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Default Gas cooker connection

Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.

If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day (while
I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?

Is this safe or not?

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Default Gas cooker connection


"Mo" wrote in message
...
Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.

If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day
(while
I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?

Is this safe or not?


Well I ahve found na odl thread that suggests its ok, so ill risk it!

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Default Gas cooker connection


"Mo" wrote in message
...
Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.

If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day
(while
I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?

Is this safe or not?


Well I ahve found na odl thread that suggests its ok, so ill risk it!

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In message , Mo
writes

"Mo" wrote in message
...
Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.

If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day
(while
I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?

Is this safe or not?


Well I ahve found na odl thread that suggests its ok, so ill risk it!


Have you gassed yourself ? ... it looks like it


A bayonet connection should be self sealing

--
geoff
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On Fri, 04 May 2007 22:50:06 +0100, Mo wrote:

Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.

If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day (while
I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?

Is this safe or not?


Yes: that's (sort of) what they're intended for. (Actually I suppose
it's more for cleaning behind the cooker.) When you put the cooker back
make sure the stability device still works. This may be a sort of L-shaped
metal bracket fixed to the wall or floor that loosely engages in the back
of the cooker so that when the cooker is pushed back into its working
position it prevents it being tipped forward. Alternativey it may be a
chain fixed to the cooker and the wall. If neither is present there should
be one, and it must of course be fitted by a 'competent person'

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?...Regs#Statutory Instruments

--
John Stumbles


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Default Gas cooker connection

ARGH!

OK, I had a look - the one we have is pretty old and gettign green mould on
it - after putting soem effort in I got it out - I put it back in. Spark up
the cooker and it all seemed fine.

Its back on now - however there is nothing holding it to the wall - there IS
achain on there tho but not connected to anything - tho I don't see how
anyone could install it given the chain is so short.

I might try and get someone in tomorrow after I get my floor done to check
it.

Can I do a test for gas leaks? I heard somethign about some yellow tape...?
What could happen if the cooker leans forward?

There is a hole of sorts on the floor - it sticks out (I'll have a closer
look in a min) - maybe that is the device to stop the lean?

Cheers

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"Mo" wrote in message
...
ARGH!


The hole in the ground seems to be an old pipe or something...?

The cooker itself is massive and there is no chance of it leaning forward
unless something put massive force on it.

While I am here.. - Could I do any damage whilst moving the cooker
tomorrow to take it out of the kitchen - may have to lift it as it will not
drag well - is it best not to tilt it too much etc?

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Default Gas cooker connection


"Mo" wrote in message
...
ARGH!


The hole in the ground seems to be an old pipe or something...?

The cooker itself is massive and there is no chance of it leaning forward
unless something put massive force on it.

While I am here.. - Could I do any damage whilst moving the cooker
tomorrow to take it out of the kitchen - may have to lift it as it will not
drag well - is it best not to tilt it too much etc?

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Default Gas cooker connection


"raden" wrote in message
...


Have you gassed yourself ? ... it looks like it


A bayonet connection should be self sealing

--
geoff


this looks interesting

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/

reliable? worth doing i guess just to be safe..

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Default Gas cooker connection

Mo wrote:

OK, I had a look - the one we have is pretty old and gettign green mould
on it - after putting soem effort in I got it out - I put it back in.
Spark up the cooker and it all seemed fine.


If you want a confidence check that the thing resealed correctly, you
could spray some soapy water over it (bit of washing up liquid and
water). You would see bubbles if there is any leak. Wash with plain
water after however as the washing up liquid will be slightly corrosive.

Its back on now - however there is nothing holding it to the wall -
there IS achain on there tho but not connected to anything - tho I don't
see how anyone could install it given the chain is so short.


The chain should either hook onto a hook screwed into the wall, or
alternatively some cookers accept an L bracket fixed to the back wall at
the base of the cooker. This stops it tilting when slid back into place.

Can I do a test for gas leaks?


See above... (the better way is with a can of leak detector spray -
available at a plumbers merchant, the best way is with a manometer
connected to the test point on the gas meter). See the gas fitting FAQ
for more info on that.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html

I heard somethign about some yellow tape...?


This is referring to a (typically white) PTFE tape usually supplied on
(typically) yellow reels. It is a little thicker than the stuff used on
screwed connections with water pipes. It is only used on gas where you
have a screwed connection that has to seal on the threads (so not
compression fittings which use an olive). You don't need it to connect
or disconnect a cooker hose.

What could happen if the cooker leans forward?


The biggest risk from tilting is when someone falls onto an open oven
door and promptly tips the content of the hob on top of them as well.

There is a hole of sorts on the floor - it sticks out (I'll have a
closer look in a min) - maybe that is the device to stop the lean?


Doubt it.



--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/


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Default Gas cooker connection

On Fri, 4 May 2007 22:50:06 +0100, "Mo" wrote:

|!Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.
|!
|!If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day (while
|!I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?
|!
|!Is this safe or not?

Yes! that is why they produced the bayonet connection, it is foolproof.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

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Default Gas cooker connection

In article ,
"Mo" writes:
this looks interesting


Just look at the size of that bbq in the top left picture!

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/

reliable? worth doing i guess just to be safe..


Yes, but I suggest going along to your local plumbers merchant
and buying a can of gas leak detector spray. It works so much
better than washing up liquid and it doesn't leave any nasty
corrosive residue behind afterwards.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
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Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Mo" writes:
this looks interesting


Just look at the size of that bbq in the top left picture!

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/


Yeah and doesn't he know that in several US states it's illegal to cook
children?

David
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Default Gas cooker connection

Mo wrote:

"Mo" wrote in message
...
ARGH!


The hole in the ground seems to be an old pipe or something...?

The cooker itself is massive and there is no chance of it leaning forward
unless something put massive force on it.

While I am here.. - Could I do any damage whilst moving the cooker
tomorrow to take it out of the kitchen - may have to lift it as it will not
drag well - is it best not to tilt it too much etc?


I should worry more about replacing it afterwards - it's incredibly easy
to snag a new vinyl floor with a heavy kitchen appliance and rip it,
especially the thin stuff which it sounds like you're laying. Lots of
heavy duty cardboard needed!

David

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In article ,
Lobster writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Mo" writes:
this looks interesting


Just look at the size of that bbq in the top left picture!

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/


Yeah and doesn't he know that in several US states it's illegal to cook
children?


But you could easily get 8 children on that bbq -- he's only got 2
on it.

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]


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Default Gas cooker connection

On 2007-05-05 12:45:42 +0100, (Andrew
Gabriel) said:

In article ,
Lobster writes:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Mo" writes:
this looks interesting

Just look at the size of that bbq in the top left picture!

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/

Yeah and doesn't he know that in several US states it's illegal to cook
children?


But you could easily get 8 children on that bbq -- he's only got 2
on it.


Then he might need one of those doo-hickies which detect ODOR.

Americans seem to have an obsession with ODOR.


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In message , Mo
writes

"raden" wrote in message
...


Have you gassed yourself ? ... it looks like it


A bayonet connection should be self sealing

-- geoff


this looks interesting

http://www.komar.org/bbq/mm/convert/leak-test/

reliable? worth doing i guess just to be safe..


You should be able to smell it, that's what Allah gave you a nose for

While you should respect it, remember that gas is only explosive in the
narrow range of 5 - 15%

Having said that, apparently, my school got a new science block from the
insurance after someone went looking for a gas leak with a match



--
geoff
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Default Gas cooker connection

John Rumm wrote:

Mo wrote:

OK, I had a look - the one we have is pretty old and gettign green
mould on it - after putting soem effort in I got it out - I put it
back in. Spark up the cooker and it all seemed fine.



If you want a confidence check that the thing resealed correctly, you
could spray some soapy water over it (bit of washing up liquid and
water). You would see bubbles if there is any leak.


The problem with doing it this way is that if the leak is big enough, it
will not blow a bubble that you can see. It will have blown the soapy
water away quicker than it can make a bubble.

The solution is to make a collar of bubbles around the joint by using a
small brush. If you can make a complete collar, then you might not have
a leak, but watch it carefully to see if there are any tiny bubbles
adding themselves to the original collar of bubbles.

I used this way of leak detection on oxygen lines and that gas is far
more dangerous than North Sea gas.

After doing as I have described, follow the instructions below.


Wash with plain
water after however as the washing up liquid will be slightly corrosive.

Its back on now - however there is nothing holding it to the wall -
there IS achain on there tho but not connected to anything - tho I
don't see how anyone could install it given the chain is so short.



The chain should either hook onto a hook screwed into the wall, or
alternatively some cookers accept an L bracket fixed to the back wall at
the base of the cooker. This stops it tilting when slid back into place.

Can I do a test for gas leaks?



See above... (the better way is with a can of leak detector spray -
available at a plumbers merchant, the best way is with a manometer
connected to the test point on the gas meter). See the gas fitting FAQ
for more info on that.

http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html

I heard somethign about some yellow tape...?



This is referring to a (typically white) PTFE tape usually supplied on
(typically) yellow reels. It is a little thicker than the stuff used on
screwed connections with water pipes. It is only used on gas where you
have a screwed connection that has to seal on the threads (so not
compression fittings which use an olive). You don't need it to connect
or disconnect a cooker hose.

What could happen if the cooker leans forward?



The biggest risk from tilting is when someone falls onto an open oven
door and promptly tips the content of the hob on top of them as well.

There is a hole of sorts on the floor - it sticks out (I'll have a
closer look in a min) - maybe that is the device to stop the lean?



Doubt it.



Dave
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Dave Fawthrop wrote:

On Fri, 4 May 2007 22:50:06 +0100, "Mo" wrote:

|!Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.
|!
|!If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day (while
|!I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?
|!
|!Is this safe or not?

Yes! that is why they produced the bayonet connection, it is foolproof.


Is it? This fool did not find it so. I had leaks many times from them in
the past.

Dave
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Dave wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

If you want a confidence check that the thing resealed correctly, you
could spray some soapy water over it (bit of washing up liquid and
water). You would see bubbles if there is any leak.


The problem with doing it this way is that if the leak is big enough, it
will not blow a bubble that you can see. It will have blown the soapy
water away quicker than it can make a bubble.

The solution is to make a collar of bubbles around the joint by using a
small brush. If you can make a complete collar, then you might not have
a leak, but watch it carefully to see if there are any tiny bubbles
adding themselves to the original collar of bubbles.

I used this way of leak detection on oxygen lines and that gas is far
more dangerous than North Sea gas.


But you can smell North Sea gas, unlike oxygen: so if the leak is big to
blow away the bubble solution wouldn't it be pretty obvious?

David


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Lobster wrote:

But you can smell North Sea gas, unlike oxygen: so if the leak is big to
blow away the bubble solution wouldn't it be pretty obvious?


You would have thought so. As I said though, the best test is to do a
pressure drop test. However unless you have done one before to prove the
existing pipework in the house is sound you can end up chasing a problem
at your cooker fittings that in reality is elsewhere!

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/
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I bought some spray from B & Q which detects gas.

It says it will create foam if there is a leak.

Odd thing is it comes out foamy anyway (but disappears after a while) - but
this coudl confuse the avg person.

I had a refillable cigarette gas tube which I used to spray some gas out and
I found the detecor actually produces a different kind of foam that stays
there for a little longer.

Sprayed my connection a few times and no foam showed up so I guess it is all
OK.

Only thing is now the boiler isn;t producing hot water or heating up the
radiators. I assume this is because the boiler was on when I switch off gas
at the mains and I spose it has drained it all out - should it be good to go
if I leave it overnight..?

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On Sat, 05 May 2007 20:21:15 +0100, Dave wrote:

|!Dave Fawthrop wrote:
|!
|! On Fri, 4 May 2007 22:50:06 +0100, "Mo" wrote:
|!
|! |!Been looking online for an answer to this - found conflicting information.
|! |!
|! |!If my cooker has a bayonet connection, can I disconnect it for a day (while
|! |!I do my new floor) and put it back on myself?
|! |!
|! |!Is this safe or not?
|!
|! Yes! that is why they produced the bayonet connection, it is foolproof.
|!
|!Is it? This fool did not find it so. I had leaks many times from them in
|!the past.

They have always worked fine for me, never the slightest smell of gas.
--
Dave Fawthrop sf hyphenologist.co.uk 165 *Free* SF ebooks.
165 Sci Fi books on CDROM, from Project Gutenberg
http://www.gutenberg.org/wiki/Main_Page Completely Free to any
address in the UK. Contact me on the *above* email address.

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On Sat, 05 May 2007 19:38:44 GMT, Lobster wrote:

Dave wrote:
John Rumm wrote:

If you want a confidence check that the thing resealed correctly, you
could spray some soapy water over it (bit of washing up liquid and
water). You would see bubbles if there is any leak.


The problem with doing it this way is that if the leak is big enough, it
will not blow a bubble that you can see. It will have blown the soapy
water away quicker than it can make a bubble.

The solution is to make a collar of bubbles around the joint by using a
small brush. If you can make a complete collar, then you might not have
a leak, but watch it carefully to see if there are any tiny bubbles
adding themselves to the original collar of bubbles.

I used this way of leak detection on oxygen lines and that gas is far
more dangerous than North Sea gas.


But you can smell North Sea gas, unlike oxygen: so if the leak is big to
blow away the bubble solution wouldn't it be pretty obvious?

David


Just to be a bit pedantic, you can't actually smell North Sea gas, as
natural gas is odourless! Practically you can smell it of course, because
they add a chemical smell specifically so that you'll notice leaks.

Steve W
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