I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8 -
16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What is
the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

pm wrote:
I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8 -
16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What is
the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to carving
out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of wood to the
studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re skimming, sanding and
painting.

"pm" wrote in message
...
I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length.

Yes, your correct !.

But what is the "8 -
16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

No, 8-16mm is the range of thicknesses of wall that the anchor can be used
with

The diameter of hole required in the wall is 8mm.

(I used these anchors recently)



Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm?

I think so !.

What is
the 'S'?

No idea !.

Thanks

Pete

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
pm wrote:
I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that
come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber
noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for
the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8
- 16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What
is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to carving
out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of wood to the
studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re skimming, sanding and
painting.

I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get a
nice clean hole the right size.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22882&id=58219

Stuart Noble wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:
pm wrote:
I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that
come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber
noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for
the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8
- 16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What
is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to
carving out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of
wood to the studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re skimming,
sanding and painting.

I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get a
nice clean hole the right size.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22882&id=58219

Odd. I have found them almost totally useless.

Certainly not for a towel rad which dogs bang into and small children
regard as a climbing frame.

Think what would happen if it pulls off the wall and springs a leak..

Stuart Noble wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

pm wrote:

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that
come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber
noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for
the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8
- 16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What
is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete


I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to
carving out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of
wood to the studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re skimming,
sanding and painting.


I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get a
nice clean hole the right size.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22882&id=58219

I looked at them, the metal ones look like they spread the load more.

pm wrote:
Stuart Noble wrote:
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

pm wrote:

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that
come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber
noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for
the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow
wall anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the
"8 - 16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put
in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What
is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete


I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to
carving out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of
wood to the studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re
skimming, sanding and painting.


I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get
a nice clean hole the right size.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22882&id=58219

I looked at them, the metal ones look like they spread the load more.

The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard. Or
in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard, and
the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small diameter
in plasterboard can take much weight.

On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 12:13:05 +0100, pm
wrote:

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8 -
16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What is
the 'S'?

I like this type:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...27047&id=17481

They don't look awfully strong, but are very effective.

--
Frank Erskine

pm wrote:
I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the "8 -
16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm? What is
the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete

I tried fixing a towel rail to a plasterboard wall, it was hopeless. Put
wooden noggins in or move it to a solid wall.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
pm wrote:

Stuart Noble wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

pm wrote:

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that
come with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber
noggings in which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for
the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking
at plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow
wall anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length. But what is the
"8 - 16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to
put in?

Also this fitting
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=33559
"Metal plasterboard anchor 5x37S" - what is 5x37S - 5mm x 37mm?
What is the 'S'?

Thanks

Pete



I would say that your only safe option is to take a strip of
plasterboard off and PUT in noggins.

Unless you have tiled the wall, in which case ordinary screws and
rawlplugs will just be adequate.

As a long term dweller in stud work houses, you get very used to
carving out a chunk of board with a Stanley knife, inserting bits of
wood to the studs, and sticking the plasterboard back and re
skimming, sanding and painting.



I've always found this sort of thing quite adequate providing you get
a nice clean hole the right size.
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...22882&id=58219



I looked at them, the metal ones look like they spread the load more.


The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard. Or
in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard, and
the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small diameter
in plasterboard can take much weight.


The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be
coming off and the whole lot tiled.
I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow wall
(only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the studs are
right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the plasterboard
fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might give them a go.
If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"

woodglass wrote:
"pm" wrote in message
...

I want to fit a towel rad to a plasterboard wall. The fixings that come
with the rad aren't for plasterboard unless fixed to timber noggings in
which case the instructions say to drill a 4mm hole for the screws.

Naturally there are no noggings where I need them so I am looking at
plasterboard fixings like these
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?&id=12229

But I'm not sure what the 'spec' is - the description is "Hollow wall
anchor 5 x 52mm 8-16mm"
I take it the 5x52mm means 5mm screw, 52mm length.


Yes, your correct !.

But what is the "8 -

16mm"? Is this the size of the hole in the fixing I want to put in?


No, 8-16mm is the range of thicknesses of wall that the anchor can be used
with

The diameter of hole required in the wall is 8mm.

(I used these anchors recently)


Thanks Woodglass

Frank Erskine wrote:

I like this type:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...27047&id=17481

They don't look awfully strong, but are very effective.

I prefer the metal version
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...42398&id=11595


--
Dave
The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
01634 717930
07850 597257

On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:33:48 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
wrote:

Frank Erskine wrote:

I like this type:-

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...27047&id=17481

They don't look awfully strong, but are very effective.

I prefer the metal version
http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...42398&id=11595

Actually that's the type I meant, but couldn't find them when glancing
at the Screwfix site :-)

--
Frank Erskine

On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:15:10 +0100, pm
wrote:

The Natural Philosopher wrote:

The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard. Or
in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard, and
the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small diameter
in plasterboard can take much weight.


The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be
coming off and the whole lot tiled.
I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow wall
(only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the studs are
right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the plasterboard
fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might give them a go.
If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"

Like a door most of the weight is taken at the top so at least put in
a noggin there where you now have access. You'll get away with the
other fittings mentioned lower down.

If it falls off the wall you get a leak and maybe flood the place.

marvelus wrote:
On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:15:10 +0100, pm
wrote:


The Natural Philosopher wrote:


The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard. Or
in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard, and
the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small diameter
in plasterboard can take much weight.


The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be
coming off and the whole lot tiled.
I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow wall
(only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the studs are
right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the plasterboard
fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might give them a go.
If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"


Like a door most of the weight is taken at the top so at least put in
a noggin there where you now have access. You'll get away with the
other fittings mentioned lower down.

If it falls off the wall you get a leak and maybe flood the place.


OK, I've thought about the responses and after getting some hollow wall
anchors and looking at their use I am now considering putting a nogging
in as I am not comfortable with the wall anchors.

I've not put in noggings before so I would appreciate some advice.

The wall is 90cm wide, one end is 10cm masonry (I think - it is the edge
of where a door used to be. All the original internal walls are
masonry). 80cm is plasterboard. The other end is the architrave for the
door.

I can't locate any studs by tapping, it all sounds the same to me except
where the masonry is and perhaps 1" from the architrave. So assuming I
have to cut out the whole width of the PB, what is the best technique?
Drill through then use a wood saw/pad saw/jigsaw? The plasterboard is
quite thick, about an inch (could be 2 x 12.5mm boards?)

How wide should the nogging be? How is the nogging fixed to the studs -
nail or screw in at an angle?

Once the nogging is in, do I just plaster over after priming the wood or
should I put the cut-out plasterboard back and fill the gaps?


Some of the answers will no doubt be findable with Google but if anyone
has quick answers to these Q's it would be welcome. Also any
tips/tricks/techniques would be handy

Thanks
Pete

pm wrote:
marvelus wrote:
On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:15:10 +0100, pm
wrote:


The Natural Philosopher wrote:


The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the plasterboard.
Or in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard,
and the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small
diameter in plasterboard can take much weight.


The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be
coming off and the whole lot tiled.
I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow
wall (only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the
studs are right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the
plasterboard fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might
give them a go. If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"


Like a door most of the weight is taken at the top so at least put in
a noggin there where you now have access. You'll get away with the
other fittings mentioned lower down.

If it falls off the wall you get a leak and maybe flood the place.


OK, I've thought about the responses and after getting some hollow wall
anchors and looking at their use I am now considering putting a nogging
in as I am not comfortable with the wall anchors.

I've not put in noggings before so I would appreciate some advice.

The wall is 90cm wide, one end is 10cm masonry (I think - it is the edge
of where a door used to be. All the original internal walls are
masonry). 80cm is plasterboard. The other end is the architrave for the
door.

I can't locate any studs by tapping, it all sounds the same to me except
where the masonry is and perhaps 1" from the architrave. So assuming I
have to cut out the whole width of the PB, what is the best technique?
Drill through then use a wood saw/pad saw/jigsaw? The plasterboard is
quite thick, about an inch (could be 2 x 12.5mm boards?)


Best I found was a small seratted edge kitchen knofe - 'kitchen devil' IIRC

How wide should the nogging be? How is the nogging fixed to the studs -
nail or screw in at an angle?


It really depends on how string you want it.

I like to cut a ply or MDF strip and attach to stubs of 1 1/2 x 1
battens screwed into the studs. Nailing on a skimmed wall usuallly
'starts' the nail- or screw- heads that were used to attach the plasterboard


Others simply nail diagonally into the studs, but I think if you can get
a drill or screwdriver into the gaps between the studs, using battens as
supports is better.


Once the nogging is in, do I just plaster over after priming the wood or
should I put the cut-out plasterboard back and fill the gaps?


Put the plasterboard back but make it a little below the rest. That
gives you an easy set of edges to skim to. I generally try and set the
mounting plate/noggin back by about 2-3mm.



Some of the answers will no doubt be findable with Google but if anyone
has quick answers to these Q's it would be welcome. Also any
tips/tricks/techniques would be handy

Thanks
Pete

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
pm wrote:

marvelus wrote:

On Sat, 07 Oct 2006 17:15:10 +0100, pm
wrote:


The Natural Philosopher wrote:



The real issue is the circumference of the hole in the
plasterboard. Or in fact the one side of it that takes the weight

This usually exceeds the compression strength of the plasterboard,
and the hole gradually enlarges as a result.

Tiling over locally increases the strength as the tile does the
supporting, and the tile spreads the load to the board via the tile
cement.. That works, as also does gluing a slab of wood OVER the
plasterboard. But no fixing that relies on a cylinder of small
diameter in plasterboard can take much weight.


The area is half tiled (the bottom half) and next year this will be
coming off and the whole lot tiled.
I can't locate any studs at all by tapping. It is a fairly narrow
wall (only just wide enough for a 600mm towel rail) so perhaps the
studs are right at the ends.

Opinion seems to be divided about the effectiveness of the
plasterboard fittings. Seeing as it will be tiled next year I might
give them a go. If it goes T/U you can say "I told you so!"



Like a door most of the weight is taken at the top so at least put in
a noggin there where you now have access. You'll get away with the
other fittings mentioned lower down.

If it falls off the wall you get a leak and maybe flood the place.



OK, I've thought about the responses and after getting some hollow
wall anchors and looking at their use I am now considering putting a
nogging in as I am not comfortable with the wall anchors.

I've not put in noggings before so I would appreciate some advice.

The wall is 90cm wide, one end is 10cm masonry (I think - it is the
edge of where a door used to be. All the original internal walls are
masonry). 80cm is plasterboard. The other end is the architrave for
the door.

I can't locate any studs by tapping, it all sounds the same to me
except where the masonry is and perhaps 1" from the architrave. So
assuming I have to cut out the whole width of the PB, what is the best
technique? Drill through then use a wood saw/pad saw/jigsaw? The
plasterboard is quite thick, about an inch (could be 2 x 12.5mm boards?)


Best I found was a small seratted edge kitchen knofe - 'kitchen devil' IIRC

How wide should the nogging be? How is the nogging fixed to the studs
- nail or screw in at an angle?


It really depends on how string you want it.

I like to cut a ply or MDF strip and attach to stubs of 1 1/2 x 1
battens screwed into the studs. Nailing on a skimmed wall usuallly
'starts' the nail- or screw- heads that were used to attach the
plasterboard


Others simply nail diagonally into the studs, but I think if you can get
a drill or screwdriver into the gaps between the studs, using battens as
supports is better.


Once the nogging is in, do I just plaster over after priming the wood
or should I put the cut-out plasterboard back and fill the gaps?


Put the plasterboard back but make it a little below the rest. That
gives you an easy set of edges to skim to. I generally try and set the
mounting plate/noggin back by about 2-3mm.

Done as you suggested and so far (cutting + battens + some 18mm planed
wood I had spare) has gone like a dream. Excellent tip about setting
back a couple of mm.

Last Q:
When putting the plasterboard back against the wood noggin is it best to
screw, nail or Gripfill? There are 2 sheets of plasterboard back-to-back
and they are not joined together, if this makes a difference.

Thanks again

Pete