My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather turned
warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays on regardless
even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a Honeywell 7 day water
and heating model). Basically, the pump continues working and the boiler
fires up. The only way I can get things to stop is to turn the timer off at
the mains. I have disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be
the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

On Sat, 29 Apr 2006 21:17:50 +0100, "Mike Lane"
wrote:

My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather turned
warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays on regardless
even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a Honeywell 7 day water
and heating model). Basically, the pump continues working and the boiler
fires up. The only way I can get things to stop is to turn the timer off at
the mains. I have disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be
the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Look back to the 27th, post in capital letters. Same problem.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Lane wrote:

My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather
turned warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays
on regardless even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a
Honeywell 7 day water and heating model). Basically, the pump
continues working and the boiler fires up. The only way I can get
things to stop is to turn the timer off at the mains. I have
disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The most likely diagnosis is that you have a zone valve which is either
stuck open - even when turned off at the programmer - or the micro-switch,
which provides its auxilliary contacts, has failed shut. [I am assuming that
you have an S-Plan system, with separate 2-port valves for HW and CH rather
than a Y-Plan system with a single 3-port valve?]

Someone else reported a similar problem recently which turned out to be a
failed pump over-run stat on the boiler. I have to admit that I'm struggling
to understand how this would make the boiler fire - rather than just running
the pump continuously - but it's nevertheless something else to check.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Roger Mills wrote:

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Lane wrote:

My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather
turned warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays
on regardless even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a
Honeywell 7 day water and heating model). Basically, the pump
continues working and the boiler fires up. The only way I can get
things to stop is to turn the timer off at the mains. I have
disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The most likely diagnosis is that you have a zone valve which is either
stuck open - even when turned off at the programmer - or the micro-switch,
which provides its auxilliary contacts, has failed shut. [I am assuming
that you have an S-Plan system, with separate 2-port valves for HW and CH
rather than a Y-Plan system with a single 3-port valve?]

My Dad had a seized 2 port valve on the supply to the cylinder coil
recently - try fiddling with the manual override lever on the side, if you
do have such valves in your setup - it should be fairly clear if you can
actuate the valve or not. Best to turn the boiler electricity off at the
fuse in case the housing cover falls off (they do sometimes) and you stick
your fingers accidently into something live...

HTH

Tim

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Lane wrote:

My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather
turned warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays
on regardless even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a
Honeywell 7 day water and heating model). Basically, the pump
continues working and the boiler fires up. The only way I can get
things to stop is to turn the timer off at the mains. I have
disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The most likely diagnosis is that you have a zone valve which is either
stuck open - even when turned off at the programmer - or the micro-switch,
which provides its auxilliary contacts, has failed shut. [I am assuming that
you have an S-Plan system, with separate 2-port valves for HW and CH rather
than a Y-Plan system with a single 3-port valve?]

Someone else reported a similar problem recently which turned out to be a
failed pump over-run stat on the boiler. I have to admit that I'm struggling
to understand how this would make the boiler fire - rather than just running
the pump continuously - but it's nevertheless something else to check.

Possibly that's what the OP (Caps lock stuck) meant

he could just hear something asking a noise

ISTR he gave no indication as to what the boiler was, making it
difficult to know much more (e.g. it's a well known problem with the
baxi solo 2 pcb)

--
geoff

"raden" wrote in message
...
In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Lane wrote:

My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather
turned warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays
on regardless even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a
Honeywell 7 day water and heating model). Basically, the pump
continues working and the boiler fires up. The only way I can get
things to stop is to turn the timer off at the mains. I have
disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

The most likely diagnosis is that you have a zone valve which is either
stuck open - even when turned off at the programmer - or the micro-switch,
which provides its auxilliary contacts, has failed shut. [I am assuming
that
you have an S-Plan system, with separate 2-port valves for HW and CH
rather
than a Y-Plan system with a single 3-port valve?]

Someone else reported a similar problem recently which turned out to be a
failed pump over-run stat on the boiler. I have to admit that I'm
struggling
to understand how this would make the boiler fire - rather than just
running
the pump continuously - but it's nevertheless something else to check.

Possibly that's what the OP (Caps lock stuck) meant

he could just hear something asking a noise

ISTR he gave no indication as to what the boiler was, making it difficult
to know much more (e.g. it's a well known problem with the baxi solo 2
pcb)

--
geoff

Hi

Seems like the problem is a stiff Honeywell motorised valve on the heating
side. I took the cover off and forced down the mechanism. Now, the pump has
stopped and I get the resistance on the lever at the top. However, I think
that when the water comes on, the pump might reactivate again. But at least,
I can leave the programmer powered up without the pump coming on
automatically.
Is there a way of lubricating the valve or do I need to replace it? Thanks
to all of you who took the trouble to respond to my original post.

Mike

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Mike Lane wrote:


Hi

Seems like the problem is a stiff Honeywell motorised valve on the
heating side. I took the cover off and forced down the mechanism.
Now, the pump has stopped and I get the resistance on the lever at
the top. However, I think that when the water comes on, the pump
might reactivate again. But at least, I can leave the programmer
powered up without the pump coming on automatically.
Is there a way of lubricating the valve or do I need to replace it?
Thanks to all of you who took the trouble to respond to my original
post.
Mike

Not sure you can lubricate them, as such. But you can sometimes free them up
by turning them backwards and forwards a few times. With any luck you should
be able to remove the actuator from the 'wet' part of the valve, allowing
you to get at the shaft which is normally rotated by the actuator. You
should be able to turn the shaft by gripping it with fingers and thumb or,
at worst, by using only light pressure with pliers.

Try working it a bit to get it moving freely. If you can't, you'll have to
replace it. Remember that, when motor current is removed, there is only a
spring return to close the valve. If the valve is too stiff for the spring
to move, it will remain open - with the symptoms which you have experienced.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

Mike Lane wrote:
My system has started playing up. We noticed it when the weather turned
warmer, and we turned the heating off. But the heating stays on regardless
even if we also switch the water off at the timer (a Honeywell 7 day water
and heating model). Basically, the pump continues working and the boiler
fires up. The only way I can get things to stop is to turn the timer off at
the mains. I have disconnected the frost stat to no avail, so that can't be
the problem.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks


Motorised valve jammed.

Roger Mills wrote:
If the valve is too stiff for the spring
to move, it will remain open - with the symptoms which you have experienced.

That was my problem..gearbox went strange and the spring couldn't close
it. New motor and box fixed it.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
If the valve is too stiff for the spring
to move, it will remain open - with the symptoms which you have
experienced.

That was my problem..gearbox went strange and the spring couldn't
close it. New motor and box fixed it.

That's another possibility. What I was actually referring to was the
mechanical (wet) part of the valve being too stiff for the spring in the
actuator to move it.
--
Cheers,
Roger
______
Email address maintained for newsgroup use only, and not regularly
monitored.. Messages sent to it may not be read for several weeks.
PLEASE REPLY TO NEWSGROUP!

In message , Roger Mills
writes
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
The Natural Philosopher wrote:

Roger Mills wrote:
If the valve is too stiff for the spring
to move, it will remain open - with the symptoms which you have
experienced.

That was my problem..gearbox went strange and the spring couldn't
close it. New motor and box fixed it.

That's another possibility. What I was actually referring to was the
mechanical (wet) part of the valve being too stiff for the spring in the
actuator to move it.

As I said - yes, you can open it up, reseal and grease it, but, I think
you're better off replacing it , when you take into account the work
involved in doing the whole job


--
geoff