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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Shower isolator switch hot
Very hot!
I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Installed about a year ago, proper cable from RDC to switch then on to shower shower was new then too. Should it really get this hot? Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore but if I change the switch (expensive little buggers aint they) will this happen again? whats the cause? TIA -- Vass YZF-R1, CBR1000F Beer is the answer, but I can't remember the question. |
#2
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Shower isolator switch hot
In article ,
"Vass" writes: Very hot! I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Installed about a year ago, proper cable from RDC to switch then on to shower shower was new then too. Should it really get this hot? Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore but if I change the switch (expensive little buggers aint they) will this happen again? whats the cause? The shower draws a very high current, the highest of any of your domestic appliances. All the connections need to be of the highest quality. Any connection which isn't will generate heat. The heat itself leads to deterioration of the connection making it rapidly worse, generating even more heat. The bad connection could be one of the cable connections, or it could be the switch contact. One can often cause the other by conducting heat. Eventually you can get a fire. A shower switch is one switch where you really must buy a good quality one. It will have better contacts, and better cable connections than the cheap end of the range. If the cable has got hot (which it probably has), it may need replacing too. If you're lucky, there will be enough slack to cut the damaged ends off and pull more through. You really want to avoid joining this cable if possible, as that just introduces further points where it might overheat. Make sure the copper conductors are bright and shiney before you insert them into the terminals, and do the screws up tight. It would be a good idea to check the state of all the other connections on that circuit too, including retightening the screws, and to recheck the tightness of the new connections after a month or so. -- Andrew Gabriel |
#3
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Shower isolator switch hot
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
You really want to avoid joining this cable if possible, as that just introduces further points where it might overheat. Make sure the copper conductors are bright and shiney before you insert them into the terminals, and do the screws up tight. It would be a good idea to check the state of all the other connections on that circuit too, including retightening the screws, and to recheck the tightness of the new connections after a month or so. thanks Andrew - there is a join in the garage (choc block) as I bought too short a langth of cable, I will go buy a better switch and new cable this morning and do the job properly thanks again -- Vass |
#4
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Shower isolator switch hot
6mm cable
45W switch into 40 trip switch on fusebox all ok? -- Vass. |
#5
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Shower isolator switch hot
Vass wrote:
I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Hmmm - maybe it's faulty? Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore Hmmm - it's faulty. David |
#6
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Shower isolator switch hot
In article ,
Vass wrote: You really want to avoid joining this cable if possible, as that just introduces further points where it might overheat. Make sure the copper conductors are bright and shiney before you insert them into the terminals, and do the screws up tight. It would be a good idea to check the state of all the other connections on that circuit too, including retightening the screws, and to recheck the tightness of the new connections after a month or so. thanks Andrew - there is a join in the garage (choc block) as I bought too short a langth of cable, I will go buy a better switch and new cable this morning and do the job properly thanks again A choc block is only satisfactory in a suitable flame proof enclosure. Best to use a junction box designed for the job - they're not expensive. However that won't cause the switch to overheat. Most likely cause is loose switch terminals. Like all such things they should be tight - it's pretty difficult to break them. So use a standard screwdriver with a blade the same width as the screw - so called electricians types often aren't suitable. -- *According to my calculations, the problem doesn't exist. Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#7
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Shower isolator switch hot
In article ,
Vass writes 6mm cable 45W switch into 40 trip switch on fusebox all ok? If you're not at the shops already then 10mm2 would be more future proof: 6mm2 in free air or trunking is ok up to 8.5 kW but you can lose 5% of the power in the cabling on a long run. If you have a run through insulation then it should be 10 (or move it out of the insulation). 10mm2 is needed for 9kW or above and will lose less power to the cable. Figures courtesy of TLC electrical: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technica...ltageDrop.html Rest looks fine if you're under 9kW -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#8
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Shower isolator switch hot
"fred" wrote in message ...
In article , Vass writes 6mm cable 45W switch into 40 trip switch on fusebox all ok? If you're not at the shops already then 10mm2 would be more future proof: 6mm2 in free air or trunking is ok up to 8.5 kW but you can lose 5% of the power in the cabling on a long run. If you have a run through insulation then it should be 10 (or move it out of the insulation). 10mm2 is needed for 9kW or above and will lose less power to the cable. Thanks Fred I was wrong, I have 10mm and the Shower is 10.5kW I have opted for a switch to be situated outside the bathroom that way the cable will run straight up from the garage to the airing cupboard which is next to the bathroom and where the back wall of the shower is so becomes simple. proposing then 10.5kW shower 10mm cable 45w switch 40 trip switch on RCD'd CU -- Vass |
#9
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Shower isolator switch hot
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message ... A choc block is only satisfactory in a suitable flame proof enclosure. Best to use a junction box designed for the job - they're not expensive. Thanks Dave the Choc block is in a box butI will replace as suggested until I get the cable replaced Do you have a link so I know what to look for? thanks -- Vass |
#10
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Shower isolator switch hot
"Vass" wrote in message news:45bb2fea$0$8727
proposing then correction 9,5kW shower -- Vass |
#11
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Shower isolator switch hot
In article ,
Vass writes Thanks Fred I was wrong, I have 10mm and the Shower is 10.5kW I have opted for a switch to be situated outside the bathroom that way the cable will run straight up from the garage to the airing cupboard which is next to the bathroom and where the back wall of the shower is so becomes simple. proposing then 10.5kW shower 10mm cable 45w switch 40 trip switch on RCD'd CU Ok, 10mm2 is fine unless it's passing through insulation, move it (cable or ins) if it is. Real world load (the uk is really 240V, not yet 230V) is just shy of 44A so switch is fine but breaker is a bit light. At 10% overload it won't burst into flames and probably will never trip but an upgrade to 45A might be something to add to the to-do list. -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#12
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Shower isolator switch hot
In article ,
Vass writes "Vass" wrote in message news:45bb2fea$0$8727 proposing then correction 9,5kW shower Ok, breaker fine too then. -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#13
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Shower isolator switch hot
Vass wrote:
the Choc block is in a box butI will replace as suggested until I get the cable replaced Do you have a link so I know what to look for? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#14
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Shower isolator switch hot
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Vass wrote: the Choc block is in a box butI will replace as suggested until I get the cable replaced Do you have a link so I know what to look for? http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AAJB60.html ordered thanks again to everyone for your assistance very much appreciated -- Vass |
#15
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Shower isolator switch hot
Vass wrote:
I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore Once its at this point it may catch fire at any moment during use. NT |
#16
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Shower isolator switch hot
wrote in message
ups.com... Vass wrote: I have found the 45w pull switch in the bathroom gets very hot while the shower is in use Oh, and this week it won't turn off anymore Once its at this point it may catch fire at any moment during use. glad I caught it then removed, binned, replaced with wall switch sorted -- Vass |
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