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Default Water repellent

I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.

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Default Water repellent

kev007 wrote:
I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be
good. Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm
hiring one of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.


If you're scampering around on ladders, it might be better to use a
back-pack garden sprayer. Will have to be discarded afterwards, but offers
advantages re portability & simplicity.


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Default Water repellent

In article om, kev208
@gmail.com thought we might be interested in the following...

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?


I imagine you'll need to ask for a coarse droplet, low pressure spray...

:-)

Or as someone else suggested, one of these :
http://www.hss.com/g/62650/Garden_Sprayer.html

What consistency is the repellent?
HSS have these listed as spayers :
http://www.hss.com/index.php?s=spray

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Default Water repellent

kev007 wrote:
I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?


Yes, lots, and the main thing that causes it is cracked pointing...don't
waste money on a fast cure like waterseal unless the pointing is 100%
perfect as it will very likely make it worse.
Water hits the brickwork and flows downwards, obviously.
some of it soaks into the face of the brick, so during light rain, hardly
any will run down the wall - if the pointing has cracked and failed in the
horizontal joints, the water seeps through, soaking the inner brickwork
behind your plaster.
If you apply a waterseal, *no* water will soak into the brick face and all
of it will come through the mortar - get it repointed first and allow a few
weeks for the mortar to completely cure and for most of the retained water
to evaporate, then apply the waterseal, although it probably won't be
required.

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be
good. Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm
hiring one of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.


As the others have suggested, a garden sprayer would suffice - you don't
have to do it with a sprayer at all, it's just that more will get wasted
than if you do it with a brush and then you'll have to go and buy more,
hence the reccomendation.
The consistency of it is similar to turps, IE, like **** - if you do it on a
windy day with a sprayer, it'll be all over the place


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Default Water repellent

"kev007" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.


I've applied it with a cheap garden sprayer. Balancing how much its pumped
up with unscrewing the nozzle a bit to flood the surface rather than
spraying. Watch the wind if you spray, it will drift in the slightest breeze
and is easily seen on cars and windows. I couldn't find any data sheets on
the Sovereign site but I know some products require the surface to be kept
dry for 30 days before application!. There are water based products on the
market but no knowledge of them. I don't know what the BS6477 that some
products meet contains.

PeterK




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Default Water repellent


Yes, lots, and the main thing that causes it is cracked pointing...don't
waste money on a fast cure like waterseal unless the pointing is 100%
perfect as it will very likely make it worse.


The pointing is pretty sound. Done a few years back and a good job.

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Default Water repellent


"kev007" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.

When spraying at height check for spray drift, on window , washing, cars and
your neighbours property


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Default Water repellent

kev007 wrote:
Yes, lots, and the main thing that causes it is cracked
pointing...don't waste money on a fast cure like waterseal unless
the pointing is 100% perfect as it will very likely make it worse.


The pointing is pretty sound. Done a few years back and a good job.


In that case, I'd leave it until summer....this stuff has a tendency to trap
moisture inside the brickwork, and also won't penetrate very deep on damp
bricks...warm, dry bricks are what you want, and give it as many coats as
you can get on in the day....£££ providing of course.


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Default Water repellent

kev007 wrote:

I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.


you need to read this
http://periodpropertyshop.co.uk/phpB...pic.php?t=6777


NT

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Default Water repellent


"kev007" wrote in message
ps.com...
I'm planning to paint the gable end of my Victorian terrace with
siliconce water repellent to stop penetrating damp. Anyone any
experience of this?

I'm looking at some repellent from Sovereign which is meant to be good.
Best applied with a coarse droplet low pressure spray.If I'm hiring one
of these from HSS, what exactly am I looking for?

Any other tips would be great.


I'd go for Liquid Plastics K501 rather than the Sovereign stuff:

http://www.liquidplastics.co.uk/Product.asp?id=163

JellyBelly




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Default Water repellent

JellyBelly wrote:


I'd go for Liquid Plastics K501 rather than the Sovereign stuff:

http://www.liquidplastics.co.uk/Product.asp?id=163

JellyBelly


I totally agree. I used to work for Liquid Plastics many years ago and
was forever going to view failed silicone treated walls. The problem
with silicones is that they sit on the surface and do not penetrate the
substrate. All exposed substrates degrade over time. The silicone
degrades with it. The LPL K 501 penetrates to about 2-3mm (including
mortar) according to the porosity of the substrate at the time of
application, (best used after a dry summer)..

We used to walk away from failed silicone treatments as they stayed
waterproof in some places and prevented K501 penetrating. The remaining
siliconed areas would eventually fail and Liquid Plastics would get the
blame. Moral dont use silicone!

I no longer work for LP but have the highest respect for their products.

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Default Water repellent

Merryterry wrote:
JellyBelly wrote:

I'd go for Liquid Plastics K501 rather than the Sovereign stuff:

http://www.liquidplastics.co.uk/Product.asp?id=163

JellyBelly


I totally agree. I used to work for Liquid Plastics many years ago and
was forever going to view failed silicone treated walls. The problem
with silicones is that they sit on the surface and do not penetrate the
substrate. All exposed substrates degrade over time. The silicone
degrades with it. The LPL K 501 penetrates to about 2-3mm (including
mortar) according to the porosity of the substrate at the time of
application, (best used after a dry summer)..

We used to walk away from failed silicone treatments as they stayed
waterproof in some places and prevented K501 penetrating. The remaining
siliconed areas would eventually fail and Liquid Plastics would get the
blame. Moral dont use silicone!

I no longer work for LP but have the highest respect for their products.


IIRC the Sovereign products are based on siloxanes. Unlike silicone,
they don't form a film, but stay as rubbery pellets which are apparently
carried further into the brickwork by water.
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