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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
One of my Ryobi 14.4 packs is dying. It has 12 NiCad sub-Cs spot welded. Any
tips, hints, warnings for replacing with tagged cells? This pack has a third wire coming off a chip / temperature sensor? on the first cell. |
#2
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
In article ,
Newshound wrote: One of my Ryobi 14.4 packs is dying. It has 12 NiCad sub-Cs spot welded. Any tips, hints, warnings for replacing with tagged cells? This pack has a third wire coming off a chip / temperature sensor? on the first cell. If you were happy with the original (Ryobi seem to make decent and budget stuff) I'd first price up a replacement. It's often cheaper than re-celling. Of course if it was a poor battery to start with, decent cells will transform the performance of the drill. Found that out with a PPPro one. No gotchas with using tagged cells - just make the joint as quickly as possible with a hot clean iron. The temp sensor is usually just glued or taped in position - put it in the same place on the replacement. -- *I started out with nothing, and I still have most of it* Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#3
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
Newshound wrote:
One of my Ryobi 14.4 packs is dying. It has 12 NiCad sub-Cs spot welded. Any tips, hints, warnings for replacing with tagged cells? This pack has a third wire coming off a chip / temperature sensor? on the first cell. If you've got a meter you will probably find just one or two of the cells have gone s/c. Did a complete rebuild job on a hitachi battery pack and was fine for light drilling work but as soon as you started to apply more of a load the soldered battery connections melted! Remade the connections twice (I'm an electronic eng. so I know how to solder before anybody throws that in) then threw the battery pack in the bin! - would have been a good repair if I could have got them welded somehow. |
#4
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
In article .com,
wrote: Did a complete rebuild job on a hitachi battery pack and was fine for light drilling work but as soon as you started to apply more of a load the soldered battery connections melted! Remade the connections twice (I'm an electronic eng. so I know how to solder before anybody throws that in) Err... then threw the battery pack in the bin! - would have been a good repair if I could have got them welded somehow. They are welded to prevent heat build up to the cell which may occur while soldering, and damage the cell. A properly made overlapping solder joint will happily carry more current than the tags themselves. I've done hundreds without problems. -- *Why are a wise man and a wise guy opposites? * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
#5
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
They are welded to prevent heat build up to the cell which may occur while soldering, and damage the cell. A properly made overlapping solder joint will happily carry more current than the tags themselves. I've done hundreds without problems. Indeed - there is no way those tags are meant to reach 160C + in normal operation. Something was definitely wrong there, to cause the soldered joints to melt. -- Grunff |
#6
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Replacing cordless drill batteries
"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:
In article .com, wrote: Did a complete rebuild job on a hitachi battery pack and was fine for light drilling work but as soon as you started to apply more of a load the soldered battery connections melted! Remade the connections twice (I'm an electronic eng. so I know how to solder before anybody throws that in) Err... then threw the battery pack in the bin! - would have been a good repair if I could have got them welded somehow. They are welded to prevent heat build up to the cell which may occur while soldering, and damage the cell. I keep meaning to actually make a little mock-up of a cell (strong salt solution on the inside of a thin steel plate, with a thermocouple on it) to find out exactly how hot they get when using my preferred technique. (basically clean very thouroughly, tin (0.5s) then attach a wire (0.5s)) The place where the wire is can be touched in under 2 seconds easily. (I've posted a much more detailed explanation several times in the past) |
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