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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Does flash banding stick to lead
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've
found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester |
#2
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Does flash banding stick to lead
Ali Mac wrote:
Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time. |
#3
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Does flash banding stick to lead
"." wrote in message ... Ali Mac wrote: Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time. Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be proud of the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess water will just run around it. Alistair |
#4
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Does flash banding stick to lead
Ali Mac wrote:
"." wrote in message ... Ali Mac wrote: Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester a lead patch adhered with leadmate will last a /very/ long time. Really. That would be great, but doesn't it matter that it will be proud of the existing surface, albeit only a lead thickness? I guess water will just run around it. correct. still a temporary fix though, the valley will need replacing. 1/ make a lead patch about 1" bigger all round than the hole. 2/ apply a generous bead of leadmate to the radius of the patch. 3/ apply patch, run wet finger round the leadmate to smooth off I prefer to use latex gloves when using leadmate as it really does stick anything to anything. hth |
#5
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Does flash banding stick to lead
"Ali Mac" wrote in message ... Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger. Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all the way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping 150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper nail each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the out. this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead should be used. |
#6
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Does flash banding stick to lead
"keith_765" wrote in message ... "Ali Mac" wrote in message ... Got a leak in my valley (or should that be leek?). And I'm pretty sure I've found the cause -a small 10 cm horizontal tear across the final sheet. I think it's the cause because some silicon sealant roughly squished in on the end of a stick leaning out of my velux does reduce the drip in the attic. So on the next dry day if I stick a length of flash banding down the valley will this stick for a few weeks so that I can plan my next move? Or is there some better solution that someone could suggest? Alistair in very rainy Manchester Flashband will stick provided that you use a primer first. Leadmate will seal the split on its own, just spread on 25mm each side and build a ridge over the split. smooth the edges with a wet finger. Here's the correct way. If you can get on the roof, remove the slates or tiles on both sides of the valley where the split is. Cut the split all the way across, lift up the top piece of lead and insert a new piece the same width across. pushing the new piece about 150mm or 6" up under and lapping 150mm or 6" down over the lower half. Nail the new piece with 2 copper nail each side at the top, fold down the old lead and dress flat, replace the slates or tiles. Best if you number the slates or tiles as you take the out. this will make it easier to replace in the correct order. Code 4 lead should be used. Thanks all for great advice. I'll lead patch just because I've got lead and leadmate and it sounds more solid, and then tackle the insert next summer. As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong. Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon. Alistair |
#7
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Does flash banding stick to lead
Ali Mac wrote: As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong. Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon. Way too soon? Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send it over the edge. What your problem was, is not what your problem is now. The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And the weather doesn't seem to want to clear. Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera, then report back. Have fun. |
#8
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Does flash banding stick to lead
In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes Ali Mac wrote: As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong. Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon. Way too soon? Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night. We had some exceptional weather recently to send it over the edge. Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain -- geoff |
#9
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Does flash banding stick to lead
raden wrote: Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you. |
#10
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Does flash banding stick to lead
In message .com,
Weatherlawyer writes raden wrote: Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you. "Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night." hth -- geoff |
#11
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Does flash banding stick to lead
CUT As a matter of interest, the section of valley that split was half way down a continuous 3m run and I've been reading loads of posts recently about 1.5m being the optimum max length for flashing and so on. On the basis that the same is true for lead in a valley, there is an example on what can go wrong. Roof relaid about 15 years ago (slate, mortared ridge tiles, lead flashing etc) and is starting to need some TLC, which I think is way to soon. Alistair A 3m run of Lead is far to long. The max run of Valley Lead should be no longer than 1.5m. Im suprised that the roof covering on a 15 year old house is Slate. Are you sure that it is Slate, by slate I mean natural slate and not man made cement fibre slate or any of the poly cement type. Unless youve seen how a slated valley is carried out, youve got a very specailised job on. One nail in the wrong place can cause water ingress. I would be very interested in knowing what type of slate is on the roof before I give any ferther advice, as a professional. Lead should never be nail down its entire length. Nails should be 25mm or 1" copper, 2" or 50mm apart 2 rows across the top and one side one third of the length (500mm or 20") at 150mm or 6" spaced. Lead should be Code 4 or 5. Its best to cut to length and formed into a V on a bench before fixing. |
#12
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Does flash banding stick to lead
A 3m run of Lead is far to long. The max run of Valley Lead should be no
longer than 1.5m. Im suprised that the roof covering on a 15 year old house is Slate. Are you sure that it is Slate, by slate I mean natural slate and not man made cement fibre slate or any of the poly cement type. Sorry, I was not clear. I meant the roof had been re-laid 15 years ago. The house is late victorian brick terrace. Alistair |
#13
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Does flash banding stick to lead
What your problem was, is not what your problem is now. The water has affected the boards supporting the lead, the nails holding the board and the attic below before coming into the house. And the weather doesn't seem to want to clear. Get in there and take a couple of halogen lights with you and a camera, then report back. Have fun. Boards damp but not rotten. Well ventilated attic so I'm hoping no rot will set in once the leak is fixed. I suppose it's probable that the valley has been leaking for some time and has only now become serious. Boarded attic floor is damp but I'm sure will dry out. Main effect below is damp wall below valley with wallpaper starting to bubble. I'm sure all that will dry out fine. The main concern is the valley, and as you say, the boards and nailing. I just don't have time or money to start re-laying the valley now, so I just have to hope that fixing the split will stop the water ingress, and then will have to tackle the wider problem in due course. As a side note, one small positive for me is that all my DIY efforts over the years have involved building in a way for me to get access to whatever it is, and in this case the roof is one thing I can easily get on to through a velux from the attic. Bit windy today so for once I am going out roped up. After my coffee break, of course. Alistair |
#14
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Does flash banding stick to lead
SNIP valley lead tear problem
I had similar problems (after about 10 years) on an extension where they had laid a continuous 4 metre run in code 3 lead, nailed all down both sides. I replaced it with 1.5 metre sections of code 4 lead, top fixed, which has now lasted much longer than the original. The other side of the house (north) took longer to fail, as beside getting less sun, it had been joined to let the stench pipe through, and was thus a shorter run. I wish I'd kept a better eye on the builder. I couldn't chase him as he'd gone into receivership several years earlier. -- B Thumbs It's just infuriating. Assuming all the other work they did was OK, then that one thing, which would have been a tiny amount of extra work at the time, meant you had to spend time and money fixing something which should have lasted for years longer. If it had been me, and I had been keeping my eye on the builder, I wouldn't even have known to question it. You just expect people to do a good job. Alistair |
#15
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Does flash banding stick to lead
raden wrote: In message .com, Weatherlawyer writes raden wrote: Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you. "Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night." Bloody hell, did you not know that lead pours down hill at the temperatures experienced on British roofs? Why do you suppose that the more wealthy owners had copper on their roofs rather than lead? What did you suppose to be the reason that the optimum lengths of lead sheathing mentioned somewhere above, was specified for? Ease of handling? |
#16
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Does flash banding stick to lead
In message . com,
Weatherlawyer writes raden wrote: In message .com, Weatherlawyer writes raden wrote: Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you. "Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night." Bloody hell, did you not know that lead pours down hill at the temperatures experienced on British roofs? Mine doesn't appear to have flowed in 100 years Why do you suppose that the more wealthy owners had copper on their roofs rather than lead? What did you suppose to be the reason that the optimum lengths of lead sheathing mentioned somewhere above, was specified for? Ease of handling? -- geoff |
#17
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Does flash banding stick to lead
On Sat, 02 Sep 2006 23:09:03 GMT, raden wrote:
In message .com, Weatherlawyer writes raden wrote: Do you work on Drivel physics or what ? please explain Do you want to start first? Explain to me what that insult was about and then explain why I would want to put myself out for you. "Perhaps but lead stretches in the heat and does not contract (as harder metals do) at night." Surely it's obvious. It expands and contracts ok for years and then one day it mysteriously work hardens during the day, and then when it shrinks at night cracks appear Either that or the pikeys have been round with an axe. -- |
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