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Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


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Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


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"." wrote in message
...
Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be proud of
the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess water will just
run around it.

Alistair


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Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Ali Mac wrote:
"." wrote in message
...
Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be
proud of the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess
water will just run around it.


correct. still a temporary fix though, the valley will need replacing.

1/ make a lead patch about 1" bigger all round than the hole.

2/ apply a generous bead of leadmate to the radius of the patch.

3/ apply patch, run wet finger round the leadmate to smooth off

I prefer to use latex gloves when using leadmate as it really does
stick anything to anything.

hth


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Default Does flash banding stick to lead


"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure

I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on

the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic.

So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is

there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester

Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will
seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge
over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger.

Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or
tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all the
way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same
width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping
150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper nail
each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the
slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the out.
this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead
should be used.




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"keith_765" wrote in message
...

"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure

I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on

the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic.

So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is

there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester

Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will
seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge
over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger.

Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or
tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all
the
way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same
width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping
150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper
nail
each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the
slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the
out.
this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead
should be used.



Thanks all for great advice. I'll lead patch just because I've got lead and
leadmate and it sounds more solid, and then tackle the insert next summer.

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.

Alistair



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Default Does flash banding stick to lead


Ali Mac wrote:

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.


Way too soon?

Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send
it over the edge.

What your problem was, is not what your problem is now.

The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails
holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And
the weather doesn't seem to want to clear.

Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera,
then report back.

Have fun.

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In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

Ali Mac wrote:

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.


Way too soon?

Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send
it over the edge.

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain

--
geoff
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raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

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In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

"Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night."

hth

--
geoff


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CUT
As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way

down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about

1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go

wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.

Alistair

A 3m run of Lead is far to long. The max run of Valley Lead should be no
longer than 1.5m. Im suprised that the roof covering on a 15 year old house
is Slate. Are you sure that it is Slate, by slate I mean natural slate and
not man made cement fibre slate or any of the poly cement type.

Unless youve seen how a slated valley is carried out, youve got a very
specailised job on. One nail in the wrong place can cause water ingress.
I would be very interested in knowing what type of slate is on the roof
before I give any ferther advice, as a professional.

Lead should never be nail down its entire length. Nails should be 25mm or 1"
copper, 2" or 50mm apart 2 rows across the top and one side one third of
the length (500mm or 20") at 150mm or 6" spaced. Lead should be Code 4 or
5. Its best to cut to length and formed into a V on a bench before fixing.


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A 3m run of Lead is far to long. The max run of Valley Lead should be no
longer than 1.5m. Im suprised that the roof covering on a 15 year old
house
is Slate. Are you sure that it is Slate, by slate I mean natural slate and
not man made cement fibre slate or any of the poly cement type.


Sorry, I was not clear. I meant the roof had been re-laid 15 years ago. The
house is late victorian brick terrace.

Alistair


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What your problem was, is not what your problem is now.

The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails
holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And
the weather doesn't seem to want to clear.

Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera,
then report back.

Have fun.

Boards damp but not rotten. Well ventilated attic so I'm hoping no rot will
set in once the leak is fixed. I suppose it's probable that the valley has
been leaking for some time and has only now become serious. Boarded attic
floor is damp but I'm sure will dry out. Main effect below is damp wall
below valley with wallpaper starting to bubble. I'm sure all that will dry
out fine.

The main concern is the valley, and as you say, the boards and nailing. I
just don't have time or money to start re-laying the valley now, so I just
have to hope that fixing the split will stop the water ingress, and then
will have to tackle the wider problem in due course.

As a side note, one small positive for me is that all my DIY efforts over
the years have involved building in a way for me to get access to whatever
it is, and in this case the roof is one thing I can easily get on to through
a velux from the attic. Bit windy today so for once I am going out roped up.
After my coffee break, of course.

Alistair


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SNIP valley lead tear problem

I had similar problems (after about 10 years) on an extension where they
had
laid a continuous 4 metre run in code 3 lead, nailed all down both sides.
I
replaced it with 1.5 metre sections of code 4 lead, top fixed, which has
now
lasted much longer than the original.

The other side of the house (north) took longer to fail, as beside getting
less sun, it had been joined to let the stench pipe through, and was thus
a
shorter run.

I wish I'd kept a better eye on the builder. I couldn't chase him as he'd
gone into receivership several years earlier.

--

B Thumbs

It's just infuriating. Assuming all the other work they did was OK, then
that one thing, which would have been a tiny amount of extra work at the
time, meant you had to spend time and money fixing something which should
have lasted for years longer. If it had been me, and I had been keeping my
eye on the builder, I wouldn't even have known to question it. You just
expect people to do a good job.

Alistair


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raden wrote:
In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

"Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night."


Bloody hell, did you not know that lead pours down hill at the
temperatures experienced on British roofs?

Why do you suppose that the more wealthy owners had copper on their
roofs rather than lead? What did you suppose to be the reason that the
optimum lengths of lead sheathing mentioned somewhere above, was
specified for?

Ease of handling?



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In message . com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:
In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain

Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

"Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night."


Bloody hell, did you not know that lead pours down hill at the
temperatures experienced on British roofs?


Mine doesn't appear to have flowed in 100 years



Why do you suppose that the more wealthy owners had copper on their
roofs rather than lead? What did you suppose to be the reason that the
optimum lengths of lead sheathing mentioned somewhere above, was
specified for?

Ease of handling?


--
geoff
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On Sat, 02 Sep 2006 23:09:03 GMT, raden wrote:

In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

"Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night."


Surely it's obvious. It expands and contracts ok for years and then
one day it mysteriously work hardens during the day, and then when it
shrinks at night cracks appear Either that or the pikeys have been
round with an axe.


--
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