don't flood the wood.

The only minor issue is that it does need attention at least every six
months - in an exposed position to sun or rain, possibly every 4.
The grime should be cleaned off using a cloth dampened in warm
detergent and water and wrung out. Then rinse. Don't be tempted to
use white spirit since that is a solvent for the oil and wax
preparations and will tend to cause the grime to soak into the wood.

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

I use it for interior oak joinery as well. It's relatively expensive
at around £45 for 5 litres last time I bought some, but it goes a very
long way. That quantity lasts me for 2 years for exterior doors,
interior doors, staircase and floors in two rooms.

On 2007-07-07 20:29:48 +0100, "George" said:


"EricP" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 18:40:55 GMT, "George"
wrote:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I
dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times protect
it
from the weather elments?

TIA

Yes but it must be done regularly every few months to maintain the
coat of wax. Also wax combines with dust to produce a dirty coat, so
you have to buff it up very regularly. Better to use an oil lis for
sinking my boat MrPke teak
oil on it.

Thanks for sinking my boat MrP :-P

I had a blonde moment if I did wax it? would mean it cant be painted over in
the future. doh!

Why ever would you want to paint it?

On Sat, 07 Jul 2007 19:29:48 GMT, "George"
wrote:

Thanks for sinking my boat MrP :-P

I had a blonde moment if I did wax it? would mean it cant be painted over in
the future. doh!


Wash it down with turps/substitute to remove surface wax and use an
oil based paint. But it would be doing a disservice to the door, and
might not take well..

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-07 19:40:55 +0100, "George" said:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I
dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times
protect it
from the weather elments?

TIA

An oil and wax would be better because it will penetrate the wood more
effectively. I personally think that it's a sacrilege to varnish a
good quality hardwood, especially with a gloss varnish - one might as
well have installed PVC. Ergo, I've done the stain, oil, wax treatment
on my oak entrance doors. Initial treatment is three coats of oil
and wax 24hrs apart. Apply with a brush and wipe off excess after
about 10 minutes. Don't flood the wood.

The only minor issue is that it does need attention at least every six
months - in an exposed position to sun or rain, possibly every 4.
The grime should be cleaned off using a cloth dampened in warm detergent
and water and wrung out. Then rinse. Don't be tempted to use white
spirit since that is a solvent for the oil and wax preparations and will
tend to cause the grime to soak into the wood.

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php


One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

Do Screwfix sell the exterior door weather strips? I'll be damned if I can
find them on their site.


George

Hi,

You may find the Colron dye fades as it's not pigment based.

Maybe best to use oil and see how things go for now, if the door gets
direct sun an oil with UV absorbers would be best.

cheers,
Pete.

On 8 Jul, 12:34, Stuart Noble wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-07 19:40:55 +0100, "George" said:

Stained with Coloron wood dye(the proper way to stain wood) however I
dont
wish to varnish over it so will waxing the door over a few times
protect it
from the weather elments?

TIA

An oil and wax would be better because it will penetrate the wood more
effectively. I personally think that it's a sacrilege to varnish a
good quality hardwood, especially with a gloss varnish - one might as
well have installed PVC. Ergo, I've done the stain, oil, wax treatment
on my oak entrance doors. Initial treatment is three coats of oil
and wax 24hrs apart. Apply with a brush and wipe off excess after
about 10 minutes. Don't flood the wood.

The only minor issue is that it does need attention at least every six
months - in an exposed position to sun or rain, possibly every 4.
The grime should be cleaned off using a cloth dampened in warm detergent
and water and wrung out. Then rinse. Don't be tempted to use white
spirit since that is a solvent for the oil and wax preparations and will
tend to cause the grime to soak into the wood.

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

In answer to my own post.......
"Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle
oil, plus two hard, natural waxes, carnauba and candelilla"

which sounds like a dog's dinner. The oils are non-drying and the
waxes insoluble. I don't think I'd want that particular combination of
natural ingredients on my woodwork

On 2007-07-09 17:56:10 +0100, "
said:

On 8 Jul, 12:34, Stuart Noble wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

In answer to my own post.......
"Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle
oil, plus two hard, natural waxes, carnauba and candelilla"

which sounds like a dog's dinner. The oils are non-drying and the
waxes insoluble. I don't think I'd want that particular combination of
natural ingredients on my woodwork

The term actually covers a range of possible preparations. Most
likely, it is carnauba wax in this case. In any event, the waxes
certainly are soluble and they are drying as well.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-09 17:56:10 +0100, "
said:

On 8 Jul, 12:34, Stuart Noble wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

In answer to my own post.......
"Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle
oil, plus two hard, natural waxes, carnauba and candelilla"

which sounds like a dog's dinner. The oils are non-drying and the
waxes insoluble. I don't think I'd want that particular combination of
natural ingredients on my woodwork

The term actually covers a range of possible preparations. Most
likely, it is carnauba wax in this case.

In any event, the waxes
certainly are soluble and they are drying as well.

"Carnauba wax is typical of the hard waxes that have the highest melting
points among waxes of plant origin. It is soluble in chloroform,ether
and petroleum benzene when hot, but only sparingly soluble when it is cold".
i.e. to all intents and purposes it is insoluble at room temperature.

For wood finishing it's a question of whether the *oils* are of the
"drying" type. At best these are "semi-drying", which means they
solidify to a degree over time, but never fully dry the way tung or
linseed does.

On 2007-07-09 19:14:43 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-09 17:56:10 +0100, "
said:

On 8 Jul, 12:34, Stuart Noble wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

In answer to my own post.......
"Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle
oil, plus two hard, natural waxes, carnauba and candelilla"

which sounds like a dog's dinner. The oils are non-drying and the
waxes insoluble. I don't think I'd want that particular combination of
natural ingredients on my woodwork

The term actually covers a range of possible preparations. Most
likely, it is carnauba wax in this case.

In any event, the waxes
certainly are soluble and they are drying as well.

"Carnauba wax is typical of the hard waxes that have the highest
melting points among waxes of plant origin. It is soluble in
chloroform,ether and petroleum benzene when hot, but only sparingly
soluble when it is cold".
i.e. to all intents and purposes it is insoluble at room temperature.

For wood finishing it's a question of whether the *oils* are of the
"drying" type.

Obviously.


At best these are "semi-drying", which means they solidify to a degree
over time, but never fully dry the way tung or linseed does.

This product also contains linseed oil and turpentine..... It is
certainly drying and does a good job.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-09 19:14:43 +0100, Stuart Noble
said:

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-07-09 17:56:10 +0100, "
said:

On 8 Jul, 12:34, Stuart Noble wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

Then you can give the door two coats of oil and wax. The whole
exercise can be completed for a door in half an hour, tops, so
it's not
a huge burden.

This product is particularly good

http://www.oakdoors.co.uk/_hard_wax_oil_uk.php

One wonders what a "natural", "hard wax oil" might consist of, since
hard waxes are all but insoluble at room temperature.

In answer to my own post.......
"Key ingredients in Hardwax Oil include sunflower, soybean and thistle
oil, plus two hard, natural waxes, carnauba and candelilla"

which sounds like a dog's dinner. The oils are non-drying and the
waxes insoluble. I don't think I'd want that particular combination of
natural ingredients on my woodwork

The term actually covers a range of possible preparations. Most
likely, it is carnauba wax in this case.

In any event, the waxes
certainly are soluble and they are drying as well.

"Carnauba wax is typical of the hard waxes that have the highest
melting points among waxes of plant origin. It is soluble in
chloroform,ether and petroleum benzene when hot, but only sparingly
soluble when it is cold".
i.e. to all intents and purposes it is insoluble at room temperature.

For wood finishing it's a question of whether the *oils* are of the
"drying" type.

Obviously.

It doesn't seem to be obvious to the makers of Osmo Polyx Oil (Hardwax
Oil), whose product is based on 3 non-drying oils (and 2 insoluble waxes).
Call me a cynic but I think they forgot to mention "snake" in their list
of ingredients


At best these are "semi-drying", which means they solidify to a degree
over time, but never fully dry the way tung or linseed does.

This product also contains linseed oil and turpentine..... It is
certainly drying and does a good job.