Hi, some advice would be appreciated!

We've had an extension built and wish to fit a venetian blind (already made
to measure and delivered) into the window recess.

Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard which
prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before, using
plasterboard plugs. As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure about making
holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it would work. The
builder has advised that the window company won't invalidate the guarantee
if I do this.

This must be a reasonably common problem - can someone advise? Is there
another solution using some kind of adhesive? ("No more nails?") And if the
answer is to make holes in the plastic window frame, any advice on how to do
it so it won't fall down?

Thanks.

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Timbo wrote:
Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard
which prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before,
using plasterboard plugs.

Most plasterboard fixings need quite a lot of room behind the board to
enable them to expand. These Fischer Plasterboard Plugs use much less space
(see pictures)
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...6589&ts=89807#

Or you could try these Metal Easi-Drivers , very strong fix & not much
longer than the thickness of the board
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...90027&id=11595

With 12mm board & a 3mm skim you should have room for either. Stick a
bradawl through till it touches the lintel & measure the depth.

As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure
about making holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it
would work. The builder has advised that the window company won't
invalidate the guarantee if I do this.

I have used twin thread woodscrews before, if the client gives permission.
They grip into upvc very well. Straight in with drill driver, no pilot.


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 1 Mar, 23:05, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Timbo wrote:
Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard
which prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before,
using plasterboard plugs.

Most plasterboard fixings need quite a lot of room behind the board to
enable them to expand. These Fischer Plasterboard Plugs use much less space
(see pictures)http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...6589&ts=89807#

Or you could try these Metal Easi-Drivers , very strong fix & not much
longer than the thickness of the boardhttp://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100067&ts=90027&id=11595

With 12mm board & a 3mm skim you should have room for either. Stick a
bradawl through till it touches the lintel & measure the depth.

As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure
about making holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it
would work. The builder has advised that the window company won't
invalidate the guarantee if I do this.

I have used twin thread woodscrews before, if the client gives permission.
They grip into upvc very well. Straight in with drill driver, no pilot.

--
Dave
The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

I agree with Dave on this, just screw into the plastic but make sure
your screws aren't too long as they might go right through the frame
and foul the window.
Another way to do it is to fix the brackets to the side of the recess,
i.e. into the wall. Most blind fittings have holes in their brackets
to allow this.
Richard, Malvern

"Timbo" wrote in message
. uk...
Hi, some advice would be appreciated!

We've had an extension built and wish to fit a venetian blind (already
made to measure and delivered) into the window recess.

Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard which
prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before, using
plasterboard plugs. As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure about
making holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it would work.
The builder has advised that the window company won't invalidate the
guarantee if I do this.

This must be a reasonably common problem - can someone advise? Is there
another solution using some kind of adhesive? ("No more nails?") And if
the answer is to make holes in the plastic window frame, any advice on how
to do it so it won't fall down?

Thanks.

--
Change red to blue in email address.
If the lintel is catnic or lintray type then the underside is only about
2mm thick use self tap screws and fix into the lintel

If it is an RSJ then not so easy but I have drilled and tapped RSJs for
fixings in the past though not when cased in plasterboard

Incidentally how was the plasterboard fixed to the lintel in the first
place?

Tony

fido wrote:
On 1 Mar, 23:05, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:
Timbo wrote:
Unfortunately there is a steel lintel right above the plasterboard
which prevents me top mounting the blind in the way I've done before,
using plasterboard plugs.
Most plasterboard fixings need quite a lot of room behind the board to
enable them to expand. These Fischer Plasterboard Plugs use much less space
(see pictures)http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...6589&ts=89807#

Or you could try these Metal Easi-Drivers , very strong fix & not much
longer than the thickness of the boardhttp://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=100067&ts=90027&id=11595

With 12mm board & a 3mm skim you should have room for either. Stick a
bradawl through till it touches the lintel & measure the depth.

As the windows are upvc I'm really not sure
about making holes in the window frame, how to do it or whether it
would work. The builder has advised that the window company won't
invalidate the guarantee if I do this.
I have used twin thread woodscrews before, if the client gives permission.
They grip into upvc very well. Straight in with drill driver, no pilot.

--
Dave
The Medway Handymanwww.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

I agree with Dave on this, just screw into the plastic but make sure
your screws aren't too long as they might go right through the frame
and foul the window.
Another way to do it is to fix the brackets to the side of the recess,
i.e. into the wall. Most blind fittings have holes in their brackets
to allow this.
Richard, Malvern


Thanks for the advice.

I must admit I was expecting to be told NOT to make
holes in the UPVC!

Can you advise what length screws to go for if I'm
going into the UPVC? How thick is the UPVC, I've
always imagined it's very thin with lots of air behind
it.

Re twin thread woodscrews, are they easy to get at say
B&Q? (I'm only a casual DIY-er...)

Tim


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Change red to blue in email address when replying
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timbo wrote:

I must admit I was expecting to be told NOT to make
holes in the UPVC!

Can you advise what length screws to go for if I'm
going into the UPVC? How thick is the UPVC, I've
always imagined it's very thin with lots of air behind
it.

It's only 2-3mm thick, but there might be more than one layer of plastic
which you can drill through. Sometimes there's a metal frame hidden
somewhere inside the upvc - you can drill and screw through as many layers
as you like, or you can accept it as a limit. Stopping before you see
daylight is considered good form.

Re twin thread woodscrews, are they easy to get at say
B&Q? (I'm only a casual DIY-er...)

Dead easy - look at the depth of your blind fittings, and choose a screw
length that will stick out for 25mm or so beyond that.

Buy a small pack of self-tapping screws if you want something really simple,
or a pack of twinthread woodscrews (threaded for full length of screw) if
you want to keep the rest for future odd-jobs. No. 6 size will be fine if
there's several screws going in at each end, probably No.8 if there's only
one at each end.

Use a 2mm drill, or a hand bradawl, or any other sharp pointy thing, to make
a pilot hole where the screw is going to go. Needs to be about half the
width of the screws you're going to use. This will reduce any problems with
slipping, and helps to double check measurements.

If you're not sure you've lined it up correctly, just move it - the
redundant screw hole is likely to be hidden under the fitting anyway, but if
not a dab of paint or tippex will cover it.

..

Steve Walker wrote:
timbo wrote:

I must admit I was expecting to be told NOT to make
holes in the UPVC!

Can you advise what length screws to go for if I'm
going into the UPVC? How thick is the UPVC, I've
always imagined it's very thin with lots of air behind
it.

It's only 2-3mm thick, but there might be more than one layer of plastic
which you can drill through. Sometimes there's a metal frame hidden
somewhere inside the upvc - you can drill and screw through as many layers
as you like, or you can accept it as a limit. Stopping before you see
daylight is considered good form.

Re twin thread woodscrews, are they easy to get at say
B&Q? (I'm only a casual DIY-er...)

Dead easy - look at the depth of your blind fittings, and choose a screw
length that will stick out for 25mm or so beyond that.

Buy a small pack of self-tapping screws if you want something really simple,
or a pack of twinthread woodscrews (threaded for full length of screw) if
you want to keep the rest for future odd-jobs. No. 6 size will be fine if
there's several screws going in at each end, probably No.8 if there's only
one at each end.

Use a 2mm drill, or a hand bradawl, or any other sharp pointy thing, to make
a pilot hole where the screw is going to go. Needs to be about half the
width of the screws you're going to use. This will reduce any problems with
slipping, and helps to double check measurements.

If you're not sure you've lined it up correctly, just move it - the
redundant screw hole is likely to be hidden under the fitting anyway, but if
not a dab of paint or tippex will cover it.

..




Great advice, thanks!

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