This summer I intend running electricity to my greenhouse for power and
light.

It's about a 35m total cable run from a dedicated breaker on my distribution
board and will be 4mm Twin/Earth (inside) and SWA (outside/buried).

It can be a pretty moist/condensing environment so I have already installed
some IP65 fittings like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TNC36.html

My first thought was to use MK Masterseal switches and sockets in the
greenhouse, with a local master isolation switch like this:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMDX032.html

Question is should I separately fuse the sockets/lighting circuits in the
greenouse or not? Since the whole installation will effectively be an
RCB/MCB protected "spur" is local fusing necessary at all?

Thoughts appreciated.


David

On Sat, 10 Mar 2007 18:30:54 -0000, "Vortex"
wrote:

This summer I intend running electricity to my greenhouse for power and
light.

It's about a 35m total cable run from a dedicated breaker on my distribution
board and will be 4mm Twin/Earth (inside) and SWA (outside/buried).

It can be a pretty moist/condensing environment so I have already installed
some IP65 fittings like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TNC36.html

My first thought was to use MK Masterseal switches and sockets in the
greenhouse, with a local master isolation switch like this:
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMDX032.html

Question is should I separately fuse the sockets/lighting circuits in the
greenouse or not? Since the whole installation will effectively be an
RCB/MCB protected "spur" is local fusing necessary at all?

Thoughts appreciated.


David



I did a provisioning for the greenhouse last year and used Masterseal
components for all the outlets and components.

The power outlets are obvious enough.

The Masterseal range includes a lot more components than TLC carries
(or shows on their web site.

http://www.mkelectric.co.uk/PDF/tech...RSEAL_prod.pdf


I used an FCU unit into which I fitted a 3A fuse as a way to protect
the lighting parts, but cabling from it at the back rather than
through the hole in the front plate.

Also in the range are empty boxes that can be used as junction boxes
and a neat job can be made.

I used IP65 fluorescents as you have as well as some low voltage
halogen lights which run from an IP65 transformer.




--

..andy

On 10 Mar, 18:30, "Vortex" wrote:

This summer I intend running electricity to my greenhouse for power and
light.

It's about a 35m total cable run from a dedicated breaker on my distribution
board and will be 4mm Twin/Earth (inside) and SWA (outside/buried).

It can be a pretty moist/condensing environment so I have already installed
some IP65 fittings like this:

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/TNC36.html

My first thought was to use MK Masterseal switches and sockets in the
greenhouse, with a local master isolation switch like this:http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CMDX032.html

Question is should I separately fuse the sockets/lighting circuits in the
greenouse or not? Since the whole installation will effectively be an
RCB/MCB protected "spur" is local fusing necessary at all?

Thoughts appreciated.

David

One way or another it needs its own fuse & rcd else will be a
reliability problem for the house wiring too.


NT

On Mar 10, 6:30 pm, "Vortex" wrote:
It can be a pretty moist/condensing environment so I have already installed
some IP65 fittings like this:
My first thought was to use MK Masterseal switches and sockets in the
greenhouse, with a local master isolation switch like this:http://www.tlc-
direct.co.uk/Products/CMDX032.html

Out of curiosity, how did you do the internal cabling?

Heavy duty 20mm conduit is tough, but not easily sealed & requires a
drain hole at the lowest point. HiTuf & IP68 cable glands seem to make
best use of IP56-65 rated sockets/lights/switches (ie, maintain IP
rating).

HiTuf may not be as tough as heavy duty conduit.
SWA seems either overkill or difficult to install in greenhouses/
sheds.
--
JSB.

On 11 Mar 2007 07:31:31 -0700, wrote:


Out of curiosity, how did you do the internal cabling?

Heavy duty 20mm conduit is tough, but not easily sealed & requires a
drain hole at the lowest point. HiTuf & IP68 cable glands seem to make
best use of IP56-65 rated sockets/lights/switches (ie, maintain IP
rating).


I used 20mm plastic conduit with shallow bends for going through 90
degrees. For the obtuse angles, I warmed lengths of conduit and bent
it around a slightly undersized curved former. On cooling, it
springs back slightly. Joints were made with solvent welding.

conduit runs were arranged to accomodate low points with drain holes.





HiTuf may not be as tough as heavy duty conduit.

Probably not, but would probably be adequate unless one is going to
swing a spade around.


SWA seems either overkill or difficult to install in greenhouses/
sheds.

Both.


--

..andy