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UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
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#1
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
Dear All,
Not posted for a long while but still read the new threads most days. I have a problem...at the top of my indirect vented HW cylinder is the 22mm outlet pipe leading to the various HW taps in the house. The cylinder has a 1"BSP female thread in the copper with a brass insert to convert to a 22mm compression fitting. I would like to install a Surrey flange in this location and would like to remove the brass insert. But it doesnt want to be shifted without distorting the cylinder (already done this and fixed without splitting the cylinder). The cylinder was full of water for additional support during this attempt at removal. Is this a removable insert or is it part of the cylinder installed at manufacture and not designed to be removed? If it is removable any ideas on releasing the thread? Heat/plus gas etc? (The cylinder is coated in insulating foam if this is important). The Surrey flange has a 1"BSP male thread to install in the top of the cylinder and a female 1"BSP thread in the top of the flange to take the reinstalled insert from the cylinder. regards Ian L |
#2
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
On Wed, 21 Jun 2006 02:11:15 -0700, i.lewis2 wrote:
Is this a removable insert or is it part of the cylinder installed at manufacture and not designed to be removed? If it is removable any ideas on releasing the thread? Heat/plus gas etc? (The cylinder is coated in insulating foam if this is important). It's just stuck. I had one like that and decided that discretion is the better part of valour and left it be. If you want a shower flange use an essex instead. |
#3
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
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#5
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
John Rumm writes
wrote: I would like to install a Surrey flange in this location and would like Well assuming that walloping it does not work, you can get round it by making your own Surrey/Warix flange.... (ASCII art alert - switch to a monospaced font) | | | | || || || || / | | \ / | | \ || | | || || | | || | | | | | | | |_________ | | | | | | Tee, to taps | | | | | | _________ | | | | | | | | || | | || || | | || | | | | | | | | --- stub of 22mm pipe that used to feed taps | | | | ##| | | |## ##| | | |## ---- compression fitting on cylinder ##| | | |## ______##| | | |##________ | | ---- top of cylinder | | | | Water to taps still comes from top of cylinder | | | | | | | | | | | --- water for shower drawn from lower down \___ Nice one John, I've considered a similar setup with a (much) longer central pipe as a return for a DHW circulation pump. -- fred Plusnet - I hope you like vanilla |
#6
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 10:43:30 GMT, fred wrote:
Nice one John, I've considered a similar setup with a (much) longer central pipe as a return for a DHW circulation pump. Twas indeed. The only change I would make is instead of copper bashing to make a right angle I would solder a 90 end feed elbow to the end of the 15 mm tube but would cut off the unsoldered arm of the elbow. OTOH, every commerical Surrey flange I have seen doesn't have a right angle for water draw off. |
#7
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
"Steve Firth" wrote in message ... On Thu, 22 Jun 2006 10:43:30 GMT, fred wrote: Nice one John, I've considered a similar setup with a (much) longer central pipe as a return for a DHW circulation pump. Twas indeed. The only change I would make is instead of copper bashing to make a right angle I would solder a 90 end feed elbow to the end of the 15 mm tube but would cut off the unsoldered arm of the elbow. I would solder in a 15mm male cap at the end of the pipe. Then drill holes around the pipe. Then it takes in water from 360 degrees at the top of the cylinder. Much better. Ramming a fitting over a pipe is not good. Another way is to have a compression: 15mm top X 22mm centre X 22mm bottom tee. Or, depending on cylinder connection a compression: 15mm top X 22mm centre X 3/4" male or female bottom tee. Drill or file out the 15mm pipe stop in the compression tee. Now a 15mm pipe with an internal male solder cap in the end can be inserted. The olive slid down and the nut tightened. The tee just fits in the cylinder DHW draw-off. A blow torch will not be needed. |
#8
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
John Rumm wrote: wrote: You need a 22mm solder ring tee, and a 22mm male to 15mm female end feed fitting reducer. Thanks John, Great ascii art...I had seen this described on uk.diy some months ago but was worried about flow rate through the 22mm to the pipe as its internal cross section is reduced by the presence of the 15mm pipe to the shower. Has anyone tried this and obtained reasonable flow rates to the hot taps (eg bath)? Ian L |
#9
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
wrote in message oups.com... John Rumm wrote: wrote: You need a 22mm solder ring tee, and a 22mm male to 15mm female end feed fitting reducer. Thanks John, Great ascii art...I had seen this described on uk.diy some months ago but was worried about flow rate through the 22mm to the pipe as its internal cross section is reduced by the presence of the 15mm pipe to the shower. Has anyone tried this and obtained reasonable flow rates to the hot taps (eg bath)? Best read what I wrote, and use compression fittings, you don't force pipes past pipe stops on fittings. If the tapping on the top of the cylinder is 1" BSP, then a 1" BSP x 22mm x 22mm tee can be used. Then reduce to 15mm at the top of the tee (the shower take off). The tee off to the bath is then 22mm so full flow to baths. Using a 22mm tee and running a 15mm through it will obviously reduce flow. |
#10
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
wrote:
Great ascii art...I had seen this described on uk.diy some months ago but was worried about flow rate through the 22mm to the pipe as its internal cross section is reduced by the presence of the 15mm pipe to the shower. Well to an extent it will have to reduce the flow a bit, but by how much is going ot be hard to call. The situation is unlikely to be any better with a "real" Surrey flange unless you can find one that fits directly into the cylinder 1" connector without requiring any reduction boss. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#11
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: Best read what I wrote, and use compression fittings, you don't force Hmm, plumbing is not your thing is it No. Pipe and plumbing are not as one as your tiny mind thinks. This is sad. pipes past pipe stops on fittings. If the tapping on the top of the cylinder is 1" BSP, then a 1" BSP x 22mm x 22mm tee can be used. Then reduce to 15mm at the top of the tee (the shower take off). The tee off to the bath is then 22mm so full flow to baths. Using a 22mm tee and running a 15mm through it will obviously reduce flow. The minor points he neglects to mention a that while sliding an end feed fitting reducer down a length of 15mm pipe is very easy, It isn't. There is a pipe stop in the fitting. You are ramming a pipe past a stop. Onl;y cowboys do this. The pipe stop in the fitting should be filed or drilled out. doing something similar with a brass compression fitting will require that you drill out the pipe end stop. EXACTLY! As you should, drill it out. You may find the cost of the 15mm drill bit and a drill press a tad excessive Press? My God. As for the 1" BSP male to x 22mm compression fitting, good luck finding one of those! 1" BSP x 28mm with reducers. snip babbling drivel If anyone is making their own Surrey flange, justfollow what I wrote. DON'T ram pipes past pipe stops in end feed fittings. |
#12
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
Doctor Drivel wrote:
If anyone is making their own Surrey flange, justfollow what I wrote. Stick to flags. -- Cheers, John. /================================================== ===============\ | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------| | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \================================================= ================/ |
#13
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Removing HW Cylinder connector insert
"John Rumm" wrote in message ... Doctor Drivel wrote: If anyone is making their own Surrey flange, justfollow what I wrote. Chav, Flags. The American Confederate Stainless Banner. Lowered for the last time on 6th November 1865 at Liverpool, England many months after the Confederate surrender to Union forces, when CSS Shenandoah surrendered to HMS Donegal. The last act of the American Civil war was when Captain Wardell walked up the steps of Liverpool Town Hall and officially surrendered CSS Shenandoah in writing. Note the insert stars and bars and white background. http://ngeorgia.com/images/2ndnat.gif Flags. |
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