Is there a FAQ?

If not, the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
conduit with usual inspection joints along it. Fused at 16 amp for a
minor supply.

At the garage a CU will distribute to one socket and lighting.

Any pointers please?

In article ,
EricP wrote:
Is there a FAQ?

If not, the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
conduit with usual inspection joints along it. Fused at 16 amp for a
minor supply.

At the garage a CU will distribute to one socket and lighting.

Any pointers please?

SWA cable would be cheaper, easier to install, and better.

--
*Taxation WITH representation ain't much fun, either.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 18 May 2007 00:47:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
EricP wrote:
Is there a FAQ?

If not, the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
conduit with usual inspection joints along it. Fused at 16 amp for a
minor supply.

At the garage a CU will distribute to one socket and lighting.

Any pointers please?

SWA cable would be cheaper, easier to install, and better.

I do have it, but there is a sharp 90 degree bend where it leaves the
house wall. That was bothering me mainly for visual reasons. It looks
tatty.

Cheers for the reply

On Fri, 18 May 2007 00:55:34 GMT, EricP
mused:

On Fri, 18 May 2007 00:47:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

In article ,
EricP wrote:
Is there a FAQ?

If not, the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
conduit with usual inspection joints along it. Fused at 16 amp for a
minor supply.

At the garage a CU will distribute to one socket and lighting.

Any pointers please?

SWA cable would be cheaper, easier to install, and better.

I do have it, but there is a sharp 90 degree bend where it leaves the
house wall. That was bothering me mainly for visual reasons. It looks
tatty.

Cheers for the reply

Have you already drilled this hole? If not, drill it at an an angle,
or re-drill it to suit. Other option is terminate the SWA into a box
over the hole.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On Fri, 18 May 2007 02:36:00 +0100, Lurch
wrote:

Have you already drilled this hole? If not, drill it at an an angle,
or re-drill it to suit. Other option is terminate the SWA into a box
over the hole.

A box! Very simple and obvious.

I will buy a brain tomorrow.

Cheers, )

On Fri, 18 May 2007 00:47:58 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
wrote:

|!In article ,
|! EricP wrote:
|! Is there a FAQ?
|!
|! If not, the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
|! conduit with usual inspection joints along it. Fused at 16 amp for a
|! minor supply.
|!
|! At the garage a CU will distribute to one socket and lighting.
|!
|! Any pointers please?
|!
|!SWA cable would be cheaper, easier to install, and better.

Thanks for that, never heard of it till now! I am also about to move my
garage, and move the electrics at the same time. The choice would appear
to be hang SWA from a wire, or bury it, (under the concrete base?). What
are the present rules for installing SWA cable. both above and below
ground? I have several spare 15 amp fuses on my Consumer Unit and at
present have a RCD/distributor unit
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SUNNCAMP-MOBIL...QQcmdZViewItem
(left over from camping) in the garage, which I would move.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

On Thu, 17 May 2007 19:39:10 GMT someone who may be EricP
wrote this:-

the proposed 5m run along a fence is 2.5 T&E in black 20mm
conduit

Fences are liable to being blown over. As a result electrical
systems should not be attached to them.

Walls are a different matter.


--
David Hansen, Edinburgh
I will *always* explain revoked encryption keys, unless RIP prevents me
http://www.opsi.gov.uk/acts/acts2000/00023--e.htm#54

I've got the same job running an electrical supply to my garage i was
thinking it would be best underground - more permanent but would need
to be protected from above by little concrete blocks I think you can
buy for the purpose. What is SWA ? Also is a consumer box needed in
the garage if the supply comes from your house consumer box.

What is the max continuous current rating of 2.5mm dia cables (in
excess of 30A I guess?)

On Fri, 18 May 2007 08:25:43 UTC, 405 TD Estate
wrote:

What is the max continuous current rating of 2.5mm dia cables (in
excess of 30A I guess?)

More like 20A. But that depends on how it is run, grouping, etc.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
http://www.diybanter.com

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
405 TD Estate wrote:

I've got the same job running an electrical supply to my garage i was
thinking it would be best underground - more permanent but would need
to be protected from above by little concrete blocks I think you can
buy for the purpose. What is SWA ? Also is a consumer box needed in
the garage if the supply comes from your house consumer box.

What is the max continuous current rating of 2.5mm dia cables (in
excess of 30A I guess?)

SWA = Steel Wired Armoured. For a picture, see
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Ind...SWA/index.html

Do you mean 2.5mm dia or 2.5mm^2 - 'cos they ain't the same thing?! [I
imagine you mean 2.5mm^2 since 2.5mm dia would have a cross-sectional area
of 4.9mm^2 which doesn't sound like a standard size!]

I'm sure that somewhere on the TLC site there's some information about
current ratings for different cable types and sizes - which depend on where
the cables are located - but I can't find it. Maybe someone can provide a
reference?
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In article ,
Roger Mills wrote:
I'm sure that somewhere on the TLC site there's some information about
current ratings for different cable types and sizes - which depend on
where the cables are located - but I can't find it. Maybe someone can
provide a reference?

This should provide the information needed.

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...ltageDrop.html

--
*A nest isn't empty until all their stuff is out of the attic

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 18 May 2007 10:08:20 +0100, Owain
mused:

Dave Fawthrop wrote:
|!SWA cable would be cheaper, easier to install, and better.
Thanks for that, never heard of it till now! I am also about to move my
garage, and move the electrics at the same time. The choice would appear
to be hang SWA from a wire, or bury it, (under the concrete base?). What
are the present rules for installing SWA cable. both above and below
ground?

Going through/under concrete, I would duct it, so that it can be pulled
out and replaced if necessary. Probably okay to use some plastic
drainpipe for the duct, although it's probably the wrong colour (every
underground service has a designated colour for ease of recognition).

Black for mains, so use black waste pipe.

There is no minimum depth but it has to be suitable for the location -
greater than two spits deep under the veggie plot where double-digging
may take place, to quite shallow under paths.

Always a very good plan to put some "buried cable below" tape between
the cable and the surface.

Owain
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 18 May 2007 01:25:43 -0700, 405 TD Estate
mused:

I've got the same job running an electrical supply to my garage i was
thinking it would be best underground - more permanent but would need
to be protected from above by little concrete blocks I think you can
buy for the purpose.

I think you're thinking of the concrete ducts used on railways etc...
A tad excessive I believe.

What is SWA ? Also is a consumer box needed in
the garage if the supply comes from your house consumer box.

Not neccesarily, usually one is fitted but if you have a 16A supply
running from the house we have run this through an isolator and then
used a fused spur for the lighting.

What is the max continuous current rating of 2.5mm dia cables (in
excess of 30A I guess?)

Nope.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

On 18 May, 12:20, Lurch wrote:
On 18 May 2007 01:25:43 -0700, 405 TD Estate
mused:

I've got the same job running an electrical supply to my garage i was
thinking it would be best underground - more permanent but would need
to be protected from above by little concrete blocks I think you can
buy for the purpose.

I think you're thinking of the concrete ducts used on railways etc...
A tad excessive I believe.

What is SWA ? Also is a consumer box needed in
the garage if the supply comes from your house consumer box.

Not neccesarily, usually one is fitted but if you have a 16A supply
running from the house we have run this through an isolator and then
used a fused spur for the lighting.

What is the max continuous current rating of 2.5mm dia cables (in
excess of 30A I guess?)

Nope.
--
Regards,
Stuart.

I think I would need at least 30A to run my plug in welder, 3kw
electric heater and a couple of floodlights and 3 flourescent lights.
So this looks like 6mm^2 cable required - which would give 30A
(just).

So a consumer unit would be needed?

Additionally if for example I want to run my sockets from one outlet
of the consumer unit but it is more convenient to run them all from
one single point (instead of a ring main) what type of box can you get
with rails for +ve -ve and earth to easily connect them up.

405 TD Estate wrote:

I think I would need at least 30A to run my plug in welder, 3kw
electric heater and a couple of floodlights and 3 flourescent lights.
So this looks like 6mm^2 cable required - which would give 30A
(just).

The current carrying capacity of SWA is also influenced by what it is
sheathed in. The PVC type can run upto 70 degrees like most house cable,
but XLPE thermosetting insulation will go to 90 and hence carry higher
currents.

So a consumer unit would be needed?

If you are looking at a number of circuits then that is the simple way.

A simple shed supply with a couple of sockets and a light could get away
with a switch and a direct connection the the sockets with the lights of
a FCU.

It also depends on what you are doing in there. Using a space as a
workshop for example will mean you need to pay for more attention to
issues like discrimination - i.e. keeping the lights on when you trip a
power circuit.

Additionally if for example I want to run my sockets from one outlet
of the consumer unit but it is more convenient to run them all from
one single point (instead of a ring main) what type of box can you get
with rails for +ve -ve and earth to easily connect them up.

Not sure I quite follow that description... but it sounds like you are
describing a CU.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

Having put in your new consumer unit in the garage - one final tip:

Next time the electricity supplier sends a kid round to change the meter,
make sure you point out the garage feed to him. I went to add a new switch
in the garage recently and found the whole thing live: the meter had been
changed and the connector block that had been live before was now the
neutral, and vice versa. The board's electrician, swapped over the
connector polarity even though the garage feed wires were right in front of
his eyes and clearly not the right colour.

Had to break the seal on the main fuse to swap it over safely...

S


"John Rumm" wrote in message
...
405 TD Estate wrote:

I think I would need at least 30A to run my plug in welder, 3kw
electric heater and a couple of floodlights and 3 flourescent lights.
So this looks like 6mm^2 cable required - which would give 30A
(just).

The current carrying capacity of SWA is also influenced by what it is
sheathed in. The PVC type can run upto 70 degrees like most house cable,
but XLPE thermosetting insulation will go to 90 and hence carry higher
currents.

So a consumer unit would be needed?

If you are looking at a number of circuits then that is the simple way.

A simple shed supply with a couple of sockets and a light could get away
with a switch and a direct connection the the sockets with the lights of a
FCU.

It also depends on what you are doing in there. Using a space as a
workshop for example will mean you need to pay for more attention to
issues like discrimination - i.e. keeping the lights on when you trip a
power circuit.

Additionally if for example I want to run my sockets from one outlet
of the consumer unit but it is more convenient to run them all from
one single point (instead of a ring main) what type of box can you get
with rails for +ve -ve and earth to easily connect them up.

Not sure I quite follow that description... but it sounds like you are
describing a CU.


--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/