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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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Mortar Mix
"John" wrote in message ... I have some coping stones to rebed on a low wall (18" high) in our back garden. The wall was already there when we moved in, so I know nothing of it's history. The copings are approx 3 ft by 1 ft and just look like the concrete paving slabs around my garden. As these stones are all loose and have come unstuck from the original bed of mortar, which is still on the bricks below, but I will chip it off with a 4" bolster. What do I do with the mortar mix to make sure they stick! Thanks John Hi John, Have a look through the brickwork section on this site: http://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex.htm It should talk you through what you need. --- BigWallop http://basecuritysystems.no-ip.com Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.493 / Virus Database: 292 - Release Date: 25/06/03 |
#2
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Mortar Mix
"John" wrote in message
... I have some coping stones to rebed on a low wall (18" high) in our back garden. The wall was already there when we moved in, so I know nothing of it's history. The copings are approx 3 ft by 1 ft and just look like the concrete paving slabs around my garden. As these stones are all loose and have come unstuck from the original bed of mortar, which is still on the bricks below, but I will chip it off with a 4" bolster. What do I do with the mortar mix to make sure they stick! A simple 4;1 mix with some plasticiser will do the job ... you can add lime if you have it, but for a small job 4:1 will be good enough. Apply a coat of diluted PVA first (3 parts PVA to 1 part water) and allow to become tacky before putting down the mortar. Rick |
#3
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"BigWallop" wrote
"John" wrote ... I have some coping stones to rebed on a low wall (18" high) in our back garden. Hi John, Have a look through the brickwork section on this site: http://www.pavingexpert.com/pavindex.htm It should talk you through what you need. Nice link, thanks. Fletton, frogged on my house. Who'd have thought it ! Cheers, Paul |
#4
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Mortar Mix
"Rick Hughes" wrote in message ...
"John" wrote in message ... I have some coping stones to rebed on a low wall (18" high) in our back garden. The wall was already there when we moved in, so I know nothing of it's history. The copings are approx 3 ft by 1 ft and just look like the concrete paving slabs around my garden. As these stones are all loose and have come unstuck from the original bed of mortar, which is still on the bricks below, but I will chip it off with a 4" bolster. What do I do with the mortar mix to make sure they stick! A simple 4;1 mix with some plasticiser will do the job ... you can add lime if you have it, but for a small job 4:1 will be good enough. Apply a coat of diluted PVA first (3 parts PVA to 1 part water) and allow to become tacky before putting down the mortar. Rick You don't need plasticiser with lime. I'm not sure if using both together is counter-productive. |
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Mortar Mix
"Rick Hughes" wrote in message ...
You don't need plasticiser with lime. I'm not sure if using both together is counter-productive. What I said was lime if you had it - plasticiser will still make it more workable, as it acts as an air entrainer. But not so important with Lime. Although I worked as a labourer on sites while through college and Lime was only ever used when finnings or dashing were going on - never used on bricking. Rick I wasn't contradicting you. I seem to remember rendering with both and it all went like soap suds until I stopped using the Feb. "If it goes pear shaped read the instructions." I just don't remember what it said on the side of the tin. It was like working with blancmange and we cobbed two mixes and had problems with the wall we'd already coated. The penny pinching # we did it for made us use the stuff up with the rest of the job. All his walls had tiny cracks in all over. It looked like those tiny mosaic sheets of tiles. (Ha! Ha!) |
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Don't use plasterziser, its crap. Use 4 to 1 sand/cement with Unibond in
the water, use the same water and paint both coping and receiving bed of brickwork prior to spreading mortar. Sand and Lime were use for century in the building trade. When cement mortars came used, it was found that this type of mortar was heavy and didn't spread very well. So they introduced plasterzier in to the water. This plasterziser put bubbles in the mortar when mixed. When the bricks are pressed down the bubbles collapse making it easier to level the material being laid. The problem arises when the weather starts to ware away the mortar, its full of dried empty bubbles. In a recent article in one of the construction mags, There are proposals of going back to Lime mortar for brickwork. One of the theories behind the use of Lime mortar is that in the case of any movement in brickwork the joint gives, in cement mortar the bricks give and snap. John wrote in message ... I have some coping stones to rebed on a low wall (18" high) in our back garden. The wall was already there when we moved in, so I know nothing of it's history. The copings are approx 3 ft by 1 ft and just look like the concrete paving slabs around my garden. As these stones are all loose and have come unstuck from the original bed of mortar, which is still on the bricks below, but I will chip it off with a 4" bolster. What do I do with the mortar mix to make sure they stick! Thanks John |
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Mortar Mix
Is the fire in a basket or do the flames actually come in direct contact
with the brick work . sw wrote in message ... Do you reckon 4:1 sand:cement mix is ok for the brickwork at the back of a wood-burning fireplace? |
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"Keith" wrote in message ...
Don't use plasterziser, its crap. Use 4 to 1 sand/cement with Unibond in the water, use the same water and paint both coping and receiving bed of brickwork prior to spreading mortar. Sand and Lime were use for century in the building trade. When cement mortars came used, it was found that this type of mortar was heavy and didn't spread very well. So they introduced plasterzier in to the water. This plasterziser put bubbles in the mortar when mixed. When the bricks are pressed down the bubbles collapse making it easier to level the material being laid. The problem arises when the weather starts to ware away the mortar, its full of dried empty bubbles. In a recent article in one of the construction mags, There are proposals of going back to Lime mortar for brickwork. One of the theories behind the use of Lime mortar is that in the case of any movement in brickwork the joint gives, in cement mortar the bricks give and snap. He's just messing with a patch of garden wall. The problem you highlighted is due to the use of washing up liquid which won't tamp down. You only use a few ccs -about a large spoonfull of Feb per bucket of water. Bricklaying mix should be strong enough to suit the brick and a little softer than the brick -which is controlled by the ratio of cement to sand. If you look at the mortar used in old buildings you will see that face work is very close together. It meant that each brick needed to be measured for the bonds to work. Modern courses are 1/2" apart allowing plenty of scope to pull the joints together. Horses for courses. You couldn't use lime mortar on 1/2" beds could you? Not the same problems as stone though. |
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The Natural Philosopher wrote in message ...
sw wrote: Do you reckon 4:1 sand:cement mix is ok for the brickwork at the back of a wood-burning fireplace? Nothing works here execpt an iron fireback. Even bricks erode quite fast. Wood doesn't burn very hot. You have to wait for the cement to cure over a few day and I believe you start with a very small fire at first to temper it. Not sure though. |
#10
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Michael McNeil wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote in message ... sw wrote: Do you reckon 4:1 sand:cement mix is ok for the brickwork at the back of a wood-burning fireplace? Nothing works here execpt an iron fireback. Even bricks erode quite fast. Wood doesn't burn very hot. ********. Come and see what it has done to my fireplace. The grates are distortedt (cast irion) and the brickes behind have lost most of the surface tio a depth of about 1/4" frim the massive heat input. Its not wuite white hot, but I have had the fire heart well up to yellow hot. Possibly you meant that teh flue gases aren't quite as hot as coal, which is true. Coal can easily get hot enough to melt steel, but with wood its takes a fair draught and a bit of doing. In the end, tho, you are burnimg carbon. You have to wait for the cement to cure over a few day and I believe you start with a very small fire at first to temper it. Not sure though. The cement actually seems to be standing up better than the bricks... |
#11
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He's not laying bricks. Concrete copings and concrete do not absorb water.
Therefore Feb crap want do any good what so ever. On the other hand Unibond will give a better adhesive. Michael McNeil wrote in message om... "Keith" wrote in message ... Don't use plasterziser, its crap. Use 4 to 1 sand/cement with Unibond in the water, use the same water and paint both coping and receiving bed of brickwork prior to spreading mortar. Sand and Lime were use for century in the building trade. When cement mortars came used, it was found that this type of mortar was heavy and didn't spread very well. So they introduced plasterzier in to the water. This plasterziser put bubbles in the mortar when mixed. When the bricks are pressed down the bubbles collapse making it easier to level the material being laid. The problem arises when the weather starts to ware away the mortar, its full of dried empty bubbles. In a recent article in one of the construction mags, There are proposals of going back to Lime mortar for brickwork. One of the theories behind the use of Lime mortar is that in the case of any movement in brickwork the joint gives, in cement mortar the bricks give and snap. He's just messing with a patch of garden wall. The problem you highlighted is due to the use of washing up liquid which won't tamp down. You only use a few ccs -about a large spoonfull of Feb per bucket of water. Bricklaying mix should be strong enough to suit the brick and a little softer than the brick -which is controlled by the ratio of cement to sand. If you look at the mortar used in old buildings you will see that face work is very close together. It meant that each brick needed to be measured for the bonds to work. Modern courses are 1/2" apart allowing plenty of scope to pull the joints together. Horses for courses. You couldn't use lime mortar on 1/2" beds could you? Not the same problems as stone though. |
#12
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Mortar Mix
"Keith" wrote in message ... He's not laying bricks. Concrete copings and concrete do not absorb water. Therefore Feb crap want do any good what so ever. On the other hand Unibond will give a better adhesive. Forget all that Feb Bond and Uni-Bond stuff and use plain and simple thick paste, fine sand, lots of cement and stick the bugger in place. They didn't use all that fancy crap a hundred years ago and the buildings are still up solid today. By Christ, if a house today gets long enough for a mortgage then it's classed as luxury apartments. |
#13
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Mortar Mix
Well said and I fully agree
BigWallop wrote in message ... "Keith" wrote in message ... He's not laying bricks. Concrete copings and concrete do not absorb water. Therefore Feb crap want do any good what so ever. On the other hand Unibond will give a better adhesive. Forget all that Feb Bond and Uni-Bond stuff and use plain and simple thick paste, fine sand, lots of cement and stick the bugger in place. They didn't use all that fancy crap a hundred years ago and the buildings are still up solid today. By Christ, if a house today gets long enough for a mortgage then it's classed as luxury apartments. |
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