I have a solid oak floor (18mm thick, tongue & groove type) to fit, and
had intended to float it with an underlay between wood and concrete. I
was told at the weekend that it's not recommended to float this type of
floor - could someone tell me if this is true or not? And if not, what
would be recommended.

Thanks

Jon

On 30 Jan 2006 12:39:30 -0800, "JonG"
wrote:

I have a solid oak floor (18mm thick, tongue & groove type) to fit, and
had intended to float it with an underlay between wood and concrete. I
was told at the weekend that it's not recommended to float this type of
floor - could someone tell me if this is true or not? And if not, what
would be recommended.


A professional laid mine secret nailed onto tanalised laths, the laths
screwed down into the concrete after being levelled up with packing
beforehand.

It's fine.

DG

Derek ^ wrote:
"JonG" wrote:

I have a solid oak floor (18mm thick, tongue & groove type) to fit, and
had intended to float it with an underlay between wood and concrete. I
was told at the weekend that it's not recommended to float this type of
floor - could someone tell me if this is true or not? And if not, what
would be recommended.

A professional laid mine secret nailed onto tanalised laths, the laths
screwed down into the concrete after being levelled up with packing
beforehand.

I laid my solid wood floor fully floating. But you need to have an
incredibly level floor and consider a DPM layer as well as underlay.
Any dips in the subfloor, and the floor 'breathes' slightly when you
walk on it.

Don't ask me how I know ;-)

P.

wrote:
Derek ^ wrote:
"JonG" wrote:

I have a solid oak floor (18mm thick, tongue & groove type) to fit, and
had intended to float it with an underlay between wood and concrete. I
was told at the weekend that it's not recommended to float this type of
floor - could someone tell me if this is true or not? And if not, what
would be recommended.

A professional laid mine secret nailed onto tanalised laths, the laths
screwed down into the concrete after being levelled up with packing
beforehand.

I laid my solid wood floor fully floating. But you need to have an
incredibly level floor and consider a DPM layer as well as underlay.
Any dips in the subfloor, and the floor 'breathes' slightly when you
walk on it.

Don't ask me how I know ;-)

P.

Just seen this layed on the ground floor of a new build with concrete
floors. Builder used a glue recommended by the floor suppliers. Floor
was not entierley level so self levelling compound was used. A thin
layer of the glue spread on the floor with a notched trowel, then white
wood glue for the tongue and groove. Floor looks great and doesn't move
many months after it has been down.
Flooring was bought from ebay, birch, about £20/m2, and looks great.
Went down very quickly also.

nafuk wrote:
wrote:
Derek ^ wrote:
"JonG" wrote:

I have a solid oak floor (18mm thick, tongue & groove type) to fit, and
had intended to float it with an underlay between wood and concrete.I
was told at the weekend that it's not recommended to float this typeof
floor - could someone tell me if this is true or not? And if not, what
would be recommended.

A professional laid mine secret nailed onto tanalised laths, the laths
screwed down into the concrete after being levelled up with packing
beforehand.

I laid my solid wood floor fully floating. But you need to have an
incredibly level floor and consider a DPM layer as well as underlay.
Any dips in the subfloor, and the floor 'breathes' slightly when you
walk on it.

Just seen this layed on the ground floor of a new build with concrete
floors. Builder used a glue recommended by the floor suppliers. Floor
was not entierley level so self levelling compound was used. A thin
layer of the glue spread on the floor with a notched trowel, then white
wood glue for the tongue and groove. Floor looks great and doesn't move
many months after it has been down.
Flooring was bought from ebay, birch, about £20/m2, and looks great.
Went down very quickly also.

Not sure i'd like to glue the floor down.

What about expansion ?

In future when I lay one i'll be looking for floor imperfections,
rather than assuming the board was warped. (it's only one small place
where this has happened) & I'd be looking to level or otherwise ensure
any voids were filled.

Once they're glued they don't settle, despite the weight.

Cheers

Paul.