We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building control. I dont think we carried out the fitted correctly since it turned out to be a nightmare to fit, requiring the strength of 2 men to do it properly. (we fitted one side in, but had to use a lot of force to position the other hinge into place to screw it in...). Anyway, its done now, and the door closes automatically when opened but it doesnt slam shut. Is it ok if its slightly ajar or will building control require it to slam shut?
We used this kind of closer: http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/pr...or-closer.html

Any advice on where we went wrong during the fitting would also be appreciated.

butterfly wrote:
We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building
control. I dont think we carried out the fitted correctly since it
turned out to be a nightmare to fit, requiring the strength of 2 men to
do it properly. (we fitted one side in, but had to use a lot of force to
position the other hinge into place to screw it in...). Anyway, its done
now, and the door closes automatically when opened but it doesnt slam
shut. Is it ok if its slightly ajar or will building control require it
to slam shut?

FWIW (I know nothing about fire doors) it would seem to me that a fire
door should shut properly otherwise it would seem a bit pointless having
it in the first place.

HTH Steve

"Steve" wrote in message
k...
butterfly wrote:
We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building
control. I dont think we carried out the fitted correctly since it
turned out to be a nightmare to fit, requiring the strength of 2 men to
do it properly. (we fitted one side in, but had to use a lot of force to
position the other hinge into place to screw it in...). Anyway, its done
now, and the door closes automatically when opened but it doesnt slam
shut. Is it ok if its slightly ajar or will building control require it
to slam shut?

FWIW (I know nothing about fire doors) it would seem to me that a fire
door should shut properly otherwise it would seem a bit pointless having
it in the first place.

HTH Steve


The secret is to use a steel nail or similar - push it between the links of
the chain whilst the door is open - then you can perhaps remove a link from
the slack end

On Mar 20, 5:22 pm, "John" wrote:
"Steve" wrote in message

k...

We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building
control. I don't think we carried out the fitted correctly.... it doesn't slam
shut.

...it would seem to me that a fire door should shut properly otherwise
it would seem a bit pointless having it in the first place.

The secret is to use a steel nail or similar - push it between the links of
the chain whilst the door is open - then you can perhaps remove a link from
the slack end

They should have had a pin or gadget like that to hold the chain out
while it was fitted. Why they couldn't follow the instructions is
beyond me.

They are tightened or slackened by turning the spring flange. Open the
door as wide as possible, insert the catch or clip or whatever they
supplied or buy another Perko to use that. They are only a couple of
quid.

An 1 1/2" nail might do.

Remove the flange set in the frame and turn the chain -without
straining it, to suit. Replace the flange and remove the catch. Check
the door closes and if it doesn't, try again.

That's all there is to it.

On Tue, 20 Mar 2007 14:34:48 +0000, butterfly wrote:

We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building
control. I dont think we carried out the fitted correctly since it
turned out to be a nightmare to fit, requiring the strength of 2 men to
do it properly. (we fitted one side in, but had to use a lot of force to
position the other hinge into place to screw it in...). Anyway, its done
now, and the door closes automatically when opened but it doesnt slam
shut. Is it ok if its slightly ajar or will building control require it
to slam shut?
We used this kind of closer: http://tinyurl.com/38hpa5

Any advice on where we went wrong during the fitting would also be
appreciated.


These are very tricky to fit. However you should have found inside the
packet a small steel slightly cranked rod about 2mm diam x about 50mm long.
This is used to wedge the chain. You could also improvise something.

The tension/length of the mechanism is adjustable to achieve a result, but
the door needs to be hung right of course.

If you are only trying to get a completion certificate then fit the ugly
but cheap and simple rotary type and remove later.





--
Ed Sirett - Property maintainer and registered gas fitter.
The FAQ for uk.diy is at http://www.diyfaq.org.uk
Gas fitting FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFitting.html
Sealed CH FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/SealedCH.html
Choosing a Boiler FAQ http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/BoilerChoice.html
Gas Fitting Standards Docs he http://www.makewrite.demon.co.uk/GasFittingStandards

butterfly wrote:
We have just fitted a door closer on a door as requested by building
control. I dont think we carried out the fitted correctly since it
turned out to be a nightmare to fit, requiring the strength of 2 men
to do it properly. (we fitted one side in, but had to use a lot of
force to position the other hinge into place to screw it in...).
Anyway, its done now, and the door closes automatically when opened
but it doesnt slam shut. Is it ok if its slightly ajar or will
building control require it to slam shut?
We used this kind of closer: http://tinyurl.com/38hpa5

Any advice on where we went wrong during the fitting would also be
appreciated.

Where you went wrong was paying £1.79p for a door closer - a fire door
weighs a lot more than a regular internal flush door and therefore requires
something more substantial to close it.
No the building inspector won't pass it if it doesn't completely close
(every time) and the fire officer won't be too happy neither, if he's
required to see it.
http://snipurl.com/1dj2v is what you should have used.

In article ,
"Phil L" writes:
Where you went wrong was paying £1.79p for a door closer - a fire door
weighs a lot more than a regular internal flush door and therefore requires
something more substantial to close it.
No the building inspector won't pass it if it doesn't completely close
(every time) and the fire officer won't be too happy neither, if he's
required to see it.
http://snipurl.com/1dj2v is what you should have used.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...sp?sku=SR06680
is a cheaper one, which will do for domestic fire door use.

If you've never fitted one of these before, get a tube of filler
too, to fill all the mounting holes you make for positions which
turn out not to work when you test them ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

Ed Sirett wrote:

These are very tricky to fit. However you should have found inside the
packet a small steel slightly cranked rod about 2mm diam x about 50mm
long. This is used to wedge the chain. You could also improvise
something.

Yup - use a vice & mole grips to pull out 2" of chain, and then lock it in
place with the supplied rod (sometimes a notched steel plate is provided
instead). The resulting 'slack' allows you to fix the spring barrel into
the door, and then the plate onto the frame.

Having done this, you'll probably then need to take it off again to wind the
spring in or out, adjusting the tension. Open the door wide, put your
locking pin or shim back in, unscrew the plate and then wind the chain with
pliers as you need to.

I find them perfeclty usable for domestic doors, but they don't usually give
you a full fire-door 'slam' unless you wind 'em up tight. I don't like the
noise, so ours are adjusted to pull the door 'nearly closed' without
latching.

On Mar 20, 8:42 pm, (Andrew Gabriel)
wrote:
In article ,
"Phil L" writes:

Where you went wrong was paying £1.79p for a door closer - a fire door
weighs a lot more than a regular internal flush door and therefore requires
something more substantial to close it.
No the building inspector won't pass it if it doesn't completely close
(every time) and the fire officer won't be too happy neither, if he's
required to see it.
http://snipurl.com/1dj2v is what you should have used.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...sp?sku=SR06680
is a cheaper one, which will do for domestic fire door use.

If you've never fitted one of these before, get a tube of filler
too, to fill all the mounting holes you make for positions which
turn out not to work when you test them ;-)

--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]

From April the self closer requirement has been removed from the rules
on domestic properties, so you might be able to do without if you have
a friendly BCO. A few other things have changed too though, so you
need to check that you don't get caught out by any of those.

The Perko type closers work fine when adjusted right, although the
ones I've used are a bit more expensive. If it nearly closes, try
leaving a window open when they are checked - the easier air movement
sometimes makes the difference.

Another option is spring loaded hinges - screwfix have some for £9.99
a pair in clearance which seem pretty solid (and springy).

A

Andrew Gabriel wrote:
In article ,
"Phil L" writes:
Where you went wrong was paying £1.79p for a door closer - a fire
door weighs a lot more than a regular internal flush door and
therefore requires something more substantial to close it.
No the building inspector won't pass it if it doesn't completely
close (every time) and the fire officer won't be too happy neither,
if he's required to see it.
http://snipurl.com/1dj2v is what you should have used.

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...sp?sku=SR06680
is a cheaper one, which will do for domestic fire door use.

If you've never fitted one of these before, get a tube of filler
too, to fill all the mounting holes you make for positions which
turn out not to work when you test them ;-)

With the dearer ones, you only fix it once and it is fully adjustable in
several directions / speeds / strengths /etc...and they are tested to 10,000
operations!

Andrew Gabriel wrote:


If you've never fitted one of these before, get a tube of filler
too, to fill all the mounting holes you make for positions which
turn out not to work when you test them ;-)

And a packet of plasters in case you get your fingers in the way.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Mar 20, 11:25 pm, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Andrew Gabriel wrote:

If you've never fitted one of these before, get a tube of filler
too, to fill all the mounting holes you make for positions which
turn out not to work when you test them ;-)

And a packet of plasters in case you get your fingers in the way.

--

A woman at work leaving a meeting room blindly put her hand up in
front of her while she was tlakign to somebody behind her, thinking
the door was there but she'd put her hand (well some of her fingers)
into the space between the door and the door frame (on the hinge side)
and the heavy fire door slammed shut.....
I know we used to have "how to walk up stairs" training but I don't
remember getting "how to open a door" training after that.