![]() |
| If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|||||||
| UK diy (uk.d-i-y) For the discussion of all topics related to diy (do-it-yourself) in the UK. All levels of experience and proficency are welcome to join in to ask questions or offer solutions. |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#21
|
|||
|
|||
|
Stuart Noble wrote:
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote: For thr intricate Nitromors and a dremel drill or similiar, using the brass conical bit, this is so fine and soft it won't gouge the wood, put drill on slowest speed. Providing you have a dremel that is? Oh and if you haven't a dremel a "brass suede shoe brush" is your best bet. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite The *only* way to make a good job of panelling is is to have it dipped, preferably by the non-caustic method. Dip 'n Strip used to have franchises dotted about. Thats the way to go but if its the 1930's? paneling in this situ then it would be a bugger to to take orf with a lot of making good putting back on. -- Sir Benjamin Middlethwaite |
| Ads | |
|
#22
|
|||
|
|||
|
|
|
#23
|
|||
|
|||
|
In article ,
The3rd Earl Of Derby wrote: The *only* way to make a good job of panelling is is to have it dipped, preferably by the non-caustic method. Dip 'n Strip used to have franchises dotted about. Thats the way to go but if its the 1930's? paneling in this situ then it would be a bugger to to take orf with a lot of making good putting back on. It certainly would. -- *When I'm not in my right mind, my left mind gets pretty crowded * Dave Plowman London SW To e-mail, change noise into sound. |
|
#24
|
|||
|
|||
|
On 22 Dec 2005 18:42:18 -0800, "Buzby" wrote:
Andy reminded me: How come when I repeatedly mention how I'd love a big Skarsten scraper for Christmas no-one in my family ever takes the hint? Skarsten don't do big scrapers. Sandvik do _big_ scrapers. Friend of mine has a panelled room (sloped ceilings too) in a building which was allegedly built as a dairy. But it's either a Welsh priest-hole or else it was built by someone who normally did Chapels (and very finely he built it too). Now scraping the flat surfaces of that really was hard going - tried everything on it he did. In the end he got very attached to one particular top-end model of Sandvik scraper. |
|
#25
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 00:48:01 +0000 (GMT), Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
A new neighbour wishes to restore the oak panelling in his hall - the house was once owned by a coffin maker. ;-) When I first saw it many years ago it was stained very dark - near black. The next owner painted it white. The present one wants it back to natural, but even after sanding there are traces of the original stain - and the intricate mouldings make sanding difficult without damage. Any tips? Sandblasting is the only hope. In situ. Not that expenisve - a few hundred only - use calcium carbonate for wood. Helluva mess afterwards. Strip area of EVERYTHING and expect to hoover ten times or so. See yellow pages If dismantled, caustic may work. After blasting, it will be grain etched. Sanding will help for a newish look, or leave it etched for Ye Olde Worlde look. |
|
#26
|
|||
|
|||
|
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 06:43:33 GMT, Stephen Dawson wrote:
"Andy Dingley" wrote in message ... On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 00:48:01 +0000 (GMT), "Dave Plowman (News)" wrote: The present one wants it back to natural, He'll be lucky. but even after sanding there are traces of the original stain - and the intricate mouldings make sanding difficult without damage. Any tips? Same as any complicated stripping job - you probably have to use a number of methods in sequence. Try one of the "blanket" strippers if it's mouldings - something like the usual Nitromors recipe of methanol and dichloromethane, thickened with cellulose and laid on under a layer of thick polyethylene. Some of this depends on the stain - pigment stains will lift off the surface but not out of the pores, dye stains will be near impossible to shift from oak. Sandvik also do some nice long-handled scrapers with carbide blades and a ball handle to apply pressure with, As a final measure, try oxalic acid bleach to lighten aged oak. It will be messy but you could also get it sand blasted. One of my customers is having this done to oak beams. I had it done on some new ones after stupid builder painted thick varnish on them.. Came out well, but heavily grained. No trace of varnish left anywhere. |
|
#27
|
|||
|
|||
|
|
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| restoring stained oak | [email protected] | UK diy | 7 | September 3rd 05 04:25 PM |
| Restoring bleached furniture | [email protected] | UK diy | 4 | June 28th 05 07:46 PM |
| restoring teak veneer table | Franz Fripplfrappl | Woodworking | 2 | May 15th 05 05:07 PM |
| Restoring #8, part 1 (w/pics) | David F. Eisan | Woodworking | 5 | March 23rd 05 07:56 PM |
| Restoring old Oak | OzSawdust | Woodworking | 1 | September 19th 03 10:25 AM |