The brother-in-law has an old car that he wanted to take to the breakers
yard and asked if I could charge the battery. It had been stood for
several months without starting so was flatter than a witches tit. I
measured the voltage at the terminals and it read 1.6volts. I said it
may be too far knackered but would give it a try. I have 2 battery
chargers, one is a new 3 phase charger from Lidl and the other a donkeys
years old basic 6amp charger with switchable 6 or 12 volts.

I tried to charge using the new 3 phase charger but it would not even
come out of standby mode. I then tried the old 6amp charger and when I
switched it on the needle on the amp meter started to rise & rise and
went completely off the scale. It was only connected for a few moments
and when I measured the battery voltage it now read over 13v so I
disconnected the old charger and reconnected the new 3 phase charger and
it now went into charge mode and was fully charged about 15 hours later.

I think this has damaged the old charger as when I now try and connect
the charger leads to a battery it causes a short with loads of sparks
(this is before the charger is switched on). If I switch on the charger
without the leads connected the charger makes a clicking sound as though
it's continually cutting on & off. I'm guessing that trying to charge a
battery so flat has forced more current from the charger than it was
designed to give? Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.

Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.


I guess you old charger contains nothing more than a big transformer and a
bridge rectifier. The rectifier contains 4 diodes to convert the AC from the
transformer to the DC for the battery. If one of the diodes goes short
circuit then you will get the effect you are seeing.

If you really want to resurrect the charger you could probably replace the
old bridge rectifier with a new one from Maplins for couple of quid (AR84F
looks suitable). But as modern cars and batteries are more susceptible to
mistreatment I would be tempted to just get rid of it.

Chris

"redwood" wrote in message
...
The brother-in-law has an old car that he wanted to take to the breakers
yard and asked if I could charge the battery. It had been stood for
several months without starting so was flatter than a witches tit. I
measured the voltage at the terminals and it read 1.6volts. I said it
may be too far knackered but would give it a try. I have 2 battery
chargers, one is a new 3 phase charger from Lidl and the other a donkeys
years old basic 6amp charger with switchable 6 or 12 volts.

I tried to charge using the new 3 phase charger but it would not even
come out of standby mode. I then tried the old 6amp charger and when I
switched it on the needle on the amp meter started to rise & rise and
went completely off the scale. It was only connected for a few moments
and when I measured the battery voltage it now read over 13v so I
disconnected the old charger and reconnected the new 3 phase charger and
it now went into charge mode and was fully charged about 15 hours later.

I think this has damaged the old charger as when I now try and connect
the charger leads to a battery it causes a short with loads of sparks
(this is before the charger is switched on). If I switch on the charger
without the leads connected the charger makes a clicking sound as though
it's continually cutting on & off. I'm guessing that trying to charge a
battery so flat has forced more current from the charger than it was
designed to give? Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.

Older battery chargers are usually very basic, generally consisting of a
mains transformer, rectifier, ammeter, and a fuse... I'd guess by the sound
of it that the rectifier has gone short circuit.

"Chris" wrote in message
...
Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.


I guess you old charger contains nothing more than a big transformer
and a bridge rectifier. The rectifier contains 4 diodes to convert the
AC from the transformer to the DC for the battery. If one of the
diodes goes short circuit then you will get the effect you are seeing.

If you really want to resurrect the charger you could probably replace
the old bridge rectifier with a new one from Maplins for couple of
quid (AR84F looks suitable). But as modern cars and batteries are more
susceptible to mistreatment I would be tempted to just get rid of it.

Thanks for the quick replies. I have now taken the back off and yes it
does look very basic inside. I can see the rectifier which has 4
connectors and a hole in the middle screwed into a thin sheet of metal
(or is that a heatshield). It has writing on the rectifier which says;

S4VB
10 (Hole) 84

I'm guessing that the 10 refers to 10amp (84 could be the year?). I've
looked at the Maplin code for AR84F and that is 25A. Would it cause any
problems using a higher amp or is it best to keep with a 10A? Cheers.

On Fri, 01 Dec 2006 20:15:54 -0000, redwood wrote:

"Chris" wrote in message
...
Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.


I guess you old charger contains nothing more than a big transformer
and a bridge rectifier. The rectifier contains 4 diodes to convert the
AC from the transformer to the DC for the battery. If one of the diodes
goes short circuit then you will get the effect you are seeing.

If you really want to resurrect the charger you could probably replace
the old bridge rectifier with a new one from Maplins for couple of quid
(AR84F looks suitable). But as modern cars and batteries are more
susceptible to mistreatment I would be tempted to just get rid of it.

Thanks for the quick replies. I have now taken the back off and yes it
does look very basic inside. I can see the rectifier which has 4
connectors and a hole in the middle screwed into a thin sheet of metal
(or is that a heatshield). It has writing on the rectifier which says;

S4VB
10 (Hole) 84

I'm guessing that the 10 refers to 10amp (84 could be the year?). I've
looked at the Maplin code for AR84F and that is 25A. Would it cause any
problems using a higher amp or is it best to keep with a 10A? Cheers.


Nope, that'll be fine.

redwood wrote:

connectors and a hole in the middle screwed into a thin sheet of metal
(or is that a heatshield).

That wil be a heat*sink* - deisnged to help cool the rectifier. You will
need to fit something similar to the replacement part.

I'm guessing that the 10 refers to 10amp (84 could be the year?). I've
looked at the Maplin code for AR84F and that is 25A. Would it cause any
problems using a higher amp or is it best to keep with a 10A? Cheers.

Bigger (in this application) will be fine.

--
Cheers,

John.

/================================================== ===============\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\================================================= ================/

In article ,
"redwood" writes:

Thanks for the quick replies. I have now taken the back off and yes it
does look very basic inside. I can see the rectifier which has 4
connectors and a hole in the middle screwed into a thin sheet of metal
(or is that a heatshield). It has writing on the rectifier which says;

S4VB
10 (Hole) 84

I'm guessing that the 10 refers to 10amp (84 could be the year?). I've
looked at the Maplin code for AR84F and that is 25A. Would it cause any
problems using a higher amp or is it best to keep with a 10A? Cheers.

S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

--
Andrew Gabriel

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 15:20:13 -0000, redwood wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-


That should be right.

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

"Duncan Wood" wrote in message
newsp.tjxupjhyyuobwl@lucy...
On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 15:20:13 -0000, redwood wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-


That should be right.

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

Sylvain.

"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery, I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.


Most bridge rectifier are usually marked: ~ ~ (ac in) + - (dc out).

"Ivan" wrote in message
. uk...

"redwood" wrote in message
Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to
replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way
round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only
displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise
direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the
3rd terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

Most bridge rectifier are usually marked: ~ ~ (ac in) + - (dc out).

Looked all round using a magnifying glass but the only marks I could
find were on one edge similar to this pic
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/photos/rapid/brect5.jpg

In article ,
"Ivan" writes:

Most bridge rectifier are usually marked: ~ ~ (ac in) + - (dc out).

IME, only the +ve is normally marked on the square ones.
The -ve will be diagonally opposite, and the others are
the AC (doesn't matter which way around).

--
Andrew Gabriel

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Ivan" wrote in message
. uk...

"redwood" wrote in message
Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to
replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way
round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only
displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise
direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the
3rd terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

Most bridge rectifier are usually marked: ~ ~ (ac in) + - (dc out).

Looked all round using a magnifying glass but the only marks I could
find were on one edge similar to this pic
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/photos/rapid/brect5.jpg


Are the other two terminals on the other side of the rectifier similarly
marked AC & - ? ....if so then it's simply a matter of the mains transformer
connecting to the two terminals marked AC and the ones marked + & -
eventually finding their way to the respective battery terminals.

On 2006-12-02, redwood wrote:
"Ivan" wrote in message
. uk...

"redwood" wrote in message
Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to
replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way
round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only
displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise
direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the
3rd terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

Most bridge rectifier are usually marked: ~ ~ (ac in) + - (dc out).

Looked all round using a magnifying glass but the only marks I could
find were on one edge similar to this pic
http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/photos/rapid/brect5.jpg

The terminal marked AC is one AC connection, the other AC connection
goes to the corner diagonally opposite. The terminal marked "+"
is the DC+, the terminal opposite that is DC-.

--
David Taylor

On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 17:43:42 -0000, Sylvain VAN DER WALDE
wrote:


"Duncan Wood" wrote in message
newsp.tjxupjhyyuobwl@lucy...
On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 15:20:13 -0000, redwood wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way
round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the
3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-


That should be right.

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

Sylvain.



If there's no battery connected it'll be trying to measure a non-dc
waveform, how it does this will give a somewhat arbitrary result.

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery, I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.
I'm afraid not. With an unregulated supply, the voltage will drop when
connected to a load. It would be interesting to know what the transformer
voltage (AC) is with the rectifier disconnected. Those people more
knowledgeable than myself should be able to work out the expected DC
voltages (2 diodes in series dropping 1.5 VDC each ?). This would also check
whether the rectifier is correctly connected.

Sylvain.

In article ,
redwood wrote:
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery,

That would be a clever trick. ;-) Unless there is some form of electronics
regulating the output the open circuit voltage should be very much higher
than that. Have you measured the AC voltage direct across the transformer
- ie the input to the rectifier?

I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.

--
*Laugh alone and the world thinks you're an idiot.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote in message
...
In article ,
redwood wrote:
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery,

That would be a clever trick. ;-) Unless there is some form of electronics
regulating the output the open circuit voltage should be very much higher
than that. Have you measured the AC voltage direct across the transformer
- ie the input to the rectifier?

I seem to recall my cheap n nasty charger puts out around 12v when not
connected to a battery, but I've seen it reach 17v when charging a failing
battery after 12 hours or so. Which I don't think was good for the battery
but at least it was an old and tired one.

I'm thinking about Heath Robinsoning something using an old 240v AC motor
and spare alternator now...

In message , Stuffed
writes
That would be a clever trick. ;-) Unless there is some form of electronics
regulating the output the open circuit voltage should be very much higher
than that. Have you measured the AC voltage direct across the transformer
- ie the input to the rectifier?

I seem to recall my cheap n nasty charger puts out around 12v when not
connected to a battery, but I've seen it reach 17v when charging a failing
battery after 12 hours or so. Which I don't think was good for the battery
but at least it was an old and tired one.

What was the shape of the 12.06V though? The DVM was probably struggling
to realise it was DC, try putting a large-ish electrolytic cap' across
it to smooth it out and measure again.
--
Bill

On 2006-12-03, Sylvain VAN DER WALDE wrote:

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery, I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.
I'm afraid not. With an unregulated supply, the voltage will drop when
connected to a load. It would be interesting to know what the transformer
voltage (AC) is with the rectifier disconnected. Those people more
knowledgeable than myself should be able to work out the expected DC
voltages (2 diodes in series dropping 1.5 VDC each ?). This would also check
whether the rectifier is correctly connected.

Without smoothing capacitors (or a battery) it's not DC, though, it's
full-wave rectified AC...

--
David Taylor

"David Taylor" wrote in message
...
On 2006-12-03, Sylvain VAN DER WALDE
wrote:

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery, I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.
I'm afraid not. With an unregulated supply, the voltage will drop when
connected to a load. It would be interesting to know what the transformer
voltage (AC) is with the rectifier disconnected. Those people more
knowledgeable than myself should be able to work out the expected DC
voltages (2 diodes in series dropping 1.5 VDC each ?). This would also
check
whether the rectifier is correctly connected.

Without smoothing capacitors (or a battery) it's not DC, though, it's
full-wave rectified AC...

Hmm! I haven't seen a battery charger with a reservoir capacitor, a
smoothing capacitor, a choke, or series resistor; yet such chargers are DC
_in practice_, if not in theory.
Thanks for reminding me about capacitors; in a conventional power supply
they would raise the output voltage (not applicable in a basic battery
charger).

Sylvain.

--
David Taylor

On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 11:03:32 -0000, Dave Plowman (News)
wrote:

In article ,
redwood wrote:
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery,

That would be a clever trick. ;-) Unless there is some form of
electronics
regulating the output the open circuit voltage should be very much higher
than that. Have you measured the AC voltage direct across the transformer
- ie the input to the rectifier?

I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.



The DC voltage will rise when you attach a battery, as it will if you
attached a cap, in the former to the battery terminal voltage, in the
latter case to the peak voltage of the waveform.

On Sun, 03 Dec 2006 14:42:40 -0000, Sylvain VAN DER WALDE
wrote:


"David Taylor" wrote in message
...
On 2006-12-03, Sylvain VAN DER WALDE
wrote:

"redwood" wrote in message
...
"Sylvain VAN DER WALDE" wrote in
message
I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows
around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Is your meter reasonably accurate?
These voltage readings seem rather low.

I think the battery charger voltage increases when connected to a
battery, I will check it out tomorrow. cheers.
I'm afraid not. With an unregulated supply, the voltage will drop when
connected to a load. It would be interesting to know what the
transformer
voltage (AC) is with the rectifier disconnected. Those people more
knowledgeable than myself should be able to work out the expected DC
voltages (2 diodes in series dropping 1.5 VDC each ?). This would also
check
whether the rectifier is correctly connected.

Without smoothing capacitors (or a battery) it's not DC, though, it's
full-wave rectified AC...

Hmm! I haven't seen a battery charger with a reservoir capacitor, a
smoothing capacitor, a choke, or series resistor; yet such chargers are
DC
_in practice_, if not in theory.
Thanks for reminding me about capacitors; in a conventional power supply
they would raise the output voltage (not applicable in a basic battery
charger).

Sylvain.

--
David Taylor



They're not DC in practice, in pratice they supply a pulsed DC charge,
hence why they're all rated at RMS. Wheras the rate of charge is the
average current, which will be lower. Marketing :-)

In article ,
Sylvain VAN DER WALDE wrote:
Without smoothing capacitors (or a battery) it's not DC, though, it's
full-wave rectified AC...

Hmm! I haven't seen a battery charger with a reservoir capacitor, a
smoothing capacitor, a choke, or series resistor; yet such chargers are
DC _in practice_, if not in theory. Thanks for reminding me about
capacitors; in a conventional power supply they would raise the output
voltage (not applicable in a basic battery charger).

The battery acts as a vast capacitor, though.

--
*If you ate pasta and anti-pasta, would you still be hungry?

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Dec 1, 8:15 pm, "redwood" wrote:
"Chris" wrote in ...

Before I take a look inside (or bin the thing) I just
wondered if anyone had an idea what might have gone kaput.

I guess you old charger contains nothing more than a big transformer
and a bridge rectifier. The rectifier contains 4 diodes to convert the
AC from the transformer to the DC for the battery. If one of the
diodes goes short circuit then you will get the effect you are seeing.

If you really want to resurrect the charger you could probably replace
the old bridge rectifier with a new one from Maplins for couple of
quid (AR84F looks suitable). But as modern cars and batteries are more
susceptible to mistreatment I would be tempted to just get rid of it.Thanks for the quick replies. I have now taken the back off and yes it
does look very basic inside. I can see the rectifier which has 4
connectors and a hole in the middle screwed into a thin sheet of metal
(or is that a heatshield). It has writing on the rectifier which says;

S4VB
10 (Hole) 84

I'm guessing that the 10 refers to 10amp (84 could be the year?). I've

More likely week 10 1984

MBQ

redwood wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's twice
the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had to replace
the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing which way round
the - wires go as the only markings on the new rectifier only displayed
on one side showing the AC & +. Going round in a clockwise direction,
if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd
terminal to AC-, and the 4th terminal to DC-

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Don't buy anything from Maplins. My broadband started to go slow and my
ISP said I needed a new filter. Maplins said I needed new cable. I
bought new cable but the broadband speeded up again - must have been
BT. So I took the cable back. But because it had been machine packed
there is no way I would return it "in the same condition". The cable
WAS "in the same condition". But the idiots said the packing had to be
the same -- impossible!

If they want to get things back "correctly" they should use packing it
is possible to pack.

Every other company I've taken anything back to, in living memory has
accepted it back with full refund.

Except Maplins.

Don't even think of shopping with them.

On Mon, 4 Dec 2006 16:07:33 UTC, "Paul" wrote:

(snip)

Every other company I've taken anything back to, in living memory has
accepted it back with full refund.

Except Maplins.

Don't even think of shopping with them.

Yes, you said that.

--
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
Avenue Supplies, http://avenuesupplies.co.uk

Paul wrote:


redwood wrote:

"Andrew Gabriel" wrote in message
S4VB is a 4A bridge rectifier, and the 10 means 100V working.

A 10A or higher (50V or higher) bridge rectifier will be fine.
(A 4A bridge rectifier was obviously inadiquate.)
I would also get some heat sink compound to smear between the
new rectifier and the heatsink.

Got the rectifier from my local Maplins and is now fitted. It's
twice the size of the original with bigger spade connectors so had
to replace the ends of the 4 wires. It was a bit confusing knowing
which way round the - wires go as the only markings on the new
rectifier only displayed on one side showing the AC & +. Going
round in a clockwise direction, if the 1st terminal is AC+, the 2nd
terminal is DC+, I connected the 3rd terminal to AC-, and the 4th
terminal to DC-

I've not yet tried it connected to a battery but it now powers on
without clicking and connecting a DVM to the croc clips shows around
12.06v or 6.02 on the 6 volt setting. I shall give it a test on a
battery tomorrow.

Don't buy anything from Maplins. My broadband started to go slow and
my ISP said I needed a new filter. Maplins said I needed new cable. I
bought new cable but the broadband speeded up again - must have been
BT. So I took the cable back. But because it had been machine packed
there is no way I would return it "in the same condition". The cable
WAS "in the same condition". But the idiots said the packing had to be
the same -- impossible!

If they want to get things back "correctly" they should use packing it
is possible to pack.

Every other company I've taken anything back to, in living memory has
accepted it back with full refund.

Except Maplins.

Don't even think of shopping with them.


the goods had been used so they could not be sold on again as new they
coud not offer a warranty on the product and in law if the goods are
not faulty then thier is no reason why they should ecept them back

--

In message om, Paul
writes

Every other company I've taken anything back to, in living memory has
accepted it back with full refund.

Except Maplins.

Don't even think of shopping with them.

That's the trouble with dealing with toy shops manned by kids.


--
Bill

In article om,
Paul wrote:
Don't buy anything from Maplins.

You've just said that...

--
*Sticks and stones may break my bones but whips and chains excite me*

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
Bill wrote:
That's the trouble with dealing with toy shops manned by kids.

You expect a Maplin shop assistant to be an expert on every product sold
by them?

--
*Who is this General Failure chap anyway - and why is he reading my HD? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Bill wrote:
That's the trouble with dealing with toy shops manned by kids.

You expect a Maplin shop assistant to be an expert on every product sold
by them?

Not in the slightest, but I would expect them to know that for you to
prove a cable was unsuitable for the purpose that you bought it for that
you had to remove it from the packaging. I have seen a number of items
like this in Maplins in taped or stapled packets so presumably some of
their stores will accept them back.
The only Maplins that I had any confidence in was in Milton Keynes where
one member of staff, Marian, seemed to have a good working knowledge of
most of their range and if not knew who or where to ask. Unfortunately
she seems to have left.

--
Bill

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article om,
Paul wrote:
Don't buy anything from Maplins.

You've just said that...

He does seem to have a downer on Maplins at the moment, a couple of
similar posts have appeared elsewhere today.


--
Bill

In article ,
Bill wrote:
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes
In article ,
Bill wrote:
That's the trouble with dealing with toy shops manned by kids.

You expect a Maplin shop assistant to be an expert on every product sold
by them?

Not in the slightest, but I would expect them to know that for you to
prove a cable was unsuitable for the purpose that you bought it for that
you had to remove it from the packaging.

Eh? It's labelled with what it is. And in clear wrapping.

I have seen a number of items
like this in Maplins in taped or stapled packets so presumably some of
their stores will accept them back.

And are you happy to buy such secondhand goods? Or go for a new one
further back on the rack?

The only Maplins that I had any confidence in was in Milton Keynes where
one member of staff, Marian, seemed to have a good working knowledge of
most of their range and if not knew who or where to ask. Unfortunately
she seems to have left.

Probably fed up with rude 'know it all' customers. ;-) It's a job I
certainly wouldn't fancy. Although at least the MK branch has a better
stock than most.

--
*I have a degree in liberal arts -- do you want fries with that

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In message , "Dave Plowman (News)"
writes

Eh? It's labelled with what it is. And in clear wrapping.
Hang on this wasn't my argument in the first place, I believe that
Pauls point was that they wouldn't consider the return in anyway, OK it
was not faulty so they did not have to accept it but it has been known
in way of customer relations for them to do so in the past.


I have seen a number of items
like this in Maplins in taped or stapled packets so presumably some of
their stores will accept them back.

And are you happy to buy such secondhand goods? Or go for a new one
further back on the rack?
In the case of a lead would it really matter?


The only Maplins that I had any confidence in was in Milton Keynes where
one member of staff, Marian, seemed to have a good working knowledge of
most of their range and if not knew who or where to ask. Unfortunately
she seems to have left.

Probably fed up with rude 'know it all' customers. ;-)
You know the population of MK well then!!!!! ;-)

(I'm not from MK, thank God)



t's a job I
certainly wouldn't fancy. Although at least the MK branch has a better
stock than most.
It's turning into a Tandy rapidly though, although it did get me out of
a hole a while back when I needed 50+ 5K6 resistors in a hurry i.e. I
had the buses queuing up to have RT installed and they had fitted switch
mode 24V 12V convertors with an over active shut down circuit that
tripped as soon as it saw the radio attached.

Personally I prefer to buy from RS and Farnell, even Canford! But then
I'm not normally paying the bill.





--
Bill