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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions.

Does flash banding stick to lead



 
 
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  #1  
Old September 2nd 06, 10:56 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 8
Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


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  #2  
Old September 2nd 06, 11:21 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 80
Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


  #3  
Old September 2nd 06, 11:48 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 8
Default Does flash banding stick to lead


"." wrote in message
...
Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be proud of
the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess water will just
run around it.

Alistair


  #4  
Old September 2nd 06, 02:31 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
.
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Posts: 80
Default Does flash banding stick to lead

Ali Mac wrote:
"." wrote in message
...
Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty
sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the
final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant
roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux
does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick
a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few
weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better
solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester


a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time.


Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be
proud of the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess
water will just run around it.


correct. still a temporary fix though, the valley will need replacing.

1/ make a lead patch about 1" bigger all round than the hole.

2/ apply a generous bead of leadmate to the radius of the patch.

3/ apply patch, run wet finger round the leadmate to smooth off

I prefer to use latex gloves when using leadmate as it really does
stick anything to anything.

hth


  #5  
Old September 2nd 06, 03:35 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 119
Default Does flash banding stick to lead


"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure

I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on

the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic.

So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is

there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester

Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will
seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge
over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger.

Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or
tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all the
way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same
width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping
150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper nail
each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the
slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the out.
this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead
should be used.


  #6  
Old September 2nd 06, 08:40 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 8
Default Does flash banding stick to lead


"keith_765" wrote in message
...

"Ali Mac" wrote in message
...
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure

I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I
think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on

the
end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic.

So
on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley
will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is

there
some better solution that someone could suggest?

Alistair in very rainy Manchester

Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will
seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge
over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger.

Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or
tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all
the
way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same
width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping
150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper
nail
each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the
slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the
out.
this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead
should be used.



Thanks all for great advice. I'll lead patch just because I've got lead and
leadmate and it sounds more solid, and then tackle the insert next summer.

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.

Alistair



  #7  
Old September 2nd 06, 09:45 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 839
Default Does flash banding stick to lead


Ali Mac wrote:

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.


Way too soon?

Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send
it over the edge.

What your problem was, is not what your problem is now.

The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails
holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And
the weather doesn't seem to want to clear.

Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera,
then report back.

Have fun.

  #8  
Old September 2nd 06, 11:34 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 2,466
Default Does flash banding stick to lead

In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

Ali Mac wrote:

As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down
a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m
being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the
same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong.
Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing
etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon.


Way too soon?

Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send
it over the edge.

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain

--
geoff
  #9  
Old September 2nd 06, 11:40 PM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 839
Default Does flash banding stick to lead


raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

  #10  
Old September 3rd 06, 12:09 AM posted to uk.d-i-y
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Posts: 2,466
Default Does flash banding stick to lead

In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes

raden wrote:

Do you work on Drivel physics or what ?

please explain


Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about
and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you.

"Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder
metals do) at night."

hth

--
geoff
 




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