My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

Butyl rubber tape (almost like a putty on a roll, but doesn't set),
from the glazier.

robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

screwfix do a crystal clear glazing silicone, i used it in the panes
above the upstairs doors

robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing compound if
it's not going to be overpainted:
http://www.hodgson-sealants.co.uk/pr...ds.php#Butyl66

Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess and
eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.

In article , Phil L
writes
robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing compound if
it's not going to be overpainted:
http://www.hodgson-sealants.co.uk/pr...putty_glazing-
compounds.php#Butyl66

Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess and
eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.

Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)

As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with water
****ing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would recommend a
cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly, silicone is an evil
substance for getting where it is not intended but sealing of multi-paned
windows & doors is (IMO) one of the acceptable uses.

If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of taping
the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of silicone and fitting
of glazing beads before it sets.
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla

fred wrote:
In article , Phil L
writes
robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than
one large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be
supplying the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the
door. Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and
crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing
compound if it's not going to be overpainted:
http://www.hodgson-sealants.co.uk/pr...putty_glazing-
compounds.php#Butyl66

Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess
and eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.

Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)

As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with
water ****ing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would
recommend a cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly,
silicone is an evil substance for getting where it is not intended
but sealing of multi-paned windows & doors is (IMO) one of the
acceptable uses.

If done properly and with great care, it is a good glazing sealant, the
trouble is, it's w-a-y too easy to make a balls up with it - I've seen
'professionals' do it wrong....they all try to do the same thing - avoid
having it ooze out upwards where the glass meets the rebate or the beadings,
presumably because they don't want to cut it/clean it off the glass
afterwards, end result is that it's left below the timber line and a gap is
present, usually internally *and* externally which holds the rainwater *and*
condensation!!


If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of
taping the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of
silicone and fitting of glazing beads before it sets.

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

In article , Phil L
writes
fred wrote:
In article , Phil L

Putty is about the best you can use, or a non setting glazing
compound if it's not going to be overpainted:
http://www.hodgson-sealants.co.uk/pr...putty_glazing-
compounds.php#Butyl66

Don't be tempted to use silicone - it holds the water in the recess
and eventaully rots the timber...cue the uproar.

Uproar :-! (was tempted to use caps but thankfully refrained)

As a contrast, I've seen too many of such installations fail with
water ****ing in past the panes (or through the joints) so would
recommend a cautious back fill or total fill with silicone. Truly,
silicone is an evil substance for getting where it is not intended
but sealing of multi-paned windows & doors is (IMO) one of the
acceptable uses.

If done properly and with great care, it is a good glazing sealant, the
trouble is, it's w-a-y too easy to make a balls up with it - I've seen
'professionals' do it wrong....they all try to do the same thing - avoid
having it ooze out upwards where the glass meets the rebate or the beadings,
presumably because they don't want to cut it/clean it off the glass
afterwards, end result is that it's left below the timber line and a gap is
present, usually internally *and* externally which holds the rainwater *and*
condensation!!

Totally agree, potentially good if done properly, evil when (frequently)
misused.

If the door is intended to be semi-secure I'd follow dom's advice of
taping the glass in (6.4mm laminated) followed by a back fill of
silicone and fitting of glazing beads before it sets.

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), I use
double sided foam 'security' tape to protect vulnerable sites then back-fill
with silicone as I said, what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it
on a roll at all or is it in a tub?
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla

robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

My wood doors have a wooden beading lined with putty. Butyl as it
happens. Not much is needed.

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), ...
what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it
on a roll at all or is it in a tub?

I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or
compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively
(50ish windows).

Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths
(e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is
separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to
length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.

Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get
exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for
the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight
butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of
small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length
strips to apply.

When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you
know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on
blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like
anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc.
Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully
that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.

The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be
identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.

In article . com,
writes

Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), ...
what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it
on a roll at all or is it in a tub?

I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or
compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively
(50ish windows).

Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths
(e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is
separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to
length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.

Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get
exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for
the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight
butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of
small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length
strips to apply.

When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you
know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on
blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like
anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc.
Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully
that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.

The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be
identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.

Yes, that's the stuff I meant and use, same technique.
--
fred
Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla

fred wrote:
In article . com,
writes
Butyl rubber glazing compound is expensive but it works, it never completely
sets or cracks, and is easy to cut, remove/clean up etc afterwards.....it
has all the workability of putty but none of the disadvantages.

Speaking from ignorance, is this like putty on a roll (but better), ...
what's the score with this stuff? On reflection, is it
on a roll at all or is it in a tub?
I think we're all talking about Butyl 66 glazing tape (on a roll) or
compound (in a tub). I've only used tape, but I've used it extensively
(50ish windows).

Comes in at least 2 thicknesses (e.g. 3mm), comes in several widths
(e.g. 10mm) and several colours (black, brown, white). On a roll, it is
separated by waxed paper, so you simply unroll and cut a piece to
length and press it into place, or unroll directly into place.

Choose a width that matches the glazing rebate on your frame, get
exactly the right one and accurate placement is easy. You're aiming for
the tape to very slightly overhang the reabte. You need good, tight
butt joins between the strips around the window frame too. With lots of
small similar windows, it's easier to prepare lots of accurate-length
strips to apply.

When you're ready, strip off the waxed tape and apply the glass (you
know about the glass being cut slightly undesize and raised slightly on
blocks don't you?). The butyl rubber will pick up dust and grit like
anything, so make sure the rebate was clean, the glass was clean etc.
Press the glass very firmly into the rebate and check very carefully
that it has sealed all round, with no non-contact pockets.

The only diy shed I've seen selling tape is Wickes, and it looked to be
identical to what I've bought from 2 different glaziers.

Yes, that's the stuff I meant and use, same technique.

For beaded windows you can use any "general purpose sealant". Apply from
cartridge on both sides of the glass. Water based so easy to wipe off
any excess.
Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in time.

On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:10:07 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in time.

Cool, I'll have to get some linseed putty because at present my glass
rattles out of time and it's like really annoying like white people
clapping.

Steve Firth wrote:
On Wed, 20 Sep 2006 13:10:07 GMT, Stuart Noble wrote:

Linseed putty will almost certainly cause the glass to rattle in
time.

Cool, I'll have to get some linseed putty because at present my glass
rattles out of time and it's like really annoying like white people
clapping.

Lol!!!

:-p

robgraham wrote:
My daughter has asked me to glaze an external hardwood door she is
having made for her. It's a small pane configuration rather than one
large sheet of glass. I understand that the joiner will be supplying
the beads and the glass will come from the local glazier.

What do I bed the glass into ? I would have thought that something
flexible should be used to account for the slight flexing of the door.
Putty I would have thought would in due course set hard and crack.

Thanks in advance

Rob

Thanks guys for your inputs - apparantly putty is mentioned in the
quote, but not which sort so that will have to be sorted !
Particularly appreciate the detailed instructions on fitting.

Rob