Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
--
Vass
'02 R1, '90 CBR1000F
www.doubleyolk.co.uk
www.haylinglegends.co.uk

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA

Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA

Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

Stuart Noble wrote:

Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

Instead you get those that look like half a biscuit and you use a
biscuit joiner to cut the slot. Don't look very strong to me. And of
course if they sold round cornered hinges nobody could sell those corner
chisels you hit with a hammer. Anyone would think chisels needed such
skill to use...

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Thu, 21 Jun 2007 13:12:15 GMT, Stuart Noble
mused:

Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

You have been able to for years, all the hinges in this house have
rounded corners and are fitted to frames and doors made off site and
just screwed into the openings on site. The house was built in 1980.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On Jun 21, 12:28 pm, "Vass" wrote:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
--
Vass
'02 R1, '90 CBR1000Fwww.doubleyolk.co.ukwww.haylinglegends.co. uk

Hi,

If just one door, I scribe out the hinge rebates, and use a 1/4"
router/bit to very carefully rout to about 1/8" in from the scribed
line, then finish off to the line with a sharp chisel.

I find it's best to go to rout 1/4" from the line then take off
another 1/8", the router is much more controllable freehand when
removing wood on only one side of the bit IYSWIM. Well worth a little
practice on some scrap.

What I like is the router does the rebate to the exact depth needed.
What I do sometimes is make a template for drilling /pilot/ holes for
the hinge screws, that I can drop in the hinge recess and drill
through.

cheers,
Pete.

Stuart Noble wrote:

Peter Ashby wrote:

Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA

Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig


And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter


Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

Get square cornered hinges and a file and a few minutes work and you
have round ended hinges. Simple :-)

I wonder why I didn't think of doing that years ago, when I bought a
router? Frowns and thinks again.

Dave

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass"
said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

File them round :-) you can buy the corner punch for finishing off

http://tinyurl.com/ywuzeb

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass"
said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

No need,you can buy cutters for the corners they come in 2mm and 3mm quite
adequate as I have 1 of each.

"Pete C" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 21, 12:28 pm, "Vass" wrote:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door
If just one door, I scribe out the hinge rebates, and use a 1/4"
router/bit to very carefully rout to about 1/8" in from the scribed
line, then finish off to the line with a sharp chisel.

I find it's best to go to rout 1/4" from the line then take off
another 1/8", the router is much more controllable freehand when
removing wood on only one side of the bit IYSWIM. Well worth a little
practice on some scrap.

What I like is the router does the rebate to the exact depth needed.
What I do sometimes is make a template for drilling /pilot/ holes for
the hinge screws, that I can drop in the hinge recess and drill
through.


all good, thanks Pete
--
Vass

Pete C wrote:
On Jun 21, 12:28 pm, "Vass" wrote:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
--
Vass
'02 R1, '90 CBR1000Fwww.doubleyolk.co.ukwww.haylinglegends.co. uk

Hi,

If just one door, I scribe out the hinge rebates, and use a 1/4"
router/bit to very carefully rout to about 1/8" in from the scribed
line, then finish off to the line with a sharp chisel.

I find it's best to go to rout 1/4" from the line then take off
another 1/8", the router is much more controllable freehand when
removing wood on only one side of the bit IYSWIM. Well worth a little
practice on some scrap.

What I like is the router does the rebate to the exact depth needed.
What I do sometimes is make a template for drilling /pilot/ holes for
the hinge screws, that I can drop in the hinge recess and drill
through.

cheers,
Pete.

Far easier and cheaper just to use a marking gauge, a very sharp chisel and
a hammer (mallet if using wooden handled chisels) to cut the hinge
housings - you have to use 'em on the frame anyway (unless you are
prefabricating door and frame sets on the bench) - BTW all the listed tools
are of a very good quality.

The same for the lock and latch housings, with the addition of the good old
fashioned 'brace and bit' to drill the necessary holes - youngsters of today
would be lost without 'lectric to drive their new fangled and sometimes very
expensive 'use once and throw in the cupboard' power tools! LMAO

I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges unless it was
in the workshop and then only on a fairly long production run of door and
frame sets.


Brian G

Stuart Noble wrote:
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

You can get a corner chisel :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...sfile=1&jump=0



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Brian G" wrote in message

I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges unless it
was
in the workshop and then only on a fairly long production run of door and
frame sets.


Brian G



Behave yourself a novice with a router can give you more accuracy and
precision flatness for a hinge rebate than the same person who's never held
a chisel and hammer to do carpentry work

The craftsman of yesteryear would died for todays electric gizmos and thats
a fact.

George wrote:
"Brian G" wrote in message

I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges unless
it was in the workshop and then only on a fairly long production run
of door and frame sets.


Brian G



Behave yourself a novice with a router can give you more accuracy and
precision flatness for a hinge rebate than the same person who's
never held a chisel and hammer to do carpentry work

The craftsman of yesteryear would died for todays electric gizmos and
thats a fact.

George,

I am a "craftsman of yesteryear" (well over 40 years in fact) and qualified
to Advanced City and Guilds level (when they meant something) along with the
Institute of Certified Carpenters certificate ( you've got to be certified
to be a 'chippie' anyway) LOL and I must admit that the only tools I would
ever have metaphorically "died" for are the modern day electric drills and
decent a portable table saw.

Even now though, I do most of my work literally by hand - and I find far
more enjoyment and satisfaction in doing so!

Ah but never mind! At least after I took early retirement some years ago, I
took several fairly long full and part-time training courses at the local
college to learn how to play with, build and repair that new fangled
invention called the computer - along with an equivalent M.O.U.S (Microsoft
Office Users Specialist) qualification to advanced level (and other
applications) just to 'bring me into the modern age' - but I still have to
get my son to set up the damned DVD player :-)

Brian G

On 21 Jun, 21:07, "Brian G" wrote:
Pete C wrote:
On Jun 21, 12:28 pm, "Vass" wrote:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
--
Vass
'02 R1, '90 CBR1000Fwww.doubleyolk.co.ukwww.haylinglegends.co. uk

Hi,

If just one door, I scribe out the hinge rebates, and use a 1/4"
router/bit to very carefully rout to about 1/8" in from the scribed
line, then finish off to the line with a sharp chisel.

I find it's best to go to rout 1/4" from the line then take off
another 1/8", the router is much more controllable freehand when
removing wood on only one side of the bit IYSWIM. Well worth a little
practice on some scrap.

What I like is the router does the rebate to the exact depth needed.
What I do sometimes is make a template for drilling /pilot/ holes for
the hinge screws, that I can drop in the hinge recess and drill
through.

cheers,
Pete.

Far easier and cheaper just to use a marking gauge, a very sharp chisel and
a hammer (mallet if using wooden handled chisels) to cut the hinge
housings - you have to use 'em on the frame anyway (unless you are
prefabricating door and frame sets on the bench) - BTW all the listed tools
are of a very good quality.

The same for the lock and latch housings, with the addition of the good old
fashioned 'brace and bit' to drill the necessary holes - youngsters of today
would be lost without 'lectric to drive their new fangled and sometimes very
expensive 'use once and throw in the cupboard' power tools! LMAO

I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges unless it was
in the workshop and then only on a fairly long production run of door and
frame sets.

Brian G

Absolutely agree with that. Taken the words out of my mouth!

cheers
Jacob

On 21 Jun, 21:18, John Rumm wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

You can get a corner chisel :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=corner+chisel...

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

cheers
Jacob

On 21 Jun, 17:59, Pete C wrote:
On Jun 21, 12:28 pm, "Vass" wrote:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
--
Vass
'02 R1, '90 CBR1000Fwww.doubleyolk.co.ukwww.haylinglegends.co. uk

Hi,

If just one door, I scribe out the hinge rebates, and use a 1/4"
router/bit to very carefully rout to about 1/8" in from the scribed
line, then finish off to the line with a sharp chisel.

I find it's best to go to rout 1/4" from the line then take off
another 1/8", the router is much more controllable freehand when
removing wood on only one side of the bit IYSWIM. Well worth a little
practice on some scrap.

What I like is the router does the rebate to the exact depth needed.
What I do sometimes is make a template for drilling /pilot/ holes for
the hinge screws, that I can drop in the hinge recess and drill
through.

cheers,
Pete.

Thats a long winded roundabout sort of way - if you can finish with a
chisel why not start with a chisel? Much quicker believe me, and the
depth no prob if marked up with guage and square.
And why not use the hinge itself as the template?

cheers
Jacob

normanwisdom wrote:

On 21 Jun, 21:18, John Rumm wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:

On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:

Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.

Trend among others manufacture a jig

And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.

Peter

Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days

You can get a corner chisel :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=corner+chisel...

--

Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

Agreed, if people knew how to use a chisel they wouldn't need a thing
like that.

Peter

--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

Peter Ashby wrote:
normanwisdom wrote:

On 21 Jun, 21:18, John Rumm wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass" said:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.
Trend among others manufacture a jig
And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.
Peter
Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days
You can get a corner chisel :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=corner+chisel...

--
Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

Agreed, if people knew how to use a chisel they wouldn't need a thing
like that.

Makes sense in a production environment - get results more quickly, and
you don't need to fork out for someone who does know how to use a chisel.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Brian G wrote:

Far easier and cheaper just to use a marking gauge, a very sharp chisel and
a hammer (mallet if using wooden handled chisels) to cut the hinge
housings - you have to use 'em on the frame anyway (unless you are
prefabricating door and frame sets on the bench) - BTW all the listed tools
are of a very good quality.

Most of the hinge jigs I have seen let you use them in situ on the frame
as well as the door.

The same for the lock and latch housings, with the addition of the good old
fashioned 'brace and bit' to drill the necessary holes - youngsters of today
would be lost without 'lectric to drive their new fangled and sometimes very
expensive 'use once and throw in the cupboard' power tools! LMAO

Most of the old school I have seen in action use the new fangled
cordless drill in place of the brace and bit" ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

John Rumm wrote:

Peter Ashby wrote:
normanwisdom wrote:

On 21 Jun, 21:18, John Rumm wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
Peter Ashby wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-06-21 12:28:31 +0100, "Vass"
said:
Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges on the door
and
frame?
plus the door catch recess's
any links to jigs or methods
TIA
Yes.
Trend among others manufacture a jig
And our local B&Q warehouse stocks them. If you balk at the prices, a
piece of harboard, a saw and guide collar for the router (also at the
above B&Q) and you can make your own. Mind you for all that cost, time
and effort you could have done it with a chisel.
Peter
Pity you can't get hinges with rounded corners. Maybe you can these days
You can get a corner chisel :

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.a...=corner+chisel...

--
Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

Agreed, if people knew how to use a chisel they wouldn't need a thing
like that.

Makes sense in a production environment - get results more quickly, and
you don't need to fork out for someone who does know how to use a chisel.

True, but this is uk.d-i-y, diy is not usually associated with
production environments. For a diyer or a home woodworker such tools are
essentially vanity items. The OP indicated he had one door to do, he
seems to have a router. For that job a commercial hinge jig is way OTT.
At most the suggestion of using the router freehand to leave the line is
the most practical use of a router, anything more is ridiculous.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Jun 22, 10:53 am, (Peter Ashby) wrote:
The OP indicated he had one door to do, he

No, he said "Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges
on the door and frame" which doesn't indicate the quantity.

seems to have a router. For that job a commercial hinge jig is way OTT.
At most the suggestion of using the router freehand to leave the line is
the most practical use of a router, anything more is ridiculous.

The most practical use would be to make a jig and use that. Freehand
routing is a recipe for a disaster for an inexperienced user, which I
assume the OP is, otherwise he wouldn't be asking the question.

MBQ

On 22 Jun, 11:18, "
wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:53 am, (Peter Ashby) wrote:

The OP indicated he had one door to do, he

No, he said "Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges
on the door and frame" which doesn't indicate the quantity.

seems to have a router. For that job a commercial hinge jig is way OTT.
At most the suggestion of using the router freehand to leave the line is
the most practical use of a router, anything more is ridiculous.

The most practical use would be to make a jig and use that. Freehand
routing is a recipe for a disaster for an inexperienced user, which I
assume the OP is, otherwise he wouldn't be asking the question.

MBQ

Yebbut you'd have to buy/make/adapt a jig for every size hinge you are
likely to use
the corners aren't square so you'd still have to use a chisel
if you can use a chisel you don't need jig or router
difficult anyway to use a router on the rebate of a frame
if you have a hinge you don't need a template
it's much quicker with a chisel.
But on the rare occasions when I would use a router it'd most
definitely not be freehand but I'd take it right up to the line using
the router's fence, with chisel for the top and bottom of the hinge
leaf housing.

cheers
Jacob

On 2007-06-22 13:13:58 +0100, normanwisdom said:

On 22 Jun, 11:18, "
wrote:
On Jun 22, 10:53 am, (Peter Ashby) wrote:

The OP indicated he had one door to do, he

No, he said "Can you use a router to make the recess for door hindges
on the door and frame" which doesn't indicate the quantity.

seems to have a router. For that job a commercial hinge jig is way OTT.
At most the suggestion of using the router freehand to leave the line is
the most practical use of a router, anything more is ridiculous.

The most practical use would be to make a jig and use that. Freehand
routing is a recipe for a disaster for an inexperienced user, which I
assume the OP is, otherwise he wouldn't be asking the question.

MBQ

Yebbut you'd have to buy/make/adapt a jig for every size hinge you are
likely to use
the corners aren't square so you'd still have to use a chisel
if you can use a chisel you don't need jig or router
difficult anyway to use a router on the rebate of a frame
if you have a hinge you don't need a template
it's much quicker with a chisel.
But on the rare occasions when I would use a router it'd most
definitely not be freehand but I'd take it right up to the line using
the router's fence, with chisel for the top and bottom of the hinge
leaf housing.

cheers
Jacob

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap material.

"Andy Hall" wrote in message

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap material.





Hmm! how does one clamp that jig to the door side on?

On 2007-06-22 14:24:49 +0100, "George" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap material.





Hmm! how does one clamp that jig to the door side on?

Normally some kind of simple L shaped jig.

Peter Ashby wrote:

Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

Agreed, if people knew how to use a chisel they wouldn't need a thing
like that.
Makes sense in a production environment - get results more quickly, and
you don't need to fork out for someone who does know how to use a chisel.

True, but this is uk.d-i-y, diy is not usually associated with
production environments. For a diyer or a home woodworker such tools are
essentially vanity items. The OP indicated he had one door to do, he

No, I disagree with that. A DIYer not particularly skilled in woodwork
may not be able to get an acceptable result with traditional hand tools
on this job, and yet ought to be able to archive very good results with
a router and jig. So it does not seem fair to describe it as a vanity item.

seems to have a router. For that job a commercial hinge jig is way OTT.

A commercial one may be, however knocking one up out of a bit of ply and
some 2x1" may be eminently sensible.

At most the suggestion of using the router freehand to leave the line is
the most practical use of a router, anything more is ridiculous.

Not really up to you to decide what is, or is not, reasonable for
someone else though is it?

Much depends on how much you value your time and the quality of the end
result. If I did not know how to cut the rebates by hand, then I might
be tempted to buy a commercial jig since it would give me top quality
results quickly, without having to waste time making a jig.

--
Cheers,

John.

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normanwisdom wrote:

Yebbut you'd have to buy/make/adapt a jig for every size hinge you are
likely to use

With a one off hand made jig, who cares once the job is done. With a
commercial jig it will adapt to any likely hinge size.

the corners aren't square so you'd still have to use a chisel
if you can use a chisel you don't need jig or router

Taking a corner out is not quite the same as cutting a whole rebate...


--
Cheers,

John.

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On Jun 22, 7:09 am, normanwisdom wrote:
On 21 Jun, 21:07, "Brian G" wrote:
I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges unless it was
in the workshop and then only on a fairly long production run of door and
frame sets.

Absolutely agree with that. Taken the words out of my mouth!

Whoa! What did the OP ask again?

I just said for a couple of hinges it's do-able without a jig *if* a
bit of care is taken.

I've seen a few dodgy chiselled hinge rebates done by tradesmen.

And I haven't seen many where the hinge screw slots line up perfectly,
LOL

cheers,
Pete.

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap material.

Looks like another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue (and every other
catalogue more or less)

Some bits of kit actually make the job harder and screw up your chance
of ever learning how to do it properly (or easily) - chief amongst
these being the honing jig/guide.


cheers
Jacob

John Rumm wrote:

Peter Ashby wrote:

Corner chisel is just another completely unnecessary bit of kit which
the likes of Axminster and co hope to sell to gullible amateurs -
which applies to about 90% of their catalogue.

Agreed, if people knew how to use a chisel they wouldn't need a thing
like that.
Makes sense in a production environment - get results more quickly, and
you don't need to fork out for someone who does know how to use a chisel.

True, but this is uk.d-i-y, diy is not usually associated with
production environments. For a diyer or a home woodworker such tools are
essentially vanity items. The OP indicated he had one door to do, he

No, I disagree with that. A DIYer not particularly skilled in woodwork
may not be able to get an acceptable result with traditional hand tools
on this job, and yet ought to be able to archive very good results with
a router and jig. So it does not seem fair to describe it as a vanity item.

I would have thought a router and jig cut archive would most definitely
be a vanity item. Compared to old fashioned acid free paper it would
suffer from being much more bulky as well as being prone to attack by
woodworm or termite, not to mention problems with distortion as the
humidity changed, though I suppose you could use mdf, be tougher on the
router bits and put the cost up, all in all I would have thought an
archive cut into granite with a chisel would outlast a wood based one
cut with a router and a jig.

Peter
--
Add my middle initial to email me. It has become attached to a country
www.the-brights.net

On Jun 22, 5:04 pm, Owain wrote:
They're not supposed to "line up" are they?

I thought they were supposed to be in a perfect 45deg chevron

/\
/\
/\
/\

4 hole hinges? Very posh!

I tend to do mine sloping the same way:

//
//
//

can do chevrons on request though.

cheers,
Pete.

Pete C wrote:
On Jun 22, 5:04 pm, Owain wrote:
They're not supposed to "line up" are they?

I thought they were supposed to be in a perfect 45deg chevron

/\
/\
/\
/\

4 hole hinges? Very posh!

I tend to do mine sloping the same way:

//
//
//

can do chevrons on request though.

I use posi screws. Much easier to whack in with the drill. ;-)


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
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\================================================= ================/

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-06-22 14:24:49 +0100, "George" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap material.





Hmm! how does one clamp that jig to the door side on?

Normally some kind of simple L shaped jig.



Jig a jig

Pete C wrote:
On Jun 22, 7:09 am, normanwisdom wrote:
On 21 Jun, 21:07, "Brian G" wrote:
I personally wouldn't even consider using a router for hinges
unless it was in the workshop and then only on a fairly long
production run of door and frame sets.

Absolutely agree with that. Taken the words out of my mouth!

Whoa! What did the OP ask again?

I just said for a couple of hinges it's do-able without a jig *if* a
bit of care is taken.

I've seen a few dodgy chiselled hinge rebates done by tradesmen.

And I haven't seen many where the hinge screw slots line up perfectly,
LOL

cheers,
Pete.

Pete,

There are tradesmen and *TRADESMEN* - a 'dodgy hinge rebate may well be a
'trick of the trade' to get over hingebound doors with fixed rebates - along
with the odd piece of 'fag-paper' packing to get the damn door off the
frame/rebate because the frame is 'bent' along its length and you don't have
enough cover strip left on a flush door to plane the damn thing to fit - oh,
not to mention the fact that a fumbling diyer has cut too much off the top
of the door and the only way to get it to fit half-way decent is to cut the
hinge housings longer to pick the entire door up - ah, the memories. :-)

BTW, with the hinge screw slots, you normally only 'line' these up on
hardwood doors and frames or those that are stained/polished - what the
point when they are going to be covered with enough paint to fill the screw
slots anyway? As a matter of interest, have you tried removing a screw with
its slots completely filled with paint that years old?

Brian G

John Rumm wrote:
Brian G wrote:

Far easier and cheaper just to use a marking gauge, a very sharp
chisel and a hammer (mallet if using wooden handled chisels) to cut
the hinge housings - you have to use 'em on the frame anyway (unless
you are prefabricating door and frame sets on the bench) - BTW all
the listed tools are of a very good quality.

Most of the hinge jigs I have seen let you use them in situ on the
frame as well as the door.

The same for the lock and latch housings, with the addition of the
good old fashioned 'brace and bit' to drill the necessary holes -
youngsters of today would be lost without 'lectric to drive their
new fangled and sometimes very expensive 'use once and throw in the
cupboard' power tools! LMAO

Most of the old school I have seen in action use the new fangled
cordless drill in place of the brace and bit" ;-)

John,

By time you have set up the jig to play with the router, I would probably
have the door planed to size and hung on a pair of hinges. With regards to
the "cordless drill", I must admit it makes things easier to get the bit to
show through the face of the door a couple of inches in from the edge - and
then spend the next half and hour wondering how the hell you are going to
cover the hole with the door handles - especially on a 'polished' door.

Us real old timers seldom agree with the new fangled methods eh?

Seriously though, I am not a complete technophobe, but I do get a little
concerned when people have to ask how to use some of today's power tools and
wonder if they'll have a full set of fingers at the finish - and repairing
some of their work, along with cleaning the blood off it, kept me busy for
long periods of time.

Brian G

Brian G wrote:

The same for the lock and latch housings, with the addition of the
good old fashioned 'brace and bit' to drill the necessary holes -
youngsters of today would be lost without 'lectric to drive their
new fangled and sometimes very expensive 'use once and throw in the
cupboard' power tools! LMAO
Most of the old school I have seen in action use the new fangled
cordless drill in place of the brace and bit" ;-)

John,

By time you have set up the jig to play with the router, I would probably
have the door planed to size and hung on a pair of hinges. With regards to

pair? Thought you would want to do it properly on three! ;-)

the "cordless drill", I must admit it makes things easier to get the bit to
show through the face of the door a couple of inches in from the edge - and
then spend the next half and hour wondering how the hell you are going to
cover the hole with the door handles - especially on a 'polished' door.

I am sure is it equally possible to cause just as much problem with a
brace and bit though?

(must admit I did not usually think about that possibility of wreaking
the face of the door that much, apart from once case a few weeks back
where I was fitting the latch to a new solid engineered oak door for a
mate (who *is* and old school chippy). It occurred to me then that
making sure the hole was damn straight could save some serious
embarrassment later!)

Us real old timers seldom agree with the new fangled methods eh?

I don't know... seeing a way of getting the same money in less time is a
powerful modernising influence I have noted! ;-)

Seriously though, I am not a complete technophobe, but I do get a little
concerned when people have to ask how to use some of today's power tools and
wonder if they'll have a full set of fingers at the finish - and repairing
some of their work, along with cleaning the blood off it, kept me busy for
long periods of time.

;-)

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-06-22 14:24:49 +0100, "George" said:


"Andy Hall" wrote in message

You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap
material.





Hmm! how does one clamp that jig to the door side on?

Normally some kind of simple L shaped jig.



Jig a jig

Yep,you have to buy a jig to secure a jig. Duh!

George wrote:
"Stuart Noble" wrote in message
...
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2007-06-22 14:24:49 +0100, "George" said:

"Andy Hall" wrote in message
You can also get commercial jigs with inserts for different standard
hinge sizes.

I had a go with one of these once

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...er=hinge%20jig

although didn't buy it . It did work quite well though and was quick
to set up. especially if one wanted to repeat on several doors.

I think that there is some value in these jigs for people who have
difficulty using a chisel, although I think that the set up time might
be better invested practicing cutting hinge recesses in scrap
material.



Hmm! how does one clamp that jig to the door side on?
Normally some kind of simple L shaped jig.


Jig a jig

Yep,you have to buy a jig to secure a jig. Duh!


I remember it as a commodity on offer in Arab countries. Now I know what
they were referring to.