Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen

On 2006-12-16 17:23:15 +0000, said:

Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen

Even though the floor boards are apparently level, they can be subject
to movement, which is the last thing you need. Therefore, laying a
sheet of ply would be a good idea because you can then guarantee a firm
and absolutely flat base. The ply can be 12mm if the floor is sound
and screwed to the existing floor at regular intervals. It would be a
good idea to lift a floorboard or two and to check for pipes and
cables. Cables should be run through holes at least 50mm from the
surface, but it would not be unknown for them to run in notches in the
joists.

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around things
like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it is much
harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply and tiling
done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Slate can be cut using an electric tile saw with a diamond blade.
It is not hard to do if you take it slowly, but plenty of water is
required. Powertools like jigsaws are not really suitable.

You will then need a good quality adhesive suitable for slate (e.g.
products from BAL or Ardex) and allow for a sufficient depth (probably
about 6-8mm on a flat surface). The slate hould be carefully washed
after cutting and in any case before use, allowed to dry. You may wish
to use a colour enhancer at this stage. These will raise the colours
without making the slate look glossy and plastic in appearance (hence
ruining the look). For this, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier is a good
product. Otherwise you can give one coat of a good quality sealer
such as Lithofin MN Stainstop. The first coat is to prevent staining
by adhesives or grouts. Fix the tiles in place, and allow the
appropriate time for the adhesive to harden. Then grout and clean
that up. For a slate floor, it is usually a bad idea to use a white
grout because it will tend to discolour and not look appropriate in the
first place. Generally, grey or mid grey works well with most types
of slate.
Finally, another 2 coats of Stainstop will seal the slate and the
grout. These treatments appear to be relatively expensive but can be
applied sparingly and go a very long way. 500ml containers may be
enough for your needs for example.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-12-16 17:23:15 +0000, said:

Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen

Even though the floor boards are apparently level, they can be subject
to movement, which is the last thing you need. Therefore, laying a
sheet of ply would be a good idea because you can then guarantee a firm
and absolutely flat base. The ply can be 12mm if the floor is sound
and screwed to the existing floor at regular intervals. It would be a
good idea to lift a floorboard or two and to check for pipes and
cables. Cables should be run through holes at least 50mm from the
surface, but it would not be unknown for them to run in notches in the
joists.

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around things
like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it is much
harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply and tiling
done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Slate can be cut using an electric tile saw with a diamond blade.
It is not hard to do if you take it slowly, but plenty of water is
required. Powertools like jigsaws are not really suitable.

You will then need a good quality adhesive suitable for slate (e.g.
products from BAL or Ardex) and allow for a sufficient depth (probably
about 6-8mm on a flat surface). The slate hould be carefully washed
after cutting and in any case before use, allowed to dry. You may wish
to use a colour enhancer at this stage. These will raise the colours
without making the slate look glossy and plastic in appearance (hence
ruining the look). For this, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier is a good
product. Otherwise you can give one coat of a good quality sealer
such as Lithofin MN Stainstop. The first coat is to prevent staining
by adhesives or grouts. Fix the tiles in place, and allow the
appropriate time for the adhesive to harden. Then grout and clean
that up. For a slate floor, it is usually a bad idea to use a white
grout because it will tend to discolour and not look appropriate in the
first place. Generally, grey or mid grey works well with most types
of slate.
Finally, another 2 coats of Stainstop will seal the slate and the
grout. These treatments appear to be relatively expensive but can be
applied sparingly and go a very long way. 500ml containers may be
enough for your needs for example.

Thanks Andy

Andy Hall wrote:

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around
things like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it
is much harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply
and tiling done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Ain't that the truth!

Thats what I do if asked to lay laminate flooring in a bathroom - if I can't
talk them out of it.......


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On 2006-12-17 11:04:20 +0000, "The Medway Handyman"
said:

Andy Hall wrote:

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around
things like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it
is much harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply
and tiling done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Ain't that the truth!

Thats what I do if asked to lay laminate flooring in a bathroom - if I
can't talk them out of it.......

Sigh... where needs must, the Devil drives.....

wrote:
Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen


First of all get rid of the florboards and screw down something
stable..you might as well use water resistant ply..

Then use a thick base of flexible cement, or the tiles will crack up.
Buy a rotary diamond disc tile cutter for the fancy work. It makes
mincemeat of cutting.

In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around
things like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it
is much harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply
and tiling done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Ain't that the truth!

Thats what I do if asked to lay laminate flooring in a bathroom - if I
can't talk them out of it.......

I thought laminate floor had to be able to move slightly? Doesn't fixing a
toilet pan through it stop this?

--
*How about "never"? Is "never" good for you?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article ,
The Medway Handyman wrote:
The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around
things like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it
is much harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply
and tiling done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Ain't that the truth!

Thats what I do if asked to lay laminate flooring in a bathroom - if I
can't talk them out of it.......

I thought laminate floor had to be able to move slightly? Doesn't fixing a
toilet pan through it stop this?

It doesn't *have* to be able to move..its just that it *will* if its
not...bolted down firmly ..by e.g. a toilet pan screwed through it..
:-)

On Sun, 17 Dec 2006 18:50:48 +0000, The Natural Philosopher
wrote:

wrote:
Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen


First of all get rid of the florboards and screw down something
stable..you might as well use water resistant ply..

Then use a thick base of flexible cement, or the tiles will crack up.
Buy a rotary diamond disc tile cutter for the fancy work. It makes
mincemeat of cutting.

Replacing the floorboards with ply (and maybe stiffing the joists with
some noggins especially in an old house ) could reduce the extra floor
thickness you will otherwise end up
Robert

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-12-16 17:23:15 +0000, said:

Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen

Even though the floor boards are apparently level, they can be subject
to movement, which is the last thing you need. Therefore, laying a
sheet of ply would be a good idea because you can then guarantee a firm
and absolutely flat base. The ply can be 12mm if the floor is sound
and screwed to the existing floor at regular intervals. It would be a
good idea to lift a floorboard or two and to check for pipes and
cables. Cables should be run through holes at least 50mm from the
surface, but it would not be unknown for them to run in notches in the
joists.

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around things
like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it is much
harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply and tiling
done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Slate can be cut using an electric tile saw with a diamond blade.
It is not hard to do if you take it slowly, but plenty of water is
required. Powertools like jigsaws are not really suitable.

You will then need a good quality adhesive suitable for slate (e.g.
products from BAL or Ardex) and allow for a sufficient depth (probably
about 6-8mm on a flat surface). The slate hould be carefully washed
after cutting and in any case before use, allowed to dry. You may wish
to use a colour enhancer at this stage. These will raise the colours
without making the slate look glossy and plastic in appearance (hence
ruining the look). For this, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier is a good
product. Otherwise you can give one coat of a good quality sealer
such as Lithofin MN Stainstop. The first coat is to prevent staining
by adhesives or grouts. Fix the tiles in place, and allow the
appropriate time for the adhesive to harden. Then grout and clean
that up. For a slate floor, it is usually a bad idea to use a white
grout because it will tend to discolour and not look appropriate in the
first place. Generally, grey or mid grey works well with most types
of slate.
Finally, another 2 coats of Stainstop will seal the slate and the
grout. These treatments appear to be relatively expensive but can be
applied sparingly and go a very long way. 500ml containers may be
enough for your needs for example.

On the subject of pipes... What is the best method to cut the slates
around radiator pipes, etc? Can you nip it like ceramic tiles?

wrote:
Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-12-16 17:23:15 +0000, said:

Hi,

Our bathroom currently has bare floorboards and am looking to lay slate
tiles. The area is fairly small (~3m2) and the floor is pretty level.

What is the best way to do this? Presume I need to prepare the floor
first to lay the tiles? Obviously there is a number of obstacles to
fit around (Toilet, Sink, etc). What is the best way of cutting slate
tiles? I have a good jijsaw, can you get appropriate blades?

Thanks in advance

Will Owen
Even though the floor boards are apparently level, they can be subject
to movement, which is the last thing you need. Therefore, laying a
sheet of ply would be a good idea because you can then guarantee a firm
and absolutely flat base. The ply can be 12mm if the floor is sound
and screwed to the existing floor at regular intervals. It would be a
good idea to lift a floorboard or two and to check for pipes and
cables. Cables should be run through holes at least 50mm from the
surface, but it would not be unknown for them to run in notches in the
joists.

The second and associated point is not to attempt to tile around things
like washbasins and toilets. The results will be poor and it is much
harder to do. These things should be taken out, the ply and tiling
done and then the sanitaryware replaced.

Slate can be cut using an electric tile saw with a diamond blade.
It is not hard to do if you take it slowly, but plenty of water is
required. Powertools like jigsaws are not really suitable.

You will then need a good quality adhesive suitable for slate (e.g.
products from BAL or Ardex) and allow for a sufficient depth (probably
about 6-8mm on a flat surface). The slate hould be carefully washed
after cutting and in any case before use, allowed to dry. You may wish
to use a colour enhancer at this stage. These will raise the colours
without making the slate look glossy and plastic in appearance (hence
ruining the look). For this, Lithofin MN Colour Intensifier is a good
product. Otherwise you can give one coat of a good quality sealer
such as Lithofin MN Stainstop. The first coat is to prevent staining
by adhesives or grouts. Fix the tiles in place, and allow the
appropriate time for the adhesive to harden. Then grout and clean
that up. For a slate floor, it is usually a bad idea to use a white
grout because it will tend to discolour and not look appropriate in the
first place. Generally, grey or mid grey works well with most types
of slate.
Finally, another 2 coats of Stainstop will seal the slate and the
grout. These treatments appear to be relatively expensive but can be
applied sparingly and go a very long way. 500ml containers may be
enough for your needs for example.

On the subject of pipes... What is the best method to cut the slates
around radiator pipes, etc? Can you nip it like ceramic tiles?

it cuts well with any diamond tools and files well also. I just nibbled
edges out with my diamond tile cutter wheel and smoothed em with a file..

On 2006-12-18 20:49:48 +0000, said:


On the subject of pipes... What is the best method to cut the slates
around radiator pipes, etc? Can you nip it like ceramic tiles?

Pretty much, although if the pipes are next to the wall, you can cut
out a notch using a series of cuts from the
edge using a tile saw, arranging the ends of the cuts to meet the edge
of a semicircle. Then if you need it, you can cut a section to fit
behind the pipe, although if it's only 10mm or so, probably not worth
it.

Andy Hall wrote:
On 2006-12-18 20:49:48 +0000, said:


On the subject of pipes... What is the best method to cut the slates
around radiator pipes, etc? Can you nip it like ceramic tiles?

Pretty much, although if the pipes are next to the wall, you can cut
out a notch using a series of cuts from the
edge using a tile saw, arranging the ends of the cuts to meet the edge
of a semicircle. Then if you need it, you can cut a section to fit
behind the pipe, although if it's only 10mm or so, probably not worth
it.

Cheers Guys.