I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides

I am minded to lay the wooden base lats on a mortar mix - just a skim
on three sides and then half-inch on the fourth.

Any points? - use a mortar mix or some other pre-prepared mastic or
similar - or even make as level as possible with mortar - let it go
off - and then lay all timber on mastic?

I intend to buy the tanilized timber lats - would you treat them any
more before use?

"Mr Green" wrote in message
...
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides


I would organise it so that the point you want the rain to run off into your
water butt(s) is the lowest. Most people sit the greenhouse on its base then
see where the water comes off and put the butts that end, which is a bit of
a bugger if it's the inconvenient end.

Steve

Mr Green wrote:
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

Why?

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides

I am minded to lay the wooden base lats on a mortar mix - just a skim
on three sides and then half-inch on the fourth.

Any points? - use a mortar mix or some other pre-prepared mastic or
similar - or even make as level as possible with mortar - let it go
off - and then lay all timber on mastic?

Why not let it go off, and then fix the greenhouse directly to it?

I intend to buy the tanilized timber lats - would you treat them any
more before use?

You are creating a problem which is unnecesary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it can
never blow away once glazed anyway.

You are creating a problem which is unnecesary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it can
never blow away once glazed anyway.

Where are you living?
Here every winter we have winds gusting to at least 80mph, last winter
3 lots to 98mph (We can see the Mumbles light house from here and are
450ft higher than they are, and the met office record wind speed
there).
There is no way a glasshouse would stay put if it wasn't anchored
firmly to a good heavy base.
Bolt the house to the concrete, with just a damp proof membrane to
keep the aluminium off the concrete, better to be safe than sorry.

David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

"Dave Hill" wrote in message
oups.com...

You are creating a problem which is unnecesary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it
will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it
can
never blow away once glazed anyway.

Where are you living?
Here every winter we have winds gusting to at least 80mph, last winter
3 lots to 98mph (We can see the Mumbles light house from here and are
450ft higher than they are, and the met office record wind speed
there).
There is no way a glasshouse would stay put if it wasn't anchored
firmly to a good heavy base.
Bolt the house to the concrete, with just a damp proof membrane to
keep the aluminium off the concrete, better to be safe than sorry.


Our site is a bit less windy than yours I think, but last week I noticed a
clean strip on the blocks the GH is sat on, and it appears the recent winds
have moved the GH 3 - 4 inches to leeward. I'll have to re-mount it later in
the year when the weather is favourable.

Steve

On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 21:45:40 GMT, "Phil L"
wrote:

Mr Green wrote:
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

Why?

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides

I am minded to lay the wooden base lats on a mortar mix - just a skim
on three sides and then half-inch on the fourth.

Any points? - use a mortar mix or some other pre-prepared mastic or
similar - or even make as level as possible with mortar - let it go
off - and then lay all timber on mastic?

Why not let it go off, and then fix the greenhouse directly to it?

I intend to buy the tanilized timber lats - would you treat them any
more before use?

You are creating a problem which is unnecessary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it can
never blow away once glazed anyway.


I am following the instructions which say that you should put wood
between the greenhouse and the base; indeed, the greenhouse sills are
not flat - they need putting on a wooden support - they would not rest
level straight on the base.

I did not think that tanilized timber will rot in a couple of years-
that is why I was planning to use it I thought that it would last
about ten years - is this incorrect?

On 16 Mar, 19:10, Mr Green wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 21:45:40 GMT, "Phil L"
wrote:



Mr Green wrote:
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

Why?

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides

I am minded to lay the wooden base lats on a mortar mix - just a skim
on three sides and then half-inch on the fourth.

Any points? - use a mortar mix or some other pre-prepared mastic or
similar - or even make as level as possible with mortar - let it go
off - and then lay all timber on mastic?

Why not let it go off, and then fix the greenhouse directly to it?

I intend to buy the tanilized timber lats - would you treat them any
more before use?

You are creating a problem which is unnecessary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it can
never blow away once glazed anyway.

I am following the instructions which say that you should put wood
between the greenhouse and the base; indeed, the greenhouse sills are
not flat - they need putting on a wooden support - they would not rest
level straight on the base.

I did not think that tanilized timber will rot in a couple of years-
that is why I was planning to use it I thought that it would last
about ten years - is this incorrect?

On 16 Mar, 19:10, Mr Green wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2007 21:45:40 GMT, "Phil L"
wrote:



Mr Green wrote:
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.

Why?

The base is not perfectly level - once side appears to be about half
an inch on the low side wrt the other three sides

I am minded to lay the wooden base lats on a mortar mix - just a skim
on three sides and then half-inch on the fourth.

Any points? - use a mortar mix or some other pre-prepared mastic or
similar - or even make as level as possible with mortar - let it go
off - and then lay all timber on mastic?

Why not let it go off, and then fix the greenhouse directly to it?

I intend to buy the tanilized timber lats - would you treat them any
more before use?

You are creating a problem which is unnecessary - the timber will rot -
especially if it's only half an inch thick, and within a few years it will
be gone, leaving gaps which the GH will slip into...simply use bolts or
screws direct into the concrete if you wish to fix it down, although it can
never blow away once glazed anyway.

I am following the instructions which say that you should put wood
between the greenhouse and the base; indeed, the greenhouse sills are
not flat - they need putting on a wooden support - they would not rest
level straight on the base.

I did not think that tanilized timber will rot in a couple of years-
that is why I was planning to use it I thought that it would last
about ten years - is this incorrect?

I would use the larger size of tile baton that the builders merchants
sell, and then keep it dry for a few days and give it a couple of
coats of a good wood preserver the last coat containing a water
repellent, then use a damp proof membrane between the concrete and the
timber.
Whilst the timber is tanalized, they are batch treated and the quality
of treatment is very variable so it is best to do it yourself.
I have bats' go off in less than 2 years whilst othere can last 6, 7
or even 8 yrs,

David Hill
Abacus Nurseries

Mr Green wrote:
I am reseating a greenhouse on a concrete base - about 8ft x 6ft.

I will seat it on tanilized timber lats of say half inch x one and a
half inches - with rawl-bolts in the base - through the lats - and
then through the green-house base.


I am following the instructions which say that you should put wood
between the greenhouse and the base; indeed, the greenhouse sills are
not flat - they need putting on a wooden support - they would not rest
level straight on the base.

I did not think that tanilized timber will rot in a couple of years-
that is why I was planning to use it I thought that it would last
about ten years - is this incorrect?

If you are going to all this trouble why not do the job properly and use
hardwood. Go to a good timber merchant and see what they have. They may even
have some oak floorboards or the like that are sub standard and can be
bought for little more than tanilized pine. Still treat it before use and it
will outlast you.

Some 25 years ago I knocked up a gate for a chicken run out of the best
flat/thin pieces of oak from a load of slabwood sawmill waste bought as
firewood. I also repaired the chicken hut with oak from the same batch,
including 100% of the frame around the bottom. Only last month I visited the
present owners of the cottage (it has changed hands twice, and friends of my
son now own it) and was pleasantly surprised to see the same old chicken hut
and run, complete with my scrapwood gate still in use. I don't know about
other owners but I certainly never treated that wood in any way.

Mike