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Default Concealed door

I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have
the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the
dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone
fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ?

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Default Concealed door

In article .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

wrote:

I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have
the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the
dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone
fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ?


As it isn't a security issue (in fact it isn't a safety issue either is
it?) you can just use a roller catch. But how are you going to pull the
door closed without an handle? A closed will have to be set just right
to stop it pushing past the catch without the frame having a rebate.

Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick?

A door needs to have some sort of a leading edge (planed off the side
opposite the hinges.) One way around reducing the gap -which is going
to show on the bedroom side of the door, is to turn the leg of the
frame slightly to meet the door when it is closed.

That will take some fiddling with to get it right.

I have seen a door rebated so that the non-concealed side is larger than
the concealed side and hence can close against the similarly rebated
frame.

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John Alexander,

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Default Concealed door


John wrote:
In article .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

wrote:

I am trying to create a concealed door into my dressing room. We have
the fire door and hinges and we want the door to swing into the
dressing room. What do we use to click the door shut ? Has anyone
fitted a concealed door b4 would welcome some advice ?


As it isn't a security issue (in fact it isn't a safety issue either is
it?) you can just use a roller catch. But how are you going to pull the
door closed without an handle? A closed will have to be set just right
to stop it pushing past the catch without the frame having a rebate.

Or have I got hold of the wrong end of the stick?

A door needs to have some sort of a leading edge (planed off the side
opposite the hinges.) One way around reducing the gap -which is going
to show on the bedroom side of the door, is to turn the leg of the
frame slightly to meet the door when it is closed.

That will take some fiddling with to get it right.

I have seen a door rebated so that the non-concealed side is larger than
the concealed side and hence can close against the similarly rebated
frame.


I never thought of that bt you are still left with the gap needed for
clearance. If the leading edge corner of the door will just clear the
frame by the thickness of a coat of paint, it will be about 2 mm from
the frame when fully shut.

That is because the measurement at the first position is a diagonal
through the door from the hinge to that leading edge. When fully closed
it is just the width of the door.

A difference in measurement which is the square root of the sum of the
square of the thickness of the door and the square of the width.

As for a stop or rebate, it would be no problem to screw or glue a
strip onto the back of the door.

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